Sheki

Throughout its history, Shaki was swung between independence and foreign domination. In its earlier centuries, Shaki was the seat of an Albanian kingdom, which was invaded repeatedly by the Persian, Roman, Parthian, Arab, Mongolian, and other empires. In the past millennium, Shaki fell under the influence and often the direct rule of Persia or the Shirvanshahs of Baku. Shortly after the 18th century collapse of the Safavid Empire, Shaki became the capital of the independent Shaki Khanate, during which the Khansarai was built. But Shaki's independence did not last long; it was absorbed in the early 19th century by an expansionist Russian Empire. Due to Shaki's rather tumultuous political history (in a tumultuous region), the majority of Shaki's preserved historic and architectural monuments date from only the 16th-19th centuries.

• Winter — cold, but the snow is only heavy during January and February
• Spring — beautiful with the once-brown mountains turning green from the rain
• Summer — mild
• Fall — quite warm during the day, but at night it gets a bit chilly, so pack a jacket and a thick blanket

The train station has a somewhat inconvenient location about 17 km (11 mi) from the city center. In order to reach the station you will either have to take a taxi for 4-10 manat (depending on your negotiation skills) or hop on a Baku-bound bus or marshrutka and ask the driver to drop you off by the railroad station, and then walk about 200 m to the station. There are night trains that run from Baku-Balakan and make a stop in Shaki. There is also a Balakan-Baku train that passes through Shaki. Passengers must produce their passports in order to buy tickets. It would be wise to purchase a ticket for the luxury carriage in advance. You can contact Mr. Xemlet at ☏ +994 50 672 5538 or Mr. Arxan at ☏ +994 55 672 5758 to make advanced reservations, or buy them online. Tickets bought online must be picket up at least one hour in advance at the train station. The basic carriage (plaskard) costs 6.73 manat for upper bed, and 7.81 manat for lower bed (Oct 2017), the middle class (coupe) costs around 12 manat (Oct 2017), and the luxury carriage (SV/Super Vagon) costs 19 manat (Oct 2017). Make sure that you receive all of your change from the ticket counter, as they often try to shortchange foreigners.

Daily departure times to the Shaki terminal:

• Baku: May 28 Station, 22:10
• Balakan: 20:00
• Zaqatala: 21:00
• Qax: 21:45

Daily departure times from the Shaki terminal:

• Baku: 23:00
• Balakan: ~06:30

By bus: This is one of the more tedious ways to get to Shaki, taking around 6 hours, because the mountain pass used by cars and marshrutkas would be out of the question for such a large bus. Although slower, buses are more comfortable than marshrutkas, although the ones with air conditioning overdo the cold air in a big way. The bus depart daily from Baku International Bus Terminal at 09:00, 11:00, 12:20 and more bus almost every hour till 17:00. The local people usually buy tickets few hours/mins before the departure time. But you can also purchase tickets in days advance at Baku International Bus Terminal in or their website . The fare from Baku is 8.40 manat. The bus stop at Shaki Central Bus Station where you can get a taxi or Shaki marshrutka to your next destination easily.

By marshrutka: Marshrutkas run between many of the major cities to the Shaki bus station (avtovağzal). Use your discretion when riding the marshrutkas as the condition of both vehicles and drivers vary—this matters, given the exceptionally steep road, full of sharp curves, that awaits.

The Shaki bus terminal ticket counter open from 06:30-17:00 and 20:00-midnight (holidays 10:30-23:30). Call the cashier at ☏ +994 177 446 17. The ticket vendors at the terminal speak Russian, Turkish, and Azeri.

Bus/marshrutka departure times to the Shaki terminal:

• Baku: 09:40, 12:20, 17:30, 22:15. 6 hr. 6-9 manat.
• Ganja: 08:20, 13:45, 16:30, 17:30, 18:15. 3.60 manat.
• Qax: 09:30 12:20 16:30 18:30. 1.40 manat.

