Warrington

The Wærings were Saxons, so the place they lived was called Weringtun. It was the lowest place you could wade across the Mersey, and for centuries people hoisted their cloaks and tunics to do so. The ford was a mile upstream from the present town centre, so the medieval settlement lay east around St Elphin's church, and a bridge was first documented in 1285. It was a quiet market town until the 17th century. Then the Mersey was made navigable, and the Industrial Revolution powered the growth of Liverpool, Manchester and the corridor between. The Manchester Ship Canal opened in 1894 and enabled large freight vessels to sail 40 miles inland. Warrington developed through textiles and metal-bashing, especially the production of metal wire. It also had military facilities to the east around Risley and Birchwood, such as an RAF base and a munitions factory, best not sited next to residential areas.

This industrial corridor developed professional sports clubs in the 19th century, and Warrington was part of the faction that broke away from the rugby union in 1895. They did so for the right to recompense players for time and wages lost from regular jobs in mills and collieries and foundries. These clubs became the Rugby League, and Warrington have always played in the top tier - they're called "The Wire" for the town trade. The game in England remains concentrated in the northern industrial cities, but was successfully exported especially to Australia. In 1947 Australia returned the favour when Brian Bevan of Sydney NSW signed for the town club, and scored tries prolifically for the next 13 years.

The Mersey was the historic boundary between Lancashire and Cheshire, so Warrington north of the river was in Lancashire until 1975. Local government changes then risked making it an exclave, a detached part of the county, so it needed a new governance tier to relate to. "Anywhere except Liverpool! Not with those dreadful scallies!" was the popular verdict, so it was assigned to Cheshire — this is nominal, since the town is nowadays a free-standing metropolis. It's a typical post-industrial place, with retail parks populating former factories, and much brownfield. A good start has been made by re-greening along the river and canal, and to the east around Risley, but it's a work in progress.

Local information is available from Warrington Council.

All buses ply from the Interchange opposite Central station. Warrington's Own Buses is the main local operator: their timetables are posted on the TFGM Greater Manchester website.

WOB 19 runs hourly north to Winwick, Culcheth and Leigh (for Sports Village), and WOB 28A runs hourly to Risley, Culcheth and Leigh.

WOB X5 runs hourly east to Lymm and Altrincham. WOB 9A runs hourly south to Stretton and Northwich.

Driving around town is easy outside rush hour, unless there's been a smash on the motorway and traffic tries to divert through the centre. Central car parks are Golden Square Shopping Centre, the Market and Cockhedge, plus Riverside Retail Park.

Some 30 taxi firms serve the town. Those earning good reviews for helpful reliable service include Lymmited (+44 1925 393111), 242 Cars (+44 1925 242242), Direct Taxi (+44 1925 244244) and PR Cars (+44 1925 877877).

Taxis wait at Bank Quay and Central stations and at the bus station.

• 🌍 Warrington Town Hall, Sankey St WA1 1UH, ☏ +44 1925 443322. M-F 9AM-5PM. This was built in open fields in 1750 as a mansion for the Patten family. The perimeter wall and splendid Golden Gates were added in the 19th century when town grew to engulf it. (The gates were intended for the royal residence at Sandringham, but Queen Victoria took against them so they were going cheap.) The building is a busy council headquarters, but even if you're not here to pay your tax or complain about waste bin collections, you can look in on the public lobby. (updated Oct 2022)
• Palmyra Square 100 yards south of the Golden Gates is the most attractive part of town, with the museum, Parr Hall, Pyramid Arts Centre and many 19th century buildings.
• Warrington Museum & Art Gallery, Bold Street WA1 1LG (50 yards south of Palmyra Square), ☏ +44 1925 442399. W-Sa 10AM-4:30PM, Su 11AM-3PM. Museum founded in 1857, with local history, natural history, archaeology and art collections. Free. (updated Oct 2022)

