Zambia

The territory of Northern Rhodesia was administered by the South Africa Company from 1891 until it was taken over by the UK in 1923. During the 1920s and 1930s, advances in mining spurred development and immigration. The name was changed to Zambia upon independence in 1964. In the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s, declining copper prices, one party democracy and a prolonged drought hurt the economy. Kenneth Kaunda, who led the fight for independence, instituted one party rule, which came to an end in 1991. Since then, Zambia has been a multi-party democracy.

Much of Zambia remains desperately poor, with GDP per capita on the order of US$600/year, and the bulk of Zambia's population lives on subsistence agriculture. The economy continues to revolve around copper, but after decades of mismanagement the industry is now doing better thanks to higher commodity prices and investments made after privatisation. The country's tourism sector has benefitted from the misfortunes of its neighbour Zimbabwe as tourists have flocked to the northern side of the Victoria Falls and Zambia's safaris.

As can be seen even from the bizarre squashed-peanut shape of the country, Zambia is one of the stranger legacies of colonialism, agglomerating a large number of different ethnic groups (73, according to the official count) and languages (20, plus dialects). Fortunately, with a long history of coexistence, significant migration around the country and similar Bantu-family languages, they all seem to get along pretty well and Zambia has been spared the violent interethnic strife that has decimated countries like Rwanda.

The Bemba are the largest ethnic group in Zambia, but they still form only about 20% of the population. The Bemba came from the Congo in the 16th century, and while their homelands are in the north and centre of the country, many have immigrated to Lusaka and the Copperbelt.

The Chewa, Ngoni and Nsenga tribes, all found in the east of the country, share the Nyanja language and form Zambia's second largest grouping with about 15%.

The Tonga, Ila and Lenje, known together as the Bantu Botatwe (Three Peoples), are a close runner-up with 15% of the population, concentrated in the west of the country in the Zambezi Valley and the plateaus to the north.

The Lozi in the far west (6%) are known for their craftwork, particularly basketry, and for a low-key (non-violent) secessionist movement calling for an independent Barotseland.

Other tribes in Zambia's patchwork include the Lala and Bisa (5%), the Kaonde (3%), the Mambwe and Lungu (3%), the Lunda (3%), the Lamba (2.5%) and the Luvale (2%), and 57 more. Despair not: the differences are not crucial for travelers, and locals will be happy to explain their traditions when needed, notably at festivals.

White Africans of English or Afrikaner descent (1.2%) are also visible, particularly in the more upscale areas of the major cities.

A highlight of any trip to Zambia is a visit to any of the many traditional festivals held throughout the country. Planning ahead can be tough though, as schedules are variable and not all are held yearly. Also, if you do manage to attend, bring along tolerance for heat, dust and crowds (increasingly drunk as the evening wears on) and patience for endless speeches by local functionaries like the Assistant Vice-Secretary for Fertilizer Co-operatives in Rutungu Sub-Province. On the plus side, any foreigners attending can usually sneak into the VIP stands, although you may get hassled for photo permits.

• Kazanga, Kaoma [Central Western Zambia] (June - August). The Kazanga ceremony is considered Zambia's oldest traditional ceremony having been celebrated by the Nkoya people for over 500 years. The ceremony celebrates and maintains Nkoya traditions of music, dance and many other ancient practices.
• Kuomboka, Lealui/Limulunga (Western Province, around Easter (March-April). The most famous of Zambia's festivals, this is the ceremonial migration of the Lozi king (litunga) from his dry season abode at Lealui to his wet season palace at Limulunga. Wearing an elaborate Victorian ambassador's costume, the litunga is taken by a flotilla of barges down the river, with musical accompaniment and, of course, much feasting at the destination.
• Ncwala, near Chipata, 24 February. A Ngoni festival to celebrate the first fruit of the season, where the Ngoni chief ceremonially tastes the fruit of the land, then spears a bull and drinks its blood.
• Kulamba, near Chipata, August. A Chewa thanksgiving festival known for its Nyau secret society dancers.
• Likumbi Lya Mize (August)

This is a popular August festival (The Day of Mize). This ceremony takes place at Mize, the official palace of Senior Chief Ndungu, about seven kilometres west of Zambezi Boma. People of the Luvale tribe gather to celebrate their cultural heritage, bringing displays of all types of handicrafts and spicing the event with traditional singing and dancing while the chief holds court. Mize is the official palace of Senior Chief Ndungu. The Makishi dancers recreate famous events from Luvale mythology, and local artists display their work.

