Tokyo/Setagaya

The local tourist association has a multilingual guide site, Enjoy! Setagaya.

The main train lines serving Setagaya are the Odakyu from Shinjuku to Odawara, the Keio line from Shinjuku to Takao-san, and the Keio Inokashira, Tokyu Toyoko, and Tokyu Denentoshi, all originating in Shibuya. Since all of these rail lines run generally westward from hubs on the Yamanote line, it can be difficult to travel north-south without going in to a hub and back out. Many bus lines exist for this purpose.

Also, select Tokyo Metro Chiyoda line trains (generally every thirty minutes) through-run from Ayase in Adachi Ward.

The only major connector line in the ward is the Tokyu Ōimachi line, which primarily serves residential communities to the extreme south located along the Tama River and Tokyo's #8 Ring Road (Kampachi-dori). The line can be used to connect between the Toyoko and Denentoshi lines without going back to Shibuya. Tokyu Triangle Pass allows riding on the three lines (Shibuya-Futakotamagawa-Jiyugaoka-Shibuya) for nearly one day (until 22:30) at only \470.

The Tokyu Setagaya line between Sangenjaya and Shimo-takaido (on Keio Line) is one of only two remaining streetcar lines in Tokyo.

Shimokitazawa has many quirky shops:

• Ex. Sells artistic designed stuff like photo stands, postcards, clocks, accessories and so on. 
• Setagaya Boro-Ichi (世田谷ボロ市) (Take the Setagaya line to Setagaya or Kamimachi and follow the crowds). A flea market that's held on the 15th and 16th of December and January each year. It's been drawing shoppers from all over Tokyo since it started in 1578. The main attraction is used clothing (such as kimono) and antiques. 

What Futako-Tamagawa perhaps lost in old-school charm and character it has gained in modernity and selection that rivals other major shopping areas in Tokyo. This revitalized station-front shopping area, which seems to have taken a peculiar design cue from nearby Tama Plaza, is anchored by two main shopping areas:

• Tamagawa-Takashimaya S.C. (玉川高島屋Ｓ・Ｃ (=Shopping Center)) (west of Futako-Tamagawa Sta. along Tamagawa-dori). The original anchor, now renovated to keep up with its reputation as a fashion center, is home to many of the same international brand name boutiques you'd find in Ginza, Omotesandou, or Roppongi Hills. Many of its annexes are connected via pedestrian bridges or garden walkways. 
  • The Main Wing, South Wing, and West Wing along with Hanamizuki Court are across the street from the train station, and are home to numerous upscale brands such as Gucci, Burberry, and Lacoste. There is also a branch of Books Kinokuniya which, like its other locations across Japan, typically carries a decent selection of international publications.
  • The East Wing, Keyaki Court, Garden Island and Marronnier Court are up the street on the same side of the station, and contain stores such as muji and Gap.
• Futako-Tamagawa Rise (二子玉川ライズ) (Connected to and east of Futako-Tamagawa Sta.). A complex of shopping centers and offices on the eastern end of the station. Rakuten Corporation has their headquarters right outside the station. Also has a bridge connected to a park. 
  • Rise Shopping Center and Dogwood Mall house many major domestic and international brand name stores, including H&M, Loft, Uniqlo, Oshman's, The North Face, and Francfranc.
  • Oak Mall, Bird's Mall, and Plaza Mall are more local in flavor and are the new, modern homes for many of the businesses that were displaced by the redevelopment.

Jiyūgaoka has for a long time carried a somewhat trendy if not upscale caché. Some of its street-front stores include independent and chain apparel stores (most of which cater to women), and various zakka (variety shop) establishments.

Shimokitazawa is your best option for restaurants and bars.

