Puerto de la Cruz
Puerto de la Cruz (sometimes abbreviated to Puerto Cruz on road signs or Puerto in everyday language) is a city of the island of Tenerife. It is more family-friendly than the other tourist areas of Tenerife. It is also the longest established most complete of all resorts on Tenerife. The old part of the town keeps beautiful spots, one of the few places where the locals still work, eat and drink. Much of the area around the old fishing port is full of narrow cobbled streets packed with colonial architecture.
Understand
Puerto de la Cruz was established as a fishing village and eventually became the port for the nearby inland city of La Orotava. During the 17th century it developed into the most important port of Tenerife's north coast, used for exporting sugar cane and wine from the Orotava Valley. Over time the city developed a separate identity from that of La Orotava, and finally gained full municipal autonomy in 1808.
In the late 19th century, British elites began to visit, staying in many of the older Spanish manors which had been converted into luxurious hotels. In 1955 mass tourism arrived in El Puerto, or Puerto Cruz, as it is sometimes called, and since then has been the largest basis of the city's economy. It has a wide span of magnificent hotels to suit all tastes and budgets. In addition to its old world charms it offers some of the best visitor attractions in the islands.
- 🌍 Oficina de Información Turística Cabildo (Tourist Information Cabildo), C/ Las Lonjas, s/n (C/ Las Lonjas, s/n), ☏ +34 922 386 000, fax: +34 922 384 769, manuelp@tenerife.es. M-F 09:00-20:00, Sa Su 09:00-17:00.
- 🌍 Centro de Iniciativas y Turismo CIT (Initiative and Tourism Center CIT), C/ Puerto Viejo, 13, ☏ +34 922 388 777, info@citpuerto.com.
Get in
By plane
Many people will arrive on a package deal. Some by taxi from the southern airport South–Reina Sofia (TFS IATA), around €100, and some by bus via Santa Cruz bus station (easy to do if you do not have too much luggage). Some airlines now fly in by the nearer northern airport Los Rodeos (TFN IATA), but on the whole only from mainland Spain.
The Titsa express bus 343 is an efficient but unfortunately infrequent way to reach Puerto de la Cruz from either of the two airports. It only runs 4 times a day. From Aeropuerto Sur a one-way ticket costs €14.60 cash or €9.60 with a ten+ prepaid card; from Aeropuerto Norte €12.40 cash or €8.90 with a ten+ prepaid card. Tickets in cash can be purchased directly from the bus driver, exact change not required.
The last 343 bus from Aeropuerto Sur departs M-F 21:30 and Sa-So 19:20.
By bus
- 🌍 Bus Station (Estación de Guaguas de Puerto de la Cruz) (at the intersection of Avenida Melchor Luz and Calle Hermanos Fernández Perdigón). Puerto de la Cruz is served from all direction by the Titsa public bus network. The bus station also has a ticket counter, in case you need assistance. Night lines leave from bays 11 and 12, which are located just across the road outside of the terminal.
If you travel to/from Santa Cruz, the direct Línea 103 goes by motorway and takes about 45 minutes. Línea 102 has a few more stops and takes about 1 hour.
Going south, you can take Línea 325 to Los Gigantes, a direct bus to Costa Adeje (only a few times a day), or interchange at Santa Cruz bus station.
By car
Puerto de la Cruz is well-connected to the east and west through the TF-5 motorway. The Teide mountain area can easily be reached by just following the TF-21 uphill. Don't listen to your GPS when it proposes leaving that road while you are still within the settled areaː It may be a shorter way to climb up one of the narrow Caminos but it isn't necessarily faster, and depending on how good your navigation system is you might easily end up in a dead end. Driving over the mountain to Los Gigantes will take you over an hour the first time, even if you're brave. If you are nervous, just don't do it as the road winds scarily over high mountains. If you're driving to the Costa Adeje area, it's much quicker to go via Santa Cruz on the motorway, which takes about an hour.
Get around
On foot
Once you get away from the main shopping centre it's uphill all the way, and a fairly steep climb in places.
By bus
Inside the city there are no extra buses. Instead, you can use connections to nearby towns or villages to reach certain corners of the city. From the main bus station, see the current connections on the Titsa website.
By car
Navigating the old city centre can be tricky, as there are many narrow one-way roads. A GPS navigation system can help here, but don't trust it blindly as the map data may be outdated.