Bus/marshrutka departure times from the Shaki terminal:

• Balakan: 10:10, 14:00
• Baku: hourly from 06:30-18:00. 8-9 manat.
• Barda: 09:00, 11:30, 16:30
• Bulaq: 06:30, 10:00
• Ganja: 08:00, 08:30, 13:30. 3 manat.
• Kaldak: 13:00, 17:00
• Shaki-A Kungut: 07:00, 13:00, 17:00
• Shaki-B Kungut: 09:00, 15:00
• Mingechivir: 06:50, 09:40, 13:00, 16:00. 2 manat.
• Naftalan: 15:10
• Oguz: 07:20, 10:30, 11:40, 13:20, 15:00, 16:00. 1.50 manat.
• Qayabaş: 14:00
• Qabala via Oguz: 06:50, 14:00. 2 manat.
• Qax: 08:00 11:30 15:00 17:30. 1.40 manat.
• Shorsu: 07:00, 13:00, 16:00
• Yevlax: 10:30
• Zaqatala: 07:00, 9:00, 11:00, 11:40, 15:00, 16:30

Until the airport begins operating again, the fastest form of transport between Baku and Shaki is by taxi — it takes about 6 hr and 60 manat. If you share the ride with other people, it will cost around 10 manat per person.

A taxi is also a fine, if more expensive, way to get to Georgia, and you should have no trouble finding a taxi, bus, or marshrutka onward from the border at Lagodekhi to Tbilisi.

Though a large city by the standards of Azerbaijan, it's easy enough to get around the city center and all the main sights on foot. The sloping terrain of the city, however, may tax older visitors, but it's also easy to get around using taxis and, for the adventurous, marshrutkas.

Buses and marshrutkas operate from 07:00-20:00, charge 30 qapick (as of 2018), and go to many different locations throughout the city. There are 24 routes throughout the city, and most of these buses either stop in the bus terminal, the city center, or the new bazaar. Pay for the ride when getting off the bus.

Routes:

• 1a — Silk factory; ziyarit; radio tower; post office; hospital; bus terminal; gushlek drug store; pavilion; Olympic complex
• 3a — New bazaar; radio tower; silk factory; teacher's school; The Palace of the Shaki Khans; genceli mehel; Caravansary; post office
• 4 — New bazaar; K/T Axundov; hospital; bus terminal; gas office; pavilion
• 5 — New bazaar; bus terminal; old bazaar; silk factory; qrensh zavod; bagbanlar St
• 6 — Okhud village
• 7 — Olympic complex; bus terminal; hospital; theater; old bazaar; silk factory; university; dodu
• 8 — New bazaar; bus terminal; hospital; near school number 10; silk factory; dodu
• 9 — Silk factory; bus terminal; olympic complex
• 11 — New Bazaar; bus terminal; old bazaar; Caravansary; The Palace of the Shaki Khans; children's hospital; Olympic complex
• 14 — New bazaar; gushlek drug store; pavilion; number 11 school
• 15 — Kish; dodu; new bazaar
• 17 — First region; children's hospital; The Palace of the Shaki Khans; Caravansary; old bazaar; bus terminal; new bazaar
• 18 — Bus terminal; guyumler; sarabski kuche; asphalt mill; new bazaar; olympic complex
• 20 — Bus terminal; new bazaar
• 22 — Olympic complex; bus terminal; hospital; theater; old bazaar; Caravansary; The Palace of the Shaki Khans; children's hospital
• 23 — Bazaar; Dodu; Kish's 1st Bus Stop; Kish's 2nd Bus Stop near number 3 school
• 24 — Pavilion; number 20 school; executive committee; radio tower; recreation zone; new bazaar

Taxis charge 2-6 manat and are quite convenient if you know where you want to go within the city. Addresses are quite useless in Azerbaijan as many roads have been renamed since independence, so it's better to direct the driver to a landmark you know of such as a school, hotel, or historic place. Taxi to the train station costs 10 manat.

• 🌍 Caravansarai, M.F. Akhundov Ave 185. Daily 09:00-13:00. This building was constructed by the Shaki Khans to house caravans as they passed through on the Silk Road to and from China. This was one of 5 such stops in Azerbaijan during the 18th and 19th centuries, and was the biggest caravansarai on the Silk Road in the entire Transcaucasus region. To this day, it still serves as a place for travelers to stay and eat, and also as a place where one can simply admire its beautiful architecture. In addition to being a main sight, it's also one of the city's best hotel options. 

