Perugia

Perugia is a large hill town. Most major attractions are at the top of the hill in the Centro Storico (historic centre). It is almost impossible to access the Centro Storico by car unless you have a confirmed hotel booking. Even outside the very centre you will drive very slowly over the many cobblestoned one-way streets and may very well end up driving around in circles several times as traffic signs are very confusing. Do as little driving as possible, and get around on foot. The main car park for tourists is at Piazza Partigiani. From there you can take a series of escalators (hopefully most of them will be working!) up into the old town. There are lots of interesting things to see on the way up as the route was dug through the Rocca Paolina, a medieval citadel. More details about car parks (in English) can be found on this website.

Buses also go to the top, ticket costs €1.50, when bought in a ticket office, and €2 from a driver. The railway station is, inevitably, some distance from the hilly center, but buses are easily available.

Perugia has MiniMetrò - a small, driverless train that every two minutes or so takes you from a car park (Pian di Massiano) near the football stadium, or from the main train and bus stations to the center of town; a single ticket is €1.50 (May 2019). These trains stop running at around 21:00.

Within the central area getting around on foot is best, although some of the hills can be a bit steep and you will need to be fit.

• 🌍 Rocca Paolina. It was a Renaissance fortress, built in 1540-1543 for pope Paul III to designs by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger. The escalators from the lower town lead up through the remains of this fortress. It was built on top of medieval streets, which were used as foundations, and before coming out into daylight at Piazza Italia you go through some of these medieval streets covered with brick ceilings when the fortress was built. Little now remains of the fortress itself. Free admission. (updated May 2019)

• 🌍 Porta Marzia (Marzia Gate). This is an Etruscan city gate built in the 3rd century BC and much later incorporated into the city walls. It is close to the remains of the Paolina Fortress. (updated Jan 2016)
• 🌍 Fontana Maggiore. This large medieval fountain is found between the cathedral and the Palazzo dei Priori. It was made between 1277 and 1278 by Nicola and Giovanni Pisano as part of Perugia's celebrations of its independence. On the twenty-five sides of the basin are sculptures representing prophets and saints, the work of the seasons, signs of the zodiac, Bible scenes and events from Roman history. (updated Jan 2016)
• 🌍 Perugia Cathedral (Cattedrale di San Lorenzo). This has an unusual layout for Italian churches in that the side rather than the front entrance faces the main square. There have been many churches on the site: this one was last worked on around 1490. But finished it was not, as can be clearly seen from the unfinished façade facing the square. This side includes the Loggia di Braccio, an early Renaissance structure. Under it a section of Roman wall and the basement of the old bell tower can be seen. Also found here is the 1264 Pietra della Giustizia ("Justice Stone") with which Perugia announced that it had repaid its public debt, a not inconsiderable feat. Also noteworthy is the external pulpit from which Saint Bernardine of Siena, a virulently anti-homosexual priest, would preach. (updated Jan 2016)

• Capitular Museum (Museo del Capitolo della Cattedrale di San Lorenzo), in the cloister of St. Lorenzo Cathedral. Religious paintings. (updated May 2019)
• Archeologic Area of the Cathedral of San Lorenzo. Tu-Su 11:00 and 15:30. €8. (updated May 2019)

• 🌍 Palazzo dei Priori (Town Hall) (Opposite the side of the cathedral, with its main entrance on Corso Vannucci). This is a large building in Italian Gothic style built in the early 1300s. On the side facing the piazza are a griffin, the emblem of Perugia, a 14th-century bronze lion, and some chains, from where the keys of Siena were displayed after victory over the Sienese in 1358. Inside is the impressive meeting room, the Sala dei Notari. On the second floor is the Municipal Library. The building also houses the National Gallery of Umbria. (updated Apr 2019)

• Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria (National Gallery of Umbria) (inside the Palazzo dei Priori). Tu-Sa 08:30-19:30, closed Mondays, 1st January, 1st May, 25 December. The collection consists of paintings from the 13th to the 19th century, including artists such as Perugino, Nicola e Giovanni Pisano, Beato Angelico, Benozzo Gozzoli, and Pinturicchio. €8. (updated Apr 2019)
• Nobile Collegio del Cambio, Corso Vannucci, 25 (inside the Palazzo dei Priori). M-Sa 09:00-12:30; 14:30-17:30. Displays various works of art. €4.50. (updated May 2019)
• Nobile Collegio della Mercanzia (inside the Palazzo dei Priori). (updated May 2019)

• 🌍 Etruscan Well (Pozzo Etrusco), Piazza Danti 18 (To the right, just past the front entrance of the cathedral). 11:00-13:30, 14:30-17:00, longer in the summer months. Damp and dark but an excellent way of appreciating the skills of 3rd-century BC Etruscan architects. €3. (updated May 2019)

• 🌍 San Domenico. is on Corso Cavour, down the hill to the southeast of Corso Vannucci. It is a Gothic church whose three aisles were a model for the design of the later cathedral of San Lorenzo. San Domenico has faced many problems in the past. Soon after its completion, the upper section was found to be unstable and had to be demolished. In 1614 and 1615 other parts collapsed. The rebuilt church was consecrated in 1632. (updated Jan 2016)
• 🌍 San Pietro. About 1 km further along Corso Cavour after San Domenico, this church and abbey is well filled with fine works of art, including by Perugino. Interesting hexagonal bell tower. See too the medieval garden through the hall off the courtyard. €5, €3 reduced. (updated May 2019)

• Just walking around. There is probably no city in the world that better rewards the casual explorer in the sheer variety of its streetscapes. You can stroll along a Roman aqueduct that connects two of the city's hills, passing doors on the third stories of homes to peer over the edge at the doors at street level below. You can walk along the Via delle Volta della Pace, which follows the Etruscan city wall, but is now wholly arched over by a Gothic portico. You can stumble along cobbled streets that have the unique combination of slopes interrupted by small steps that only Italians seem to master. The wide, traffic-free Corso Vannucci, named after the painter known as Il Perugino, is what really makes Perugia. You can loll with the students from the International University on the steps of the Cathedral at one end or amble down the Corso from those steps to sit on a bench at the other end and look over Umbria's hills as the sun sets.
• Let's cook in Umbria, Strada Comunale San Marino 25 (Perugia), ☏ +39 075 589 9951, info@cookinumbria.it. Offers cooking classes, winery tours, gourmet tours, excursions to artisan chocolate and olive oil producers, truffle hunting and very popular cooking vacation programs that include accommodation and excursions to remote villages throughout Umbria and Tuscany. 
• Talk Donca with local people. Dialect in Perugia can be very funny to hear and to try to replicate. To have a better explanation use this site: Wikidonca.
• 🌍 Museo-Laboratorio di tessitura a mano Giuditta Brozzetti, Via Tiberio Berardi, 5. Traditional hand-weaving workshop with 19th-century looms in a 13th-century Franciscan monastery. (updated May 2019)

For most tourists, the center, or downtown, of Perugia will be the most rewarding place to eat either lunch or dinner. The main street 'walk' begins at the Piazza Duomo at the Fontana Maggiore and ends with a dramatic view that showcases the city's churches and the Umbrian countryside. There are many dining options along this street. The last hotel on the right hand side (🌍 Hotel Brufani) before reaching the viewpoint offers five-star accommodation and regional dishes, specializing in legumes and fantastic olive oils. At the other end of Corso Vannucci, just to the right of the cathedral, is a charming pizzeria, La Mediterranea.

