Sardinia

Sardinia is the only region in Italy of Hercynian origin, and the southwest of the island is even older (Cambrian). The mineral riches of Sardinia are the consequence of heavy hydrothermalism during the Permo-Triassic. As in the rest of Hercynian Europe, erosion has taken its toll since the orogeny and has reduced elevations considerably. 30 million years ago, the Sardinia-Corsica block started to detach from mainland Spain and tilted toward its present position. The island is aseismic and non-volcanic.

Sardinia is the second largest island in the Mediterranean Sea (24,090 km² [9300 sq mi]); only Sicily is larger. In addition to spectacular beaches, the island has many beautiful mountain vistas.

The island's interior is dominated by the Gennargentu Range, culminating at the highest elevation in Sardinia at the summit of Punta La Marmora, 1834 m [6017 ft]. This range also includes Monte Limbara, Monte di Ala', and Monte Rasu (all below 1500 m [4900 ft]). An independently formed range of hills, the Sulcis-Iglesiente, stretch across southwestern Sardinia. The highest hill peaks at 1236 m [4055 ft], and this range once gave life to large mining operations.

Plains are quite rare and generally small with two exceptions. The Campidano Plain is the largest flat area and reaches from Oristano to Cagliari, separating the Gennargentu from the Sulcis-Iglesiente. The second largest is Nurra Plain in the northwest between Sassari, Alghero, and Porto Torres, and the Nurra's erstwhile forests and mines have mostly made way for today's pastures.

Other notable features are the former marshes of Sulcis and Cagliari. Sulcis was a marshy area where malaria was still present in the 1940s but has been eradicated. Cagliari's outer neighborhoods sit upon flat and boggy land, and harvesting salt is a major industry there.

Coasts are generally rocky with many cliffs, especially along the eastern half. Despite the precipitous coastline, there are many large beaches all around the island. These exist between Logudoro and Gallura in the north; Teulada and Pula in the south; and at the tip of Sulcis-Iglesiente in the southwest. Apart from the Strait of Bonifacio (famed for its often rough sea) which divides Corsica from Sardinia, the surrounding sea is quite deep at short distances from the shore.

The population is small (a little more than 1,650,000 inhabitants in 2010) and heavily concentrated in Cagliari (one third of the total population) and Sassari (one fifth). Olbia is the only other town with a population exceeding 50,000 inhabitants. Other centres include Alghero, Nuoro, Santa Teresa Gallura, Oristano, Carbonia and Iglesias. Sardinia, along with the Valle d'Aosta region at the French border, has the lowest population density in Italy.

Sardinia enjoys for the most part a Mediterranean climate. It is however heavily influenced by the vicinity of the Gulf of Genoa (barometric low) and the relative proximity of the Atlantic Ocean. Sardinia being relatively large and hilly, weather is not uniform; in particular the east is drier, but paradoxically it suffers the worst rainstorms: in Autumn 2009, it rained more than 200 mm (8 inches) in a single day in Siniscola. The western coast is rainy even for modest elevations (for instance Iglesias, elevation 200 m, average annual precipitation 815 mm against 750 mm for London).

Summer is dry with very hot weather; however, contrary to the islands of Greece for instance, there is more vegetation providing shade. Autumn is typically warm (with averages of 20 °C [68 °F] and up for highs till late-November), but is subject to heavy rainstorms in some areas. Winter is mild on plains (cold spells being however not unheard of) but cool at higher elevations; snow is generally limited to the Gennargentu range. Spring is warm and can be rainy, but not as autumn. Some locations in the island can be very windy, especially from September to April (northwest winds locally called Maestrale); southeast winds (Scirocco) are frequent during summer and bring invariably hot weather.

There are several must-see sites for the archeology-minded tourist. Sardinia is home to the ancient and somewhat mysterious Nuragic civilization (ca 1500 BC) whose cylindrical towers (called Nuraghes, sing. Nuraghe) dot the Sardinian landscape. One of the largest of these Nuraghe is near Olbia and the Costa Smeralda. Other fortified villages can still be found, a great example of which is Barumini (Medio Campidano province). The Phoenicians arrived around 1000 BC and founded Cagliari (Karalis, ca 800 BC), Tharros (near Oristano), and Nora (near Pula, Cagliari province), and others. Sardinia was contested during the First Punic War between Carthage and Rome, but went eventually to the latter. Rome had often trouble dealing with the rebellious locals, but managed quite a large income out of grain and metal mining.