• Livingstone Cultural & Arts Festival This was first held in 1994, this festival bring the traditional rulers from all the provinces of Zambia and visitors are also allowed with the knowledge of their culture in their tribe. This festival capture musicians, artist, poets, and dramatist.
• Shimunenga is a ceremony to show devotion to ancestors. The ceremony takes place on a full moon on weekends in September and October. The Ba-lla tribe celebrate this ceremony at Malla on the Kafue Flats.
• Umutomboko ceremony of the Lunda people in Luapula Province is held at Mwansabombwe to depict the coming to Zambia by the Lunda and Luba people from Kola in now Congo DR. The ceremony is held in July and is graced by Mwata Kazembe who performs a dance to commemorate the occasion.

If you look at a map, Zambia appears to be squarely in the tropics, but thanks to its landlocked and elevated position it does have distinct seasons that run as follows:

• Dry season — May to August. The coolest time of the year, with temperatures 24-28°C during the day, can drop as low as 7°C at night. Probably the best time of year to visit Zambia: come early in the dry season for birdwatching or to see Vic Falls at their biggest, or later when the bush has dried up for good game-spotting on safari.
• Hot season — September to November. Temperatures rocket up to a scorching 38-42°C and clouds of swirling dust make driving on dirt roads an asthmatic's nightmare. If you can take the heat, though, it's a good time for safaris as wildlife clusters around the few remaining watering holes.
• Wet season — December to April. Temperatures cool down to 32°C or so and, true to the name, there is a lot of rain — sometimes just an hour or two, sometimes for days on end. Unsealed roads become impassable muddy nightmares, and many safari lodges close.

Temperatures do fluctuate based on the altitude, if you are in a valley (such as the Zambezi) it will be warmer and if you are higher up (Kasama) it will be cooler.

• January 1 - New Year's Day
• March 12 - Youth Day
• Easter - moveable
• May 25 - African Freedom Day
• October 18 - National Prayer Day
• October 24 - Independence Day
• December 25 - Christmas

• Zambia Tourism website

Most Western visitors no longer need a visa to enter Zambia. Visa-free entry is also possible for some nationalities, including Malaysia, Singapore, Zimbabwe and South Africa. See the immigration department's web-site for the full list of visa-exempt nationalities. Current visa prices for anyone that needs a visa are US$50 for a single-entry and US$80 for a multiple-entry visa for all nationalities and is valid for 3 months;

• A day entry visa is available to any nationalities that need a visa at US$20, valid 24 hours
• Transit visas carry the same cost as a single entry visa, valid 7 days

There is also the 30-day US$50 Univisa which is good for both Zambia and Zimbabwe. The Univisa can only be obtained at Livingstone airport, Victoria falls land border, Kazangula Botswana border and Lusaka airport.

Do check with the nearest Zambian embassy for the latest information; the Zambian Embassy to the US has some information on their homepage, and getting the visa before arrival will reduce the uncertainty factor.

If you require a visa to enter Zambia, you might be able to apply for one at your embassy or consulate in the country where you legally reside if there is no Zambian diplomatic post. For example, the British embassies in Al Khobar, Amman, Belgrade, Budapest, Guatemala City, Helsinki, Jakarta, Jeddah, Kyiv, Prague, Pristina, Rabat, Riga, Riyadh, Rome, Sofia, Tallinn, Vienna, Warsaw and Zagreb accept Zambian visa applications (this list is not exhaustive). British diplomatic posts charge £50 to process a Zambian visa application and an extra £70 if the authorities in Zambia require the visa application to be referred to them. The authorities in Zambia can also decide to charge an additional fee if they correspond with you directly.

Lusaka Airport Customs and Immigration is unprepared to deal with lots of tourists. There are four lanes, segmented by: Zambian passport holders; Residents; Tourists; and Diplomats. Tellingly, the lane for tourists is sometimes unstaffed. Although there are many immigration officers present, in the Tourist lane is often unstaffed. Be prepared for all other lanes to empty before being processed.

For those who would prefer to leave the hassle to someone else, specialist safari holiday companies can arrange immigration for you.

Every country has its quirks, and one of Zamibia's is that you are not to possess even small amounts of a very common (and very safe) medication for treating allergy attacks: diphenhydramine. This is the active ingredient in Benadryl brand antihistamine pills, but it's also added to some other over-the-counter medications. Zambian Drug Enforcement Commission has arrested unwary tourists who had no idea that this everyday drug was restricted here.

