Regensburg
Regensburg is one of Germany's oldest towns, founded by the Romans in 179 AD. It is in the German federal state of Bavaria, at the northernmost point of the river Danube. As capital of the district of Upper Palatinate and also its biggest settlement, Regensburg today is a thriving city of about 137,000 inhabitants. It has two universities and many landmarks and little chapels, most dating back to the Middle Ages (e.g. the Cathedral of St. Peter, the Old City Hall and Imperial Diet, and the Stone Bridge). According to legend there are so many chapels here, that there would always be at least one church bell ringing. The historic city center of Regensburg and Stadtamhof has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2006. Because of its narrow alleys Regensburg is often called the northernmost city of Italy.
Understand
History
The earliest settlements in the area date back as far as 5000 BC and the first Celtic settlement, called Ratisbona, was in the city's present-day vicinity from the first millennium BC.
The official history starts in 179 AD, when the Romans built the fortress Castra Regina at the northernmost bend of the river Danube. For the following 200 years the fortress served as the Romans main military base in the province of Raetia. After the Romans left the area during the Barbarian Invasions, the town became a civil settlement.
From about 500 Regensburg was the seat of the Bavarian dukes and was therefore referred to as the first Bavarian "capital". In 739, the bishopric of Regensburg was founded by St. Boniface, making it one of the oldest on German soil.
Regensburg grew to strength and prosperity during the Middle Ages. In the 9th century Regensburg was one of the most important cities in the East Frankish Kingdom. Through the long-distance trade to Paris, Kiev and Venice; Regensburg’s economy boomed in the 12th and 13th century, and it was one of the most populous and prosperous cities. A sign of the prosperity of the time is the construction of the Stone Bridge (c. 1135-1146). In 1245, Emperor Frederick II raised Regensburg to the status of Free Imperial City, and it remained so until 1803.
Construction of the cathedral started in 1273, and building continued for nearly 600 years until the structure was completed in 1872. Both the Stone Bridge and Regensburg Cathedral have survived unchanged and are the city's main sights today.
When the Empire dissolved during the Napoleonic Wars, Napoleon forced Regensburg to agree to become a part of the Kingdom of Bavaria in 1810, which ended the city's political importance. This decline in importance in the 19th century meant that industrialisation and modernisation of that time had a limited effect on the city, and many buildings prior to this period were preserved.
Regensburg economically regained some strength because of its role as a river port for crude oil imports from Eastern Europe. Although Regensburg was targetted by 20 allied bombings during World War II, because it was home to one of Messerschmitt's main aircraft factories as well as an oil refinery, the historic city center suffered little damage. Two sub-camps of the Flossenbürg concentration camp were located near the town for a brief period of time in early 1945. In 1960 the university was founded and several large companies like Siemens, BMW, Infineon, and Toshiba built factories in the city. In 2006 Regensburg's historic city center was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Regensburg was also home to the German Pope Joseph Ratzinger (Benedict XVI). He spent a long time in the city and from 1969 on he taught theology at Regensburg University.
Get in
By plane
Munich Airport (MUC IATA), 100 km south, is usually the most convenient for its good range of domestic and international flights at competitive fares. An hourly regional train takes 80 min direct to Regensburg, you don't need to double back via central Munich. The Bayern Ticket is valid on this train.
Nuremberg Airport (NUE IATA) is 100 km north-west and has mostly domestic plus a few European connections. From the airport take U-Bahn U2 to Nuremberg Central Station and change for the train to Regensburg, journey time is about 90 min. By road follow autobahn A3.
By train
🌍 Regensburg Hauptbahnhof, Bahnhofstrasse 18,93047 Regensburg (700m south of city centre). Generally has a traveler friendly infrastructure, including several restaurants, a tourist office and a Deutsche Bahn ticket office and travel agency. It is served by numerous regional trains, many national high-speed ICE and IC long-distance trains and also offers two direct international connections.