• 🌍 Merlin Pub, Via del Forno. Good place to drink, good mix of locals and students alike. Good offers on beers, remember if you get a leaflet, make sure the barman sees it, otherwise you will get charged full whack. Look out for Pisco, the owner, who will love to give you a free welcome shot. (updated Jan 2016)
• 🌍 Punta di Vista, Viale Indipendenza (Just off the Piazza Italia). open air bar which is open in the summer. Nice cocktails and (like the name says) a beautiful view. (updated Jan 2016)

• Castello dell Oscano - Strada della Forcella, 37. The Castello dell'Oscano is situated in the outskirts of Perugia, Locality Cenerente. Other major locations in the vicinity are: Perugia airport (20 km), Assisi (25 km), Gubbio (40 km).
• Borgo Monticelli 14 km from the centre of Perugia, it is a tiny hamlet dated back to 1100 with 18 renovated apartments. Riding centre and golf courses nearby. Parking by the house. For shared use: garden and swimming pool. There are also agritourism hotels just out of town, which are easily accessed by car. There may also be free buses to certain hotels, depending on where you wish to stay.
• 🌍 Best Western Hotel Quattrotorri, Via Corcianese, 260, ☏ +39 075 5171722, info@hotelquattrotorriperugia.com. 4 stars Hotel with modern rooms, restaurant and convention centre. 

• Alla Posta dei Donini. Via Deruta 43 - 06132. An historical residence in San Martino in Campo, near Perugia in the direction of Torgiano. €150-250 for double. 
• Vega Hotel, Strada di Montalcino, 2/a 06134 Ponte Valleceppi, info@vegahotel.net. The hotel is built on two floors and offers 37 comfortable rooms with varying characteristics: apart from the single, twin and double rooms, it also offer very large, family-oriented triple and four-bedded rooms. 
• Hotel Tirrenus Perugia, ☏ +39 07538200, info@hoteltirrenus.it. 3 star hotel on the edge of town 3 km from the historical centre. Parking, free internet, quick food, international channels TV, English and French speaking staff. Completely renovated in a quiet location. Convenient if you have a vehicle and want to use Perugia as a base for trips around Umbria. 
• Agriturismo la volpe e l'uva, strada comunale san marino 25, ☏ +39 0755899951, info@agriturismovolpeuva.it. Four kilometres from Perugia.The farmhouse is surrounded by 10 hectares of olive groves, vineyards and fruit trees. Six independent apartments have been restored around the ancient stone house, which goes back to 17th century. 
• Dimora la Sapienza, Via della Sapienza 11, info@dimoralasapienza.it (Perugia city centre), ☏ +39 3391211070. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 10:00. Dimora la Sapienza is a two rental houses properties complex, in the centre of medieval town. Carefully restored, with fantastic facilities. 
• 🌍 Hotel Signa, Via del Grillo 9 (off Corso Cavour), ☏ +39 075 5724180, hotelsigna@tin.it. Quiet and inexpensive 23-room hotel, a 15-minute walk from Corso Vannucci. Avoid staying in the "Annex", particularly in the summer when you will want the window open, as it is on the noisy Corso Cavour. €60-80 for a double. 
• Hotel Brufani Palace, Piazza Italia 12 (Right in the center of town), ☏ +39 0755 732541. Upmarket hotel where all the top jazz musicians stay during the festival. €100-500 for room or suite. 
• 🌍 Hotel La Rosetta, Piazza Italia 19 (right downtown), ☏ +39 075 5720841. If you stay during the jazz festival you will run into all the artists. But price-quality ratio a bit disappointing. €120-240. 
• Villa Nuba Apartments, Via Strada Eugubina, 70, ☏ +39 075 5725765, +39 338 6872362 (mobile), info@perugiarentals.com. Vacation rentals directly by the owners. Salt water swimming pool, barbecue area, garden, parking and Jacuzzi. 15 minutes walking distance to the centre of Perugia. (updated Oct 2015)

Perugia provides a good base for exploring central and northern Umbria, including Assisi. You can explore Umbria's medieval towns by day and enjoy Perugia's nightlife by night.