Shanghai/Zhujiajiao

The settlement of Zhujiajiao dates back longer, but by the Yuan Dynasty (1271–1368) it was well established as an important marketplace for the surrounding countryside. It was granted township status during the reign of the Emperor Wanli of the Ming Dynasty. It's at the intersection of a number of local rivers, and it prospered through trade in rice and cloth, transported on boats from the surrounding countryside right to the houses of the Zhujiajiao merchants.

The ancient district of Zhujiajiao occupies about 3 km², and exploring it thoroughly will take you about two hours - more if you reserve some time for some of the numerous teahouses, coffeehouses, bars and restaurants. While a lot of streets have become very touristy, you may also find alleys which are still the home of local residents - mainly elderly people and even people of a slightly bohemian streak. Doors are often left ajar, and little distinction is made between the house and the alleyway as people go about their day.

Having been a pretty sleepy town in the past, Zhujiajiao is now in a new era. The tourists that stroll along the waterways are the main source of income for the inhabitants. Some young bohemian people from Shanghai and elsewhere have settled in Zhujiajiao as well. The ancient quarter sports a number of artsy bars, cafes and shops that make for great hideouts if you tire of the pushier merchants in the main streets.

The town is arguably the best preserved of the river towns in Shanghai's vicinity, and the main charm of the town lies in strolling its streets. There are however quite a few specific sights. Many of them require you to have a ticket, which can be bought at the main entrance and includes a map and guide pamphlet. About a kilometer long, Bei Dajie (North Street) is the main thoroughfare in old Zhujiajiao. Lined with old buildings, some many hundred years old, it makes for a nice stroll, from the Fansheng bridge in the northeast to the Handicraft Exhibition Hall and the Tongtianhe Pharmacy in the southwest.

There is a nominal ¥10 charge to even enter the old district, but you many not be asked to pay it - there are many ways into the old district, most of them without any formal entrance.

Different plans can be bought that include different number of attractions depending on how long you want to stay. The prices range from ¥35 (4 attractions) to ¥80 (12 attractions plus the boat ride). However, monitor your time closely as most of the buildings close at 16:30 sharp, and the tickets are only valid for a day.

• 🌍 Qing Dynasty Post Office (on the southwestern end of Xihu Street, which begins at the south end of Caohe Street). It's said to be the best preserved Qing post office in China, and among its exhibits you'll find antique post cards of old Shanghai and letters written on bamboo. 
• 🌍 The Yuanjin Monastery (on the northern end of Caohe Street). Buddhist monastery with three main buildings and separate living quarters. 
• 🌍 The Town God Temple (Chenghuangmiao) (located on the middle of Caohe Street, in front of the Qijin bridge). A Daoist temple dedicated to Guanyin, the goddess of mercy. Authentic worship still goes on, but like most temples in tourist destinations, it's quite exploited. 
• 🌍 Kezhi Yuan (Kezhi Garden). Garden at the northern edge of the old district, on Xijing Street. The name Kezhi is made up of the characters 课 (kè) which means "to learn" and 植 (zhí) which means "to plant". It consists of three parts - the main hall, the garden and an artificial hill area. The most iconic landmark of the gardens is a five story building with a pavilion on its roof - the tallest structure in old Zhujiajiao. The history of this garden dates back to 1912, when Ma Wenqing built it, drawing inspiration from a mixture of Chinese and European influences. The construction took 15 years and 300 000 silver taels, equivalent to 12000 kg of silver. The wars and revolutions of the following half century brought much destruction to the garden and its buildings, and in 1956 additional old structures where torn down to make room for teaching buildings of the Zhujiajiao Middle School that had come to occupy Kezhi Gardens. It was not until 1986 that the garden became a protected structure and renovation to return it to its original style was started, and in 2003 the middle school was relocated. (updated Jun 2018)

There are countless little shops in Zhujiajiao, everything from the usual T-shirt salesmen to handmade textiles and antique carved wood sculptures and furniture.

• Clothes 2 (漕河街41号), No. 41 Caohe Street. all hade-woven traditional local cloth and original designed clothes. nice shop. 
• Chinese instruments (漕河街36号), No. 36 Caohe Street. This very stylish shop specializes in showcasing the ancient Qin instrument and other aspects of Chinese culture. They sell various instruments, but also traditional teapots and teacups. 
• Jazz Age (漕河街58号), No. 58 Caohe Street. A bit of a local celebrity, this jazz music shop has been here for quite some time. The owner is an eccentric bald jazz-fan. Half cafe, half music shop, he also serves some nice coffee and tea in cozy surroundings. 
• Porcelain Shop (北大街36号), No. 36 Beida Street. A two-level store dealing in handmade traditional Chinese porcelain wares. 
• Cloth of the Centuries (东湖街21号), No. 21 Donghu Street. Self-designed and handmade clothing and other textile items, all made in-shop by the talented owner. Mainly modern style clothing using traditional Chinese materials and influences with some very nice patterns and embroideries. She also sells handmade notebooks, jewelry and other items. 
• Cloth and Dragons shop (东井街106号), No. 106 Donghu Street. A shop split in two sections - one selling handmade dragons and monsters made out of twine and pearls, and the other selling handmade textile wares and jewelry. 
• Wooden Puzzles. They are sold at a shop on the left bank of the canal as you enter. Many of the puzzles with interlocking solid parts were devised by the ancient carpenter-puzzlemaker Luban (c. 500BC). Has a wide diversity of puzzles, mostly made in the famous Yunhe region in Zheijiang. 

• You will find a cool restaurant next to the bar Zher close to the north entrance on No. 120 Xijing Street. They have two spacious rooms furnished old wooden chairs and tables in rustic old stone house. It's owned by a photographer, who showcases some of his work on the walls of the dining room. Compared to other places the menu is refreshingly selective. They also serve coffee, tea and cold beer. Price range is usually ¥40-60 per person.

• Zher, 西井街118号 (No. 118 Xijing Street). Run by a friendly punk called Frank, this beerhouse is a local favourite. The Chinese name 这儿 simply means "here". Drinks and snacks are served outside under the willow trees during the spring and summer months. During the colder parts of the year it's better to sit in his newly renovated house, with psychedelically painted floors, comfortable armchairs and a film projector. The music follows the preference of the owner, who is the vocalist of a Shanghai punk band. It's a great place to hear some elusive underground Chinese punk, ska and hardcore. He has a nice fussball table and provides Hookahs and flavored tobacco, and also sells some kitschy communist-era souvenirs and handmade jewelry. 

• uma hostel (窝), No. 4 Lane 103 Xijing St. (西井街103弄4号), ☏ +86 21-59240487, +86 18918082961. The only mini-hostel in the town, homey and cozy. Good for backpackers. 
• Cao Tang (草堂), 31 Dongjing St. (东井街31号), ☏ +86 15221361365. A guesthouse in a historical Qing Dynasty building. They have very comfortable and beautifully decorated double rooms, a room with an antique bed and a dorm room. The bar has lots of comfortable sofas to lounge in, good coffee and a nice selection of beer including Xinjiang Black Beer. 

There is a hostel on Xijing street, ask for directions. Zher would be a good place, as the owner speaks some English. The owner of HEIMa bar also rents out an apartment for short term stay.