Finding a parking spot can be even more of a challenge if you don't know where to look for it. Your safest bet is the huge 🌍 parking lot near the harbour (free of charge). To get there, enter the Paseo Luis Lavaggi at its far western end. This road already has some 🌍 parking spaces. To get closer to the harbour you can go all the way through, turn left at the traffic light and then follow the road up the hill and along the coast. Note that it is not possible to enter directly from the east through Calle San Felipe. Also note that in some printed maps this is marked as (futuro) Parque Maritimo. Don't get confused by that, as it has been the future maritime park for decades and will probably remain a parking lot for quite some time.
By trackless train
The Loro Parque Express is a free shuttle service that brings you from the city center to the entrance of Loro Parque and back. The little yellow "train" leaves at Plaza de Los Reyes Católicos every 20 minutes hour from 9:30 to 16:30. The first one back leaves the park at 10:15, and then every 20 minutes until 17:30. The trip takes about 15 minutes.
See
The old port area is bustling and has surprisingly good and interesting shops tucked away among many pleasant bars and bistros. While there are lots of tourists in this area, they are mostly Spanish, and the area is pleasantly free of German and British junk food outlets. Real fisherman still go out from here. As there is so little water space in the harbour, boats are lifted in and out of the water by electric cranes; it's very pleasant to sit with a coffee and watch them. You will still see fisherman gutting squid and scaling fish on the harbour steps. The end of the sea wall by the harbour is a good spot to sunbathe and plunge into the sea, if scarily close to the boats powering in and out of the harbour.
Between here and the Lago Martianez is a fairly tack strip of neon-lighted shops selling two-year-old technology at today's market rates, etc, but overall it's a pleasant walk with some nice churches, houses and gardens in amongst them all.
Museums and historic sites
- 🌍 Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Eduardo Westerdahl (MACEW / Eduardo Westerdahl Museum of Contemporary Art), C/ Las Lonjas, s/n (1st floor of the Casa de la Aduana), ☏ +34 922 381 490, info@macew.com. M-Sa 10:00-14:00; F 10:00-14:00, 17:00-19:30. It was established in 1953 as Spain's first contempoary art museum, in the former Royal Customs House. It has a good collection of modern works by Canary Island artists. Adult €1.50, child free.
- 🌍 Batería de Santa Bárbara, C/ Las Lonjas, 3 (next to the MACEW). This defensive fortification was built in the mid-18th century to protect the city from pirates.
- 🌍 Museo Arqueológico (Archaeological Museum), C/ El Lomo, 9A, ☏ +34 922 371 465, info@arqueopc.com. Tu-Sa 10:00-13:00, 17:00-21:00; Su 10:00-13:00. Has a large collection of indigenous Guanche artifacts, with a focus on pottery. Adult €1, child free.
- 🌍 Castillo de San Felipe, Paseo Luis Lavaggi, 12, ☏ +34 922 373 039. A small defensive fortress built in the early 17th century to defend the town against pirates. After being completely renovated in the late 20th century, it is now used as a venue for concerts and art exhibits.
- 🌍 Iglesia de San Francisco (corner of C/ San Juan and C/ Quintana). Likely the oldest building in Puerto de la Cruz, the church was built between 1599 and 1608 and was attached to a no-longer extant Franciscan monastery.
- 🌍 Ermita de San Telmo (Chapel of St. Telmo), Paseo San Telmo, s/n. Erratic hrs. The small chapel was built in 1780 and dedicated to the patron saint of seafarers. After being partly destroyed by flooding in 1826 the chapel was rebuilt, and fully restored several years ago. Of special note is the interior Mudejar-style carved wooden roof truss.
- 🌍 Plaza Charco. 24/7. Historic central square of Puerto de la Cruz with a fountain in the middle, and lots of shops, bars, and restaurants around it. Free.
- 🌍 Museum of Fishery (Museo Del Pescador), Calle de las Lonjas 5. A small museum with ship models.
Parks
- 🌍 Loro Parque, Avenida Loro Parque (Punta Brava), ☏ +34 922 373 841, webloroparque@loroparque.com. Daily 09:00-17:30 (last entrance at 16:00). A world class zoo that originally started out as a humble parrot park (hence the name). It features the usual big cats, apes, giant turtles, an aquarium, ... as well as the island's only roller coaster. Shows present parrots, dolphins, sea lions, and – not uncontroversially – orcas doing tricks. Buy your tickets online to avoid some of the queuing at the entrance. You can also buy inclusive coach trips from Costa Adeje/Playa de las Américas, which will take you there for the day and back (about 90 minutes travelling each way). Bringing your own drinks and food is explicitly permitted, with "Picnic areas" provided throughout the park. Adult €42, child 6-11 €30, car parking €7.
