Sandakan

Sandakan was the capital of British North Borneo until 1946. The town prospered in the early days due to its port with visiting traders from around the world. Sandakan is an important town to Australian and British World War II history with the infamous Death Marches commencing here in 1945 and ending in Ranau. After the war, the capital was moved to Jesselton (now Kota Kinabalu).

"Sandakan" is derived from the Suluk word "sanda", meaning to pawn, and "kan" being the suffix. So "Sandakan" means the place that was pawned. Who pawned it, and to whom, remains a mystery.

Sandakan has always been a predominantly Chinese town. Unlike most other parts of Sabah, the main Chinese dialect in use among Sandakan's Chinese is Cantonese. However, the most widely spoken Chinese dialect in Sabah, Hakka, is also widely spoken and understood, as is Mandarin. Among locals of different ethnicities, the lingua franca is Malay. Most residents are able to understand and speak at least basic English. Other races, such as the Bajau and Suluk, may be able to speak their own native languages but generally these native tongues are not in common use as a lingua franca within the community.

The city center area, near the jetty, is walkable. Otherwise, the city broadly sprawls out to the west and north up to the airport, and is best to rent a car or use Grab taxis.

• Cruise on the Kinabatangan River. The 560 km Kinabatangan River, the longest in the state, flows pass some of the richest ecosystems on earth, especially just before it meets the sea. The Lower Kinabatangan and Sukau areas are known for its mangrove swamps and flood plains, and is home to its most famous inhabitants, the proboscis monkeys. Up river, you will go past interesting villages where the river is still the main highway. There are also opportunities to view wildlife, including elephants. The best way to do this is through tour companies. (updated Oct 2022)

Fancy "Salted Fish"? Prawn crackers & dried shrimps are tasty and available at the local market.

Dried "Ikan Bilis" is also a locally produced product available at most shops and even at the Airport; available to bring back as gifts.

Sandakan has good and fresh seafood.

• Restoran Ajmeer Located at mile 3 (Hing Lee) and mile 4 (Bandar Prima). Specialize in South Indian food and Malay-styled fried food. Also serve lamb briyani, fish head curry, dosai, idli, vadai and other Indian traditional food. They have been awarded as Cheap and Best Restaurant in town by Ministry of Domestic Trade and Consumer Affairs.
• Sandakan Curry House, Beside Hotel Indah, Mile 4, Bandar Indah. Indian and local food. Excellent Fish Head Curry.
• Habeeb Restaurant, at the third avenue in the town. Serve nice Indian and local food. Taste the Roti Cobra here.
• Imperial Bay View, in the newly developed Harbour Square. Serve nice Chinese food with reasonable prices.
• Ocean King Seafood Restaurant at Pasir Putih was once a famous seafood restaurant. It was closed down in the aftermath of a kidnapping incident in April 2015. The pier-like structure over the water, with indoor and outdoor seating is still there. An alternative are the seafood restaurants at Kg Buli Sim-Sim.
• Restaurant 2020, serves non halal Chinese cuisine, but is considered expensive by local standards. Located at Bandar Kim Fung, Mile 4.
• 🌍 English Tea House, Mile 1 of Jalan Utara, ☏ +60 89-222 544, info@englishteahouse.org. Nice ambience and serve traditional English Food. Serves excellent English high tea in the afternoon. (updated Jul 2018)
• Tomato Sandakan. A casual restaurant serving local and western food. The menu is extensive and prices are very reasonable. Popular with locals and centrally located in town. (updated Oct 2022)
• Several famous hawkers' centre in Sandakan. There are a few hawkers' centres at Sandakan located at Central Market (2nd & 3rd floor), Bandar Kim Fung Market, and Mile Eight Market. They provide you with delicious foods (mostly Chinese & Malay Cuisine) and the prices are very reasonable. After you've finish your foods there, do not forget to buy some kuih (something like small cake) in the market in the same building (market).

About seven kilometres outside of town in a few shoplots, there are a number of entirely or partially Chinese vegetarian restaurants serving mock meat dishes. It's a good place to stop on your way back from the Memorial Park. Also, don't forget the steamboat at the Trig Hill; it's very tasty and the seafood is very big. The price is also very reasonable.

