Rome/Trastevere

Trastevere is a district in Rome. The district's name derives from the Latin words "Trans Tiberem": beyond the Tiber river. Today Trastevere is one of the centers of Roman night life; rich in pubs, restaurants, clubs. Trastevere has a high population of expatriates and American college students as there are two American universities in the area.

Get in

By train

Trains (marked regionale, not the express to Termini) from Leonardo da Vinci airport stop at Trastevere Railway station. Then hop on tram n° 8.

By tram

Tram n° 8 from Piazza Argentina is a nice tram for the short distance from close to the Pantheon to Trastevere. It runs frequently but unless you have luggage Trastevere is close enough to walk.

By bus
  • Night Bus n° 8
  • Bus n° H from Stazione Termini (the main train station)

By car

Cars of non-residents of Trastevere are not permitted to park there after dark so you'll have to park close and walk if you're going by car. Beware that on weekends or on any warm evening parking can involve driving round in circles for a long time looking for a place.

See
  • 🌍 San Crisogono, Piazza Sonnino 40 (bus H, 23, 280, tram 8), ☏ +39 065818225. M-Sa 07:30-11:30 and 16:15-19:30, Su 08:30-13:00 and 16:15-19:30. 
  • Casa della Fornarina, Via di Santa Dorotea 20 (bus 23, 280). There is little information available on Raphael's mistress La Fornarina. Margherita was the daughter of a baker from Siena. His shop was near Villa Farnesina where Raphael was painting. It is reported that Raphael repudiated her on his death bed as he wanted to be redeemed from his sins. Four months after his death Margherita joined the monastery Santa Apollonia in Trastevere. It is said that she was model for Raphael's portrait La Donna Velata. 
  • 🌍 Ponte Sisto (bus 23, 380). Pope Sixtus IV della Rovere (1471-1481) gave order to replace the old Roman bridge by a new one. It was Pope Sixtus IV who also ordered the Sistine Chapel and the Opsedale di Santo Spirito to be built. So he ran out of money. He levied a tax on prostitution in order to gain money for the construction of the Ponte Sisto. 
  • 🌍 Santa Maria in Trastevere, Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere (bus stop Viale di Trastevere, bus n° H,8,630 and 780), ☏ +39 06 581 4802. summer: 08:00-20:00, winter: 08:00-12:00, 16:00-20:00. One of the oldest churches in the city. The nave is lined with a mismatched collection of columns taken from ancient Roman buildings. The apse is covered in gold mosaics from the 13th century, arguably the finest mosaics in the city. Impressive mosaics also on the front. According to legend the church was founded in 222, so it would be one of the most ancient churches in the city. Written records mention a church on this place in 337. What is visible today was built in the 12th century, by order of Pope Innocent III. The facade is decorated with mosaics representing the Virgin Mary and ten unidentified figures. Most probably these mosaics are the work of Petro Cavallini who created the mosaics of the lower apse dated 1290 representing scenes from the life of Mary. The mosaics of the upper apse in byzantine style are even older and date from 1140. The columns of the nave originate from the ancient Baths of Caracalla. The facade of Santa Maria in Trastevere is even more impressive at night when it is illuminated. 
  • 🌍 Santa Cecilia in Trastevere, Piazza di Santa Cecilia in Trastevere, ☏ +39 06 589 9289. daily 09:30-12:30, 16:00-18:30, frescos by Cavallini: M-Sa 10:15-12:15, Su 11:00-12:30. Very ornately done and beautiful inside, but don't expect any information in English. All information panels are only in Italian. It's still a beautiful site though even if you don't read Italian. According to tradition St.Cecily suffered a particular cruel death as a martyr. She was scalded, suffocated and beheaded by three strokes on her neck. As she was singing all the time during her martyrdom she is considered the patron of music. The building of today shows a mixture of various styles, from the porticus of the 12th-century to the 18th-century facade. 
  • 🌍 San Francesco a Ripa, Piazza S.Francesco d'Assisi (South side of Trastevere). open to the public every day from 08:00 to 13:00 and from 14:00 to 19:30. During the liturgical celebrations is not possible to visit the church or the shrine. Named after St. Francis of Assisi, who stayed nearby. Inside the Paluzzi-Albertoni chapel is one of Bernini’s masterpieces, the statue of the Blessed Ludovica Albertoni. The column in front of the church comes from the ruins of Veii (see Rome/North). 
  • 🌍 Villa Farnesina, Via della Lungara 230 (on the northern edge of Trastevere), ☏ +39 06 6802 7268, . M-Sa 09:09-14:00. Delightful Renaissance house that was built by a rich banker from Siena, Agostino Chigi. In 1577 it was bought by the Farnese family and has since been known as Villa Farnesina. At one time there were plans by Michelangelo to build a bridge over the river to connect the villa with Palazzo Farnese on the other side. You can tour several beautiful rooms that are all decorated with frescoes, including some by Raphael. Particularly entertaining is the Loggia of Cupid and Psyche, the former entrance hall, in which nearly every person represented is without clothes. €6. 
  • 🌍 National Gallery of Ancient Art, Via della Lungara 10 (beside the Villa Farnesina), ☏ +39 06 68802323. housed in the baroque palace Corsini where Christina, Queen of Sweden settled down in the last years of her life (updated Jun 2016)
  • 🌍 Orto Botanico dell'Università di Roma "La Sapienza" (Botanical Gardens), Largo Cristina di Svezia, 24 (Northwest edge of Trastevere), ☏ +39 0649917107, . Nov-Mar: M-Sa 09:00-17:30; Apr-Oct: M-Sa 09:00-17:30. This garden was established in 1883. It has over 3,500 species of plants and includes a "Scent-and-Touch" garden for those who are visually impaired. €8. (updated Dec 2016)
  • 🌍 Museum of Rome in Trastevere (Museo di Roma in Trastevere), Piazza Sant'Egidio 1/b (just behind Santa Maria in Trastevere), ☏ +39 06 0608 (daily 09:00-19:00). Tu-Su 10:00-20:00, M closed. Last admission 1h before closing. Permanent collection features paintings and drawings of Rome between the 18th and 20th centuries together with a fascinating black and white photo exhibition of Rome from 1950-80. Also offers rotating exhibitions, usually of the work of photographers. €8.50. 
  • 🌍 Villa Sciarra, Viale delle Mura Gianicolensi. A lovely, if somewhat run-down park (parts of it are blocked due to the poor state of the roads) with statues and a great view on the city. (updated Jan 2020)

