Rai Leh

Rai Leh is perhaps the best winter sport rock climbing area in the world, with over seven hundred bolted routes up limestone faces with breathtaking views over the ocean. If you are an avid rock climber, chances are you already know about this place and the spectacular cliffs are the reason you are here.

Climbing is graded on the French scale, most is steep and challenging with only limited possibilities for beginners. Due to the corrosive nature of the seaside location, the steel bolts may be of questionable integrity, bolt failure is not uncommon here, and threads (rope tied through holes in the rock) may be of questionable integrity as well. Overall the rock quality is superb; however, like everywhere else, you will find the occasional loose section including the famed Rai Leh stalactites.

Required climbing gear: Beyond a 60-metre (200-foot) rope, 16 quickdraws, your harness, shoes and a lot of chalk, you won't need much else. Anything you forget or don't have can be rented at climbing shops.

Guides: Rai Leh and Ton Sai have several guide operators with services ranging from introductory rock climbing courses to rent-a-belay partner.

• King Climbers (on the east side of Rai Leh, at Railay Princess Resort). 
• 🌍 Real Rocks Climbing School, Railay East Beach (between Anyavee Resort and Diamond Cave), ☏ +66 80 7181351, realrocksrailay@gmail.com. 09:00-22:00. Real Rocks Railay is a small rock climbing company. Prices vary. (updated Feb 2015)

Guide books: There are three different guide books published in a variety of languages by the local guide shops, each providing excellent directions and route finding. Most can be ordered online, directly from the guide shop, or your local climbing store might carry stock.

• Rock Climbing in Thailand by Elke & Wee. 2007.

• Thailand: A Climbing Guide published by The Mountaineers and written by Sam Lightner Jr. All the money earned from it is to be donated to the re-bolting cause.

Rai Leh is not a major diving spot as the local coral and sea life is not as diverse or spectacular as other areas of Thailand. However there is a dive shop that will certify divers and take them on boat trips to decent dive sites, including a sunken wreck. Serious divers tend to prefer the Similan Islands, Ko Phi Phi or Ko Lanta for quality diving.

• King Cruiser is a car ferry that sank in 1997, providing the area with its only wreck, located at 30 meters. Unfortunately its condition is deteriorating fairly fast in the warm waters. This is the most popular dive site in the area.
• Snorkelling is not a major draw for Rai Leh though it is possible to swim out and see coral and fish a few metres off the sandy beaches. Beware of the ever present longtail boat traffic. Most looking for some snorkelling fun rent a longtail and head for the islands south and west of Rai Leh, such as Poda Island, but even there the snorkelling is only moderate. Some hotels organize snorkelling trips or you may prefer to charter your own boat for the afternoon. A one-way trip usually takes less than 25 minutes.

While not as good as Phang Nga, the kayaking around the peninsula at Rai Leh affords a great alternative to climbing and a stunning view of the area. Several of the limestone islets off Phra Nang Beach have sea caves eroded into their bases, including a few large enough to offer opportunities to beach the kayaks and explore. Paddling into caves and through subterranean passages is particularly interesting, but watch out for low, jagged ceilings. For those with more ambition, a short open-water crossing (about one hour of steady, heavy paddling) leads to the private island of Ko Poda which has beautiful and relatively isolated beaches.

Several bungalow resorts on the Rai Leh West side of the peninsula have sea kayaks available for rent for around 600 baht/half-day, 1,000 baht/full-day (including life-vests). The kayaks are simple two-seat plastic models, but perform fine on the smooth water of the bay. A half-day is probably plenty long enough to explore the immediate environs of Rai Leh. A bottle of water, a hat, and plenty of sun protection are essential!

• Midnight swimming. Au naturel or otherwise, are sensational on dark nights, when the brilliant-blue bioluminescence in the water lights up disturbed water like a neon-lit Christmas tree. To best appreciate this amazing phenomenon, bring a pair of goggles along and swim underwater for a while: the bioluminescence will wreath your body in a million tiny blue lights. (updated Nov 2022)

Rai Leh does not offer many trekking opportunities, as the peninsula is so tiny. The one interesting and undeveloped area is the jungle atop the limestone towers that make up the club-shaped southern end of the peninsula. Along the paved path that runs from Rai Leh East to Phra Nang beach, a so-called "trail" leads up a slippery, rocky embankment to the jungle-covered plateau. A narrow, indistinct trail circles the top of the southern tower, with a left turn offering access to the highest point (accessible via a sheer face and thus navigable only with climbing gear) as well as a fantastic lookout point over the peninsula. A right turn on the path leads downward into a hidden glen, which provides access to the secret lagoon called Sa Phra Nang or Holy Princess Pool. The route from this glen to the lagoon leads down a steep, rocky ravine, and the path is covered with slippery red clay, making it quite treacherous even for the experienced. The technique is not so much climbing as scrambling, and the knotted nylon ropes are often more dangerous than they are helpful. The lagoon itself is breathtakingly beautiful, but try not to step in, as the soft bottomless muck has quite a penchant for trekkers' footwear.

Most Rai Leh budget accommodation is found on the east side of Rai Leh. For the best variety of budget accommodation (wooden bungalows) try neighbouring Ton Sai Beach, a ten min walk or one min longtail ride, where rooms can be had for a few hundred baht/night.