- ICE 91: Vienna (Austria) - Passau - Regensburg - Nuremberg - Frankfurt - Cologne
- ALEX: Munich - Freising - Regensburg - Prague (Czech Republic)
- IC 26: Passau - Regensburg - Nuremberg - Frankfurt - Hamburg
- IC 31: Regensburg - Nuremberg - Frankfurt - Düsseldorf - Hanover - Hamburg
- RE: Munich - Freising - Landshut - Regensburg - Nuremberg
- ag: Ingolstadt - Regensburg - Landshut
By car
Regensburg is easily accessible via the German autobahn network, with two autobahns intersecting in the city:
- A 3: Cologne - Frankfurt - Würzburg - Nuremberg - Regensburg - Passau - Linz (Austria) - Vienna (Austria)
- A 93: (Munich via A 9 -) Hallertau - Regensburg - (Prague via A 6) - Hof (- Berlin via A 72 & A 9)
There are also major national highways passing the city:
- B 8: Nuremberg - Regensburg - Straubing - Passau
- B 15: Weiden - Schwandorf - Regensburg - Landshut
- B 16: Ingolstadt - Regensburg - Cham
There are several possibilities for parking. The pricing differs (refer to the official website) and sometimes includes a free bus ticket.
By bus
Travelers to Regensburg by bus usually arrive at the big bus station in Stadtamhof, on the other side of the Danube. The city has many regional services and also a few national and international connections, most notably an express bus to Prague (Czech Republic), which is much faster than the train.
By boat
On the banks of the river Danube, that runs via Vienna (Austria), Belgrade (Serbia) and Budapest (Hungary) to the Black Sea, Regensburg is the start and end point of regular river cruises along the whole length of the Danube. Thanks to the Main Danube Canal cruises can offer both a stop in Regensburg and in Nuremberg as well as cities along the Main, the Rhine and the Danube.
Get around
As the city center is reasonably compact, it's best explored by foot. The historic city center is a pedestrian zone, so if you arrive by car you will have to park in one of the several parking garages around the center (see here for a map and details). All major points of interest are within a 1 km (1,100 yd) radius.
You can rent bikes from the station.
To reach Walhalla, you also can take a ship, which leaves from the pier close to the Stone Bridge (Steinerne Brücke) twice daily. See below for information.
By bus
For longer distances, Regensburg has a comprehensive public bus network, operated by RVV and RVB. Buses are frequent (10 min intervals during peak hours) and run until around midnight every day. The centre of the bus network is Albertstraße bus station just opposite the train station. There is also an Altstadtbus taking you through the inner city. The price for 90 minutes is €2.40 in Zone 1 (central). You can get an all day pass for all zones for €5.00.
Regensburg used to have a modest tram network until the 1960s and there is talk of building a light rail system, but it will be the late 2020s before anything gets built.
See
As one of the few cities in Germany that remained mostly undamaged during World War II, Regensburg boasts the largest preserved medieval city centre in Germany. It contains the highlights of the city: Regensburg Cathedral and the Stone Bridge. The city is sometimes called "the northernmost city of Italy" due to the lively places and streets with lovely outdoor cafes during summer, as well as the large number of Italian-style medieval merchant houses and towers. The historic centre lies next to the river Danube (German: Donau), and crossing the medieval stone bridge into the town provides a perfect entrance to the city and a great view over the whole historic city centre.
Churches
Regensburg has many churches, chapels and former monasteries. According to legend there are so many of them, that there would always be at least one of them with bells ringing.
- 🌍 Minor basilica Unserer lieben Frau zur Alten Kapelle, Schwarze-Bären-Straße 7, ☏ +49 941 57973, administration@alte-kapelle.de. The church was first mentioned in 875. It was renovated several times and nowadays the interior is a great example of Rococo architecture. Especially the altar is of outstanding beauty.
- 🌍 Neupfarrkirche, Neupfarrplatz 5, ☏ +49 941 5920112, pfarramt.neupfarrkirche.r@elkb.de. Neupfarrkirche is a Protestant church at the central square of Regensburg. The first structures were built in 1519, shortly after the Jewish population, who lived in the neighbourhood, was illegally chased out of the city during a power vacuum caused by the death of emperor Maximilian I.