The Janiculum
  • 🌍 Il Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill) (can be reached by climbing Via Garibaldi from Trastevere; go right, through the gates, into the Passegiato di Gianicolo in order to reach the viewpoint at Piazza Garibaldi). This is not, contrary to popular belief, one of the original seven hills that Rome was founded on. It is the second highest after Monte Mario, though, and offers incredible panoramic views of the city as long as the authorities remember to prune the trees on the hillside (if they are too tall you can walk a few meters down the hill for views that are just as good). On the other side of the piazza there is also a nice view of the dome of St. Peter's. The Piazza and the street leading up the hill are dedicated to Giuseppe Garibaldi who led Italian troops against the French here in 1849. There are also several commemorative statues. 
  • 🌍 San Pietro in Montorio (on the second corner of the windy Via Garibaldi). This church, which was commissioned by Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain, marks the point where, according to tradition, St. Peter was crucified. Particularly interesting for Irish visitors as it contains the graves of three Gaelic Chiefs who fled Ireland in 1607. 
  • 🌍 The Tempietto (in the grounds of San Pietro in Montorio). Tu-Sa 10:00-18:00, M closed. Designed by Bramante to mark the spot of St. Peter's martyrdom, this delightful miniature building is considered a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture. Open to the public. Free. 
  • 🌍 Fontana dell'Acqua Paola (on the left of Via Garibaldi opposite San Pietro in Montorio). This massive early 17th-century Baroque fountain was built to celebrate the re-opening of an old Roman aqueduct. Water played an important role in this area in Roman times as the grain was milled here using water mills. 
  • 🌍 Manfredi Lighthouse (Faro del Gianicolo) (after Piazza Garibaldi follow the road down the hill in the direction of St. Peter's). Strange to see a lighthouse on top of a hill. This was built in 1911 and was a gift to the city from Italians living in Argentina. From here you can continue down the hill, past Rome's largest and Italy's most important children's hospital, Bambino Gesu, eventually arriving at the River Tiber close to the Vatican. 