• Railay Cabana Bungalows (Behind Diamond Cave, Rai Leh East). The cheapest accommodation on Rai Leh is a collection of bamboo bungalows. Prices can be as low as 100 baht in the low season, Jul-Aug, reaching 700 baht in high season. The savings do come with a price. Expect a 10- to 15-minute uphill walk from the beach. 500 baht. 
• Railay Phutawan Resort (Formerly Railay Highland Resort) (In the middle of Rai Leh behind Diamond Cave Resort). Offers a complete set of basic room amenities, i.e., fan, air conditioner, shower, bath. 1,200-3,500 baht. 

• 🌍 Anyavee Railay (Anyawee) (Ya-Ya Rd, Rai Leh East). Three room types, swimming pool, daily breakfast. 1,700-6,000 baht (high); 800-1,200 baht (low). 
• Diamond Cave Resort (ไดมอนด์เคฟรีสอร์ทแอนด์สปา), 36 หมู่ 1 Ao Nang (at the far end of Rai Leh East), ☏ +6675819443. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 11:00. With steps from near the beach leading up to well-maintained gardens with a pool, surrounded by a variety of concrete bungalows, several of them in the jungle marking the edge of town. 2,000-3,400 baht high season, 1000 in low season. (updated Nov 2022)
• 🌍 Railay Great View Resort (Rai Leh East; walk past the Last Bar, a 10-min walk, adequately lit at night). Tucked away on its own away from the hustle and bustle. Gorgeous views with very well designed cottages with a mix of traditional and modern design. Free Wi-Fi throughout resort. Restaurant and mini-mart onsite. Restaurant does not serve alcohol. Room rate includes buffet breakfast (reasonably good variety and quality). Very steep incline up into the resort so not for aged, infirm, or tipsy! Fan 1,200 (low)-1,500 (high); Air-con 2,000-3,150 baht, deluxe 2,500-3,750 baht. 
• 🌍 Railay Princess (between Rai Leh East and West). Daily breakfast and swimming pool in the valley of high limestone mountain. Slightly cheaper sister of Railay Bay Resort & Spa hotel. 2,800-5,000 baht. 
• Railay Viewpoint Resort. Resort set in beautiful natural surroundings boasting unbeatable views of Rai Leh Beach and the hanging limestone crags beyond. Over the mountain through the natural forest, then back down to West Beach for the 30 minute sunset to the sandy white beaches of Rai Leh. 
• Railay Village Hotel, 544 Moo 2 Ao Nang, ☏ +6675819412. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Collection of concrete bungalows, each with private bath and fan or air con, set back off the beach in a garden setting. 2,500 baht +. (updated Nov 2022)

• 🌍 Bhu Nga Thani Resort (Rai Leh East), ☏ +66 75 819451-4, fax: +66 75 819455, info@bhungathani.com. 60 rooms. Curiously up-market considering its setting on less obviously impressive Rai Leh East. Restaurant rarely busy, but beautiful design. 6,000-40,000 baht. 
• 🌍 Railay Bay Resort & Spa. Straddling the whole of Rai Leh peninsula's narrowest point, very nice cottages. 4,500-19,000 baht (high); 3,000-12,000 baht (low). 
• Rai Lei Beach Club (on the west side of Rai Leh, adjacent to the Walking St). Rents private houses which vary in size and quality. None have air conditioning or hot water, but include daily maid service. High season rates begin at 3,500 baht for a single room home up to 13,000 baht for a three bedroom home that sleeps twelve.. 
• 🌍 Rayavadee (Phra Nang access either from the south of Rai Leh East or Phra Nang Beach), ☏ +66 75 620740. The only resort on Phra Nang Beach, with a jaw-dropping gorgeous view and prices to match. You'll be looking at upwards of 20,000 baht/night for a stay here. However, after mid-morning the gorgeous public Phra Nang Beach is quite popular and so the room rates do not guarantee the sort of privacy you'd expect. The interior is private and beautiful (supposedly, but who knows?) Non-guests are reminded with frequent signs not to enter). 11,500-107,000 baht (low); 32,500-180,000 baht (high) before tax and service charges. 
• Sand Sea Hotel. A collection of concrete bungalows, private baths, choice of fan or air-con and quietly set back off the beach among a garden setting. Although the included breakfast buffet is nothing special, the rooms have marginally nicer décor, and has a nice swimming pool (which attracts a more family-oriented clientèle). High season rates 3,500-5,700 baht. 

Getting a tattoo is a popular thing to do on any vacation, but beware of the tattoo scam here. Getting a tattoo in Rai Leh is strongly discouraged. You will be severely overcharged for a tattoo using questionably sterile equipment by a questionably skilled artist. First, in order to impress you, they will show photographs that they found online which they claim is their own work. Unless the artist is in the photograph with the recipient, it is not their own work.

Once you have described what you want to the artist, they will refuse to give you any kind of estimate, and insist that they must first draw the design on you with a pen before giving you a cost but tell you that drawing is free. While they are drawing, they will delay you as much as possible in order to get you drunk. They'll convince you that the tattoo hurts less with more alcohol, pretend to be your friend and drink with you, have drinks delivered from nearby bars (which of course you have to pay for) and various deceptive and manipulative tactics. Once you're drunk enough, they will finish the drawing and give you a price that is three times the cost of a tattoo from more skilled artists in the United States. They're counting on you being too drunk to realize how much you're spending and you'll just go to the nearest ATM, or that you just won't care if you highly overpay because you're on vacation. They may bargain down to about twice the cost of an American tattoo if you're lucky.

Even if you don't care about the cost, getting a tattoo here is still highly inadvisable. The artists here are not as skilled as they appear to be, and since they use a bamboo needle without sufficient skill the tattoo will not last as long. Although they may claim to use new disposable needles, the sterility of their equipment is questionable at best.