Point Roberts

Point Roberts looks at first glance to be a topographical error; a small peninsula which should otherwise be in Delta, a populous Vancouver suburb, is severed by the 49th parallel to form a geographic dead-end where a US community is only accessible overland from Canada.

As a US near-exclave, Point Roberts is effectively a gated community guarded by the US Department of Homeland Security. Sometimes visitors to Canada making a day trip to Point Roberts, but lacking a multiple entry visa to Canada, get stuck in Point Roberts. U.S. law enforcement has used the Point, perceived as almost part of Canada, to trap US fugitives hiding in Canada. Once lured onto US soil on a false pretense, the Feds swoop in on the hapless crook who now has nowhere to run except into the ocean or back to the border and into the arms of US Border Patrol.

The point's unusual border status attracted more than a few smugglers during the Prohibition era. In the 1950s and 1960s, a handful of well-known musicians performed live here to circumvent British Columbia's then-strict "blue laws", which restricted the sale of alcohol on Sunday. (The law was repealed in time for Expo '86.)

Before the 11 September 2001 attacks in New York City (and the US crackdowns on the border which followed) locals tended to take the ability to cross freely for granted. That has all changed; much property on the point is still owned by Vancouverites as cottage sites ― likely because Canadian land prices in the area have long been among the most prohibitive in the nation ― but border access has grown progressively more awkward.

With fewer than 1,200 people (2020), Point Roberts has close ties with its neighbor to the north, serving as a border-hop destination for Canadians in Greater Vancouver. It has an elementary school but no middle or high school; after third grade, students have to cross an international border four times a day to go to school in the United States. (Canadian students can go to school in Delta.)

The border was closed in March 2020 due to the global COVID-19 pandemic, and after a year and a half, reopened. Despite this, many who left during the pandemic have yet to return, although there are hopeful signs. Record-setting gas prices on the other side of the border have made the local gas stations the first to economically recover. Many cottages are also now finally being seen to by their owners as crossing the border becomes easier. Point Roberts did not become a ghost town this time, but it came uncomfortably close.

• Point Roberts Cab Company, 1800 Benson Road, ☏ +1 360-945-2757. The only local taxi service in Point Roberts.
• Uber is also now an option on the Point, with one driver available on a semi-regular basis. If the app shows no availability, the driver can be contacted at ☏ +1-604-900-0120. The driver is able to cross the border and take passengers to some destinations in metro Vancouver, and to Bellingham (for approximately $100).

The line separating Point Roberts from Canada is the westernmost land border between Canada and the continental US. The westernmost spot is marked by a large monument honoring several UK soldiers from the 1800s. The monument is in a small park with a bench looking out over the Georgia Strait, the Gulf Islands, and Vancouver Island.

• Roosevelt Drive (north, along the Canadian border). Always open. Along this unassuming lane, the "undefended international border" is concretely visible. A narrow trench and periodic metre-high obelisks mark the boundary. To the north, back yards and wood fences of suburban Tsawwassen homes crowd in. To the south, groves of trees reveal the pastoral spirit of Point Roberts. No forbidding wall or cleared no-man's-land mars the scene. Free. (updated Sep 2016)
• 🌍 Monument Park. This small park includes a monument marking the establishment of the border between Canada and the USA. There is also a short but steep walk to the beach. Free. (updated Sep 2016)

• 🌍 Bald Eagle Golf Club at Point Roberts, 1350 Pelican Pl, ☏ +1 360 945-4653, toll-free: +1-866-460-0368. Championship-sized golf & country club attracts golfers from around North America. Eagle's Roost restaurant serves breakfast and lunch. Due to slightly dryer and sunnier conditions compared to the Fraser Valley, weather in Point Roberts is ideal for golfing. (updated Dec 2021)
• There are many mountain bike trails that run through Point Roberts to the southeast corner of the peninsula. Ramps and jumps are set up for beginner to intermediate level mountain bike riders.
• 🌍 Lighthouse Marine Park, ☏ +1 360 945-4911. Park on southwest corner of the peninsula with beach and public restrooms, 21 acres with unobstructed view over the Georgia Strait to the Gulf Islands and Vancouver Island. Thirty camp sites with fire pit, picnic table and parking. Whales can be spotted from here at times. $22/night for camper. (updated Mar 2023)
• 🌍 Maple Beach. The largest public beach in Point Roberts. Free parking at the northern end of the beach. Free. (updated Sep 2016)
• 🌍 Lily Point Marine Park, 2315 APA Road (drive to the end of APA road where you will find the park entrance and parking). Lovely park with a few well-maintained tracks and beach access. This used to be the site of a salmon cannery. Free. (updated Sep 2016)

Before the border was closed due to COVID-19, Point Roberts' main business was selling gas in litres (at lower tax rates), dairy products and US postal services to Canadians. There was also strong demand for food and alcohol for visitors entering Point Roberts to access their cottages. Nonetheless, many basic amenities (such as a department store or a pharmacy) are absent.

As of March 2022, record gas prices north of the border have led to gas stations across the Point fully reopening to accommodate Canadians coming for cheaper gas. The same revitalization has not extended to other businesses in the area, however. The last functional restaurant, the Saltwater Café, is still sporadically closed or operating reduced hours. Only one bank remains open. Many other businesses are still operating at reduced capacity, facing economic hardship or out of operation after being cut off from Vancouver ― the third-largest market in Canada, for nearly two years, and many properties have been put up for sale. While the increased business for the gas stations is a positive sign for the Point's economic recovery, it still has a long way to go before it returns to its pre-pandemic state.

• 🌍 International Marketplace, 480 Tyee Drive, ☏ +1 360 945-0237. Full-service grocer, across the street from the US post office. The only place to buy food on Point Roberts, now that the restaurants are closed. (updated Jun 2021)

• 🌍 Saltwater Café, 1345 Gulf Road, ☏ +1 360 945-SALT (7258). Th-Su 8AM-4PM. (updated Jul 2021)
• 🌍 The Shell Center, 423 Tyee Dr, ☏ +1 360 945-2454. 8AM-7PM daily. Breakfast, pizza, ice cream, baked goods, coffee, wine and beer, gourmet sandwiches. Eat-in and takeout. (Sales of alcohol and prepared food are suspended due to change in ownership requiring new licensing.) (updated Mar 2022)
• 🌍 Kiniski's Reef Tavern, 1334 Gulf Road, ☏ +1 360-945-4042. M Tu Th F 4-8PM, Sa Su Noon-8PM (closed W). Burgers, sandwiches, clam chowder, pub food. (updated Jun 2023)

There was one bar, Kiniski's Reef, owned by retired professional wrestler Nick Kiniski. As of Dec 2022, it appears to be operating limited hours on weekends only.

• 🌍 Kiniski's Reef, 1334 Gulf Rd, ☏ +1 360-945-4042. F 4-8PM, Sa Su noon-8PM. (updated Jan 2023)

• 🌍 Maple Meadows Inn, 101 Goodman Rd, ☏ +1 360 945-5536, fax: +1 360 945-2542. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: 11AM. Wi-fi, fridge, microwave, breakfast room service, deck/patio. $145 May 15-Oct 15; $125 Oct 15-May 15. (updated Oct 2016)

There is no doctor, dentist or pharmacist on Point Roberts.

• 🌍 Point Roberts Hospital District, 2030 Benson Rd, ☏ +1 360-945-2580. A small clinic with a nurse practitioner available three days per week. (updated Mar 2023) It is located next to the Whatcom 5 fire hall.

• Immediately north of the international border is Delta