Sosúa

German Jews settled this little pueblo in the early 1940s. Many streets are named for Ashkenazic Jews.

The town is relatively small and walkable. You can also get around using the motoconcho, where you are basically hitching a ride on the back of someone's motorcycle. The price within the El Batey area of Sosua is RD$20 during the day and RD$40 at night, though you will certainly be quoted more if you ask them firsthand. Simply tell the driver where you want to go, hop on, and hand the driver the exact fare when you arrive at your destination and walk away. The motoconcho drivers are everywhere and will actively solicit you for a ride. Do not hop a concho while you are inebriated.

The cheapest way to move between Sosua and the surrounding cities and towns of Puerto Plata, Cabarete and Rio San Juan, as well as the tourist resorts in between, is by guagua (Caribbean Spanish slang for bus), which are small mini-vans operating on the main highway between Puerto Plata and Rio San Juan. At peak hours they pass every five or ten minutes. Short distances (i.e., Sosua to Cabarete) should cost no more than RD$20 to Cabarete, to RD$30 to Puerto Plata. They will pack in up to 25 people per mini-van (this is not an exaggeration!), with passengers almost in each other's laps. Watch your wallet! You may even have someone's cage of roosters deposited on you lap. Then the merengue starts up on the radio and half the passengers pitch in, singing from memory.

Tourist taxis are plentiful but expensive when compared to the other modes of transportation in Sosua. As of March 2009, tourist taxi from Caribe Tours bus station to El Batey run RD$150. A taxi from Sosua to Puerto Plata airport will charge US$25 for the car. Many taxi drivers will attempt quote US$25 per person, so be aware. Note that it is possible to get a ride for as low as US$10, however, you must #1 dress the part #2 speak good spanish. Leave your luggage at your place of stay, and go out dressed like a local (shirtless & sandals) towards the taxi hub. Ask around where for the taxi meeting point . After a few minutes of asking around, a local with a car will eventually ask you where you want to go. Say you want to go to the airport, and that you will pay US$10. Most locals will think this is a good price and take you in their private pickup/car. Included in this price is the 1-3 block drive to your place of stay (to pick up your luggage). Give them the money once at the airport. This is a little more difficult to do with legitimate taxis at the taxi hub.

The taxi ride from the airport to almost any point in Sosua is less than 10 minutes. You will pay about US$15 from Sosua to Cabarete but this is a complete ripoff when the guagua runs through town and charges RD$20 pesos per person. Guaguas and publicos run through the main roads. You have to flag them down so they will stop for you.

Car rentals may be had locally and if you prefer to deal with the international chains, stop by the Puerto Plata airport. An economy car may be rented for US$30 per day. Check with your credit card company first to see what coverage they provide because this price is not inclusive of insurance. Local insurance is expensive so most simply rely on the coverage provided by their credit card.

You may also simply take guaguas which are the carro publicos along the main road which are affordable and overcrowded. For instance a taxi between Sosua and Cabarete from the official stop will cost upwards of US$20 while a guagua will cost about US$1.50. Similarly you can get to the airport for US$30 from a taxi at one of the stops which has set fares or take the carro publico for less than US$2.

Playa Sosua is the town's main beach. It is a fun, colorful and lively beach which is approximately one kilometer long, with a row of shacks along the back, selling food, drinks and souvenirs. At one end of the beach is the El Batey neighborhood, which was founded by a community of about 600 Jews exiled here from Eastern Europe during World War II. It contains the small synagogue, still occasionally used by Jews from the surrounding communities, as well as a small museum documenting the history of the Jewish community in Sosua, both set in a tidy tropical green lawn adjacent to Casa Marina Resort. The synagogue has services on Friday evenings about once per month - check with the museum whether there are services the week you are there. Batey no longer has an active Jewish community; it is now the tourist section of town, containing several all-inclusive resorts, as well as a number of smaller hotels and guest houses.

