Wairarapa

The Wairarapa district is the south-eastern corner of New Zealand's North Island. Separated from the Wellington metropolitan area by the Rimutaka Ranges, its proximity and good transport connections with the capital make it a popular place for Wellington day-trippers and commuters.

The Rimutaka and Tararua ranges shelter the region from the prevailing westerly winds, resulting in a warm, dry climate. While the region is mostly suited for general sheep and dairy farming, horticulture and viticulture have been established in places.

Cities

Other destinations

Understand

Wairarapa takes it name from Lake Wairarapa, the largest lake in the region. According to local Maori legend, the lake was discovered by Haunui while chasing his cheating wife Wairaka and her lover across the lower North Island. While he rested at the top of the Rimutaka Range, he looked down towards the lake to see it glistening with the reflection of the sun, hence he named the lake Wairarapa (glistening waters). Haunui also named the region's five major rivers - Tauwharenikau (corrupted to Tauherenikau), Waiohine, Waingawa, Waipoua and Ruamahunga.

Commuting between Wairarapa and Wellington began after the opening of the 8.8-km Rimutaka rail tunnel in November 1955, and today over 1000 people make the daily commute "through the hill" to work in Wellington. Before the tunnel opened, trains ran over the unique Rimutaka Incline Railway, which due to its steepness required special Fell locomotives and brakevans that gripped onto a third centre rail for adhesion and braking. Trains up the incline often required five locomotives and had a top speed of just 8 km/h. The old railway formation now forms the Rimutaka Rail Trail, a popular walking and cycling route over the Rimutaka Ranges.

Visitor information

Get in

By car

State Highway 2 passes through the Wairarapa, connecting it with Wellington and the Hutt Valley in the south, and with the Hawke's Bay in the north. Between the Hutt Valley and the Wairarapa, SH 2 passes over the Rimutaka Range via a narrow and winding 15 km road; take extra care as it is one of the country's worst crash blackspots.

From Palmerston North, take State Highway 3 via the Manawatu Gorge, then turn right onto State Highway 2 at Woodville. An alternative route is the 'Pahiatua Track' (actually a fairly good sealed road), which leaves State Highway 57 at Aokautere in southeastern Palmerston North and joins with State Highway 2 in Pahiatua.

By train

The Wairarapa Connection is a regular train service to and from Wellington. Primarily for commuters from the Wairarapa to Wellington, it runs 5 services daily each way on weekdays and 2 services daily each way on weekends and public holidays. Seating is strictly on a first-come-first-served basis, and evening peak services are often standing-room only during the school holidays. There is a luggage compartment in the northernmost carriage and bicycles will be carried for free (space permitting). The train stops at Featherston, Woodside (for Greytown), Matarawa, Carterton and at 3 stations in Masterton. Purchase tickets at the station ticket office (if one is open) or on board the train.

By bus

Tranzit Coachlines operates a Palmerston North to Masterton service five days a week (Tu-F and Su). The bus departs the InterCity terminal in The Square, Palmerston North, and stops at Ashhurst, Woodville, Pahiatua, Eketahuna, Pukaha Mount Bruce (booked passengers only), and Masterton.

By cycle

Cycling from Wellington is difficult due to the Remutaka Ranges being in the way. The usual route is over the Remutaka Ranges via the Remutaka Rail Trail, which is largely easy on the Hutt Valley side, but is steeper and more gravelly on the Wairarapa side making a mountain bike a necessity (however, a competent rider should have little difficulty with this route). Following State Highway 2 is also possible, but the Remutaka section is narrow, steep and winding, and also has a large volume of vehicular traffic; this option is best avoided by cyclists for these reasons. It's also possible to cycle around the Remutaka Ranges along the South Coast section of the Remutaka Rail Trail from Orongorongo or Wainuiomata to Ocean Beach, but this is a very remote and rugged route requiring a mountain bike in excellent condition, and a fit and experienced cyclist. This option should not be attempted in foul weather as some river crossings may be impassable after heavy rain, and southerlies can be especially cold and ferocious. (As of May 2022, the South Coast routing is closed due to a slip.) Ultimately, the best option is probably not to cycle from Wellington at all, and to simply put your bicycle and yourself on the train.

Approaching from the north is more simple, as State Highway 2 can be followed from southern Hawke's Bay. Do note that this route carries a significant volume of traffic. An alternative option is the former State Highway 52 route between Waipukurau and Masterton, which is far quieter but extremely remote in parts.

By plane

There have been no air services to the Wairarapa since February 2014.

Get around

A car is probably a good idea if you intend to get out of town. The country is reasonably flat so bicycling is practical for short distances.