With the fall of the Roman Empire, heavy raiding of the coastal areas by Barbary pirates forced the population to the hinterland; Sassari for instance was founded by refugees from Porto Torres. The four Kingdoms ("Judgedoms" of Calaris [Cagliari], Arbaree [Arborea, Oristano], Torres [Sassari] and Gallura [Olbia-Tempio Pausania]) sprang forth during the Middle Ages, but were colonized (except for the Kingdom of Arborea) by Pisa and Genoa. The Pisans in particular, through the famous family of the Conte Ugolino della Gherardesca of Dante's Inferno, controlled the southernmost part of the island between 1200 and 1350. The Gherardesca family got a large income from the silver mines near Iglesias, which they themselves founded. The Aragonese crown (now part of the modern Spanish crown) began staking claims in the 1320s and proceeded to seize all of Sardinia, save Castelsardo, by the early 1400s. Until the early 1700s, the island was an integral part of the Spanish crown.

When Sardinia was ceded to the House of Savoy in 1720, the constitution of the Sardinia-Piedmont realm became the starting point for the unification of the Italian peninsula; however, Sardinia had separate (and generally worse) rights than those given to mainlanders until 1847, when it gained the same status as the mainland but paid the price of losing what little autonomy the island enjoyed. Following the French Revolution, the newly minted French Republic attempted to invade the island in 1793 but was repelled. Napoleon was there as an officer in one of the major invasion attempts. Despite French attempts to dominate the island, the Piedmontese Savoys manage to retain control and even used the island as a refuge when Napoleon swept through their homeland. After the Savoys got back to the mainland, Sardinia was once again left to its own devices, except for the exploitation of its ancient woodland and its large mineral resources. In the early 1900s, the fascist government carried out several works, particularly the reduction of marshy areas and the foundation of mainland colonies, like Fertilia and Arborea. In 1948 the unique socio-political context of the island was recognized by Rome, and Sardinia was granted a limited degree of administrative autonomy that retains to the present day. With the end of the exploitation of the mines, but with the fast growth of the tourist industry (especially in the Costa Smeralda ["Emerald Coast"] area), Sardinia is slowly converting itself into a popular tourist destination even though traditional stock-herding, especially of sheep, is still a frequent sight.

Three Sardinian commercial airports are close to the cities of Cagliari, Olbia, and Alghero.

• Aeroporto di Cagliari-Elmas (Cagliari Airport) (CAG ^IATA) is the busiest in Sardinia. Cagliari is served directly by domestic and international flights, while well-connected Milan-Linate and Rome-Fiumicino airports can also serve as intermediate stops to Cagliari.
• Aeroporto di Olbia-Costa Smeralda (Olbia Airport) (OLB ^IATA) is the second busiest airport in Sardinia and the 17th in Italy; it is the gateway to the Costa Smeralda.
• Aeroporto di Alghero (Alghero Airport) (AHO ^IATA) is the third busiest in Sardinia. It is 10.5 km northwest of Alghero.

There are ferry services to Cagliari (south coast), Porto Torres (north coast), and Olbia, Golfo Aranci and Arbatax (east coast).

Have a look at Ferriesonline or iTraghetti, or the state-owned ferry service Tirrenia (year-round service) and the private companies Moby Lines, Sardinia Ferries, Grimaldi, Snav.

Daily ferries link northern Sardinia with Corsica (it is possible to take a day trip to Bonifacio, Corsica) from Santa Teresa Gallura.

Regular, cheap buses between the main centres: Cagliari, Sassari, Olbia, Santa Teresa Gallura, Alghero, Nuoro, etc. You may end up changing buses (or trains) in, for example, Macomér. Less frequent buses, but worth persevering for the smaller villages.

ARST is the main regional bus service provider on the island (check with their schedules, also mobile site). They also run urban buses in some location.

Tickets can be bought at the ARST stations, from the various sales outlets, ticket vending machines, or, if you have an Italian number, by a mobile phone. Tickets are also sold on board but with a surcharge (usually €1).

Trenitalia runs regular trains on the standard gauge tracks between Sassari, Olbia and Cagliari.

ARST also operates a few railway services on the narrow gauge lines: Alghero-Sassari-Sorso, Macomer-Nuoro, Monserrato (Cagliari)-Mandas-Isili. These trains can be not that fast, frequent and convenient. For example, the terminus in Alghero is at the quite of the edge of the centre. So, regional buses could be an alternative.

