Nueva Gorgona
Nueva Gorgona is a small rural "black sand" beach town in Central Panama, about a one-hour drive from Panama City via the Pan American Highway. It is adjacent to Coronado, a larger expat area.
Understand
This town began as a small but busy fishing village, and also had an American military base here. Tourism has been expanding the town, particularly in the form of many tall tower style condos and nice homes along the long beach which are used by ex-pats and wealthy locals.
The weather is typical for the area with high humidity and daily temperatures up to 30 °C (86 °F). There is a stark contrast between the gated modern beach front, air conditioned, condos where the tourists and expats tend to stay and the locals who live in simple single story, tin roof homes, often in meager conditions. Electricity interruptions are common, so having extra batteries or a generator is handy. The Spanish speaking locals are generally friendly and it feels safe to walk around. Pet dogs seem to run quite freely, but are generally not a threat.
History
“Nueva Gorgona” (new Gorgona) is actually a re-location of 1000 people from “old” Gorgona which had to be moved from over 100 miles away, in order to make way for the Panama Canal back in the early 1900s. They arrived by ocean in a barge, since there were no roads in 1913. The plan involved creating jobs for the low income Panamanians, with an American post and amenities here, with possible plans for a Naval installation. The building that a local restaurant is in was that old army post (American Legion), that ultimately was left in ruins when the Americans left.
Get in
By road
From Panama City, there is a bus stop on the main Pan American highway, but you then need to take a taxi into the town. There is a police check point at the entry near the highway, which helps to keep the residents safe. The Pan-American Highway goes from the bottom of South America, all the way up North to Alaska and is a very busy highway. Coronado is located on this 4 lane highway, which has the center median blocked so you can't cross it. They don't seem to use “clover-leaf” ramps to get off the highway. Instead a few places have an extra “return lane” in the center between the two directions, where you can do a legal U-turn. Since we were headed North, this was challenging because every time we wanted to turn left to get to the beach communities, we had to go PAST our turn, do the U-Turn 1-2 km past it, then drive south back to the town exit road. Then, to get back to the North lane, we had to join the south bound traffic for 1 km, then do the U-Turn to head North.
By plane
Aside from the main airport in Panama City, there is also a small international airport at Río Hato, which operates mainly in the snowbird season to Canada, which is about half hour drive.
Get around
Although the main road in from the Pan American Highway is paved, the majority of streets in the town are not paved. Taxis are readily available and cost about $10 to get into the main shopping town of Coronado. Many people walk from the resort condos along the beach if you are aware of the tides which can block your passage at high tide in some places.
It is enjoyable to explore Gorgona on foot, via the front beach or the back streets.
See and do
Beach and fishing activities.
The white sandy beach is blended with unique black volcanic sand near the edge from the old volcanic rocks. The big waves of warm water can be fun for swimmers and surfers, both locals and tourists, but you need to understand the under tow. You may see some locals riding their horses on the beach. Occasionally four wheeled vehicles venture onto the beach. Occasionally locals may be seen pulling an inflatable donut behind their fishing boat.
Buy
Although there are some "corner store" type places, most grocery and other shopping will be done in nearby town of Coronado.
Eat
Main town has a few small eating places including pizza and Italian fare, and fish of course. The beach has a few basic restaurants scattered along the way. Most of the gated condos have a basic restaurant on premises.
- 🌍 La Ruina (Hawaii), Calle 2 Sur. Nice Pub style eatery with local Panamanian food and expat food.
In 2023 it was taken over as "Hawaii" which used to be on the beach front, which is known for weekly music and other expat centric activities.
The building was built up out of the ruins of the abandoned American military base. - 🌍 Pizzeria Restaurante Torito’s (Torito's), Calle 2a. Classic Panamanian Pizza place with oven fired pizza.
- 🌍 Bahia Beach Bar (On the beach, outside of the Gated community). Lovely beach bar and eatery on a patio located on the sandy beach, which is outside of the gated Bahia resort, and therefore accessible to the general public. Good food friendly staff.
Drink
Corner stores sell beer.
Sleep
AirBnB is popular, and long term condo rentals, but some small hotels also exist.
- 🌍 Royal Palm Condos, Beachfront. 24 story beachfront condo, with four large pools and small restaurant. Gated community, with daily, weekly, monthly rentals. Popular with tourists and ex-pats.
- 🌍 Bahía Alkeyler Holiday Apartments (Bahia), calle 11a sud (Gated, near the beach). Three tall tower apartment beachfront condos.
- 🌍 Ocean Waves. Beautiful modern beachfront condominiums with large pool and patio area. (Gated).
Go next
Day trips with a rental car or taxi driver to these areas will round out your experience.
- Coronado – Expat central, Golf centric gated communities with a Marina
- San Carlos – Small surfing town
- El Valle de Antón – Mountain / Volcano town
- Altos del María – Mountain, gated community
- Punta Chame – Wind surfing small town
- La Boca de Chame – Beachfront lifestyle gated community