• 🌍 St Elphin's Church, 129 Church St WA1 2TL, ☏ +44 1925 635020. Anglican parish church: the oldest parts are 14th-century, but most of it is from the 1860s, when the 281-ft (86-m) spire was added. (updated Oct 2022)
• St Mary's is the Roman Catholic church, on Smith St. It's an elegant Pugin building of 1877.
• Victoria Park is a pleasant riverside park with playing fields on Knutsford Road, half a mile southeast of town centre.
• 🌍 Warrington Transporter Bridge is the gaunt structure spanning the Mersey west of Bank Quay Station. With a span of 200 ft (61 m), it was used 1915-1964 to link two parts of a chemical and soap factory without obstructing river traffic on the Mersey. Railway wagons and later trucks were driven onto a gondola then lifted across. It's becoming derelict.
• Sankey Valley Park is south side of town in the long narrow strip between the St Helens canal and the Mersey. Lots of tracks for jogging or cycling.
• 🌍 Walton Hall and Gardens, Walton Lea Road, Higher Walton WA4 6SN, ☏ +44 1925 262908, waltonhallbookings@warrington.gov.uk. Daily Jul Aug: 8AM-6PM, Sep-Jun 8AM-5PM. The 19th-century manor house is now an event venue, no tours, you come for the gardens. These are free but you pay for parking and individual attractions, which include a children's zoo, crazy golf, 9-hole pitch and putt, bowls, putting green and children's play areas. Parking M-F £3, Sa Su £4. (updated Oct 2022)
• 🌍 Risley Moss is a raised peat bog. These once covered much of post-glacial Europe until drained in modern times. This one has been restored by raising the water levels, and is now a wetland nature reserve. Access is via Ordnance Road in Birchwood - a munitions factory formerly stood here.
• 🌍 Arley Hall: see Northwich for this 19th century mansion and gardens.

• What's on? Read Warrington Guardian, published weekly. The name is a nod to the Saxon Wærings, whose name denotes "ward, guard, guardian".
• 🌍 Warrington Wolves RLFC, Halliwell Jones Stadium, Winwick Road WA2 7NE, ☏ +44 1925 248885. "The Wire" (as they're called, never The Wolves) play rugby league (13-a-side) in Super League, England's top tier. The playing season is Feb-Sept. Their stadium (capacity 15,000) is 200 yards north of Central station. In 2022 the stadium hosted matches in the Rugby League World Cup, postponed from 2021. The women's team play in their top tier at Victoria Park at the southeast edge of town. (updated Sep 2023)
• Football: Warrington Town play soccer away down in the amateur leagues. The nearest pro clubs are Wigan and Bolton, but for top-tier games head to Manchester or Liverpool.
• Cinema: Cineworld is on Time Square in town centre. Odeon is on Westbrook retail park.
• Pyramid is a multi-use live entertainment venue on Palmyra Square, incorporating Parr Hall.
• Tenpin Warrington (formerly LA Bowl), 10 Chetham Court, Winwick Quay WA2 8RF, ☏ +44 871 222 3675. Daily 10AM-midnight. Large entertainment complex with bowling, music, arcade games, bumper cars, food and drink. On-site pub with a big screen for TV sport. (updated Oct 2022)
• North West Face, St Ann's Church, Winwick Rd WA2 7NE (100 yards north of rugby stadium), ☏ +44 1925 650022. M-F 10AM-10PM, Sa Su 10AM-6PM. Climbing centre inside the old St. Anns Church. (updated Oct 2022)
• Golf: nearby courses are Warrington GC, Walton Hall, Antrobus GC, Alder Root, Poulton Park, Birchwood, Lymm GC and Fiddlers Ferry.
• Transpennine Cycle Trail stretches coast to coast from Southport to Hornsea. The local section eastbound approaches along the St Helens Canal towpath to Fiddlers Ferry and Sankey Valley Park, then loops south onto the Manchester Ship Canal towpath to Latchford Locks, then continues east through Lymm.
• 🌍 Gulliver's World, Shackleton Close, Old Hall WA5 9YZ, ☏ +44 1925 444888. Jun: Th-Su; Jul Aug: daily, Sep-Dec & Feb Mar: Sa Su, all 10:30AM-5PM. Theme park for ages 2 to 13. They have motel rooms, and room rates include admission. They have extended opening during half term. Assistance dogs only. Adult or child £28. (updated Oct 2022)
• Teamsport Go Karting, Unit 2 Bank Quay Trading Estate WA1 1PJ (200 yards south of Bank Quay station), ☏ +44 1925 732300. M-F 9AM-11PM, Sa Su 8AM-11PM. This is the largest indoor karting circuit in the UK. (updated Oct 2022)
• Apple Jack's is a farm-based play park open April-Sept. There's a maize maze in mid-summer, but no animals on show. It's five miles south on B5356 near Stretton.