In season, there are irregular tourist train services -- trenino verde -- scheduled on otherwise unused lines. For example, there's a small train that travels twice a week on the route Sassari-Tempio-Palau and back.

It is possible to get around Sardinia by bus and train, but if you can, hire a car. It is well worth the expense, and it will allow you to visit some of the more remote and enchanting places and areas. You may find many companies offering car hire like Hertz and Avis or Only Sardinia Autonoleggio.

Consult the article on Italy for general information about speed limits, urban areas, police forces, etc. What follows is specific to Sardinia.

There are no toll highways in the island, despite Google Maps stating otherwise. The major roads are Porto Torres-Sassari-Oristano-Cagliari (Strada Statale [State Road] 131, European denomination E25) and its bifurcation to Nuoro (SS131 d.c.n.), Iglesias-Cagliari (SS130) [the SS130 and SS131 are the only fully 2 x 2-lane roads in Sardinia], the SS125 (Cagliari-Villasimius), SS126 (Sant'Antioco-Carbonia-Iglesias-Guspini-Terralba), SS127 (Olbia-Tempio Pausania-Sassari), SS128 (East-Central Sardinia), SS129 (Orosei-Nuoro-Macomer), SS195 (Cagliari-SS126 through Pula), and the SS291 (Sassari-Alghero). Many other roads are also of great interest for the tourist, such as the SS133 (Tempio Pausania-Palau) or the Chia-Teulada 'panoramica'.

Many roads are narrow and wind through hilly terrain; be careful and do not hesitate to use your car horn to signal your presence: because of the light traffic, oncoming drivers may not expect to encounter other vehicles. Remember that locals know their roads: they can drive faster than you because of that, do not try to race with them! Beware also of farm animals (sheep, goat, cows, pigs) crossing roads in rural areas.

The condition of the major roads is largely good. There are local unpaved roads of touristic interest; these can be in any state, especially after heavy rains, so it is better to go there with a 4-wheel drive car.

Traffic can become heavy during summer in and around touristic areas, in particular on the SS 125, 126, 127, 195, 291.

A navigation app is a necessity because road signs are somewhat lacking, especially on secondary roads. Petrol stations are ubiquitous and usually have automated pumps open 24 hours. In the morning and afternoon, attendants may be available, whose services add an extra 20 cents per litre. Their pumps are clearly indicated.

Many villages have installed speed traps and automated cameras at the entrances: these are almost always signalled and fines for speeding are generally heavy. Otherwise, Italians rarely comply with posted speed limits. If you stick to the apeed limit in the right lane, they will happily merge around you. Quite often, you will drive through villages with no footpaths, so drive with caution.

Beware of the way locals drive: racing along the narrow and bendy roads in the hills. Also beware of high winds; gusts in excess of 100 km/h (60 mph) are common from September to April.

Sailing is one of the best ways to see Sardinia. Most charters offer many options from bareboat to crewed and cabin charter, with various types of boats being available.

At many places it is possible to rent a bike quite cheaply, for as little as €9 per 24 hours. Compared to the scarce local bus connections a bicycle provides great flexibility for local exploration. With high quality roads and great scenery the bike is very pleasant to ride.

Sailing has become increasingly popular, in particular in the Costa Smeralda area; the first Italian challenge in the America's Cup hailed from there. There are many ports everywhere, and some places are reachable only by boat. Do not miss this opportunity if you like to sail.

While not many, the islands are generally of interest; check in particular the Asinara National Park (famous for its Albino Donkeys) and the Maddalena archipelago in the north, the islands of Sant'Antioco (actually connected to the mainland since Roman times) and San Pietro (a community of Genoese fishermen) in the south.

The north and northeast (from Stintino to Budoni) have many beautiful beaches. The Eastern coast is also very interesting: Cala Gonone, Arbatax, Muravera and Villasimius. The deep south (Chia, Pula) is quickly growing as a major tourist attraction. The western coast is of a very different character; large beaches some kilometres long can be found (Porto Pino, Marina di Gonnesa, Marina di Arbus). Of note is Piscinas (Marina di Arbus) with its 60 m (200 ft) tall sand dunes. Finally, the Alghero area is renowned for its underwater caves and grottoes and attracts many scuba divers.

