Prayagraj

Prayagraj (pruh-yahg-rahj) is among the largest cities in Uttar Pradesh. Hindu mythology has it that for the Prakrishta Yajna, Lord Brahma, the creator God of the Hindu Trinity, chose a land on earth, on which the three rivers would flow in to a quiet confluence. Brahma also referred to it as Tirth Raj or the "king of all pilgrimage sites". Recorded evidence also exists in the Hindu scriptures (the Vedas and the grand epics, the Ramayana and the Mahabharata, as also in the Puranas) of this holy place formerly called Prayag. Prayagraj stands at the confluence of two of India's holiest rivers, the Ganges and the Yamuna. Sangam, as the confluence is called, is the venue of many sacred fairs and rituals, and attracts thousands of pilgrims throughout the year. This number swells to millions during the Kumbh Mela. An annual Magh Mela is also held in Prayagraj around the Sangam areas in the month of January (Magh is the name of month in Hindu calendar). A third mythical Saraswati river, believed to flow underground towards the Sangam, gives the confluence its other name, Triveni.

Emperor Akbar renamed this city in 1575 and called it Illahabas, which turned into Allahabad. The monarch realised its strategic importance as a waterway landmark in North India and also built a magnificent fort on the banks of the holy Sangam.

Over the centuries that followed, the then-Allahabad remained on the forefront of national importance, especially during the days of the Indian independence struggle. The chequered history of Prayagraj with its religious, cultural and historical ethos also gave rise to several renowned scholars (M. N. Saha, Harishchandra, Ravindra Khattree, Amar Nath Jha), poets (Suryakant Tripathi Nirala, Mahadevi Verma, Harivansh Rai Bachchan, Sumitra Nandan Panth), writers (Mahadevi Verma, Ramkumar Verma, Jagdish Gupta), thinkers (Purusottam Das Tandon), statesmen and leaders (Motilal Nehru, Jawaharlal Nehru, Murli Manohar Joshi) and the actor Amitabh Bachchan.

The city, an important cantonment during the British Raj, has some beautiful remnants of colonial architecture. In the early 20th century, University of Allahabad was the foremost centre of learning in the country. Prayagraj today is an important city where history, culture and religion create a confluence, much like the sacred rivers that caress it.

Prayagraj used to have a thriving industrial suburb (Naini) till the 1980s, but then those public sector units started closing down one by one, forcing entire generations of young educated Prayagrajis to migrate out of the city in search of work. Today, Prayagraj is slowly inching along in its dream to be an IT hub. And the government administrative offices remain alive and kicking.

In Prayagraj, you can enjoy:

• The politeness of "ahp" (आप, literally "us") and "hum" (हम, literally "we"), used as a form of respect instead of the singular.
• The subtle sense of humour of the person on the street.
• The fun of walking and travelling on rickshaws.

The best way to reach Prayagraj, if you are coming from outside India, is to take a direct flight to Delhi and then take one of the numerous connecting trains from Delhi to Prayagraj.

Hire a cyclerickshaw. It is the cheapest, best and most widely available means of transport. You will have to haggle for the prices, though.

Auto rickshaws (3-wheelers) are also cheap modes of travel inside the city.

City buses are available on certain routes but their arrivals and departures are unpredictable.

