Tokyo/Sumida

Sumida is considered "shitamachi" (roughly translated as "old town"), though it has become a kind of bedroom community for Tokyoites, which has meant the building of many high-rise apartment buildings. Despite the boom in construction, the area retains its pre-WWII charm, with many small businesses and a small neighborhood feel to it.

The Ryōgoku (両国) neighborhood, in the southwest portion of the ward, is nearly synonymous with sumō wrestling, one of Japan's most famous sports, where the human behemoths grapple and attempt to hoist each other out of the ring. The Edo-Tokyo Museum, an excellent and large museum on the history of Tokyo (but closed for renovation until 2025), is here, as well as a collection of quirky special-interest museums.

The JR Sobu Line (local service) runs east–west through Sumida, connecting to the Yamanote line across the river in Akihabara. Via subway, the Toei Oedo Line loops past the western edge of the ward with connections to both Ueno in the north and Shiodome to the south. On both lines, Ryogoku Station is the closest connection to most of the ward's main attractions.

Those going to Tokyo Skytree can use the Tokyo Skytree Station on the Tobu Railway (one station from the Asakusa terminal station) or Oshiage (Skytree) on the Toei Asakusa Line and Tokyo Metro Hanzōmon Line.

• 🌍 Tokyo Skytree (東京スカイツリー), 1-1-2 Oshiage (Tobu Railway to Tokyo Skytree Station, Toei Asakusa Subway Line/Tokyo Metro Hanzōmon Line to Oshiage (Skytree) Station, or direct bus from Tokyo Station (30 minutes, ¥500)). Daily 08:00-22:00. Completed in 2012, Tokyo Skytree stands tall over the old Sumida ward as the newest symbol of Tokyo and the world's tallest self-supporting tower at 634 m. It is the primary location from which digital television broadcast signals in Tokyo are transmitted. The tower's LED lighting system uses a different color scheme every night. The Skytree is complemented by a shopping complex, Tokyo Solamachi (Tokyo Skytree Town). Adults ¥2,060 to the main deck, additional ¥1,030 to the upper deck. International visitors can purchase fast track tickets from the Fast Skytree Ticket Counter on the 4th floor for ¥3,000-4,000 (passport required). 

• 🌍 Ryōgoku Kokugikan (両国国技館 / Sumo), 1-3-28 Yokoami, ☏ +81 3-3623-5111 (Japanese). The largest sumo arena in Japan with a capacity for 10,000 spectators, this is where grand tournaments or basho are held in January, May and September, starting on the second Sunday of the month. These tournaments last for 15 days, and are filled with ceremony and ritual which observe strict hierarchies not just for the wrestlers, but also for the referees and callers. The competition each day begins around 09:00 with the amateurs, and from there, wrestlers compete in progressing order of seniority. The professional wrestlers start around 14:35, but the excitement begins when the top division makuuchi (幕内) enter the ring in the dohyō-iri (土俵入り) ceremony at 15:50. The tournament culminates when the high-rank yokozuna (横綱) and ozeki (大関) have their bouts, around 18:00. If you have seats far from the ring, but arrive early, it is possible to borrow some seats close to the ring until mid-afternoon, when most spectators begin to arrive. English pamphlets describing the day's program and sumo in general are available, and radios with live English commentary can be rented. Food is available inside, at somewhat inflated prices. There are now signs prohibiting you from bringing in outside food and drink, but enforcement is spotty. Advance-booking Western-style chairs on the second floor are ¥3,600, ¥4,900 and ¥8,400; Japanese-style box seats on the first floor are ¥9,200, ¥10,300 and ¥11,300. These can be purchased at ticket outlets and convenience stores, starting the month before the match. You can buy unsold seats on the day of the tournament for ¥2,100, but only at the Kokugikan box office. 