While Sardinia's highest elevation does not reach 2,000 m (6,600 ft), do not be fooled: the terrain is steep, snow falls in winter, and there are 4 ski resorts in the Gennargentu area. Hills are everywhere in Sardinia, from the northeastern Monte Limbara Range to the Iglesiente area in the southwest, even on the outskirts of Cagliari. The rainiest areas are quite lush with Mediterranean vegetation. Another advantage is that people (including Sardinians) generally fill the beaches and leave the rest nearly deserted. A popular destination for mountain climbers is the Domusnovas area (close to Iglesias), with its nice vertical walls of limestone. Large caves are accessible (Dorgali, Oliena, Santadi, Domusnovas, Fluminimaggiore, Alghero). There are many hiking trails (though not always well-signalled) for beginners and veterans alike.

Sardinia has few monuments but many are well worth visiting. Check-in particular Cagliari (Sard. Casteddu, Castle), Oristano, Sassari, Alghero, Olbia, and Nuoro. Nuraghi and Domus de janas (Sard. for witch houses) are found in many places, in particular in Barumini (Su Nuraxi, in the UNESCO World Heritage list since 1997) and around Alghero. Tharros, Nora, and Monte Sirai (just off Carbonia) are fine examples of the Phoenician/Carthaginian presence. Roman remains are also found in Sardinia, among which Nora, the Sant'Antioco bridge or the amphitheatre in Cagliari; the Antas site in Fluminimaggiore is also of interest, even if the present temple is a reconstruction of the original.

Pisans have left important traces in the South (Cagliari, Iglesias) and the well-preserved Castello di Acquafredda (It. for cold water castle) near Siliqua is worth a visit, as is the backcountry. Bosa is of interest for its medieval urbanism; Burgos (Castle of Goceano) is also worth a visit. Some fine churches are found on the island, from the early Christian times to the Baroque period, in the aforementioned cities but also in Porto Torres and Iglesias (Spanish for church). Examples of industrial architecture can also be found in and around Cagliari, in Porto Torres, and in the Sulcis-Iglesiente area, where organized tours can be booked to visit mines, for instance, the Buggerru mines with galleries just above the sea. Finally, several museums dedicated to Sardinia are of interest; the Museo Sardo di antropologia ed etnografia and the Museo Archeologico Nazionale in Cagliari, and the Museo etnografico sardo in Nuoro are important starting places.

Sardinia has strong traditions which are expressed also through costumes and celebrations. Quite often, even small centres have local celebrations where people dress in rich traditional costumes. However, it is simpler to go to the major venues as there is a considerable afflux from all over Sardinia. These include:

• Sant'Efisio (Cagliari, 1 May, actually lasts several days)
• Sagra del Redentore (Nuoro, last Sunday of August)
• Cavalcata sarda (Sassari, penultimate Sunday of May, horse parade and races)
• Faradda di li candareri (Sassari, 14 August)
• Sa Sartiglia (Oristano, Carnival period, horse races)
• S'ardia (Sedilo, 6 July, horse races) and everywhere the celebrations during Carnival and the Holy Week.

Beer is the most common alcoholic drink among Sardinians; in fact, Sardinia has the highest consumption of beer in all of Italy.

• 🌍 Birra Ichnusa, Assèmini, Cagliari. The main local beer brand, however many artisan beers are produced, some of them even awarded at the international level. (updated Dec 2018)

• Cannonau. A strong red wine from the Sardinian variety of Garnacha (Grenache) grapes. (updated Dec 2018)
• Monica di Sardegna. A lighter, more accessible red wine. (updated Dec 2018)
• Vernaccia di Oristano. This include both dry and sweet wines as well as fortified "sherry-like" wines aged in a solera. (updated Dec 2018)
• Vermentino di Sardegna. A light wine with a strong minerally taste. (updated Dec 2018)

• Mirto. An alcoholic drink that's a local speciality. It is made of wine spirit flavoured with the berries of mirto, a local shrub. (updated Dec 2018)
• Fil'e ferru. Another alcoholic local speciality. Its name means "iron wire" because in the 19th century it was clandestinely distilled and hidden in small holes covered with soil. Only a small iron wire came out from the soil, to remember where the bottles were hidden. The original name in Sardinian language is abbardente, that means "blazing water" (Fil'e ferru is in Sardinian too, but it's used more by non Sardinian-speakers). (updated Dec 2018)
• Limoncello. A sweet drink made with lemon rind, usually best served chilled. It is widely produced in locally. (updated Dec 2018)