Do
  • Get lost in Trastevere. The cobbled streets are narrow and winding and random but losing your way will lead you to places you might not otherwise find. Note that the cobblestone streets (locally called sampietrini) are being paved elsewhere in Rome as the vibrations from cars driving over them have been found to lead to cracking in the foundations of many of the monuments and historic sites around the city. The sampietrini are mostly being left alone in Trastevere though. 
  • 🌍 Piazza S. Maria in Trastevere. Beautiful place to hang around and watch people going by, as well as the many buskers usually found in the square. Join the students sitting on the steps of the fountain or, if you can afford it, have a drink or meal at one of the restaurants and bars on two sides of the square. 
  • 🌍 Big Mama, Vicolo di San Francesco a Ripa 18 (a narrow street leading off Via di San Francesco a Ripa). Shows normally begin around 22:00 but check Press for details. Rome’s original "House of the Blues". Has been going strong for 25 years. Italian and international artists, with blues and jazz concerts. 

Buy
  • Viale di Trastevere, from the start of this 2.5-km-long street at Ponte Garibaldi (in the north) and all the way to the Trastevere Train Station (in the south) you can find stands selling fresh fruit and vegetables, flowers, clothing, accessories (such as knock-off designer purses and wallets) and a number of other things.
  • 🌍 Porta Portese. On Sunday mornings there is a huge flea market. It extends from Porta Portese to Viale di Trastevere. 
  • Frengo's music, Via della Lungaretta, 65, ☏ +39 06 5833 2402. One of the few CD shops in the centre of Rome still run by a music lover instead of a shop assistant in a franchising chain. You can find a nice selection of CDs, DVDs, Console games and Dolby Surround home stereos. 

Eat

Trastevere is the best place in city to get great Italian food at reasonable prices. There are dozens of quality restaurants in this area. A few are listed below; prices for a pizza or pasta dish with some wine or beer and bruschetta are around €12-15 and should not exceed €20 per person, though if you want to spend more you certainly have the option. Restaurants tend to open much earlier here than in other parts of Rome, mainly to cater to tourists as no self-respecting Roman would go out for dinner before 20:00.

