Wakkanai

The city was established in the 17th century as a frontier trading post to the aboriginal Ainu people who used to inhabit much of Hokkaido. It prospered through trade and as a strategic outpost in the far flung northern reaches of the empire, in the century that followed. The modern city was established in 1900, and when Japan recaptured parts of Sakhalin Island after the Russo-Japanese war of 1905, it became the main transit point to the Karafuto prefecture established there with regular steam-liner operations to Otomari (today Korsakov), a status that only increased when the Sōya railway was finally extended here in 1926. With the loss of Sakhalin in the aftermath of World War II, the town's fortunes faded; it reverted to being little more than a military post during the Cold War, home to some American troops.

While the population is still dwindling, the end of the Cold War might change Wakkanai's fortunes once more: a regular ferry route to Sakhalin was reopened in the 1990s, and trade and ties with Russia are slowly but steadily increasing.

The average summer temperature is around 20°C (68°F), but it can get cold at night, so you may need to bring more than a summer jacket. In the depths of winter the thermometer frequently drops below zero, but the −20°C (-4°F) you see inland or across the Okhotsk bay in Russia are extreme occurrences here, as the air is heated by sea currents. The very strong winds can make it feel like Siberia, though.

• The city government's official site has a good Japanese-only tourism section.

• The local tourist associations has a Japanese-only guide site, covering Rishri and Rebun islands too. (Clicking on "languages" lead to the prefecture's multilingual site.)

• 🌍 Wakkanai Airport (WKJ  ^IATA) (10 km (6.2 mi) southeast of the city). It fields regular flights from Sapporo and Tokyo (Haneda), with additional summer-only services from Nagoya and Kansai. All flights to the airport are operated by ANA - All Nippon Airways. The airport is 20 minutes away from Wakkanai station by bus. 

The JR Soya Main Line (Soya Honsen) connects Wakkanai to Asahikawa. There are two stations within the city limits: 🌍 Wakkanai(station code W80) and 🌍 Minami-Wakkanai(W79) to the south.

Wakkanai sees limited train service, with only six arrivals and seven departures per day. Of these, three round-trips are limited express services: The once-daily Soya which runs directly to and from Sapporo (5 hr 10 min, ¥10,450), and the twice-daily Sarobetsu to and from Asahikawa (3 hr 45 min, ¥8,300, change to either a Lilac or Kamui limited express service at Asahikawa for Sapporo). There are no extra charges for these trains with the Japan Rail Pass and / or Hokkaido Rail Pass.

Several buses operated by Soya Bus run between Wakkanai and Sapporo daily: the journey takes around 6 hours and costs ¥6000, advance ticket purchase or reservation is (at least in theory) necessary, ☏ +81 011 241-0241 (Sapporo) or ☏ +81 0162 22-3114 (Wakkanai) to make your reservation. One of the departures is a red-eye service, which might be a useful way to save some money if you're one of those who can sleep anywhere. There is also a single daily round trip to Asahikawa. While this is a cheap and convenient option in summer, during the winter suspension or delays are commonplace, and snowstorms frequently close the highway altogether.

The ferry terminal, directly east of the train station, hosts frequent (in summer) connections to the National Park islands of Rebun and Rishiri; there are also a few shops and restaurants and a tourist information desk in the building.

All ferries out of Wakkanai are operated by the Heartland Ferry Company.

Right across from the domestic terminal is the international terminal. Heartland Ferry has biweekly departures for Korsakov, on Sakhalin Island, Russia (5½ hours, ¥24,000 one way). You will need a Russian visa before you buy the ticket. You must also buy your ticket at least two days prior to departure: you will not be allowed to purchase a ticket the day of departure. Service is suspended Oct–Apr due to sea ice. See our Russia to Japan via Sakhalin itinerary.