Zambia's main international gateway is Lusaka airport (LUN ^IATA), which has flights to

• Istanbul with Turkish Airlines .
• Addis Ababa and Harare with Ethiopia airlines
• Dubai with Emirates Airlines
• Nairobi and Harare with Kenya airways
• Johannesburg with South Africa airways & Airlink
• Dar es Salaam with Air Tanzania
• Kigali with RwandAir
• Doha with Qatar airways.
• Lilongwe and Harare with Malawi airlines

For flights within Zambia, ProFlight airlines goes to Livingstone, near Victoria Falls, and Mfuwe, near South Luangwa National Park, Kasama, Ndola, Kitwe, Solwezi, and Lufupa in Kafue National Park.

Livingstone International Airport has direct flights to

• Johannesburg with Airlink, CemAir, Zambia Airways and Low-cost FlySafair
• Nairobi and Cape Town with Kenya airways.

Ndola International Airport has direct flights to

• Johannesburg with Airlink
• Nairobi with Kenya airways
• Addis Ababa with Ethiopian airlines
• Dar es Salaam with Air Tanzania

TAZARA trains run between Kapiri Mposhi, Zambia, and Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, on Tuesdays and Fridays. According to the schedule, the trip takes 38 hours. a train ride between Dar es Salaam and Zambia is a beautiful way to see the countryside at a reasonable price (US$30 for a first class sleeper and $25 for second).

Several important things to note about this trip, however:

• Bring water.
• Immigration officials stamp passports as soon as the train crosses the border — probably in the middle of the night. Naturally, this is also when thieves work. If you are riding in a first- or second-class cabin, be very careful when opening your door.
• If you miss the immigration official, they will either: turn you around and send you back to the border; or, arrange for a stamp, pending payment of a "special tax."
• Immediately upon crossing the border, the crew no longer accepts the currency of the country you just exited. In other words, if you are travelling from Lusaka to Dar es Salaam, the moment you cross the border, your Kwacha is no longer legal tender; you must use Shillings. It is, therefore, a good idea to exchange money before the journey — blackmarketeers along the railroad offer poor exchange rates.
• Do not leave valuables near windows, especially at stops.
• Normally the trains have restaurant cars in the middle of the train and in the end or a train saloon car with a bar. However, some stages of the journey, the restaurant and bar may have run out of stock.
• Reservations are not always honoured; someone may be sleeping on your bed already if you came onboard in the middle of the journey.
• In first class cabins, women and men can stay in same compartment, but in 2nd class they are female and male only.
• Tazara (Tanzania Zambia railways) were built with Chinese help and labour in the 1970s. Wagons were brought from China, therefore they are of a high standard, however. maintenance has been lacking somewhat in the last couple of decades.
• The last stop in Zambia is in the middle of nowhere, a small town named Kapiri Mposhi. Plenty of minibuses are eager to carry you to Lusaka, it's about a 2-3 hour trip. The first town that deserves that name on the way to Lusaka from Kapiri is Kabwe (it is rated among 5 most polluted place on earth due to mining!)

The 2nd class sleeper train fare from Kapiri Mposhi to the Tanzanian Border at Tunduma is 135 Kwacha. The journey is 883 km (549 miles).

Via Zimbabwe/Victoria Falls: trains in Zimbabwe run from Bulawayo to Victoria Falls. You can take a taxi or hike 13 km across the border at the Victoria Falls Bridge to Livingstone station in Zambia and catch a Zambia Railways train to Lusaka and the Copperbelt connecting with the Tazara railway in Kapiri Mposhi.

Vehicles drive on the left side of the road in Zambia.

There are many ways to get into Zambia by car, but the most popular include:

• through Livingstone (in the south) from Zimbabwe
• via the Chirundu Bridge (in the south) from Zimbabwe
• via the Kariba Dam (in the south) from Zimbabwe
• through Chipata (in the east) from Malawi
• through Chingola (in the Copperbelt) from the Democratic Republic of the Congo
• via the Katima Mulilo Bridge from Namibia
• via the Kazungula Ferry from Botswana
• through Tunduma and Nakonde from Tanzania

Crossing international borders by car will incur a tax, depending on the size of the vehicle. The process can also take awhile as you will have to pay at different booths or offices, often not conveniently located. For a standard sedan, you can expect to pay the following:

• Carbon tax at K50, payable in kwachas only
• Third Party Insurance at approximately US$46, payable in rands, US dollars, or kwachas
• You will also pay a toll fee of US$10, payable in dollars as there are no Toll Gates on the road in Zambia. You can get a $5 road pass if you are only going to certain locations with in the country e.g. Kazungula to Livingstone
• Kazungula Ferry charges based on vehicular size approximately $10, payable in Kwacha. There are black market traders on the ferries but their rates are bad.

