Santa Cruz (Galapagos)

European and American interest in the Galapagos was stimulated by the publication of William Beebe's book Galapagos: World's End in 1924. This book inspired the beginnings of the eco-tourism that today dominates the Galapagos economy. Tourism began, however, as only a trickle (one of those early tourists was U.S. President Franklin D. Roosevelt, who visited the islands in 1938). There was also a trickle of Europeans immigration to the Galapagos around this time. The largest group was 60 Norwegians, persuaded to settle on Floreana in 1927 by several young journalists and a whaler who had written about the Galapagos. Floreana turned out to be anything but the paradise the promoters promised, as the colonists came to realize after the promoters left. Most managed to survive for a difficult year or two there. Some of the survivors eventually returned to Norway, others moved to the settlement on San Cristobal, and others settled on Academy Bay on Santa Cruz, joining another group of Norwegians that had set up a cannery there the year before. Within a few years, most of the colonists left as well, but a few remained. A few years later, other Norwegians came to Santa Cruz, as well as a sprinkling of others from Europe, America, and Ecuador, all seeking a simpler life. Among them were the four Angermeyer brothers from Germany, who settled on Santa Cruz in 1935. Their descendants still live there and operate touring yachts and a hotel in Puerto Ayora.

Access to Santa Cruz is almost exclusively by air, with planes landing at the 🌍 Seymour Airport on the small nearby island of Baltra.

Inter-island flights are available from EMETEBE Airlines, which operates nine seater aircraft to transport passengers and their luggage from San Cristobal Airport to Isabela, Santa Cruz and Baltra islands. Bookings can be done directly through EMETEBE's website or a travel agent.

As of Nov 2022, upon exiting the Baltra airport, board a bus to the Itabaca channel for US$5 (you buy the ticket in a booth in front of the bus stop). Proceed on a ferry/a smaller water taxi for $1. At the other end of the canal you can ride the bus into town ($5, paid to the bus driver) or take a taxi ($25).

For the reverse direction, buses from Puerto Ayora to the channel only leave in the morning (Every 30mins between 7am and 9am). Check locally at the time (at least a day before your flight). If you have an afternoon flight, you'll have to take a private taxi ($25), shared taxi ($9pp) or find alternative transport.

There is public transportation (operated by Ferry Galapagos) via local speed boats to both San Cristobal and Puerto Villamil on Isabela daily. They leave at 7am and 3pm, the ride takes 2 hours and tends to be rough and noisy ($35.00, Nov 2022). If you suspect you may get seasick then you likely will, so consider taking a seasickness pill. Also the four seats at the end of the boat are less bumpy than the side ones. Some of these boats can have a bathroom, but there are no other services available on them and passengers should carry their own water or snacks.

Many people arrive annually by private yacht as part of a trip around the world. Puerto Ayora and Puerto Baquerizo Moreno are the main ports of entry in the Galapagos - however most sail boats will enter at Puerto Villamil. Boating in the Galapagos is restricted. A non-Ecuadorian vessel arriving from a non-Ecuadorian port may stay up to 20 days in a single port. Arrival fees are approximately $130 plus $3 per tonne for the vessel, plus $110 per person for the Park's pass and island immigration. National Immigration and Customs are about another $50.

A permit to visit the five ports in the Galapagos (Puerto Ayora, Baltra, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, Puerto Villamil and Puerto Velasco Ibarra) can be obtained by applying in advance with a ship's agent. These permits cost $300 for the vessel, in addition to the fees above. This permit is the only way for an Ecuadorian vessel or a vessel arriving from mainland Ecuador to visit the Galapagos. Licensed Yacht Handling Agencies can assist private vessels secure cruise permits.