To purchase a seat on the ferry to Russia:

1. Go to the domestic terminal, across the street from the international terminal.
2. Ask at the front desk for an English speaker, there may be someone. To be sure of being understood, have Sakhalin written in as many ways as possible: 樺太 (kanji), からふと (hiragana), サハリン (katakana), Сахалин (Russian).
3. Ask for a ticket to Russia, point at your multi-lingual piece of paper, and give them your passport. You will fill out a form which will be sent to their offices in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. Then you just come back two days later to pick up your ticket. (While it may be possible to do the preliminary paperwork over the phone or by e-mail, don't count on it!)

Alternatively, have a Japanese speaker call and ask for availability. You will then fill out and fax an application form to 011-233-2783 or 0162-23-6730. They will then fax back a confirmation form, which is in Japanese and English.

• 🌍 Wakkanai Kōen (稚内公園). is a large park spreading over the grassy hills west of the town, offering some commanding views over the area. The rope-way has been closed, but it is only a short walk to the top beginning at the Hokumon Shrine (北門神社). There are some nice walking trails to explore, and over 4,000 wild cherry trees grow in the park if you are here during Hanami (mid-May). To get an even better view you can ascend the 70-m-high Motoe Hiraku Centennial Memorial Tower (開基百年記念塔・北方記念館) 09:00-17:00 (Jul-Sep until 21:00) for a 360° panoramic view of the cape, the expansive Sarobetsu Plain, the Rishiri Volcano and even sometimes to Sakhalin in Russia. Below is the two-story Northern Memorial Hall, which has a collection of documents relating to the local area and Sakhalin. In the weird, small Ice House (ゲストハウス氷雪) you can take a footbath in ice, if that tickles your fancy. (updated Jan 2020)

The park also has an eclectic collection of statues and monuments - none of them are particularly pretty, but they sometimes come with interesting stories: the Statue of Nine Women (九人の乙女の碑) is a memorial to the 9 women working at a Sakhalin telegraph station who committed suicide when they learned about the fall of Karafuto (Sakhalin) to Russian troops. Less dramatic is the Ice and Snow Gate (氷雪の門), a bronze statue of a woman facing the direction of Karafuto, longing for the home she was forced to leave behind. Without the nationalistic undertones is the Monument to Taro and Jiro (南極観測樺太犬記念碑), two Siberian huskies that an Antarctic expedition was forced to leave behind. When their trainer returned with another expedition the following year to bury his beloved dogs, much to everyone's surprise he was warmly greeted by the two dogs, who had survived a whole Antarctic winter. There are some more details of their story in the Youth Science Center, and their story is detailed in the 1983 film Nankyoku Monogatari.

• 🌍 Sōya Misaki (宗谷岬) (about 30 km (19 mi) northeast of Wakkanai across the Soya Bay). This is the northernmost point of Hokkaido, and aside from a small inaccessible and uninhabited island it is also the northernmost point of Japan. Naturally the Japanese have gone out of their way to commemorate this fact with the largely uninspiring Northernmost Point Monument (日本最北端の地の碑), a gray concrete triangle engraved with accomplishments. Right next to it is a Statue of Mamiya Rinzō (間宮林蔵の銅像), a Japanese explorer from the Edo period famous for his explorations and mapping of Karafuto (Sakhalin), and discovering it was an island. Nearby you also find an Old Naval Watchtower (旧海軍望楼) dating back to the conflicts over control of Sakhalin during the 1904 Russo-Japanese War. (updated Jan 2020)

• In the hills behind the cape near the lighthouse, there are several additional monuments. The Tower of Prayer (大韓航空機撃墜事件の慰霊塔) is a memorial to those who lost their lives when Soviet fighters shot down Korean Air flight KL007 over Moneron Island in 1983. Fittingly right next to it, you find the Bell for World Peace (世界平和の鐘) a replica of a bell located in the garden opposite the United Nations Building in New York.
• There is also the Wahoo Peace Memorial dedicated to the 1943 sinking of the famous American submarine USS Wahoo off the coast by Japanese air and sea forces. The memorial commemorates the Wahoo's crew who was entirely lost and to the Japanese who lost their lives as a result of her attacks.