• 🌍 Allahabad Fort. The Allahabad Fort, built from the year 1583 onwards by Akbar, stands at the junction of the two great rivers. It was the largest of Akbar's forts, and although its original form has been much impaired by early restoration work, the splendid Zenana Palace survives. It is a fine pavilion, with a central square hall carried on 64 columns bordered by a deep veranda of double columns and there are clusters of four in each corner. 
• 🌍 Allahabad High Court, Nyaya Marg, Canton, Dhoomanganj, ☏ +91 532 242 2335. It is the seat of Justice in Uttar Pradesh, and is the oldest high court in the country with largest strength of judges. (updated Oct 2019)
• 🌍 Company Bagh (Alfred Park or Chandrashekhar Azad Park), Panna Lal Road. It is the place to experience the British era of Indian history. The park came up in 1870 during the visit of Prince Alfred (second son of Queen Victoria) and was named after him. It also came to be known as Company Bag. It is the largest park in Prayagraj and covers an area of 133 acres. Encircled in this park are Allahabad Museum (for details see Museum section), Victoria memorial and the public library. It was in this park where freedom fighter Chandrashekhar Azad shot himself with his last bullet on 27 Feb 1931. A memorial stands in his memory at the foot of the tree, where he shot himself. Located nearby is a full length statue of the freedom fighter. Post independence the park was renamed as Chandrashekhar Azad Park. ₹5rs. (updated Feb 2019)
  • 🌍 Victorial Memorial (Inside Chandrashekhar Azad Park). Victoria Memorial is not a memorial but a canopy, which once housed the imposing marble statue of Queen Victoria. The impressive marble canopy along with the statue was installed in 1905 and was inaugurated by Sir James John Digges La Touche, the governor of United Provinces of Agra and Oudh. In 1960s the statue of Queen Victoria was removed and shifted to the Municipal Museum in Lucknow. The canopy has been vacant ever since. (updated Feb 2019)
  • 🌍 Thornhill Mayne Memorial (Allahabad Public Library), Chandra Sekhar Azad Park, ☏ +91 532 2460197, info@allahabadpublib.org. The marvelous monuments is perched in Company Garden. The monument served as the house of the legislative assembly during the British era, when Allahabad was the capital of United Provinces. It has been converted to the Public Library. The monument is beautifully carved from white sandstone and is drenched in Gothic serenity. 
• 🌍 Khusro bagh. 08:00-20:00. Khusro Bagh is a walled Mughal styled garden and burial chamber located just south of the Allahabad (Prayagraj) Junction station. It is named after Mirza Khusro, the eldest son of Jahangir and elder brother of Shah Jahan. The complex contains three mighty tombs along with a smaller tomb, dating back to the early 17th century. The complex also contains two fountains, water channels and pavilions. It is approached through a massive gateway on the south. During the Revolt of 1857 Khusrau Bagh became the headquarters of the sepoys under Maulvi Liaquat Ali who took charge as the Governor of liberated Prayagraj. The area surrounding is also known as Khusro Bagh, the crowded locality is known for the famous 'Allahabadi Guavas'. Free. 
  • 🌍 Khusro bagh gate (south). The red sandstone gateway of Khusro Bagh is located on the south side of the complex. Above the arched gate is a beautiful calligraphy inscription executed by Jahangir's master calligrapher Mir Abdullah Mushkin Qalam. It mentions that the gate dates back to 1606 - 07. It also mentioned that it was designed by Aqa Reza and was commissioned by Jahangir. The massive arched wooden arched doorway is nailed with several horseshoes of different sizes. The gate is topped with battlement and contains several ornate oriel windows. The gate is heavily encroached and photographing the entire structure is difficult. This gate leads to the Yamuna River. There is a gateway on the northern side which is more frequently used. 
  • 🌍 Khusro bagh gate (north), Station Road. This gate located on Station Road provides easy access and is more frequently used. This is a new gate and has no historic significence. 
  • 🌍 Shah Begum's Tomb (Tomb of Jahangir's mother). Shah Begum' was the wife of Jahangir and the mother of Khurso Mirza. She was born as Man Bai and was the daughter of Raja Bhagwant Das, the ruler of Amer. She overdosed on opium in 1604, and the tomb was built in 1606. Designed by Aqa Reza, the elaborate calligraphy was executed by Mir Abdullah Mushkin Qalam. Shah Begum's Tomb is the principal tomb of the complex and occupies the central position. The three-tiered structure is built entirely with sandstone and stands on a high plinth. It is topped with a chatri and crowned with an elaborate finial. 
  • 🌍 Nithar Begum's Tomb. Nithar Begum was Khurso Mirza's sister and daughter of Shah Begum. The tomb came up in 1624 - 25 and is the last of the three great tombs of Khusro bagh. It is also the most elaborate of the three tombs. A two-story structure built on a raised plinth, the material used is primarily red sandstone. The tomb chamber is approached through an elaborate doorway carved within the plinth that leads to the lower level (meant to house the actual grave). The two tired upper part is crowned with a massive dome topped with a beautiful finial. The dome is flanked with four chatris in the four corners and the four corners of the structure houses slender minerates. The interior houses finest frescoes of the Mughal period complete with elaborately painted stars in concentric circles. A series of inscriptions runns throughout the inner walls of the tomb. 
  • 🌍 Khusrau Mirza's Tomb. Khurso Mirza, the eldest son of Jahangir was executed in 1622 under the order of Prince Khurram (later Saha Jahan). Today his tomb is the easternmost of the tombs of Khurso Bagh. The sandstone single-storey (although it seems to be double-storey from outside) mausoleum stands on a low plinth. It is topped with a masive dome standing on a octagonal drum. The dome is crowned with a decorative finial. The four corners are maarked with chatris. Slender minerates marks the four corners of the upper storey. The interior contains brightly coloured fresco along with intricate calligraphy. Apart frpm the grave of Khurso Mirza the tomb houses tqo other graves in arcaded niches on opposite ends of each other. The south east corner of the plinth houes the grave of Khurso's horse. 
  • 🌍 Bibi Tamolon's Tomb. On the western side of the three tombs lies the lone tomb of Bibi Tamolon. Nothing much is known about the tomb or its occupant. The sandstone built octagonal tomb stands on a high plinth and is topped with a dome. 
• 🌍 Minto Park (Madan Mohan Malaviya Park) (Between Fort and Yamuna Bridge). It was at this very place in 1858 Lord canning read out the declaration of Queen Victoria's Proclamation which resulted in the complete transfer of control over India from The East India Company to the government of Britain. To commemorate the 50th anniversary of the event Lord Minto installed a proclamation pillar in 1908. The marble pillar was topped with busts of Queen Victoria and Edward VII. In 1910 the park was named as Minto Park. Later after independence the two busts were removed and replaced by the Ashokan Lion Capital and the park was renamed as Madan Mohan Malaviya Park. Next to the park is a British era Christian cemetery containing graves of British soldiers killed during the Revolt of 1857. 
• 🌍 University of Allahabad Campus. The 4th oldest university of India, it has various neo-Gothic monuments. The university originally started as the Muir College in 1872. With the foundation of the Allahabad University in 1921 the Muir College merged with the newly formed university. The college was founded by William Muir, Lieutenant Governor of the North-West Provinces of India. The Muir College complete with domes and tower is built in Indo-Saracenic style. It is designed by William Emerson and has an interesting blend of Indian and Persian elements. Zoological museum, known as Agharkar Museum, is housed in the Department of Zoology. The museum houses a collection of skeletons of mammoth and elephants. The archaeology department also has its own museum. 
• 🌍 Mayo Memorial and Town Hall. 10:00am - 5:00pm. Mayo Memorial and Town Hall was constructed in 1879 in memory of Lord Mayo, the Viceroy of India who was assassinated in the Andamans in 1872. The foundation stone of the building was laid by Lord Lytton and was designed by Richard Southwell Bourke. The hall is meant for public meetings and elaborate parties. The structure is dominated by a 180 high tower. The interior of this memorial hall was ornamented with designs by Professor Gamble of the South Kensington Museum. The interiors are accessible to tourists and consist of. huge hall supported by decorative pillars and gothic arches. (updated Oct 2020)
• 🌍 Old Naini Bridge. Old Nani Bridge is one of the oldest bridge of the country it runs in the north-south direction across the Yamuna River connecting Prayagraj to the Naini area. The road and rail bridge came up in 1865 and established the rail link between Kolkata and Delhi. In 1927 a lower deck was added to the bridge providing two-way traffic for both rail and road. Interestingly one of the pillars of the bridge is shaped like a shoe, this was done for the current of the river. The pillar came to be known as "gentleman's shoe.". (updated Oct 2020)
• 🌍 New Yamuna Bridge Naini. The New Yamuna Bridge Naini is located west of the Old Naini Bridge and is parallel to it. The cable styled bridge came up in 2004 had provides 6 lane road traffic. The bridge allows pedestrians and provides great views of the Yamuna River along with Old Naini Bridge. A boat ride below the bridge provides a great view of the bridge. 

