Vancouver/Gastown-Chinatown

Much of the neighbourhoods' distinctiveness is derived from their early importance to Vancouver and subsequent decline. Gastown emerged from a collection of shanties around a sawmill in the 1860s, later becoming part of the city of Vancouver when it was incorporated in 1886. It was the early entertainment district of the city, with a large number of saloons and drinking establishments. Hastings Street, on its south side, became a commercial area with many of the city's early office buildings. Chinatown, to the southeast, was settled primarily by Chinese immigrants who came to Canada in the late 1800s to build the trans-continental railway. Many remained in Canada and started their own businesses that helped make Chinatown, and Vancouver, flourish.

The city's business district slowly shifted westwards towards the Granville Street area and Gastown and Chinatown began a long decline after the Great Depression. A proposal to demolish much of the area to make way for an expressway in the 1960s started a debate about their future and helped spark interest in the neighbourhoods. Renewal has been uneven, and today Gastown and Chinatown (and the broader Downtown Eastside, which they are part of) are in varying states of decay and restoration. Tourist spots and trendy bars sit just a couple of blocks from street-front drug deals, and hip new condos look over what is called Canada's poorest postal code.

The Gastown of today has all the appearances of mass-market tourism and can generate a bit of a love/hate feeling. It's a popular spot for the tour buses and the tacky souvenir shops know it... there's another one every few storefronts. But the wide sidewalks, street-level patios and old brick and stone buildings lend a charm and almost give it a European feel. Water Street has many of the tourist shops and restaurants while Cordova Street is more run-down (particularly east of Cambie St) and has a number of shops selling vintage items.

Chinatown, the second largest Chinatown in North America by area, is further from the tourist path and feels rougher around the edges than Gastown. It has the usual Chinese-influenced buildings, along with a handful of Chinese provision shops, restaurants and community associations. However, those expecting something like the Chinatowns in New York City, San Francisco or Sydney will likely be sorely disappointed; Vancouver's Chinatown has declined considerably since its heyday, and is today a shadow of its former self; it is run down with large numbers of homeless people, and turns into a ghost town in the evenings. Today, the heart of Chinese Vancouver beats in the suburb of Richmond instead.

In between these neighbourhoods (along Hastings Street) and east of them is the Downtown Eastside, an area known for its drug use, prostitution and homelessness. It's certainly walkable during the day, but some people may feel uncomfortable and it can be a dangerous area at night if you are not familiar with it. Other than cheap accommodation, there is little to attract the visitor so touring this area is not recommended.

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Gastown begins outside of Waterfront Station (on Cordova St), so the easiest way is to walk in. Water Street, its main drag, will be the first street on the left.

Chinatown is also easily accessible on foot, just head east on Pender Street. The Millennium Gate, at Pender and Taylor, marks the entrance to Chinatown but most of the action is a few blocks further east and along Keefer Street, one block south.

If travelling by car, Hastings Street is the major east-west street and connects with the Trans-Canada Highway.

Gastown and Chinatown are interesting places to wander around. Some of the oldest buildings in the city are found here and Gastown has been refreshed with distinctive lamps and paving stone streets. Perhaps not authentic, but a nice contrast to the glass and steel towers just a couple of blocks away.