• 🌍 Breakwater Dome (港北防波堤ドーム), 1-1 Kaiun (開運1丁目1) (North Wharf, 5 min from the station north along the harbor). Built in the 1930s, this odd-looking breakwater is a 427-m (1,401-ft) arched hallway supported by 70 Roman-style pillars. It rises over 13 m up in the air to provide some protection for the strong winds in the area. It looks entirely out of place, but makes for some good photographs. In the summer months (Jul-Aug) it's sometimes converted to a lively market with BBQ and karaoke. Free. 

• Daisuke Matsuzaka Museum (松坂大輔スタジアム), 1-6-33 Wakkanai Port (稚内市港1丁目6-33) (15-min walk south of the station, along route 40), ☏ +81 162 23-5518. 10:00-17:00. A museum dedicated to the city's most famous offspring, Matsuzaka Daisuke, starting pitcher for the Boston Red Sox - baseball is huge in Japan, as this museum is a testament to. Videos, photos and other memorabilia. If you are not a fan, the interactive "Fastball LIVE" is probably the most interesting part, experience how it's like to have a 156 km/h ball thrown right at you. ¥200. 
• 🌍 Bakkai Port Seal Observatory (抜海港 ゴマフアザラシの越冬), Bakkai fishing port (抜海港) (take the local train 2 stations S to the Bakkai halt (抜海駅, W78), and walk from there (15–20 min)). Feb, Nov-Mar: 09:00-16:00. About 300 seals have decided that the concrete boulders of this small fishing port was a good home. Surprisingly, they seem to get along fine with the fishermen. The city administration has put up a small rudimentary observation hut with windows and a video feed, so the many guests now pouring in don't disturb the seals. Self-service tea is provided free of charge, nice touch. Free. (updated Feb 2023)
• Lake Ōnuma Bird Observatory (大沼バードハウス), Koetoi Village (声問原野) (E of town, halfway to the airport along the Soya National Hwy, turn right at the intersection after Koetoi Postoffice. The JR bus towards the airport stops in Koetoi), ☏ +81 162 26-2965. Feb, Mar-Nov 09:00-17:00. Lake Onuma, a small lake east of the city, is a migratory stop for the Tundra Swan (Cygnus columbianus) on their way to or from Siberia, sometimes numbering tens of thousands. There is a Swan Festival (大沼白鳥まつり) held here in May. Other species that can be observed here include Herons and White-fronted Geese. The city has set up a log cabin with a large platform, an observation room and a small exhibition, and there are a free telescope and binoculars available to loan. Sometimes nature guides are present to answer questions, if you speak Japanese. 
• 🌍 Noshappu Cold Water Aquarium (稚内市立ノシャップ寒流水族館), 2-2-17 Noshappu (ノシャップ 2丁目2-17) (take the Soya bus from the station about 15 min N to the 'Noshappu 2-chome' stop), ☏ +81 162 23-6278. Apr-Oct 09:00-17:00, Nov-Mar 10:00-16:00. Next to the Science Center. Fittingly for Japan's northernmost aquarium, it's centered around 2 large outdoor tanks with seals and penguins. The indoor area is rather smallish with the two main tanks containing species from the oceans south and north ecosystems respectively - the balloon fish is kawaii! Feeding shows twice per day in the outdoor pools. ¥400. 
• 🌍 Wakkanai Youth Science Center (稚内市青少年科学館), 2-2-16 Noshappu (ノシャップ2丁目2-16) (same route as to the Noshappu Cold Water Aquarium), ☏ +81 162 22-5100. Apr-Oct 09:00-17:00, Nov-Mar 10:00-16:00, closed on M. Inadvertently cute museum, it opened in 1974 - and it shows - since many of the exhibits are really retro. The science section set up to teach kids about the "latest" progress in science you can skip, it's out of date, and any kids won't understand the Japanese anyway. More interesting is the Arctic section with details of Japanese exploration of Sakhalin and the Arctic regions. A whole hall is dedicated to the famous (in Japan) Taro and Jiro (See the Wakkanai park entry). Also of some interest is the Planetarium with shows 2-3 times per day. ¥150 (¥50 for just the planetarium). 
• 🌍 Wakkanai Karafuto Museum, 1-6 Minato. 10:00-17:00. (updated Jan 2020)

