Osaka/Tennoji

Tennōji (大阪 天王寺) is a city district of Osaka.

Understand

On the southeast side of Osaka, Tennōji is named after the nearby ancient temple of Shitennōji, which dates back to 593. Today it's better known as a major train hub with plenty of shopping and eating options. The south side of the district is a working class neighborhood, and Shinsekai (新世界, "New World"), built in 1912 in conscious imitation of New York and Paris, has acquired a bit of a rough reputation.

Get in

By plane

The fastest trains between Kansai International Airport and Tennoji station are "Ltd.Express Haruka" which operates by JR West. The journey takes approximately 32 minutes at a cost of ¥1760: ¥1030 regular fare + ¥730 limited express fare.

By train

Tennoji is a major train hub and well connected not just to Osaka, but other major cities in the region. The JR Kyoto Line links to Shin-Osaka (for Shinkansen services) and Kyoto, the JR Yamatoji Line to Nara, while the subway Midosuji Line connects to Namba and Umeda and the JR Loop Line to the rest of the city.

See
  • 🌍 Tsūtenkaku (通天閣). While the original tower was built early 20th century, the current "newer" version is designed by the same Prof. Naitō, who also designed Tokyo Tower. This landmark built in the middle of the Shinsekai (新世界) area is a symbol of reconstruction of the City of Osaka post World War II. There's a "Sky Billiken" on the platform, definitely makes your wishes come true, once you rub his feet! And if you are lucky, your guide will have another job as a comedian! Trip to the top ¥600, outside platform with guide and safety belt extra ¥1400. 
  • 🌍 Shitennōji Temple (四天王寺), 1-1-18 Shitennōji Tennōji-ku (5 min walk from Shitennōji-mae-Yuhiga-oka subway stop, or 15 min by walk north from Tennōji Station). The temple was built by Emperor Suiko in 593 AD. Although the current buildings are mostly post World WarII reconstructions, the temple is a rare sample which conveys the continental style (notably the positioning of the individual buildings inside the complex) of 6th-7th century to present. 
  • 🌍 Abeno Harukas Tower (At Tennoji/Tennojiekimae/Osaka-Abenobashi Station). Being Osaka's tallest building, this tower features malls, restaurants, shops and offices. Most interesting for tourists is probably the Abeno Harukas Art Museum (changing exhibitions, around ¥1300) and the observation deck Harukas 300 on 60th floor in 300 m height (¥1350). If you want to get a good view of the city for free, take elevators and escalators to 17F, then change into one of the business elevators to 30F. There are large glass windows on all sides of the building offering views onto all of Osaka for free! (updated Jan 2018)
  • 🌍 Tennoji Zoo (天王寺動物園), 1-108 Chausuyamacho (Get off at Tennoji Station), ☏ +81 6-6771-8401. Tu-Su 09:00-17:00. The zoo has animals from African Savanna, Asian tropical rainforest, aviary, polar bears, penguins and sea lions. Adults ¥500, child ¥200. (updated Sep 2023)
  • 🌍 Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts (大阪市立美術館), 1-82 Chausuyamacho, ☏ +81 6-6771-4874. Tu-Su 09:30-17:00 (temporarily closed for renovation until spring 2025). The museum focuses on Japanese and east Asian art. Adults ¥300, high school and university students ¥200, elementary school students and under free. (updated Sep 2023)

Do
  • 🌍 Osaka Municipal Tennoji Sports Center (大阪市立天王寺スポーツセンター), 5-109 Sanadayama Tennoji-ku (10 minutes walk from JR Tamatsukuri station). Tu-Su 09:00-21:00. Heated swimming pool & exercise room. Admission: ¥700 pool, ¥600 training, ¥1000 pool & training. 

Eat
  • 🌍 Jan-Jan Yokocho Street. Jan-Jan Yokocho is a famous shopping street along a narrow lane. There are still many establishments running in the same shops they built immediately after World War II. The entire area is squashed with small, cheap eating houses. 
  • 🌍 Kushikatsu Daruma (串かつだるま), 2-3-9 Ebisuhigashi, Naniwa. Daily 11am-10:30pm. The original Shinsekai shop of Osaka's most famous kushikatsu institution, with its trademark grumpy uncle statue admonishing diners not to double-dip their skewers into the shared sauce pots. Order a 13-piece Shinsekai set for an easy sampler of this Osakan classic and wash it down with draft beer or a whiskey highball. 