• 🌍 Gastown. The oldest part of downtown. You will find cobble-paved boulevards and over-priced tourist traps selling every imaginable thing you can print "Vancouver" on. Popular with tourists are the Gastown Steam Clock, promoted as the only active steam clock in the world but in fact an electric clock that pumps steam, rather an underwhelming experience. The area is notorious for aggressive beggars-drug addicts who are quite unsettling. 
• 🌍 Dominion Building, 207 W Hastings St (Hastings & Cambie St, across from Victory Square). A distinctive red and mustard coloured building completed in 1910. It was the first steel-framed high-rise built in Vancouver and briefly was the tallest commercial building in the British Empire. 
• 🌍 Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden, 578 Carrall St, ☏ +1 604-662-3207. A Ming-dynasty style garden in Chinatown. Built in 1986 by Chinese craftsmen using traditional materials, tools, and techniques, this was the first classical garden built outside China. The gardens combine traditional Chinese buildings, plants, a small lake, and curved footpaths to create the illusion of a very big place within a single block. Tours are available. Compared to the city park next door, the differences are quiet but profound: more interesting materials, richer vistas, greater serenity. Adult $10, senior $9, student $8. 
• 🌍 Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Park, 578 Carrall St (Entries off Carrall St. (to left of paid Gardens entry) and off Columbia St.). Constructed by Vancouver-area designers at the same time as its classical garden neighbour, this public park shares the lake and the Chinese garden look. But this is a city park, and free to enter. Free. 
• 🌍 Gastown Steam Clock, corner of Water & Cambie St. A clock that tries to look old and belches steam every 15 minutes may not be the most stunning landmark, but it has an endearing charm in a kitschy kind of way. It was built to take advantage of the steam vents that are all over downtown Vancouver, but it never lived up to its billing and now relies on electricity to count the minutes. It is one of a kind though and remains a photographic pilgrimage for thousands of Vancouver tourists. 
• 🌍 Sam Kee Building, 8 W Pender St. This two-storey building is the world's narrowest commercial building according to the Guinness Book of World Records, with a width of just 4'11" (1.5 m) at its base. Its slim size is due to the city expropriating most of the lot to widen the street. The owner went ahead and built anyway, and businesses have been operating out of its confines since 1913. If you do take a look, the perspective is better from the other (north) side of Pender. 
• 🌍 Sun Tower, 100 W Pender St (corner of Beatty & Pender St). A high-rise building built in the Beaux-Arts style. It was completed in 1912 and was the tallest building in the British Empire at the time. The tower is noted for its dome (painted to look like copper cladding) and its exterior was used in the TV series, Smallville. 
• 🌍 Vancouver Police Museum, 240 Cordova St E, ☏ +1 604-665-3346. M-Sa 9AM-5PM. Exhibits on the history of Vancouver's police, unusual weapons that have been confiscated and notable Vancouver crimes. There are also a number of programs and activities geared towards kids. Adult $7, senior or student $5. 
• 🌍 Victory Square, Hastings & Cambie St. A small park covering one city block. It has the cenotaph commemorating the dead from World War I and is the site of Vancouver's Remembrance Day ceremonies. 

• Chinese New Year. Because there is such a strong Chinese population in the city, the Lunar New Year period is often one of the most exciting and colourful in the city. There is usually a parade in Chinatown and many of the public schools usually have a day off on Chinese New Year. You can also catch celebrations at Tinseltown mall (1 minute from Stadium Skytrain station), and in Richmond at the International Buddhist Temple. There, visitors can experience Chinese New Year festivities with traditional snacks and foods, auspicious flower arrangements, Chinese calligraphy and exciting raffles. 

• 🌍 Chinatown. A great place for shopping for groceries and some asian products. Located primarily between Columbia St to the west, East Pender St to the north, Gore Ave to the east, and East Georgia St to the south. (updated Oct 2023)
• 🌍 Oomomo, 88 W Pender St, ☏ +1 604-682-8073. M-W Sa 11AM-8PM, Th F 11AM-9PM, Su 11AM-7PM. This Japanese dollar store is the anchor of the International Village Shopping Centre. Has a surprisingly diverse (candy, kitchen supplies, stationary, electronics, etc.) selection of cute Japanese things. A fun browse. $1-3. (updated Mar 2020)
• 🌍 Chinatown Night Market, 100 & 200 block Keefer St. F-Su in the summer 6:30-11PM. Styled after Asian marketplaces these very popular nights have all kinds of stuff for sale. Watch out for the cheap imitation knock-offs that are commonly available. 
• 🌍 The Chinese Tea Shop, 101 E Pender St (corner of East Pender & Columbia in Chinatown), ☏ +1 604-633-1322. Noon-6PM. Visit the specialty tea boutique, to purchase specialty teas such as oolong, green, white tea, black and pu-erh, as well as learn about the finer points of Gong Fu Cha and tea culture. 
• 🌍 John Fluevog, 65 Water St, ☏ +1 604-688-6228. A shoe shop with interesting architecture that is built with glass panels between the two walls of an alleyway. Fine shoes. 
• 🌍 Roden Gray, 8 Water St, ☏ +1 604-689-7302. Daily noon-5PM. Boutique selling high-fashion goods. (updated Jan 2023)

While Chinatown might seem like a good place to get Chinese food, it has declined considerably since its heyday and today, most or the remaining restaurants are tourist traps serving mediocre food. If good authentic Chinese is what you are after, head to the suburb of Richmond instead, where a majority of the residents are ethnic Chinese.