• 🌍 Yamuwakkanai Onsen Minato-no-yu (ヤムワッカナイ温泉 港のゆ), 1-6-28 Wakkanai Port (稚内市港1丁目6-28) (10–15 min walk S of the railway station along the harbour), ☏ +81162731126. 10:00-22:00 daily. The most expensive and exclusive of the options, boasts some large open-air baths overlooking the sea. ¥1000. (updated Feb 2023)
• Suimukan Pool (温水プール水夢館), 1-2-3 Chuō (中央1丁目2-3) (in the harbour, a 5-min walk from the train stn towards the breakwater dome and the ANA hotel), ☏ +81 162-23-8100. May-Oct: Tu-F 10:00-18:00, Sa Su 10:00-21:00; Nov-Apr: Tu-Th 10:00-21:00, F 13:00-21:00, Su 10:00-18:00. Not so much an onsen, more of a traditional indoor swimming pool under an impressive double domed roof. A 25-m basin, waterslides, Jacuzzi and a gym. ¥800. 
• Wakkanai Onsen (稚内温泉), Fujimi (富士見4丁目1487番) (half an hour by bus (or around 7 km from the center) on the opposite side of the cape), ☏ +81 162-28-1160. The town's largest onsen sits on the west coast and would have had some impressive unobstructed views of Rishiri Mountain, were it not for a huge blunder from the architect, though it is still visible from parts of the bath. A few indoor pools, and some outdoor ones which are unfortunately fenced in by hedges. ¥600. 

• Hokumon Shrine Festival (北門神社例大祭, Hokumon Jinja Reitaisai)

• Wakkanai Youth Hostel (稚内ユースホステル), 3-9-1 Komadori (こまどり3丁目9-1) (from Minami stn head S, make a R across the tracks and follow the road until the end of the school and turn L), ☏ +81 162 23-7162, komadori@gray.plala.or.jp. Up on a hill with views over the city, nice big bathtub to splash in, and has some private western and Japanese style rooms (¥4200). Coin laundry. Really nice and homey feel but it's far from the ferry terminal. YIH members ¥2100, non-members ¥3360. (updated Jun 2023)

• Dormy Inn Wakkanai (ドーミーイン稚内), 2-7-13 Chuō (中央2丁目7-13) (continue straight ahead (W) across the traffic lights and make a R at the first intersection), ☏ +81 162 24-5489, in-wakkanai@dormy-hotels.com. Fairly large business hotel, which has a nice spa on the top floor, both indoors and outdoors with views over Wakkanai, which are free for guests. Small rooms, but no smaller than usual in Japan, and a great breakfast buffet. ¥4000–14,000, varies widely with the season. 
• 🌍 Wakkanai Grand Hotel (稚内グランドホテル), 2-13-11 Daikoku (大黒2丁目13−11) (1 min walk S of Minami-Wakkanai stn), ☏ +81 162 22-4141, wakkanai-grandhotel@s8.dion.ne.jp. Definitely not a pretty hotel, but a large section has been refurbished so it's not so bad on the inside. The hotel's private spa is nice, and they have a large restaurant and bar as well. ¥5500–9000. (updated Jun 2023)

• 🌍 Surfeel Hotel Wakkanai (サフィールホテル稚内), 1-2-2 Kaiun (開運1丁目2-2) (walk N for 2 min, hard to miss, it's the tallest building in town), ☏ +81 162 23-8111. The most upscale hotel in town, and also the most expensive. But you pay for the very good facilities and common areas, not the rooms which are fairly standard, although some with nice views over the sea or Wakkanai koen. The main restaurant is very good, and so is the complementary breakfast. ¥14,000–25,000.