At the other end of the beach is Los Charamicos, which is the locals' neighborhood and somewhat more run-down and lively than Batey. For an authentic cockfighting experience go to Club Gallistico, in Charamicos. It is along one of the main streets but you will have to ask for directions. Cockfights are on Saturday afternoons and sometimes on other days of the week. It is best not to venture alone into the alleyways of Charamicos as they are unsafe. The main streets are OK during daytime but care should be taken at night.

The beach is very popular and offers the best local option for the snorkeling enthusiast - snorkelers should swim out to the reef that lies about 100 m from the shore. A beach chair rental should cost about RD$60. Refuse to pay any more. Equipment can also be rented there. There are lots of gift shops where you will be quoted absolutely laughable prices (see the "Buy" section below).

There are two other beaches in town. Playa Alicia is accessible from the On the Waterfront restaurant. This beach is quieter and more sterile than Playa Sosua, and is thus a good option for those who want to trade a bit of local color for a more relaxed experience. The town's third and smallest beach is accessible from the Sosua by the Sea hotel.

As in the other towns on the North Coast, tour operators offer numerous excursions to surrounding sites and nearby adventure activities at reasonable prices. These include whale watching (December to March), jeep tours, waterfalls and swimming holes, deep sea fishing, whitewater rafting, snorkeling, mountain biking, horseback riding, interesting beaches, as well as tours of Puerta Plata, Santiago, Santo Domingo and the border area of Haiti. Check with a tour operator near your hotel for available excursions. The range of tour options and the trips themselves are almost identical among the various tour operators.

• Merlin Dive Center (at the entrance to Playa Sosua). Offers all of the standard diving fare, including snorkeling, beginner dives, advanced dives, etc. They are a highly professional outfit who will take you for pleasure dives or you can get qualified with them for a very reasonable price compared to the UK. 
• 🌍 Sosua Beach (Playa Sosua), Highway 5, Sosua. 7AM - 7PM. Sosua beach is the main attraction of Sosua, a beautiful golden sand semicircle of turquoise blue water set in a bay of the same name. There are many gift shops, restaurants, bars, and tour operators available for visitors. It has shallow waters in many areas, so clear you can see bottom fish from a boat. See also https://www.facebook.com/sosuabeachdr/ (updated Jul 2015)

Tourists are always quoted prices inflated by a factor of at least 2, sometimes even 5 or 6. A good rule of thumb is consider how much you would pay at home for a similar item. If you are tired of haggling, just offer a price and walk away if they don't agree. Chances are they will run after you and sell for the price offered.

Most of the souvenir shops sell the same ubiquitous Latin American fare. Sosua also has a large number of Haitian paintings for sale. Many of these oil paintings are the same in each shop. Occasionally some good quality artwork can be found.

Cigars of course are popular but prices vary. Very good Dominican cigars (torpedo size) can be bought for US$3 per piece if bought directly at the factory and with lots of haggling, add US$1 or US$2 markup for the local vendor to arrive at a realistic price - but you will without doubt be quoted US$10 to US$15 and have to haggle a lot. Only buy cigars at souvenir stores, stands on the beach or from beach vendors if you really know cigars and can tell real ones from fakes. Cuban cigars may be purchased but beware that many of the Cuban name brands also have Dominican manufacture, though the quality is said to rival that of Cuban ones. When buying boxes, always inspect their content before paying or you might end up with cigars made from worm-punctured leaves even when the factory itself has a good name.

Authentic leather goods are not available in any tourist oriented shop or beach shack in Sosua. Imitation leather is the rule of the day. Authentic leather goods are more commonly found in Santo Domingo.

If you head away from the beach to the main road there is a large supermarket where the prices for lots of goods are a lot cheaper, except for fruit which is best bought in dedicated fruit stores.

Sosua has a lot of restaurants and you can find authentic German food, Italian food, English fare, and of course, if you look for it, traditional Dominican cooking. Many Dominicans can cook food rivaling New York City restaurants on not much more than a hot plate and an open flame. Service time varies in between restaurants and in between different nights. Often the same restaurant will be very slow one night (coincidentally when the boss in not around) and excellent the next.