Drink

Sleep

Near Dobutsuenmae station
  • 🌍 Hotel Pivot (ホテルピボット), 1-1-12 Taishi Nishinari-ku (1 minute walk from Subuway Dobutsuenmae station, 3 minutes walk from JR Shin-Imamiya station), ☏ +81 6-6647-7561. Western and Japanese style rooms available. Rooms are simple, but clean. Traditional Japanese bath with communal showers and hot pool open to men and women during separate opening times in the morning and evening. Three additional private showers are available 24 hr. Showers and bath are on the ground floor. Wireless internet in rooms plus three internet connected computers in the lobby. Free tea and coffee in the mornings. No communal kitchen, but microwave and boiling water available in lobby. No curfew. Singles ¥2600–3200, twins ¥5200–7000. 
  • 🌍 Hotel Chuo OASIS (ホテル中央オアシス), 1-9-15 Taishi Nishinari-ku (1 minute walk from Subway Dobutsuenmae station, 3 minutes walk from JR Shin-Imamiya station), ☏ +81 6-6647-6130. Single ¥3700, twin ¥6600. (updated Sep 2023)
  • 🌍 Hotel Chuo Selene (ホテル中央セレーネ), 1-1-11 Taishi Nishinari-ku (1 minute walk from Subway Dobutsuenmae station, 3 minutes walk from JR Shin-Imamiya station), ☏ +81 6-6647-2758. Dormitory ¥2000-2300, single ¥3300-3800, twin ¥6000-7000. 
  • 🌍 Hotel Raizan North (ホテル来山北館), 1-3-3 Taishi Nishinari-ku (1 minute walk from Subway Dobutsuenmae station, 3 minutes walk from JR Shin-Imamiya station), ☏ +81- 6-6647-2193. Single ¥2100. 
  • Hotel Raizan South (ホテル来山南館), 1-3-3 Taishi Nishinari-ku (1 minute walk from Subway Dobutsuenmae station, 3 minutes walk from JR Shin-Imamiya station), ☏ +81 6-6647-2195. Single ¥2100, twin ¥4200. 
  • 🌍 Hotel Mikado (ホテルミカド), 1-2-11 Taishi Nishinari-ku (1 minute walk from Subway Dobutsuenmae station, 3 minutes walk from JR Shin-Imamiya station), ☏ +81 6-6647-1355. Free use internet and kitchen. AC single ¥2400, twin ¥4400. (updated Feb 2018)
  • 🌍 Hotel Toyo (ホテル東洋), 1-3-5 Taishi Nishinari-ku. Some Japanese people seem to use this place as a de facto apartment, which is a testament to the low price and convenience of the hotel. Each room contains a futon, a fan/heater or AC, and TV. There is a shower room on the first floor, or you can use the public bath of the neighboring Hotel Taiyo for free. Internet is available in the small lounge for free, and free WiFi is available on every floor. Single without AC ¥1500, with AC ¥1700; ¥1000 discount for reservation 10 days in advance or more. 
  • 🌍 Hotel Taiyo (ビジネスホテル大洋), 23-2-1 Taishi Nishinari-ku (in front of Dobustuen-mae JR subway entrance), ☏ +81 6 6631-0802, . Free internet available in the lobby and nice rooms with a clean futon, TV, & fridge. Friendly staff at reception with minimal English and beer vending machine. Communal toilets and washroom with bath, sometimes can see Yakuza members in the washroom with their irizumi (tattoos)! Singles ¥2100, twins ¥3100. 

Near Tennoji station

Mid-range

Splurge
  • 🌍 OMO7 Osaka, 3-16-30 Ebisu-nishi, Naniwa-ku (next to Shin-Imamiya stn). Located right next to Shinsekai, this large, arty hotel by the Hoshino Resort group is the first upscale hotel in the area and has been variously hailed and condemned as an example of gentrification. The starkly modernist bathhouse on the 2nd floor is also open to the public (¥1000). From ¥20000. (updated Sep 2022)

Stay safe

Ironically, the promised "New World" of Shinsekai has turned into one of the poorest neighborhoods in all Japan, with a large homeless population. Visitors are highly unlikely to be targeted by criminals, but it's still not the most savoury place in Osaka to hang around, especially after dark.

Go next
Routes through Tennoji
JR Nanba ←  W  E  → Yao → Horyuji → Nara
Osaka Nanba ←  W  E  → Tsuruhashi → Ikoma → Kintetsu Nara
END ←  N  S  → Sumiyoshi → Goryō mae
Umeda ← Nanba ←  N  S  → Abiko → Nakamozu
Higashi Umeda ← Tanimachi 4-chome ←  N  E  → Hirano → Yao Minami
Nodahanshin ← Nanba ←  W  E  → Minami Tatsumi
into ←  W  E  → Hirano → Matsubara
Shinbashi ←  W  E  → Higashi Osaka → Ikoma → Nara


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