• 🌍 Charles Darwin Research Station, Avenida Charles Darwin (Located at the end of the road on the eastern edge of town). M-Sa 6AM to 6PM. 1.5 km west of the centre of Puerto Ayora. It has a turtle breeding area and interesting information about the conservation of the unique biosphere of the Galapagos, and extensive exhibits on the natural history of the islands. The breeding programs at the station allow visitors to see many iguanas, tortoises, and other animals in various stages of their lives. Until his death in 2012 the station was also home to Lonesome George, a tortoise found on Pinta island who was believed to be the last of his sub-species. George became a symbol of the park and for many years was known as the rarest creature in the world. Visiting the research station is free but you can also take a guided tour of some parts of it for $10 (Nov 2022), you will find guides waiting for you next to the road there. 
• 🌍 Tortuga Bay. 6AM-6:30PM daily. A 2.5-km long trail from Puerto Ayora leads to this beautiful beach with a strong undertow. If you walk about 1 km further down the beach you reach a calm bay known as Playa Mansa. The visibility in the water isn't perfect, but close to the mangroves white tip sharks can be seen. Marine turtles, pelicans, and blue heron sightings are also common. Kayaks can be rented at the end of Playa Mansa for $10 (Nov 2022) per hour per person. Visitors must register at a 🌍 gate at the beginning of the trail. Free. (updated Nov 2022)
• 🌍 Punta Estrada beach/German beach. A small beach good for snorkeling especially with high tide. Take a watertaxi ($1.00, Nov 2022) from Puerto Ayora to the Hotel Finch dock. Free. 
• 🌍 Las Grietas. A spectacular canyon filled with crystal clear water. Good for snorkeling. A local swimming hole made from a large crevice between volcanic rock. The water is clear and emerald green. You can snorkel here but there isn't much to see besides a few large fish, probably as the water is a mix of the sea water and filtered rain water. Taking a snorkel is worth it as there is a series of tunnels created by fallen rocks. Getting here. From Puerto Ayora pier, hail over a yellow water taxi and tell them you want to go to Las Grietas. $1.00 (Nov 2022) will get you a one way trip and drop you off at Angermeyer Waterfront Inn. Follow the well marked (green and white posts) path through the iguanas, German's beach, the salt pans, and the lava rock path to Las Grietas. Along the path is a detour to the left. Well worth the short walk to look down at the crystal clear water and the length of Las Grietas. Closes at 5pm. Getting away. Back at the pier hail over a water taxi that's waiting not to far from the pier.
  
  Unfortunately these days you can only do it as a guided tour, there are guides waiting at the entrance to the Las Grietas area. Having said that you may need to wait until at least a few people arrive, it shouldn't be longer than 30-40 minutes though. There is a bar close to the entrance where you can wait for the next tour, it has a nice view over the salt lake. $10. 
• 🌍 Laguna Las Ninfas. A pretty lagune with a footpath. Free. 

• Lava Tunnels - the longest (up to 3 km) are on private property off farms near Bellavista or Santa Rosa; count on $5 entry fee. There is a small one 2.5 km out of Puerto Ayora on the road to Baltra which can be visited for free.
• 🌍 Los Gemelos. Two sunken volcanic craters sit on a high point of the island in a cloud forest. They are 7 km from Santa Rosa on the road to Baltra. The craters are close to the road. Vermillion flycatchers can be seen here, as well as the woodpecker finch and short eared owls. There's short circuit walk. 
• 🌍 El Chato Tortise Reserve. Private tortoise reserve 3 km from Santa Rosa where gigantic tortoises can be seen in the wild. With two lava tunnels. $5 entry (Nov 2018). Free Galapagos and lemongrass tea. 
• 🌍 Garrapatero Beach. A 35 minute drive from Puerto Ayora, then a 20 minute trail leads to this beach consisting of black lava, white sand and a turquoise sea. No guide is necessary, and swimming and snorkeling are permitted. Wildlife includes: blue-footed boobies, pelicans, crabs, and marine iguanas. Behind the beach are mangroves and a small lagoon where Bahama ducks and pink flamingos can be seen. Camping is possible with a pre-arranged permit from the National Park office in Puerto Ayora, but be prepared for many mosquitos after dark. 

Diving in the Galapagos isn't cheap - count on paying at least $150 per dive.

• 🌍 Academy Bay Diving, Av Charles Darwin (Across from the volleyball courts), ☏ +593 85859405, galapgs_academybay@hotmail.com. 7AM-8PM. Professional and experienced guides, excellent equipment and local knowledge. Offers diving trips, day tours, cruises and more. 
• Scuba Iguana, Av Charles Darwin (close to the entrance of the Darwin station), ☏ +593 5 2526497, info@scubaiguana.com. One of the first dive companies in the Galapagos. Scuba Iguana has their own boats and dock. 
• Sub Aqua, Av Charles Darwin, ☏ +593 5 2526350, sub_aqua@accessinter.net. Located across from the fishermans dock, Sub Aqua offers daily dive trips. 
• Macarron, Av Charles Darwin, ☏ +593 5 2524080, info@macarronscubadiver.com.ec. One of the most professional and experienced divers in Galapagos, Macarron's equipment is high quality and he often leads the daily dive trips himself.