  • 🌍 Ai Bozzi, Piazza Giuditta Tavani Arquati 107 (in the heart of Trastevere, off Via della Lungaretta, close to piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere), ☏ +39 06 58 16 640. 12:30-15:30 & 19:00-00:00. Italian restaurant with excellent food and professional service. Traditional dishes as well innovative variations (try the fettuccine with artichokes and guanciale). Pizza is also served in the evening. Lovely outside terrace overlooking the piazza. €20-40 per person. 
  • 🌍 Augusto, Piazza de' Renzi, 15, ☏ +39 06 580 3798. from 20:00. A small osteria in the heart of Trastevere. Authentic non-touristic Roman restaurant serving classic Roman dishes, hand-made desserts and wine. It's a good idea to phone ahead to see if they have room because this small place fills up fast every night, although if you don't mind waiting they'll squeeze you in if they can. They do not take reservations. 
  • 🌍 Fior di luna, Via della Lungaretta 96, ☏ +39 06 6456 1314. Very good ice cream and made from fair trade products by an ice cream artist with a passion for taste. 
  • 🌍 Glass Hostaria, Vicolo del Cinque 58, ☏ +39 06 5833 5903, fax: +39 06 5834 9666, . Tu-Sa 20:00-23:00; closed 21 Jan 21-6 Feb. Uber-modern trattoria. €30-50. 
  • Il Conte Tacchia, Vicolo del Bologna 87, ☏ +39 06 581 3189. Roman cuisine at dinner. 
  • 🌍 Ivo a Trastevere, Via di S. Francesco a Ripa 158 (a short walk from Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere), ☏ +39 06 581 7082. Get here early if you want a table without a wait. Very popular pizzeria that attracts lengthy queues of young Romans, so it must be good. 
  • La Fraschetta, Via San Francisco a Ripa (close to Viale Trastevere). Reputed to have the best gnocchi in the city, but it's only offered on Thursday nights. They offer 4 sauces with gnocchi, and if you like cheese the best bet is gorgonzola. If you want to go on a Thursday, go early because by 21:00, the normal time to arrive at a restaurant in Rome, it will be packed. Opens at 19:00. 
  • La Gattabuia, Via Del Porto 1, ☏ +39 06 584813, . Lunch (except Saturday) 12:00 -14:30; dinner (every day) 19:30 - 23:30. Serves pizza, pasta and steak. Great atmosphere and friendly staff. Unique location and décor. 
  • Osteria dell'Aquila, Via Natale del Grande 52/53 (take the H bus to Trastevere), ☏ +39 06 5810924, fax: +39 06 581 0924. W-M. Mediterranean style restaurant. Menu is in Italian and English, and the waiters speak both languages. Open for lunch and dinner. The meals here are excellent and at very good prices. Make sure to try the seafood appetizers. 
  • Osteria der Belli (very close to Piazza Santa Maria). Run by four brothers from Sardinia. Particularly recommended for its seafood dishes. 
  • 🌍 Pizzeria Nick & Tony, Via di San Francesco a Ripa 21. Open everyday. Great little pizzeria run by 2 friendly Neapolitan brothers. You can get a big slice and a huge ice cold beer for €5. The place gets full of locals. That should tell you everything. get there quite early as in the evening they have a few pizzas left, most popular time is around lunch and after school. Also note that the street Via di San Francesco a Ripa has a strange numbering system - odd and even numbers are on the same side of the street so no 21 will be between 20 and 22. €5 for a pizza. 
  • Planet Kebab, Via Natale del Grande, 17, ☏ +39 06 581 9863. Good Turkish food, from kebab to falafel. This place is very clean, and the guys working there are very friendly. They claim to be open every day of the year. 
  • San Calistus, Via San Francesco a Ripa, 9 (close to Piazza Santa Maria). One of the best pizzerias in all of Rome. 
  • Tony's, Via della Cinque (near Piazza Trilussa (off the Lungotevere, near the Ponte Sisto)). On a beautiful old Roman laneway with indoor and outdoor seating. One of the best lasagne in the city as well as plenty of pasta, meat and seafood options. Risotto alla pescatora (seafood risotto) is delicious; don't ask for the fish if you can't get a quicky mortgage to pay for it. Prices bear no relation whatsoever to the menu. 
  • 🌍 Trattoria de Gli Amici, Piazza Sant'Egidio 6, ☏ +39 06 580 6033. M-Sa 19:30 to 23:30. Very interesting place in the heart of Trastevere district. Run by very kind handicapped people, it has nice cuisine. 
  • 🌍 Vincenzo alla Lungaretta, Via della Lungaretta 170/173, ☏ +39 06 580 0345. Out of the way. Great food and great service and a very reasonable price. 
  • Vivi Bistrot, Via Vitellia, 102 (in the Villa Pamphili park), ☏ +39 06 582 7540. Suitable for children as well. Useful for arranging a picnic in the park. 
  • Enoteca Ferrara, Piazza Trilussa 41. 
  • Vizi Capitali (Deadly Sins), Via della Renella 94. 
  • Sora Lella, Via di Ponte Quattro Capi 16 (on Isola Tiberina), ☏ +39 066861601. closed Su, Tu morning and 2 weeks in August. €44 to 58. 
  • Corsetti 1921, Piazza San Cosimato 27, ☏ +39 065816311. M-Sa. €47 to 72. 
  • Sala di Tè Trasté, Via della Lungaretta 76, ☏ +39 065894430. 17:00-02:00. for tea and cakes 

Drink
  • Baccanale, Via della Lungaretta. A small bar with a great range of drinks, friendly staff and a manic display of cocktail making later on in the evening. There are several TV screens showing major sporting events. Probably the best bar in the world considering its location and stereotypical perfection. The staff are very welcoming to tourists. It is a secret that you'll be lucky to find in the narrow, winding streets of Trastevere. 
  • Garbo, Vicolo di Santa Margherita 1a., ☏ +39 06 581 6700. This is a very small gay bar in an area not catering much to those seeking gay nightlife. The décor is fun and the staff are very nice. Drinks are good, but expensive. As it is small it can get crowded. In spite of this it's best to visit Garbo when you've had enough of Coming Out (Via San Giovanni in Laterano, 8 - by the Colosseum) or the more intense Muccassassina (Via del Comercio, 32) and are seeking a more relaxed and casual come down from your night out. They are open later than most of the other gay bars. 

Sleep


Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

Go next
  • Rome/North — contains the nearby Villa Doria Pamphili inside a large park
Routes through Trastevere
Fiumicino Airport ← South Rome ←  SW  NE  → Aventino-Testaccio → Nomentano
Viterbo ← North Rome ←  N  S  → Aventino-Testaccio → END
Civitavecchia ← South Rome ←  W  E  → Aventino-Testaccio → Modern Center


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