Border crossings are not without corruption and you are particularly vulnerable when travelling by car. Try to avoid arriving early in the day to avoid having to choose between paying a bribe or spending the night in the car at the border post.

There are many international bus routes to Zambia. You can take a bus across the border from Malawi, Zimbabwe, Tanzania, Namibia. Immigration might be painstaking, considering the large number of people requiring simultaneous processing .

Zambia is landlocked but borders on Tanzania's Lake Tanganyika, and there are regular international ferry services across the lake a few times a week. The ship, M/S Liemba was built in Germany in 1914, cut in pieces, shipped to Tanzania, carried by train to Kigoma (Tanzania) and reassembled there again. It is a charming ship of Titanic era, sunk twice, with reasonable services. This trip should be taken if you are not short of time. Also, if you enter Zambia through Namibia's Caprivi Strip, you will have to cross the Zambezi River. You will have 2 options:

1. You may ride on a ferry (for a dollar); or,
2. You may hire a local boy with a dugout canoe to carry you across (for 50 cents).

Domestic flights on Proflight connect Zambia's major cities and tourist destinations. While undoubtedly the fastest and most comfortable way of getting around, they are quite expensive with an hour-long flight (say, Lusaka-Mfuwe) typically costing around US$150 one-way. Also note that planes are small and schedules sparse, but if you can rustle up enough people you can also charter planes for not much more.

Minibuses — meaning vans outfitted with seats — are popular, but they are often irregular, dangerous, and uncomfortable. To maximise profits, a "conductor" will squeeze as many paying customers — and their luggage, or katundu (ka-TOON-doo) — into the bus as possible; whether or not the customers are comfortable is irrelevant. In terms of meeting locals, however, this method is among the best, and it can provide a traveler with a truly "authentic" experience. Payment is made during the journey — banknotes are passed down the bus to the conductor at the front, and change comes back via the same route.

Larger, more sophisticated "luxury coaches" exist, too Power Tools, Juldan Motors, UBZ. These tend to be more reliable and safer; they depart on-time; they have dedicated space for guests and luggage; and tickets may be purchased in advance. Luxury coaches are much more comfortable and are virtually guaranteed to arrive, but they might seem "generic" to a seasoned traveler.

Vehicles drive on the left side of the road in Zambia — at least most of the time.

Car rental agencies exist in Zambia, but the costs are potentially great. Not only are rental rates high (US$100/day), but some of the main roads in Zambia are in very poor condition. Potholes often take up the entire road, and during the rainy season, large sections of the roads wash away. As you move away from city centres (possibly only a kilometre or so away) you will encounter dirt roads. Although they might look solid, the dirt is often loose, and the chances of an accident are huge if you do not keep to a reasonable speed. Although you are not likely to get lost driving in Zambia (there are only a few roads), you are likely to underestimate the destructive power of these roads and damage a rental vehicle, or worse, yourself! 4WD vehicles are recommended at any time and necessary on dirt roads in the rainy season, although some roads will become completely impassable then.

Remember: there are no Roadside Assistance Packages, and very few ambulances, tow-trucks, or emergency vehicles of any kind in Zambia. Given the circumstances, bush mechanics can do an amazingly good job of patching up your vehicle, but patching up humans isn't so easy!

A nice 4x4 route in Zambia

For adventurous campers, the South Luangwa tour: Lusaka-Petauke-Malama-Mfuwe-Nsefu-Chipata-Lilongwe or Mpika. Very adventurous en scenic routes and campsites. Recommendable and for sure unforgettable.

Zambia is a big country (as big as France) and the public roads are pretty fair for a normal car. Sometimes there are deep potholes (holes in the road), but they are avoidable if you do not drive too fast. Most Zambians drive in a controlled way, sometimes a little too fast. Be especially aware for buses and trucks. They are wide and very long and drive far too fast. If you see a truck or bus approaching, then drive slower and keep left as left as you can. They tend to use your half of the road, pushing you off the road. If you want to see more of Zambia, you will need a good 4x4 four wheel drive car. Especially from December until early April at times rain falls and the roads are wet and muddy.