- 🌍 Regensburg Cathedral (Regensburger Dom), Domplatz 1, ☏ +49 941 5971660, domfuehrungen@bistum-regensburg.de. Apr-May & Oct 06:30-18:00, Jun-Sep 06:30-19:00, Nov-Mar 06:30-17:00. The Cathedral of St. Peter is the seat of the Catholic diocese of Regensburg and the prime example of Gothic architecture in Bavaria. Construction commenced in 1273 and the church was finished in 1872, after more than 600 years of work. The cathedral is open for visitors outside mass. Tours are available for individuals as well as groups. free.
- Regensburg Domspatzen. A highlight of a visit to the cathedral is a concert or rehearsal of the world famous boys' choir Domspatzen who perform during the Sunday mass - except in the summer season.
- 🌍 Scots Monastery (Jakobskirche), Jakobstraße 3, ☏ +49 941 29830, info@priesterseminar-regensburg.de. Daily 08:00-18:00. Founded around the year 1070 by Hiberno-Scottish missionaries, the church was in the hands of Irish and Scottish monks most of its history. The most famous architectural element of the structure is the dark north portal with its enigmatic composition of ornamental and figural sculptures. Contrary to the dark outside, the interior is very bright and friendly. free.
Buildings
- 🌍 Historic Sausage Kitchen (Alte Wurschtkuchl), Thundorferstraße 3, ☏ +49 941 466210. Daily 08:00-19:00. This tavern by the Danube was the first sausage kitchen in the world and already served the construction workers of the Stone Bridge and the Cathedral in the 12th century. That allegedly makes it the first fast food joint ever. It is still a restaurant specializing in all kinds of sausage dishes and a definite must-see for every Regensburg visitor.
- 🌍 Palace St. Emmeram (Schloss St. Emmeram), Emmeramsplatz 5, ☏ +49 941 50480, gesamtverwaltung@thurnundtaxis.de. Tours: Daily 10:30, 12:30, 14:30, 16:30. St. Emmeram is a palace of the Princely House of Thurn and Taxis, a former key player in postal services in Europe. The palace can only be visited as part of a tour, as the owners still live here. The treasure chamber and royal stables can be visited daily 11:00-17:00 for €4.50 without booking a tour. Adults €13.50, Concessions €11.
- 🌍 Porta Praetoria, Unter den Schwibbögen. The Porta Praetoria is claimed as Germany's most ancient stone building (although the Drususstein tower in Mainz can be certainly dated to 9 BC). It is dating back to 179 AD and was the northern gateway of the Roman settlement and military camp Castra Regina.
- 🌍 Stone Bridge (Steinerne Brücke), Steinerne Brücke. The Stone Bridge is Regensburg's most important landmark, besides Regensburg Cathedral, and a masterpiece of medieval architecture. It was built 1135-1146 and today is a pedestrian bridge that connects the city center with Stadtamhof.
Museums and Monuments
- 🌍 Old Town Hall and Museum of the Imperial Perpetual Diet (Reichstagsmuseum), Rathausplatz 1, ☏ +49 941 5073440. Tours: Nov-Dec & Mar 14:00, Apr-Oct 15:00. Regensburg was the seat of the Perpetual Diet of the Holy Roman Empire 1663-1806. The museum, which is located in the Old Town Hall, focuses around the Holy Roman Empire and its influence on German and European history. €40 + (per person) €4.
- 🌍 Walhalla memorial (Walhalla), Walhallastraße 48, Donaustauf (Apr-Oct by ferry (close to the Stone Bridge)), ☏ +49 9403 961680, wal.ver@t-online.de. Apr-Sep 09:00-17:45, Oct 09:00-16:45, Nov-Mar 10:00-11:45 & 13:00-15:45. The Walhalla is a hall of fame that honours laudable and distinguished people, and famous personalities in German history – politicians, sovereigns, scientists and artists. The neo-classical structure was built 1830-1842 and is considered to be the most important building commissioned by King Ludwig I. It is located outside the city of Regensburg on a hill next to the Danube. The most scenic way to get there is by ferry, which docks close to the Stone Bridge. Alternatively you can take the local bus route 5 to the "Walhallastraße" stop in Donaustauf. Both routes require you to climb about 358 steps on the most direct route up the hill. Adults €4, Concessions €3.