• 🌍 Juma Mosque (Cümə Məscidi) (Right next to the Chelebi Khan restaurant). Daily 06:00-21:00. This picturesque mosque has a 40-m spire, from which you will hear the resounding call to prayer 5 times a day. It was built from 1745-1750 and is decorated with exquisite geometric designs. Donation. 
• 🌍 Khansarai (Palace of the Shaki Khans) (on the upper main historical monument reserve), ☏ +994 177 4366. Daily 10:00-18:00. This palace, along with the Caravansarai, is one of Shaki's true must-sees. During the city's period of independence as the Shaki Khanate, Khan Hussein constructed the palace, its gardens, and fortifications to serve as the summer palace of the Shaki Khans. The palace is exquisite, inside and out, and the courtyard boasts panoramic views of the city and the surrounding mountain forests. You could make a good half day of this one site, as there are also various museums, parks, and a nice tea house right on the palace grounds. 80 qapick. 
• 🌍 Silk Factory (İpək Kombinat). Daily 09:00-17:00. Shaki, in addition to being on the Silk Road, has itself been a major silk producer over the past four centuries, and is famous for its various silk products. Shaki's silk factory is about a 15-minute walk from the center of town. It is quite difficult to gain entrance into the factory. There is a store adjoining the factory where vendors sell some fine silk items at lower prices than what you would find at the bazaar. 

• Cultural and Resting Park of BU M.F. Achundov (one block up the street from the new bazaar on west side of the road). This is a nice park to go to and sit after a hard morning of shopping. If you are hungry, you can have a picnic on the park grounds or stop in the nearby Kerpish Restaurant 
• M. Fuzuli Adina Pk (right in the city center). This central park is quite nice during the summer, and it has a couple tea houses where you can kick back and relax. 
• World War II Memorial (go half way up the road that leads to the Palace of the Shaki Khans, take a right, then up the hill). World War II memorials are a dime a dozen throughout Azerbaijan, but this particular memorial distinguishes itself with its impressive panoramic vista of the city. 

• Haydar Aliyev Museum. Daily 10:00-17:00. A museum dedicated to the first president of independent Azerbaijan (and to the perpetuation of his personality cult), across the street from the Shaki Olympic Complex. The museum is full of pictures, books, and statues dedicated to the man. Free. 
• The Rashidbey Efendihad House Museum, on the road to the Khansarai. Daily 10:00-17:00. This museum is dedicated to one of Shaki's most famous educators and authors, Rashidbey Efendihade. Free. 
• Shaki Government Painting Gallery. 09:00-16:00. This art gallery is near the Palace of the Shaki Khans and features paintings by various Shaki artists and students. 0.40 manat. 

There is endless spectacular hiking to be done throughout the northern region of Azerbaijan, and Shaki proves no exception.

• Hike on nearby mountains — Hiking trails start just behind the Khansarai. There is a whole network of the trails on the mountain. However, most of them are still unmarked and not included in any maps. Hike up on the 2,050 m high peak just NE from the town, with great sights over the plains and higher mountains behind. Trails are wide and well "maintained" by the local people who use them for logging and moving the herds.
• Shaki-Bash Kyungyut-Bideiz-Shaki — 55.5 km (34.5 mi) (48.5 km/30.1 mi by car, 7 km/4.4 mi hiking); 11 hr. After traveling to Bash Kyungyut by either car or the Bash Kyungyut bus departing from the Sheki bus terminal at 09:00 and 15:00, visit the ruins of the Albanian Church on the edge of the village. Then go to Bideiz by either taxi or local bus to visit the town's two Albanian ruins — the hiking part comes in here, since the two ruins are 5 km apart. Upon reaching Bideiz village, you can return via car to Shaki.
• Shaki-Kish-"Gelersen-Gorersen" fortress-Shaki — 22 km (14 mi) (10 km/6 mi by car or bus, 12 km/8.5 mi hiking); 6 hr. Starting in Shaki city center, take either bus 15 or 23, which run every half hour, and take it to the end of the line. After that, ask a local where Genersen Goresen Fortress is located and continue asking as you walk through the village of Kish. This path takes you from Kish to the "Gelersen-Gorersen fortress" through the Kish river and through pine groves with a plethora of varieties of mushrooms growing in the underbrush. Walking to the fortress takes about two hours. There is a tea house 15 minutes outside of the fortress that can serve as a resting point before going up or once descending from the fortress. Once at the fortress, different views of the Kish River can be seen from the peaks of the mountains. The way back from the mountain is a great time to have a picnic beneath the trees on the hills overlooking the valley. Occasional the border area guards check the people who pass inside the valley just behind Kish, it is recommended to have your passport with you.