• 🌍 BaLin roofgarden, on the 8th floor of NAK hotel. With panoramic views of the coastline and the entire stretch of town, its one of the best places to catch the Sandakan sunset and festive firework displays. Tropically designed, it has a mixed assortment of seating and chill-out corners; making the Sandakan-night sky your personal kaleidoscope. An innovative dining experience to follow. Try down along the waterfront as this area is being developed with new places opening all the time. (updated Aug 2011)

• 🌍 Hotel City View (In the town center.). The associated Hawaii Restaurant has a huge choice of excellent meals for RM5, popular with locals. RM 60 single with A/C. (updated Oct 2022)
• 🌍 Hotel London, Lot D1-D2,Block 10, Jalan Empat (Next to Masjid Jamek Mosque), ☏ +60 89-216366, +60 89-216371, hlondon.sdk@gmail.com. In the heart of the city is a great deal for budget traveller. The room is clean and beautiful as it is newly renovated though some rooms have ventilation problems giving damp bathrooms after showers. Free WiFi. Simple breakfast (toast and instant coffee) is served in the pleasant rooftop garden. Other facilities include tour arrangement, internet access corner, all rooms are ensuite and have satellite channel (DVD player upon request) and the hotel has a backup generator in case of power outage. RM 55-75. (updated Jun 2011)
• Hotel Seafront, Block 43, Fourth Land, Leila Rd, ☏ +60 89 222 233. 5 min walk to the water front. This hotel offers modern, clean and comfortable rooms suitable for the independent traveller wanting something mid-range. Internet is available in the foyer. Bookings can made via the website. Note that the hotel is 4 storeys and there is no lift. From RM 59 single, RM 69 double. (updated Jun 2011)
• 🌍 NAK Hotel (in Town Centre; behind HSBC and Standard Chartered banks, Malaysian Airlines office, central market & bus station), ☏ +60 89 272988. The oldest, purpose-built hotel in Sandakan. Family run since 1966. A mix of history and the contemporary. Some rooms are thematically designed, with views of the sea. Others are not. From RM 118. (updated Jun 2011)
• 🌍 PAT'S Bed and Breakfast Lodge, Mile 1½ North Road (Between the bus station and city center.), ☏ +60 19 5843895. Manageress: Patricia Pascua. Family home atmosphere. Comfortable living room and nice balcony. Kitchen for your own use. Laundry service available. Clean dormitory rooms with fan or A/C RM 29. (updated Oct 2022)
• 🌍 Sandakan Backpackers Hostel (On Harbor Square near Gentingmas Mall, near the KFC.). Backpacker guesthouse with harbor views. Run by the owner, Zaina, who doubles as a travel agent. Small dorm rooms RM 25, private rooms RM 55, laundry RM 15/kg. (updated Oct 2022)
• 🌍 Borneo Seaview & Budget Hotel, Lot 126, 1st Floor, Harbour Square 14 (near the harbour opposite the Central Market), ☏ +60 89-229 601, toll-free: +60 111669 9601, borneoSeaview_hotel@gmail.com. Clean, quiet and safe. RM 20 upwards. 
• 🌍 Tai Lee Hotel, Block A, Bandar Kim Fung, Mile 4 (in the middle of Sandakan), ☏ +60 89-210220. It is completed with WiFi, aircon and two channels of Astro (including Astro Sports, and Wah Lai Toi). Besides, there are shoplots including restaurants, pharmacies, and supermarkets. Three different room types. RM 53 to RM 75. (updated Mar 2012)
• 🌍 WinHo Lodge, Off Lebuh Dua, Town centre. Comfortable beds and decent sized rooms for all budgets including dorms. Double rooms, come with A/C, free wifi, ensuite and TV. From RM 55. (updated Mar 2012)
• Swiss-Inn Waterfront Sandakan, HS12, Sandakan Harbour Square, ☏ +60 89 240 888, fax: +60 89 214 888. On the waterfront esplanade. 138 trendy and compact rooms, all with A/C, free wifi and LCD TV. From RM 140. (updated Jun 2011)

Turtle eggs, while illegal, are obtainable at the local wet market at a very cheap rate. Bringing it out, or even buying it, when found by the custom officers or wildlife officers can really ruin your trip as they will press charges again you. Do not try! Do not get caught with turtle eggs in your luggage as police and customs officials will take a very serious view of this.

Due to the ongoing kidnapping threats and actions posed by pirates from the southern Philippines, there is a large military/police presence in Eastern Sabah coastal waters and a night time curfew on all vessels. (October 2017)

• Sepilok — The Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre is where orangutans rescued from plantations and also from being kept as pets are re-adapted to living in the jungle. Most popular are the twice daily feeding times when the orangutans come out from the jungle. Besides, there are surprisingly good Botanical Gardens near Sepilok, where one can learn about Palm Oil and the rain forest, enjoy walks and boats.
• Turtle Islands Park — Three islands in the Sulu Sea where you can see turtles laying eggs and also turtle conservation at work. You can only stay on Selingan Island. Overnight stays on Turtle Island are now offered at RM 630 per person including flights and transfers from K.K. (2017).