• La Befana, 5-31-3 Daita (30-second walk from Shimokitazawa West Exit), ☏ +81 3-3411-9500. Daily 12:00-14:00, 17:30-22:30. Good pizza from wood-fired stone oven, something you will be missing if you are staying for a long time in Japan. The lunch menu is excellent. 
• Setagaya (せたが屋), Nozawa 2-1-2 1F, ☏ +81 3-3418-6938. 17:00-22:30. A famous ramen restaurant. Also has a branch at Haneda Airport Terminal 3. 
• 🌍 Shiro-Hige’s Cream Puff Factory (白髭のシュークリーム工房), 5-3-1 Setagaya-Daita (3 minutes from Setagaya-Daita station, 7 minutes from Shimokitazawa station. Just east (right, around corner) of north end of pedestrian bridge over east side of Setagaya-Daita station. From Shimokitazawa station west exit, go south (left) on main road. Turn west (right) when it bends at the tracks, then turn south (left) at second street on your left, then walk to the bend. From Setagaya-Daita station west exit, turn north (right), skip first small street right next to station and turn east (right) on next street, then walk until it turns. (map)), ☏ +81 3-5787-6221. 10:30–19:00 (closed Tu). Bakery specializing in adorable Totoro-shaped cream puffs, cookies and cakes. around ¥600 each. 
• Sunday Brunch, Kitazawa 2-29-2 2F, ☏ +81 3-5453-3366. The French toast is very tasty. 
• 🌍 Village Vanguard Diner, Daita 6-3-1. 11:30-02:00. Hamburger shop that has many kind of very delicious hamburgers. Run by Village Vanguard, a chain of variety & bookstores. ¥660. 
• Ushi Tora, Kitazawa 2-9-3 2F (South exit, Odakyu Line, east, south, east), ☏ +81 3-3485-9090, ushixtora@gmail.com. 17:00-23:30. Two bars. One with tables & chairs, allows tobacco smoking, and accepts a credit card. One space over, a standing bar with more beers on tap, is non-smoking, and takes only cash. 
• 🌍 Universal Bakes. We-Su 08:30-18:00. Vegan bakery selling coffee, bread and doughnuts. (updated Mar 2024)

Komazawa and surroundings

• Botero, Komazawa 1-17-17, ☏ +81 3-3410-5922. Regular holiday is Tuesday. 
• Patisserie Naoki, Komazawa 1-4-12 1F, ☏ +81 3-3422-3167. 

Futako-Tamagawa is home to both high-brow and casual cuisine alike, most of it concentrated around the train station's shopping areas. As is the case with many other shopping areas across Japan, the restaurants on the higher floors offer supreme dining experiences with great views, and the prices to match.

• Kua'Aina (クア・アイナ), Dogwood Plaza 7F. Branch of the Hawaiian-American burger joint found in on both sides of the Pacific. 
• Moti (モティ), Dogwood Plaza 7F. Moderately priced Indian food with a great view. Vegetarian options. 
• Starbucks, Dogwood Plaza 1F. While its ubiquity usually negates any need of mentioning, this particular location somewhat breaks from typical cookie-cutter mold through its unique seating arrangement and indoor garden setting. 

Jiyūgaoka is fairly well-known for its mom-and-pop establishments, especially bakeries and pastry shops.

• Jiyugaoka Burger (自由が丘バーガー), Jiyugaoka 1-3-15 4F, Meguro-ku. Domestically-sourced, organic and thick burgers in a lush balcony setting. Sets from ¥1100. 
• Jiyugaoka Sweets Forest (自由が丘スイーツ・フォレスト), Midorigaoka 2-25-7, Meguro-ku (5-min walk from Jiyūgaoka Sta. South Exit). Cheerfully themed modern food park of sorts that brings together all kinds of kawaii-inspired sweets in one place. 
• Kochoo (コチュ), Okusawa 6-22-12 (3-min walk from Kuhonbutsu Station; 8-min walk from Jiyūgaoka Sta.). Specializes in sundubu, a Korean stew which actually has roots in Los Angeles. All-you-can-eat banchan, which is common practice in Korea but rare in Japan!