• Shaki-Oraban-Bashkeldek-Keshnazar-Gyurgala-Shaki — 82 km (51 mi) (78 km/49 mi by car, 4 km/2.5 mi hiking); 12 hr. This road passes through the Keshnazar Valley, where it opens to a very beautiful panorama. Rest at the "Hunter's House" cabin then hike to the ancient fortress at the top of a steep peak. After walking around, you can return to Shaki.
• Shaki-Ortazeyzit-Bashzeyzit-Quzuyolu-Khanyaylagi-Markhal-Shaki — 46 km (29 mi) (32 km/20 mi by car, 14 km/9 mi hiking); 13 hours. Take a taxi to Ortazeyzit and then ask where the two churches are. The path that leads to Khan Yaylaghi meanders by two ancient Albanian churches, continues up a long path to the Khan Yaylaghi peak. After reaching Khan Yaylaghi, the Markhal recreation area is near and there are several restaurants that serve delicious kebobs and tea. From this area, Shaki can be reached by car or by walking to the Kish road and boarding the number 15 or 23 bus.

• Bankomats (ATMs) are available all around the main square. If you have a cell phone with either a Bakcell or Azercell sim card, you can recharge your account balance using various ATMs.

In addition to the several great options below, of especial interest to visitors is the excellent restaurant in the very attractive courtyard and gardens of the Caravansarai (Daily 11:00-22:00, 4-6 manat).

• Chelebi Khan, Town center, ☏ +994 177 429 20, +994 050 322 9534. Daily 10:30-00:00. This is one of the best deals for Azerbaijani food in Shaki. Additionally, the samovar tea service alongside walnut preserves, "goz murebbesi," and Shaki Halva is recommended. 3-5 manat. 
• Cold Spring Restaurant (Soyuk Bulagh url=), On the road to Kish, ☏ +994 177 611 13, +944 50 46271 33. Daily 12:00-00:00 daily. This is a restaurant that has tasty food with a wonderful natural environment with a stream running through the grounds and small platforms for individual groups to eat in a secluded manner. Because of the secluded nature of this restaurant, women can drink at this establishment without drawing undue attention. It is rumored that this is the coolest place (in terms of temperature) in Shaki because of an unspecified natural phenomenon. This restaurant can be reached by taking the number 15 or 23 bus from the center of Shaki and getting off at Soyuk Bulagh bus stop, paying 0.2 manat per person for transport. 5-8 manat. 
• Istanbul Restaurant (Next to the new bazaar). Daily 11:00-23:00. Has Turkish food and serves the cakes, danishes, and desserts from the Turkish bakery next door; this restaurant offers take-out on request, so on a nice day you can take your food to the park. 2-5 manat. 
• Kerpish Restaurant, Bu M.F. Achundov Pk. Daily 12:00-22:00. It has 5 small rooms for more private occasions. This is a typical Azerbaijani restaurant serving kebob, salad, and drinks. Expect a smoky atmosphere and it is recommended for strictly male tourists, as Azerbaijani women do not frequent such establishments. 3-5 manat. 
• Laziz Restaurant, M.F. Achundov Pk, ☏ +944 177 487 83, +944 50 351 6424. Daily 11:00-23:00. This restaurant has several personal rooms. In the summer, follow up a meal here with some soft-serve ice cream while walking in M.F. Achundov Park. 3-6 manat. 
• Shaki Saray Hotel Restaurant, ☏ +944 177 481 81. Daily 07:00-23:00. This is a great restaurant inside of the Shaki Saray Hotel. They have all types of Western food, but it would be better to eat Azerbaijani food at the Chelebi Khan. For those willing to splurge, the best chocolate brownie outside of Baku is served at this hotel. A breakfast buffet is served in the morning and lunch and dinner after that. 4-20 manat. 
• unknown. There is a nice and cheap restaurant just up the hill from the Khansarai 100 m across the river. You can sit under trees and enjoy a great view on Shaki. 