• Britannia Pub, Pedro Clisante 9, ☏ +1 809-571-1959. 8AM-11PM. A great place for a few drinks and a delicious meal. Breakfast is of large portion and don't forget their famous fish and chips. Take heed of the specials which tend to be excellent. They also serve the coldest Presidente in Sosua and have one of the best happy hours in town. Wifi is available. (updated Apr 2017)
• El Choco. German food just outside of town on the main road. 
• Josef's Bar and Grill (behind the Sosua-by-the-Sea Hotel). Th-Sa 7PM until late. Set amidst perhaps the most impressive setting of any of Sosua's restaurants, this establishment has four tables set on a spit of land with waves crashing literally feet away. The food is prepared creatively with excellent presentation and an interesting mix of flavors. There is a hotel restaurant adjacent to this one, so be sure to make it clear that you want to eat at Josef's, otherwise the menu and vista will be significantly less impressive. One helpful tip: while the setting is romantic and inspiring, on nights when the sea is rough consider avoiding the last table located closest to the water. US$15-40 per person. 
• Morua Mai (right across from P.J.'s). Great for fine dining, one of the top 3 restaurants in Sosua. 
• On the Waterfront. An upscale restaurant which has excellent food on a cliff overlooking the bay. The open-air setting is ideal for watching sunsets or romantic evenings. Happy hour is from 5-7PM. US$20-45 per person. 
• P.J.'s. Sosua's version of a diner, large menu with adequate food, but nothing to rave about. 24-hour service is available during the high season. 
• Pica Pollo. The fried chicken at lunch is not to be missed and is quite affordable. Shouldn't cost more than US$4. Best served with fritos (fried bananas - taste like french fries) or arroz y habichuelas (rice and beans). 
• Rocky's. Provides a kind of hostel atmosphere with good food and very affordable prices, if you are unfamiliar with Sosua this is a good place to start. Try the ribs at Rocky's, served beginning at 5PM, and be patient. Enjoy a beer or two and strike up a conversation with a fellow tourist or expatriate while you wait. Rocky's breakfasts are large and satisfying, and every table is appointed with a fresh pot of coffee for you to enjoy. Wifi is available and computers are situated in the restaurant for you to check your email or surf the internet for a very small fee. 
• Tick Tack. Most restaurants open at 8AM, but for those looking for food at an earlier hour this German-run internet cafe has good coffee and an affordable plate of scrambled eggs. 
• Casanova's. Delightful beachfront restaurant with varied menu, excellent service and free wireless internet access. 
• Jolly Roger Bar & Grill, 11 Pedro Clisante. Offers drinks, food, and a lively atmosphere. There is bingo every Tuesday at 2PM, darts on Friday nights, Thieves Market every other Saturday where you can find some great deals, and a guest chef night on Sundays for RD$250. They also have a good happy hour. Wifi is available. 
• Bologna Restaurant. the finest Italian restaurant and pizzeria in Sosua 
• 🌍 El Toro Negro, Caseta #107 Sosua Beach, ☏ +1 809-571-4828, ElToroNegroSosua@gmail.com. 10AM to 8:30PM. Authentic Mexican food on the Sosua Beach. Excellent drinks and beautiful surroundings. Full . and Open all day and as late as you want. Dine-in, take out and delivery. US$5. (updated Feb 2017)
• 🌍 Big D's BBQ, 109B Sosua Beach, ☏ +1 829-903-3125. Noon-6PM. Best BBQ around, ribs and chicken that fall off the bone; also featuring excellent sides and the always welcoming Big D himself. If not open at his beach stall he's manning the Victoria House Hotel's Bourbon Street Grill at the end of the beach. (updated Apr 2017)

Presidente and Bohemia, once virtually the sole choice besides rum drinks, are now being challenged by Brahma, another locally brewed beer (of Brazilian origin), and by Quilmes (an Argentinian beer). Several of the bars now stock European and American beers at a premium price. Brugal, the local rum with its company headquarters on the eastern outskirts of Puerto Plata, will be placed in your rum drinks unless you have the savvy to ask for the Barceló (another local rum which is of far superior quality.) Mixed drinks tend to be rum based and cost more than beer but "when in Rome." Many of the restaurants and bars have a happy hour from 4-7PM which is often 2-1 drinks.