Do
- Visit a mass in the cathedral on Sunday morning when the world-famous boys' choir "Domspatzen" is singing.
- Visit the theatre
- Visit the Dult when it's May or September! It's like a small "Wiesn" for Regensburg.
- There is a Bürgerfest in Stadtamhof every odd year (2025, 2027 …)
- Every year in December the Christmas Market is at the Neupfarrplatz.
- 🌍 Domspatzen boys' choir, Domplatz 1, ☏ +49 941 79620, info@domspatzen.de. During Sunday mass. Visit a mass in the Cathedral on Sunday mornings when the world-famous boys' choir Domspatzen is singing. Free.
- Guided tours in costume (Stadtmaus). The "Stadtmaus" offers tours through the historical city. The guide wears a historic costume and you meet costumed enactors on the way. Tours seem only to be available in German.
Buy
Regensburg made its fortune trading in salt, however it is unlikely that you will be taking this home as a souvenir. Regensburg has many centuries worth of old breweries, so perhaps some local beer, or perhaps a litre Stein (glass) would be a good purchase. Try some "Händlmaier's Senf", the typical sweet mustard that is usually served with white sausages.
There are several shopping malls in Regensburg:
- Regensburg Arcaden (directly connected to the main station). Handy if you have some time to kill at the station, and has many food shops.
- Donaueinkaufszentrum (DEZ). Very big shopping mall, you can find almost everything in it
- The Alex Center
- The KÖWE Center
Eat
Regensburg has a superb variety of places to eat, from snacks, to traditional brewery fare, past international cuisine to high-class restaurants. There is sure to be something to please every taste. One famous place is the "Wurstkuchl", just at the Steinerne Brücke (Stone Bridge), founded over 900 years ago and presumably the oldest fast food restaurant in the world. There is a small beer garden right at the river bank where you can enjoy the sausage specialties served by waiters in medieval dress.
Budget
All these are in the city centre:
Mid-range
Drink
In the inner city there are over 350 bars, cafés, clubs and discos within easy walking distance of each other.
Breweries and beergardens
Regensburgs main drink is, just as usual for Bavarian cities, surely beer. The city boasts three functioning breweries and two brew pubs, producing a variety of beer styles, from lighter Pils to heavy Dunkels; Weißbier (wheat beer) is also locally made. A typical pub to visit would be the "Kneitinger" at the Arnulfsplatz 3. Also the beer gardens near the Danube "Alte Linde" and "Spital Garten", both reachable from the Stone Bridge, offer a perfect way to taste Regensburg-brewed beer. The Bischofshof beer can be tasted next to the cathedral in the court of the "Bischofshof", where the brewery used to be.
The beer from the Thurn und Taxis brand is primarily no longer brewed in Regensburg, but an exception is the Thurn und Taxis brew pub "Fürstliches Brauhaus" in the Waffnergasse 6.
When visiting in summer, there isn't much (in terms of enjoying a cold one) that tops sitting in one of Regensburg's beergardens.
🌍 Alte Linde, Müllerstraße 1, 93059 Regensburg, altelinde_wiesbeck@yahoo.de/.
🌍 Kneitinger Keller, Galgenbergstraße 18, 93053 Regensburg.
🌍 Spitalgarten, St.-Katharinen-Platz 1, 93059 Regensburg.
Clubs
- The Velvet: St.-Peters-Weg
- The Gloria: Simadergasse
- The Scala: Pustetpassage, Gesandtenstraße
- The Zap: Rote-Stern-Gasse
- Gasthaus Kneitinger
Sleep
- 🌍 Brook Lane Hostel, Obere Bachgasse 21 (Altstadtbus: Gutenbergplatz), ☏ +49 941 6900966, kontakt@hostel-regensburg.de. One of two hostels in the city and the only one in the very heart of town and a very inexpensive alternative to a hotel. It has all hostel style amenities, including an in-house supermarket. Furthermore, it's the only hostel in Regensburg that allows guest over the age of 26. from €16.50.