• Boating and bathing at Sangam. A dip in the holy Sangam of the Ganga, Yamuna and the mythical Saraswati is a must for the spiritually inclined. It is a sacred holy site for Hindus. According to Vedic literature and myths it is called Triveni Sangam because three rivers meet up here namely the holy Ganga, Yamuna and mythical Saraswati which is believed to be flowing beneath the surface. At the time of churning of sea (samudra manthana) by Gods (Devas) and the Demons (Asuras) few drops of amrita (holy nectar that makes a mortal immortal) fell at four different parts of the subcontinent during a fight between Gods and Demons over it. That places are Haridwar, Nashik, Prayag and Ujjain and are considered holy and Maha Kumbh Mela is organised once in 12 years. Millions of pilgrims, tourists, ascetics, sadhu/sant (holy men) visit Prayag at the time of month long Kumbha for taking holy dip at sangam and perform religious rituals and ceremonies. Also Magh Mela is organised annually on January–February (Magh month of the Hindu calendar) and millions visit to take holy dip at Sangam. 
• Take a dip at Sangam. Spiritual and refreshing. Sitting along the river banks and seeing the flowing water is also worth to be done. However sitting alone in aloof areas is risky for women and foreigners. Nagvasuki Ghat and Saraswati Ghat are suitable places for enjoying the serenity of river. Go at sunrise or after sunset to avoid crowds during Magh Mela. 
• Walk in the Magh/Kumbh Mela area. The days which are best to visit Prayagraj falls in the Hindu month of 'Magha'. A stroll in the make shift streets of Mela area is blissfully energizing. Be sure to keep a close watch on your purse/day-pack, not flash any cash or wear expensive jewellery to avoid being a target for theft. 
• Water sports in Yamuna. Various water sports can be enjoyed in the waters of Yamuna. Skiing, para-sailing, kayaking, canoeing, wind surfing enterprise, yachting boat, optimist sailing, water snookering, shallow water diving. Allahabad Boat Club is the organiser. 
• 🌍 Jawahar Planetarium. 11:00-16:30. A place for those who are interested in astronomy. Shows are at every hour and charges are nominal. Children under age of 7 are not allowed.(Closed on Mondays). ₹20. 