• Shaki Halva — a special type of baklava called halva, best eaten at a çay xana (tea house) alongside a piping hot cup of tea. The best halva in Shaki according to all of the locals is Eliehmed Confectioneries (Shirinyyet). It is half way up the hill that goes past the Friday Mosque leading up to the Karavan Palace and the Palace of the Shaki Khans. It is across the bridge on the right hand side in a small white building. There is a sign on the road that says Eliehmed Shirinyyet, so it can not be missed. Daily 10:00-17:00.
• Shaki Piti — a stew created with meat and potatoes and prepared in a terra cotta pot—well worth a try. The style de cuisine is as follows: first crumble up pieces of bread, pour the sauce into the bowl from the pot, eat the bread and sauce, and finally pour the rest of the stew into your bowl and eat it.

There is a nice outdoor tea house (çay xana) by the Khansarai, Daily 11:00-23:00, that serves tea and halva to people in their own individual nooks. There is also a tea house inside the walls of the Palace of the Shaki Khans which offers plates of the Shaki speciality halva alongside a pot of tea for 2 manat.

Most çay xanalar also serve local beer (piva)—draft at 50 qapick/glass or bottles at 70 qapick/bottle—or vodka (araq) at 2 manat/bottle. For anything exotic (e.g. tequila, gin, or rum), you will have to go to the Shaki Saray bar and pay Western prices there.

The only good coffee to be found (besides Nescafé or McCafe) is in the lobby of the Shaki Saray Hotel. This is where you can get your favorite espresso concoction made by Western-trained staff. The Café Mocha and Cafe Late here are some of the best hot drinks in the regions of Azerbaijan. They also offer a variety of teas.

There is a good Turkish bakery next to the New Bazaar, where you can eat local pastries. The same items can also be ordered next door at the Istanbul Restaurant, which has a nicer atmosphere. Their tastiest cake is the Snickers Cake, although it is a bit pricey (0.5 manat).

• Shaki B&B Association, ☏ +994 050 612 6564. This is the least expensive option for staying in Shaki while it is also a great opportunity for interacting with locals. Farhad Azizov is the head of the association; however, he speaks no English so have your Russian or Azeri ready.

• 🌍 Ilgar's Hostel (Илгар хостел), 20 Muslim Magomayev, ☏ +994 556238295, ilqaragayev77@hotmail.com. The friendly owner, Ilgar, offers up to 4 beds. 45 manat (for 3) including breakfast. (updated Aug 2017)
• Azer Petrol Hotel, Dord yol (Dord Yol, by the train station 5 km S of Shaki), ☏ +994 0177-38-225. This is a stop for truck drivers going and coming from Turkey, Tbilisi, and Baku. A small breakfast is included in the price of the hotel. Travelers should avoid this one, since there is no transportation to the city center. 10 manat for a bed, 20 manat for a room. 
• Shail Pansinot (Beach Side Resort), on the W side of the new bazaar, ☏ +994 55370 8560. This is a hotel of second-to-last resort (after the dismal Shaki Hotel). As you would expect, there is no "beach side" to the city of Shaki, as there is no beach. Its location near the bazaar is the best thing about the hotel, but the rooms are a bit drafty and are not so big. Another advantage is that it is quite cheap for the basic rooms. Finally, there is a small restaurant on the first floor of the hotel. The rate per night range from 16 manat for the basic room and 40 manat for a nicer room. 
• Shaki Hotel, M.A.Rasulzade St (in the town centre, above the Capital Bank, across from the Chelebi Khan restaurant and near the Juma Mosque), ☏ +994 50 318 3125, fax: +994 177 424 88, yafetmamedov@mail.ru. The tallest building in Shaki is actually a quite rotten place to stay. Rooms are in extreme disrepair and the service is as Soviet as it gets. At least the hotel does offer a guide service in five languages (English, Azeri, Russian, German, and French) and guests can take advantage of the 30 seat hotel bus. The rate per night range from 25-45 manat. 