• Golden Square is the mall behind the bus station with some 120 stores. Hatters Row is its extension east, and Cockhedge is another 200 yards east.
• Riverside Retail Park is southeast edge of the centre beside the Mersey.
• The Market, open daily, has a food hall and other small shops under cover.
• Junction Nine is a retail park a mile north of town on Winwick Rd A49.
• Gemini Retail Park is two miles north of town along M62.

• The Friar Penketh is a JD Wetherspoons on Friars Gate in town centre.
• The Looking Glass on Buttermarket is no longer part of Wetherspoons, and customers say it's gone to the dogs.
• Barley Mow at 29 Old Market Place is a trad old pub with good food, open Su-Th 10AM-10PM, F Sa 10AM-midnight.
• The Tavern is a sports bar at 25 Church St, open M-F 3-11PM, Sa Su noon-midnight.
• The Warrington Rodney is next to the rugby stadium and has rooms.
• The Blue Bell in Golden Gate Shopping Centre is a trad pub with food open M-Sa 9:30AM-10PM, Su 9AM-10PM.
• The Postern Gate on St Austins Lane has live TV sport. It's open Su-Th noon-midnight, F Sa noon-2:30AM.
• Borough Arms at 120 Buttermarket St is open Su-Th noon-midnight, F Sa noon-1AM.
• The White Hart at 56 Sankey Street has bar food and upstairs gigs. It's open Su-Th 11:30AM-11PM, F Sa 11AM-1AM.
• The London Bridge is a family-friendly pub south of the Ship Canal at 163 London Rd, Appleton Thorn, open daily noon-11PM.
• Ferry Tavern in Penketh is on the ribbon of land between the Mersey and the canal. It's by the marina and on the Trans Pennine Trail, a good stop-off for cyclists, open Tu-Th Su noon-11PM, F Sa noon-midnight.
• Reflex & Babylon, 65 Bridge St, WA1 2HH, ☏ +44 1925 630047. Th-Sa 10PM-3AM. Nightclub with 1980s style and playlist. (updated Oct 2022)
• Brewery: Coachhouse produces various ales. No tours.
• Distillery: Quintessential Brands in Birchwood make gin and other spirits. No tours.

• Travelodge Warrington, Leigh Street WA1 1UZ (200 yards west of Central station), ☏ +44 871 984 6180. Convenient location but tatty and smelly. B&B double £85. (updated Oct 2022)
• 🌍 Village Hotel, 110 Centre Park Square WA1 1QA, ☏ +44 1925 377540. Busy functional sort of place, feels like an airport hotel. B&B double £80. (updated Oct 2022)
• Waterside Hotel (formerly Premier Inn), 1430 Centre Park Square WA1 1PR (facing Village Hotel), ☏ +44 1925 242692. Comfy budget hotel south of town centre. Now run by Greene King, and no longer part of Premier chain but similar style. B&B double £115. (updated Oct 2022)
• 🌍 Warrington Fir Grove Hotel (Best Western), Knutsford Old Rd, Grappenhall WA4 2LD, ☏ +44 330 028 3423. Budget hotel, tatty and service erratic. B&B double £120. (updated Oct 2022)
• 🌍 Premier Inn Warrington, Manchester Rd, Woolston WA1 4GB (M6 jcn 21), ☏ +44 333 321 9124. Slick chain hotel by motorway 3 miles east of town. B&B double £105. (updated Oct 2022)
• Holiday Inn, Woolston Grange Rd, Woolston WA1 4PX (just north of Premier Inn at M6 jcn 21), ☏ +44 333 320 9355. Okay budget hotel, price and quality a notch lower than Premier Inn across the road. B&B double £80. (updated Oct 2022)
• 🌍 Travelodge Warrington Gemini, Gemini 8, Charon Way, Westbrook WA5 7YA (by M62 jcn 8), ☏ +44 871 984 6472. Basic but well-run place north by M62. B&B double £95. (updated Oct 2022)

Usual caution about traffic, safeguarding valuables, and steering clear of rowdy drunks.

As of Oct 2022, Warrington has 5G from all UK carriers, and its surrounds and approach roads have 4G.

• Knutsford is a well-preserved old market town.
• Quarry Bank Mill in Styal is a preserved cotton mill and estate near Manchester Airport.
• Liverpool and Manchester are both unmissable lively cities.
• Chester is an attractive old town that retains its ancient city walls.