On the beach, there is an endless array of restaurants (along with the souvenir shops stuffed with the same goods) which serve drinks and each small swath of beach has a different person who provides concierge service for a modest fee (US$0.30 per drink). As one leaves the beach there are a number of expatriate bars and restaurants clustered towards the end of Pedro Clisante closest to the beach. The Checkpoint Pub is popular during the day. The Brittania restaurant has an excellent Happy Hour. Beside that is "The Jolly Rogers", owned and operated by a pair of Canadians, Patti and Kelly. They offer weekly trivia and bingo, a happy hour, live music, and sports on TV. Rudy's has a weekly karaoke night. There​ is a substantial international community who frequents these establishments which lends a cosmopolitan feel to this end of town.

As one heads away from this expatriate area, Pedro Clisante is dominated by discos and bars which are companionship friendly. This end of town rather than being reminiscent of San Sebastian in Spain harkens to the nightlife of Manila. The Club Classico is the fountainhead of Sosua nightlife with the burgeoning Sosua Life just a few blocks away. Sosua is a friendly Town, prices and ambiance vary greatly within the town.

• Casanova's. Excellent food and beautiful setting as a beach front restaurant. Service is excellent, located in Cabarete beach. 
• Gaudi Tapas Bar, Pedro Clisante #12. Spanish restaurant serving a wide variety of tapas, drinks and fine food. Located in the Village Square plaza where years ago operated the famous Casablanca bar. 

Budget hotels start at around US$25 per night, while the all-inclusive resorts can range in price up to several hundred dollars per night. Most hotels will agree on a discount when you book for a week (10-20%) or a full month (up to 50%), especially in off-season. Since sex-tourism is a major factor in town, hotels are divided between a strict "no working girls"- and a very liberal policy - ask before booking about their "guest policy" so you can make sure you stay in a place that floats your boat.

Most hotels offer free WiFi, though, if you book after arrival, it makes sense to check connectivity and speeds in the offered room because not all have reliable/fast connections.

Be prepared for the heat. The Dominican Republic is sub-tropical and warm all year.

Prostitution is common in Sosua, so men should expect to be propositioned by women offering "massages" with extra favors. In general these individuals will not be overly aggressive, so if you keep walking and say "No, gracias" there shouldn't be any problems. In bars, men will have lots of women vying for their attention - keep in mind that they are not smiling at you and grabbing at you because they are suddenly in love with you.

The nearest towns are Puerto Plata to the west and Cabarete to the east. Further eastward it is possible to see Dominican Republic without the expatriate crowd. As you leave the civilization of Puerto Plata, Sosua and Cabarete, European-style restaurants and supermarkets become rare as to other first world conveniences such as the internet cafes which abound on every third corner in Sosua.

If you are looking for a less trammeled vacation experience, drive out to Samana (4 hours) or consider staying in Las Canas, which is 35 minutes to the east but feels like it is a million miles from civilization. Private villa rentals are available with a beach that you can walk on for hours without seeing anybody.

Read section "Get around" above for ways of finding US$10 fare to Puerto Plata airport.

• Cabarete - 10 minutes to the east, this town offers a massive number of resorts and some of the best kitesurfing and windsurfing in the Caribbean.
• Puerto Plata - 15 minutes to the west, this town is the area's largest.
• Santa Barbara de Samana - about 3 hours to the east, famous for whale-watching but in itself a worthwhile destination