Note:

• If you would like to reserve Sumo tournament tickets in advance, JTB group sells tour packages to Tokyo's three Sumo tournaments for ¥9800 per person, which includes a tour of the Sumo Museum and a second floor reserved seat to watch the afternoon Sumo matches. A meal package for ¥13,800 includes a post-match dinner where you can feast on Sumo's signature dish, Chanko-nabe (see below).
• Instead of peering at wrestlers through binoculars from the cheap seats at Kokugikan, you can see sumo up close and personal by visiting a sumo stable (heya) to watch the morning training, generally held daily 06:00-10:00 (and no, you don't have to stick around for the whole time). Advance arrangements will be necessary, preferably with the help of a Japanese speaker, and a "donation" of around ¥1,500 is expected. While watching the training, keep quiet and do not take flash photos. Many stables — particularly those with very famous wrestlers — do not permit visits. Isenoumi Stable has an informative (although increasingly outdated) English home page and is happy to arrange visits.

• Tokyo Solamachi (東京ソラマチ), 1 Chome-1-2 Oshiage. Tokyo's largest commercial complex, with over 300 shops and restaurants, plus an aquarium and a planetarium, at the base of Tokyo Skytree. (updated Mar 2024)

While in sumo town the thing to do is eat sumo food, namely the hearty chanko-nabe (ちゃんこ鍋) stew that forms the bulk of a rikishi's diet. Oddly, it's actually a fairly healthy dish of chicken, fish, tofu and vegetables cooked in broth, the wrestlers just seem to eat lots of it. Many a sumo wrestler sets up a chanko restaurant when they retire, and many of those establishments can be found here. Be warned that this is usually fairly expensive, with sets starting around ¥2,500/person. You'll want at least two people, and make reservations well in advance if planning to sample chanko when the basho is in town.

• 🌍 Chanko Tomoegata (巴潟), 2-17-6 Ryōgoku (3 min south from JR Ryōgoku West exit), ☏ +81 3-3632-5600. Tu-Su 11:30-14:00, 17:00-23:00. One of Tokyo's oldest chanko joints, operating for over 100 years, specializing in a slightly unusual miso-flavored soup. Lunch sets at ¥840/1260 weekdays/weekends are just about the cheapest chanko you'll find anywhere and a good option for the solo traveller. Dinner starts from ¥2940/person for the Tomoegata (miso) or Yahazuyama (dashi) set and goes up to ¥8400 for the aptly humongous 9-course Yokozuna. 

• Popeye Beer Club (麦酒倶楽部Popeye), 2-18-7 Ryogoku, ☏ +81 3-3633-2120. M-F 17:00-01:00, Sa 17:00-02:00, closed Su. Popeye's is an excellent place to try Japanese microbrews. There are 70 beers on tap, which cover the full range of beers from familiar ales to barley wines and rauchbiers. The food menu is interesting, try the avocado and blue cheese. English menus are available. Not English friendly if you have problems asking about the menu or bill. Not a standing bar, you have to be seated and charged for that; hidden seating and cover charges can a nasty surprise when you get your bill. Pints of beer are around ¥900, half pints and a sampler set are available. 
• 🌍 Asakusa Smile Bar & Cafe (浅草スマイルバー&カフェ), 1 Chome-16-1 Azumabashi, asakusasmilebar@gmail.com. 17:00-23:30. Founded by a Tokyo resident returning from abroad. Located across the Sumida river from the Asakusa tourist district. Clientele has many expats and English-speaking Japanese. Periodically hosts an English-language comedy show. (updated Jan 2023)

Accommodations are few, especially for non-Japanese speakers. Sleeping elsewhere in Tokyo and taking the train in for the day is the typical approach.

• Tobu Hotel Levant Tokyo (東武ホテル　レバント東京), １-2-2　Kinshi (3 minutes walk from JR Kinshi-cho station), ☏ +81 3-5611-5511. 
• Lotte City Hotel Kinshicho (ロッテシティホテル錦糸町), 4-6-1 Kinshi (in front of JR kinshi-cho Station.), ☏ +81 3-5619-1066. 
• Dai-ichi Hotel Ryogoku (第一ホテル両国), 1-6-1 Yokoami (1 minute walk from Oedo Subway Ryogoku Station A-1), ☏ +81 3-5611-5211. 

• Asakusa, across the Sumida River to the west, part of Taito ward
• Eastern Tokyo
• Taito, across the Sumida River to the west
• The little Fukagawa Edo Museum in nearby Koto Ward (From Ryogoku Subway Station, take Oedo line to Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station, exit A3) is a nice complement to the Edo-Tokyo Museum. Kiyosumi Garden is nearby.