- 🌍 Jardín de Aclimatación de la Orotava (Jardín Botánico / Botanical Garden), C/ Retama, 2, ☏ +34 922 922 978. Daily 09:00-18:00. Established in 1788 to acclimatize specimens brought back from the New World on their way to mainland Spain, the small Botanical Gardens have an interesting selection of tropical trees and shrubs. Even if you're not interested, it's a beautiful place to wander around and relax. Don't expect to see much of the native Canarian flora there, though. €3.
- 🌍 Jardín de Orquideas Sitio Litre (Jardín Sitio Litre / Orchid Garden), Camino Sitio Litre, s/n, ☏ +34 922 382 417, info@jardindeorquideas.com. Daily 09:30–14:30. The lovely English-style garden of an 18th-century mansion features a large collection of orchids along with bonsai trees and a dragon tree. Famous past visitors have included Sir Richard Burton as well as Agatha Christie, who was inspired to write her short story collection The Mysterious Mr Quin. There is also a pleasant terrace café. Adults €4.75, children 4–12 half price.
- 🌍 Parque Taoro, Calle Taoro 27. 24/7. Park with fountains, waterfalls, and plenty of benches to take a rest in the shade while making your way up the slopes of Puerto de la Cruz. Nice view of the city center. Free.
Do
- 🌍 Lago Martiánez, Avda de Cristóbal Colón, s/n, ☏ +34 922 385 955. 10:00–19:00 (closes 18:00 in winter). A fantastic, post-modern swimming and sunbathing complex designed by the famous Lanzaroteno architect Cesar Manrique. It's a bit concretey by modern standards but is still an awesome paradise which costs hardly anything to enter for the day. See inoffical website for more information. Adult €5.50, child under 10 €2.50; price includes sunbeds.
Beaches
About half a kilometre to the west of the harbour is the 🌍 Playa Jardín, the town's lovely natural beach. The sand is fairly coarse and black, and getting into the sea isn't always easy because of the coarser shingle at the water's edge. The surf is substantial, but not scary and there are lifeguards, along with good facilities in terms of sunbeds, changing, showers, toilets, cafes etc. To the east, there is another beach, the 🌍 Playa Martiánez – just follow the main promenade east past the Lago Martiánez.
For those seeking a little more seclusion, the black-sand beach of 🌍 Playa de Bollullo is a short distance to the east of town, with a beach bar for refreshments. Nearby 🌍 parking spots (paid) are available by the Restaurante Bollullo.
Buy
Steer clear of cameras, binoculars, etc from Asian dealers which are not a bargain like they may first seem. You can almost certainly buy them cheaper back home and take them back if they are faulty. Many shops shut for a few hours from midday.
- 🌍 Mercado Municipal (Municipal Market), Avda Blas Pérez González, 4, ☏ +34 922 386 158, gerencia@mercadomunicipal.net. M-Sa 07:00-17:00. The city's main market has 30 stalls; services and non-food related goods are located on the ground floor, and food items are sold on the first floor. There is also an Alteza supermarket in the building.
- 🌍 Centro Comercial las Pirámides de Martiánez, Avda de Aguilar y Quesada, 1, ☏ +34 922 374 147. M-Sa 10:00-21:30, Su and holidays 10:00-20:00. The main shopping centre has a number of shops and restaurants, including a Mercadona supermarket.
Eat
There are lots of good, affordable restaurants offering typical Canarian and Spanish food in Puerto de la Cruz, especially in the old part of the town. Expect to pay between €15-20 for a meal consisting of grilled fish, Canarian potatoes, mineral water and maybe even a starter such as a bowl of gazpacho soup. Of course most international kitchens are represented too. Food hygiene standards are good, so it's generally safe to eat just about anything.
- 🌍 Mesón Los Gemelos, C/ Peñón, 4, ☏ +34 922 370 133. Th-Tu 12:00-23:00. Popular with both locals and tourists, this restaurant serves traditional Canarian cuisine in a pleasant setting with friendly service. On weekends the queues to get in can be very long, so reservations are recommended. Mains €8-14.
- 🌍 Restaurante Mil Sabores, C/ Cruz Verde, 5, ☏ +34 922 372 247. F-W 12:00-23:00. Serves creative Mediterranean cuisine. Reservations recommended. Mains €12-18.