• Astrology. Being a seat of leaning, Prayag is a hub of famous astrologists and Sanskrit Vidyapeeths (Institutes). Get your kundli evaluated and your problem solved by Indian astrology. Approach a 'jyotishi' if you have faith in soft sciences. 
• 🌍 Kriyayoga Ashram and Research Institute, Near Shastri Bridge, Jhunsi, ☏ +91 532 256 9243, KriyayogaAllahabad@hotmail.com. 

• Guavas are best bought in winter. The red-spotted guavas available in plenty (and at unbelievably cheap prices) are a major attraction.
• Mangoes in summer
• Namkeens at LokNath, Chowk
• Rasgulle. A type of gulaabjamun, 'rasgulle' (in vernacular language) are a speciality of Prayagraj cuisine. Some remarkable shops in city are near Madwapur Petrol Pump, in front of Kamla Nehru Hospital and Netram in Katra. Try to get the taste of rasgulla's at Dadoli Canal (Pratapgarh Rd) and at Rewa Road. 
• Water from the Ganga. Small brass pots of water from the Ganga sealed with wax make a good souvenir, and are widely near Sangam. 

Prayagraj can be a delight for those who are made for flavour. If you are in Prayagraj, then do not forget to enjoy the Mughalai cuisine of North India.Out of innumerable spots for having delicacies of the North Indian cuisine, a mere glimpse is here. Loknath area of the city may be your favorite spot if you are foody and comfortable with hustle and bustle of 'ilahabadi raunak'. Try chaat from the street side stalls.

Pubs are very few. Glassy Junction at hotel Milan Palace, Civil Lines, is a good one to hang around on weekends. Another place that comes closest to being a pub is on the top floor of the Kanha Shyam hotel in Civil Lines. Some restaurants, like Hasty Tasty restaurant, Hotel Regency, and the Tourist Bungalow, all situated in Civil Lines, offer chilled beer and liquor. However, most other restaurants do not have liquor on their menu. Drinking in public is frowned upon, drinking in family restaurants is not allowed at all.

Prayagraj is the host of the largest gathering in the world and rich in hotels in almost every part of the city.Details of a few of them are here.

• Power outages are frequent so be prepared and carry a flashlight. Alleys are hard to navigate during the day, and even harder at night, so always be prepared. Sometimes you might run into a cow in an alley.
• Women should dress conservatively and be very careful as sexual assaults, such as random gropings, can be common. Don't travel alone, especially in less populated areas.

• Knowing some basic Hindi and/or Urdu will help, although you can manage with English.
• Be prepared to haggle with cyclerickshaw pullers (the best means of transport), for a short trip the price should be about ₹50, autorickshaws slightly less.

• Agra there is an overnight sleeper from Prayagraj but it leaves at 11:15 at night and takes approx. 7 hours.
• Chandauli - Chandra Prabha Wildlife Sanctuary (Chandraprabha)
• Chitrakoot
• Lucknow
• Mirzapur - Vindham Falls
• Nandan Kanan amusement park - Water park with pools and slides
• Pratapgarh - Belha Devi Temple and multiple temples located in city of Pratapgarh
• Rishabdev Tapasthali - Beautiful Jain Temples in Jusi, about 15 km from Prayagraj on the road toward Varanasi. The place has arrangements for stay and food. (Call +91-532-2567067, +91-9956260218)
• Satna by train - and bus to Khajuraho
• Tones river
• Varanasi
• Jaunpur (100 km): Meideval town with a fort along with several mosques and tombs