There is a regular bus service linking Masterton with Carterton, Greytown, Featherston and Martinborough. Buses also link Martinborough with trains at Featherston and Greytown with trains at Woodside. They do not operate on Sundays or public holidays.

See
  • 🌍 Pukaha Mount Bruce National Wildlife Centre, 85379 State Highway 2, Mount Bruce (30 km north of Masterton, 11 km south of Eketahuna), ☏ +64 6 375 8004. Daily 09:00-16:30. A good place to see kiwis and kaka (bush parrot), and plenty of other native birds. Inside the kiwi house is Manukura, the only white-feathered kiwi in the world! Adult $20, child $6. 
  • 🌍 Stonehenge Aotearoa, 51 Ahiaruhe Road, Ahiaruhe (12 km east of Carterton, follow signs from High Street South), ☏ +64 6 377 1600. A full sized working model of an astronomical stone circle, like Stonehenge, constructed from modern materials, opened in February 2005. Guided tours take place on weekends and holidays but you need to book in advance. 
  • 🌍 Fell Locomotive Museum, Cnr Fitzherbert St (SH 2) & Lyons St, Featherston, ☏ +64 6 308 9379. Daily 10:00-16:00. Home to H199, the only remaining Fell locomotive in the world and one of six Fell locomotives that worked the Rimutaka Incline between Wellington and Wairarapa for 77 years (1878-1955). Make sure you go under the locomotive to see the four wheels that gripped onto the third centre rail and helped the train climb the incline. Also on display is a fully-restored Fell brakevan, plus photos, video footage and memorabilia from the Incline's operating days. Adults $6, children $2. 
  • 🌍 Putangirua Pinnacles, off Cape Palliser Rd (13 km south of Lake Ferry Rd turnoff). One of New Zealand's best examples of badlands erosion, these earth pillars tower above the Putangirua Stream. Part of the Paths of the Dead sequence from The Lord of the Rings: The Return of the King was filmed here. The Pinnacles lookout is a 90-minute return walk from the carpark and DOC campsite. 
  • 🌍 Cape Palliser, end of Cape Palliser Rd (37 km south of Lake Ferry Rd turnoff). The southernmost point of the North Island (it's further south than Blenheim in the South Island). Climb the 258 steps up to the red-and-white-striped Cape Palliser Lighthouse (1897) for magnificent views along the coast and across Cook Strait to the South Island. Look out for the North Island's largest fur seal colony on the coastal rocks along the road to the lighthouse. 

Do

Carterton is a short drive from a number of tramping tracks in the Tararua Ranges. There is great swimming in the local pools and many surrounding rivers.

  • 🌍 Borderlandz Paintball (Borderlandz), 516 Belvedere Road, Carterton (5km west of Carterton), ☏ +64, toll-free: 0508 786 822. Open weekends. Wairarapa's only paintball field with 3 epic playing areas, bunkers, trenches and tunnels. Low Impact Kids paintball available. By appointment only. From $40 per player. (updated Mar 2018)

Eat

The major towns in the Wairarapa all have a supermarket or community store. Most major national fast food chains have a presence in Masterton.

Drink
  • 🌍 Tui Brewery, State Highway 2, Mangatainoka (cnr Kohinui Road, 4 km north of Pahiatua), ☏ +64 6 376 0815. Daily 10:00-16:00. One of New Zealand's better known beer brands, thanks to its viral marketing and its sometimes controversial "Yeah Right" billboards. Visit the Tui museum and check out the shop full of Tui-branded merchandise. Tastings are available at $20 for 3 beers, and you get to keep the glass. Tours of the 1931 heritage-listed brew tower (which was built without stairs or a lift!) and the modern brewery are available, but must be booked in advance. 

Wine

Wairarapa is a small wine-growing area compared to Marlborough and Hawke's Bay, but its boutique wines (especially its Pinot Noir) ranks highly in national and international wine awards. The main growing area is around Martinborough, with smaller areas further north at Gladstone (east of Carterton) and north of Masterton. Pinot Noir and Sauvingnon Blanc are the two main varieties produced, but the region also has a significant amount of aromatic wines such as Pinot Gris and Riesling.

  • 🌍 Martinborough Wine Centre, 6 Kitchener St (SH 53), Martinborough, ☏ +64 6 306 9040. Daily 10:00-17:00 (winter); Su-Th 10:00-17:00, F Sa 10:00-19:00 (summer). Provides information on local wineries and offers a comprehensive range off local and regional wines to taste and buy. Cycle hire is available for $40 per day (bookings essential). 

Stay safe

Wairarapa Hospital in Masterton provides the region's accident and emergency service.

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