• 🌍 Caravansarai (Caravan Palace) (down the road leading to the Khansarai), ☏ +994 177 431 72, +994 177 448 14. Built hundreds of years ago and refurbished since, it has a restaurant, gift shops, and a çay xana (tea house). Hidden inside the corridors alongside the restaurant are rooms for parties of 10-20. During tourist season everything on the menu is available, but in the spring and fall the selection is limited to the course of the day. Service is excellent and accommodations do not get more atmospheric than this. But: don´t have breakfast there. They will charge you 7 manat extra and offer little service - only tea and bread. Fot coffee head out on the street 50 m to the right is a teahouse. You can sit on the street and have coffee for 20 qapick. Single 20 manat, double 30 manat, triple 36 manat. Luxe suite for 85 manat. 
• Panorama Inn, ☏ +994 50 622 9027. Run by a middle-aged couple, has a nice view of the whole community of Shaki and nice, albeit pricy (for Azerbaijan) meals. 5 bedrooms for two people apiece, each decorated with Azerbaijani handicrafts and tools. The rate per night range from 26-35 manat. 

• Naran Qala Istrahat Zonasi (Narin Qala Cottage Complex, on the road to Kish, north of Gelersen Goresen Fortress), ☏ +994 177 453 00. This is a cottage complex with over 20 different 1-4 room cottages. In each cottage there are bathrooms, kitchens, and satellite TV. The facilities outside the cottages include a playground for children, evening shows, and a restaurant where children up to 8 years of age can eat for free. This resting zone is within walking distance of Kish's Albanian temple, Markhal, and the old fortress ruins of Gelersen Goresen. 100-150 manat per cottage. 
• Shaki Idman Kompleksi (Shaki Olympic Complex), ☏ +994 177 512 63, fax: +994 0177 5 11 55. The well-groomed sports center complexes, complete with beautiful gardens, that are being built throughout the country are one of the current president's pet projects. The Shaki Olympic Complex is a little ways out of the town and getting there involves a marshrutka or taxi ride. The sports areas are available to visitors—for a price of course—including volleyball, basketball, tennis, and football. The facility has a conference room for 50 people, a dining room, and small cottages. 40 manat. 
• Shaki Saray Hotel (Sheki Palace Hotel), ☏ +994 177 48181, +994 50 413 1133 (cell), fax: +994 177 47099, rasimm@shekisaray.az. The latest hotel in the city, also the most expensive as it caters to wealthy Azerbaijanis from Baku and Ganja as well as Westerners (the staff speaks English and Russian). It has many amenities previously unseen outside of Baku such as in-room Internet access via ethernet, taxi service, room service, etc. There is a conference room on the first floor, a bar with coffee/alcohol, and a restaurant. Rooms range from the basic single to the Presidential Suite. 55-200 manat/night. They accept American Express, Visa, and MasterCard. Seasonal rates apply from winter rates, summer weekday rates, and summer weekend rates, with the last being the most expensive. 

• Ambulance, ☏ +994 177 103. 
• City hospital, ☏ +994 177 42 466. 
• Fire, ☏ +994 177 101. 
• Police, ☏ +994 177 102. 

The city hospital is near the center of Shaki, right across the street from the Drama Theater.

You must speak Azeri, Russian, or Turkish to communicate your needs. It would be a good idea to memorize key phrases before coming to Azerbaijan — see the Talk section for phrasebooks.

• Pack a flashlight (especially in fall-spring) as the streets are not always well lit and power cuts are common.
• Restrict your travel outside of the city to the day time, unless taking a night train. The roads can be treacherous at night due to unseen potholes and dimly lit cars.

• Fazil Village Labyrinth, ☏ +944 177 91 1 44. There is a labyrinth that is being excavated from the 4th and 3rd century BCE. It was the site of ritual sacrificing and graves. The labyrinth is open to the public. It is in Fazil Village, 25 km (16 mi) southwest of the city. 
• Gelersen-Gorsesen Fortress. This is an ancient fortress that aided the Shaki khanate in resisting Nadir Shah's incursions in the adjacent village of Kish. 
• Horse Racing. There is a horse racing, breeding, and riding center near Shaki in Dashuz village 15 km outside of Shaki. 
• Square Tower. There is a square tower in Aidanbulag villages about 20 km (12 mi) away from Shaki. The site was used as an observation tower for the eastern frontier of the Shaki Khanate. The tower is square with circular projections protruding from each corner. 

• Head north through Qax and its Ilisu recreation area, Zaqatala, and Balakan and then cross the border to Georgia at Lagodekhi.
• Take the Ganja bus and tour Azerbaijan's second biggest city.
• Head back through Oguz—and see the waterfalls on your way—to Baku.