- 🌍 Hansa Apart Hotel, Friedenstraße 7 (Bus 11: Evang. Zentralfriedhof), ☏ +49 941 99290, reservierung@hansa-apart-hotel.de. Near the station and the university. Double from €110, Single from €85.
- 🌍 Hostel Regensburg (Jugendherberge Regensburg), Wöhrdstraße 60 (Bus: Wöhrdstraße/Jugendherberge), ☏ +49 941 4662830, regensburg@jugendherberge.de. The hostel is located on Unterer Wöhrd island in the river Danube. from €21.
- 🌍 Hotel Goliath am Dom, Goliathstraße 10 (Bus: Fischmarkt), ☏ +49 941 2000900, reservierung@hotel-goliath.de. Very nice, small and comfortable Hotel right next to Regensburg Cathedral. You can reach every point of interest from here by foot. Double from €175, Single from €140.
- 🌍 Hotel Sorat, Müllerstraße 7 (Bus: Wöhrdstraße), ☏ +49 941 81040, regensburg@sorat-hotels.com. High class hotel near the Stone Bridge (Steinerne Brücke) on one of the Wöhrd islands in the river Danube. Double from €108, Single from €77.
- 🌍 ZAR Hotel Vitalis (Hotel Vitalis), Dr.-Gessler-Str. 29, ☏ +49 941 2985 9207, info@zar-hotel-vitalis.de. The hotel is just 3.5 km from city centre making it easy to get out and about and the motorway access is only a few minutes away. Single Rooms €59, Double Rooms €69 (weekends).
- Hotel Bischofshof.
- Hotel-Orphee. Those of us old enough for senior railpasses may enjoy a contemplative soak in the tub - carefully as there may not be a grab rail and “warm” means piping hot. Whereas those of you still young enough for youth railpasses may prefer the art and complementary bottle of wine. All of us can dream of Paris.
- 🌍 Ibis Syles Regensburg. On the north bank of the river with plenty of (paid) parking, this can be a good hotel for drivers. Walk along the river to the city or hire a bike from the hotel. €70.
Stay safe
Regensburg is, like many Bavarian cities, a very safe place. The biggest threat to your health is the local beer drinking culture in combination with the easy availability of alcohol - be careful when you try to keep up with the locals in the art of drinking.
Connect
Regensburg and its approach highways have 5G from all German carriers. Wifi ("WLAN" in German) is widely available in public places.
Go next
- Cham is a town in Upper Palatinate, 60 min away from Regensburg by train to the north-east, close to the Czech border.
- Landshut, the capital of Lower Bavaria, is 40 min away by train to the south. The city's main attractions are the quadrennial Landshut Wedding, which takes place in the well preserved medieval city center, and St. Martin's Church, the highest church in Bavaria.
- Munich is the capital of Bavaria and its only city with over a million people. It is best known for the annual Oktoberfest, but is foremost a city of culture and arts. It is a 90 min train ride south of Regensburg.
- Passau is a quaint university town at the confluence of the rivers Danube, Iller and Ilz. Passau is close to the Austrian border and it takes approx. 60 min by train to get there.
- Weltenburg Abbey (Kloser Weltenburg) and the Danube Gorge are two famous sites, located upstream of the Danube to the west.
Routes through Regensburg |
Frankfurt ← Nuremberg ← | W E | → Deggendorf → Passau |
Hof ← ← | N S | → Hallertau → |
Schwandorf ← | N S | → Landshut → Rosenheim |
Ingolstadt ← | W E | → Cham |
Frankfurt ← Nuremberg ← | W E | → Passau → Vienna |
Nuremberg ← | NW S | → Landshut → Munich |
Prague ← | NE S | → Landshut → Munich |