Rwenzori Mountains National Park

Rwenzori National Park is a mountain range in south-west Uganda bordering the Democratic Republic of Congo. It is 120 km (75 mi) long and 48 km (30 mi) wide, covering almost 100,000 ha. Margarita Peak is the summit of Mt Stanley at 5,109m above sea level, and the third highest peak in Africa. The Rwenzori Mountains are the highest mountain range in Africa (Mt Kilimanjaro and Mt Kenya are volcanoes), and home to six of the ten highest peaks on the continent. The region's glaciers, lakes and unusual fauna make it one of Africa's most beautiful alpine areas, according to UNESCO . Climate change is apparent here, by the end of 2006, its ice cap has retreated from 6.4 km² (2.5 sq mi) a century ago, to less than a 1.28 km² (0.5 sq mi).

The Rwenzori Mountains must be walked with a guide and porters, provided by the duopoly of Rwenzori Trekking Services (RTS) and Rwenzori Mountain Services (RMS). They have completely different camps and routes. Both own their camps, but RTS also own its track. RMS is the original operator, locally owned, with their Central Circuit Trail in the middle of the park, mostly running along the bottom of valleys before heading up to the summits. They claim the shortest and easiest route to the summit of Mt Stanley, but it allows less time for acclimatisation, and the camps are definitely showing their age, being built decades ago by the Ugandan Tourism Board.

RTS was established by an Australian in the 1990s, and operate a circuit out of Kyanjuki to the south. They have eight camps and are generally better reviewed online based on crew training, food quality, organisation, and the condition of the camps. RMS operate a circuit from Nyakalengija. RMS also arranges one-day walks from Port Fortal across the ridge to Bundibugye, far less extreme walking, but you supposedly never really get the feeling of crossing the ridge, forested as it is.

Third alternative is the Rwenzori Community Walks , arranged by Backpackers in Kilembe, 12 km west of Kasese. They arrange one and two-days walk at a fraction of the price, also they run a number of community development projects from the profits. Here you can also arrive in the morning and get everything organized, or make a phone call one day in advance. It is easy to arrange transport from Kasese til Kilembe, there are also a few buses. If you drive, the backpackers is in the far west end of Kilembe, across the scary bridge and half a mile more. Safe parking.

The park permit fee is USD34 per person per day. Before booking check whether this is included in your package with RTS or RMS as it varies. This isn't a cheap place to hike, expect to pay at least USD$1,500 for a 7 day trip.

Everything has to be carried into the mountains, the track is too difficult for pack animals. A typical ratio is six porters per client, with each porter carrying 50-litre plastic drums weighing 22-25 kg. As the hike continues, and there is less to carry, porters start to return back along the track. Clients typically have a personal porter who carries up to 15 kg.

Some of the most unusual scenery and fauna to be found anywhere in the world, with Giant Heather trees, everlasting flowers, Giant Lobelias, Giant Groundsel, and many other weird and wonderful plants.

You won’t go hungry. An example of the RTS breakfast is porridge followed by a cooked breakfast of omelette or pancakes. A packed lunch is provided with a sandwich or potato salad, fruit, and fruit juice. Mid-afternoon tea, coffee and hot chocolates with biscuits is available. Dinner could be mushroom soup followed by large cooked meal, usually pasta or rice with vegetables or meat, though no dessert.

Water is taken from the camp streams and boiled to ensure it is safe to drink, though the crew often drink straight from the streams. The water is a somewhat unappealing colour at some camps thanks to tannins in the water, but is fine to drink. The only issue is that boiling water can take some time to cool, so there is a bit of planning required to ensure that your water bottles are cool when needed.

The RTS camps vary a little but follow a similar format, with several four or eight bunk huts, complete with mattresses, a dining area, a kitchen, and separate sleeping quarters for the guides (close to the clients) and porters (usually a little way away). There are decent squat toilets and less decent sit toilets (at some camps), and paper is provided. Your crew can provide hot water for washing, and some of the lower camps have streams or waterfalls just about warm enough to wash in. There are solar powered outside lights at most camps, handy when going outside to use the toilet in the night, less so for enjoying the stars. Some of the camps have solar lights inside the bunk rooms. From Bugata Camp onwards there are stoves though they seemed as likely to smoke you out as to provide significant heat. The camps work on a first come first serve basis in terms of room allocation but you are likely to have a hut to yourself.