Pistoia
Pistoia is in the Tuscany region of Italy, halfway between Florence and Lucca, about 40 km away from each, with a population of about 100k that gives it a city feel, but it is tightly constructed and easy to get around and through by foot, however the city is rarely visited by tourists. The strategic location of the city makes it easy to visit all of Tuscany.
Get in
See
Although it's not a busy tourist destination, there are many things to see in Pistoia. The city center is rich of ancient streets, squares and churches dating back to the medieval period.
View the following points of interest, all of which can be seen on foot (the historic center is closed to motorized traffic):
- Cathedral of San Zeno (and bell tower)
- Baptistery
- Ospedale del Ceppo and Pistoia Sotterranea
- Piazza della Sala
- Marino Marini Museum
Start at the main square, housing Pistoia’s Duomo. Though perhaps not the first cathedral for Pistoia, it most definitely presents a distinct and elegance appearance. It is found within the first set of city walls dates back to the Lombard domination in the 7th century. Named after San Zeno, it dates back to the 10th century though much of what you admire today has been restored several times over the last hundreds and hundreds of years.. San Zeno was an important bishop from 300 B.C. and his statue towers on the cathedral’s roof next to the statue of the city’s patron, San Jacopo (St. James), who are historically linked to each other since it was the bishop Zeno who acquired the important relic of San Jacopo from the city of Santiago de Compostela in Spain.
To the right of the Duomo, note the very particular brick building, the bishop’s palace, unknown as the Palazzo dei Vescovi, characterized by a loggia with lancet arches and mullioned windows. On the other side of the cathedral you will note Palazzo del Podestà or Pretorio, and opposite it the Palazzo del Comune, both where the ancient headquarters for law enforcement and local government during the years.
There are two impressive towers in the piazza: the bell tower of the Duomo and the Torre di Catalina. The first is located to the left of the church, characterized by the gothic style tower and by the swallow tail feather shape typical of the Ghibelline period. It is 67 meters high and there are two hundred stairs which await you, promising incredible panoramic views that are well worth every ounce of energy. Tickets are available at the Tourist Office. Legends tells us that the Tower of Catalin, which is dwarfed next to the bell tower at only 30 meters, is said to be the final resting place of the famous Roman general Catalin.
The Baptistery of San Giovanni in Corte, an elegant example of 14th century gothic architecture, faces the cathedral. The baptistery’s octagonal shape, constructed in two colors of marble, reflects the Pistoiese Romanic tradition.
The baptistery has gone through several different restoration interventions throughout the centuries. Upon entering, the atmosphere is solemn as well as bare. Your attention is inevitably drawn to the splendid baptismal font, positioned right in the center of the octagon, constructed by Lanfranco di Como.
Today, the baptistery is no longer used for religious services but rather, occasionally hosts cultural events.
The Piazza della Sala, located behind the baptistery. "La Sala", as the local “pistoiesi” call it, is home to an artisan market, various workshops and also, several wine bars, cafés and restaurants.
Also visit the Marino Marini museum in the Palazzo del Tau in Corso Fedi, only a few minutes walk from Piazza della Sala.
The Marino Marini Museum houses numerous contemporary pieces of artwork by the celebrated 1940’s artist, born and raised in Pistoia. Equestrian riders is without a doubt one of the most noted themes of Marini, but so are his “Pomone”, portraits of the nude female body inspired by the Etruscan goddess of fertility. The museum is open from Tuesday to Saturday from 9:00 am to 1:00 pm and from 3:00 pm to 7:00 pm (entrance is free on Saturday), Sunday from 9:00 am to 1:00 pm and closed on Mondays.
Do
- There is a great flea market on Wednesdays and Saturdays in Pistoia. It starts about 7:30 in the morning but is finished by 13:00. Great bargains to be had in clothes and shoes and household items.
- Antique Market in Pistoia - about 50 antique dealers gather along Via Cavour and Via Bozzi in the center of Pistoia on the second weekend of every month (except July and August).
- Montecatini Terme. A spa.
- Monsummano Terme. A spa.
Eat
Gian Burrasca Restaurant, Corso Antonio Gramsci, 159/B
Pizzeria Partenope Viale Adua, Via Morelli Gualtierotti Sigismondo, 15
Try anywhere on the Piazza della Sala
Drink
Try anywhere on the Piazza della Sala
Sleep
- Hotel Villa Cappugi, Via Collegigliato, 45, ☏ +39 0573 450297, fax: +39 0573 451009, info@hotelvillacappugi.com.
- Residence Arte Mura, Viale Adua 159, 51100, ☏ +39 0573 50181, fax: +39 0573 975219, info@artemura.com.
Go next
The Zoo of Pistoia (about 10 km outside of the city) and to the Pinocchio Park in Collodi, with its adjacent Garzoni Garden.
The town can serve as a handy base camp for exploring the surrounding area.