- 🌍 Meson el Monasterio, La Montañeta, 12 38410 Los Realejos, ☏ +34 922 340 707, info@columbus-sa.eu. M-F 12:00-24:00, Sa Su 10:00-24:00. Restaurant in a beautifully restored former monastery.
- 🌍 El Taller de Seve Diaz, Calle San Felipe 32, ☏ +34 822 25 75 38. W-F 07:30-23:00, Sa 13:30-15:00, 19:30-23:00, Su 13:30-15:00, 19:30-22:30. Traditional Canarian food masterfully prepared by chef Seve and his team. They have a large selection of wines to choose from. €25 - 45.
Grocery stores
For those who self-cater, there are several good-sized supermarkets in town.
- 🌍 Mercadona, Avda Aguilar y Quesada, 1 (in the Las Pirámides de Martiánez shopping centre), ☏ +34 922 374 586.
- 🌍 Mercadona, C/ Blanco, 30, ☏ +34 922 389 269. M-Sa 09:00-21:30.
- 🌍 Supercor Expres, C/ Marina, 8, ☏ +34 922 372 792. Daily 09:00-24:00. A bit more expensive than the others, but open late nights and Sundays.
Drink
Whatever you like is here though you'll normally have to go down south for 'happy hours' and the disco scene.
- 🌍 Vinoteca Con Pasión, Calle de Iriarte 52, ☏ +34 669 09 53 58, vinotecaconpasion@hotmail.com. Gastropub and tapas bar with higher quality food. €3 - 15.
Sleep
Better to book before arrival as a tour or on the internet. Some agencies do long lets. Remember that it can be a long way up a steep hill back to your hotel/apartment if you are at La Paz, the back of town or 'German Town' as some call it because of the number of Germans who have bought apartments there. However taxi service in town is very cheap.
Mid-range
- 🌍 Be Live Experience Orotava, Avda del Aguilar y Quesada, 3 (200 m from the beach and Lago Martiánez, 6 km from Los Rodeos airport), ☏ +34 922 368 860, recepcion.orotava@belivehotels.com. From €60.
- 🌍 Hotel Marquesa, C/ Quintana, 11, ☏ +34 922 383 151. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 08:00-12:00. Built in 1712 as a private manor, the building is named after the Marquesa de Candia, a previous resident. In 1799 the Prussian naturalist Alexander von Humboldt stayed here for five days as a guest of the then-owner Bernardo Cólogan y Fallon. In 1887 it was converted to a hotel. Modern facilities include an outdoor pool, fitness centre, onsite restaurant, non-smoking rooms, and free Wi-Fi. From €61 (doubles).
- 🌍 Hotel Monopol, C/ Quintana, 15, ☏ +34 922 384 611, fax: +34 922 370 310, info@monopoltf.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. This 250-year-old hotel has modern facilities including an outdoor pool and onsite restaurant. Wi-Fi is €6/day; pets permitted on request. From €45 (singles), €78 (doubles); breakfast included.
- 🌍 Hotel DWO Nopal, Calle San Juan, 17, ☏ +34 952 917 417.
Splurge
- 🌍 Hotel Tigaiga, Parque Taoro, 28 (Taoro Park), ☏ +34 922 383 500. A great place to relax. It is surrounded by an extensive subtropical garden and from the heated swimming pool you can enjoy panoramic views which reach from Teide volcano over the Atlantic. From €184 (doubles, half-board).
- 🌍 Hotel Best Semiramis, Calle Leopoldo Cologán Zulueta 12, ☏ +34 922 373 200. Comfortable five-star hotel in the quiet residential area of "La Paz" 1.5 km from the centre of Puerto de la Cruz and "Lago Martianez".
Stay safe
Puerto de la Cruz is often hazy, especially in the afternoon. The temperature drops with the haze, but the UV penetration doesn't; it's very easy to get badly sunburnt here on a hazy day if you don't realise this.
Some people who have hired cars here have been told to leave nothing in them overnight and to even leave them unlocked as that way they do not get their windows broken by people looking to steal from them.
Go next
- 🌍 La Orotava — historic city founded after Spanish conquest of the island with well preserved architecture from that era
- 🌍 El Sauzal — known for its vineyards
- 🌍 Icod de los Vinos — home to the legendary drago tree
- 🌍 Garachico — former Italian merchant town risen from the ashes of a volcanic eruption