• 🌍 Guilt and Company, 1 Alexander Street (downstairs, under Chill Winston), ☏ +1 604-288-1704. Tu-Th 5PM-1AM, F Sa 5PM-2AM, Su 7PM-midnight. Creative and artsy sort of bar. Features some unique beers on tap and a selection of board games; order cheese from the bar and play some giant Jenga. Often features indie rock performances. $6 pints, food $6-20. (updated Feb 2023)
• 🌍 Lamplighter, 210 Abbott St, ☏ +1 604-681-6666. One part sports bar and one part club gives this bar a dual personality which works for some and not for others. The crowd is a more mixed and mellow than Shine or Fabric. $10 cover after 10PM. 
• 🌍 MIA Nightclub, 350 Water St (down the stairs at the corner of Water & Cordova Streets), ☏ +1 604-408-4321. Smallish dance club with a variety of music, depending on the night. (updated Feb 2023)
• 🌍 The Alibi Room, 157 Alexander St, ☏ +1 604-623-3383. Tu-Th 5PM-Late, F 5PM-1AM, Sa 10AM-1AM, Su 10AM-3PM. Offers an array of microbrews with an emphasis on British Columbia breweries, as well as a diverse food menu. (updated Jan 2023)
• 🌍 The Black Frog, 108 Cambie St, ☏ +1 604-602-0527. M-Th 11:30AM-1AM, F 11:30AM-2AM, Sa noon-2AM, Su noon-midnight. Smallish pub with some character. Good spot for pre-activity drinks or if you want somewhere not as loud. Also has a small but well prepared selection of burgers, sandwiches and fish and chips that are an excellent value. Meal $10-18. (updated Feb 2023)
• 🌍 The Blarney Stone, 216 Carrall St, ☏ +1 604-687-4322. Su-Th 11AM-2AM, F Sa 11AM-3AM. Bit of an Irish bar, bit of a dance club. Attracts a 20-something crowd most nights. Irish showband Killarney are a regular feature. Cover is $8-10. (updated Feb 2023)
• 🌍 The Cambie, 300 Cambie St (downstairs from the Cambie hostel), ☏ +1 604-684-6466. Frontier-looking unpretentious bar with well-worn wooden benches and tables. Popular with the younger crowd and the nearby backpackers hostel. Lots of rock music and no dance floor. Pitchers are amongst the cheapest in Vancouver. (updated Feb 2023)

Accommodation in Gastown and Chinatown is of the budget variety, primarily hostels. If you are planning to stay in a hostel, it is probably better to ensure it is located west of Main Street and caters mainly to backpackers (tourists on a budget). If you are planning to find a cheap (significantly less than $90) hotel in this area, it is likely to be in the "East Side", infamous for its prostitution and drug problems.

• 🌍 Cambie Hostel - Gastown, 300 Cambie St (at Cordova St), ☏ +1 604-684-6466, toll-free: +1-877-395-5335. 
• 🌍 Columbia Hotel, 303 Columbia St, ☏ +1 604-683-3757. Hostel accommodations in an old historical building in the middle of Gastown. $39+. (updated Feb 2023)
• 🌍 Patricia Hotel, 403 E Hastings St (at Dunlevy), ☏ +1 604-255-4301, toll-free: +1-888-926-1017. Very basic hotel that is a good option if you want something cheap and don't mind a small room in a bad part of town. The rooms are tidy and come with small TVs and private bathrooms. Wifi is available but signal strength varies. Room options range from Budget and Basic rooms with one double bed to Quad Rooms with two queen beds and views of the city. There is a pub on the ground floor that sometimes has live music. $69-135 July-Sept, $40-79 Oct-Apr. (updated Feb 2023)
• 🌍 St Clair Hotel Hostel, 577 Richards Street, V6B 2Z5, ☏ +1 604-684 3713, info@stclairvancouver.com. Check-in: 2PM, check-out: 1AM. The hotel-hostel is a heritage-listed building, built-in 1911 by Captain Henry Pybus and architect Samuel Birds. It was the first concrete building in Vancouver, and was built as accommodation for railway and ocean-going passengers from both Pacific and Atlantic locations. The nautical theme has been preserved. $29.50. (updated Feb 2020)

Chinatown becomes mostly deserted after 5PM, and it filled with mostly homeless people at night. Most homeless people are harmless; they will likely only ask you for money and move on to the next person if you refuse, but you might still want to avoid walking through Chinatown in the evening and night if that makes you uncomfortable.