Zambia is a wonderful country, lovely people, full of stunning nature and wildlife. The most well known parks in Zambia are Kafue (West of Lusaka) and South Luangwa (East of Lusaka). South Luangwa is known and acknowledged to be one of the most beautiful wildlife parks in all Africa. Most national parks in Zambia, like South Luangwa National Parl (SLNP), can be visited with your private car. However, to enjoy this to the full, you will need a 4x4 car.

The South Luangwa National Park is surrounded by the so-called GMA’s (Game Management Areas). You will find only limited habitation and you will be able to see an abundance of wildlife, like, lions, leopards, elephants, girafs, etc. A recommendable tour is from Petauke to Malama, on to Mfuwe and to the Nsefu sector (or the other way around). This route can only be done with a well equipped 4x4 car. You will see and enjouy to the full, the true rural Africa, the local people and their villages and wildlife. From Lusaka you take the road to Chipata (Great Eastern Road) and from that road (well before Chipata) take the junction to Petauke. Once you drove through Petauke you will go off the tarred road on a very fair gravel road. After 60km on this road, you turn left followed by a 120 km local rural road to Malama Chiefdom and Mfuwe. The road is really not too bad. On the way you will have to go over some steep hills, but you will manage. When you go under the electricity network cables (ZESCO Main Power Lines), you enter the Malama Chiefdom and will be 15 km away from the junction. This junction will lead (via the Malama Chief’s Palace) you either to the Lusangazi Gate of the National Park (left) or onwards direction Mfuwe (right). The junction is at a little village. If you are able and willing to do so: The people here and in the villages around the Chief’s Palace, are very friendly and helpful. Leave something for them. It will be highly appreciated because the local people are poor.

If you head for Mfuwe, you will find a campsite after 9 km along the Luangwa River, called Malama Umoyo Camp. It is near (1.5 km after) the scouts training centre. This (basic) campsite is located at a stunning location overlooking the Luangwa River and a dry lagoon, most of the time filled with wildlife. Your hosts here are Menno en Virginie. From here it is also possible to make a daytrip to the National Park.

From Malama Umoyo Camp it is 42 km (2.5 hours drive) to Mfuwe. Mfuwe is a local but bigger than normal village. In the Mfuwe area you will find a lot of lodges, but also a good campsite. Recommendable is Croc Valley Camp. If you arrive from Malama and hit the tarred road, you turn left after 3km and after a few hundred metres right off the tarred road on to a gravelled road. Signposts will lead you further to Croc Valley Camp. Your hosts at Croc Valley Camp are Shaun and Milly. From here it is only a 5 minute drive to the main gate of the South Luangwa National Park (SLNP). Entree fee for the SLNP is US$25 per person per 24 hours and US$35 for a private car entering the park. At 06:00 the park is open and for private cars it is open until 18:00 hours.

From Mfuwe/Croc Valley Camp you can proceed to the Nsefu sector. Do not forget to fill your fuel tank in Mfuwe. You follow the tarred road to Chipata and the local airport and after about 12 km from Mfuwe (the cropping it is called) you turn left (you will see a signpost and two palm trees). After about 12 km you will reach the gate of the National Park. If you are going to camp, then tell at the gate that you are on your way to Zikomo camp. Zikomo Camp is just outside the borders of the park. Right after the gate you turn left and follow the road (about 4 to 5 km) to Zikomo Camp. Your host at the camp is Demian Wallace. The Nsefu sector is part of the SNLP and considered by many as the most beautiful part of the park.

After visiting Mfuwe, you can then return to Chipata (about 2 hours drive). Chipata is the capital of the Eastern Province and a good place to buy supplies and refuel. There are two supermarkets and lots of shops. Opposite Total fuel station you can find Afroc. Here you can refill camping gaz. From Chipata it is a 20 minutes drive to the Malawi border.

Crossing the border will take about half an hour. When entering Malawi, you have to fill in a TIP form for your car and pay 5,000 Malawi kwacha. This will allow your car in Malwai for 30 days. Do not forget to insure your car for Malawi, because they check on it frequently. Just after the border there is an insurance company. Try to get Malawi kwachas before you enter the border post because they only accept Malawi kwachas and not US dollars or any other currency. At the border there are many money changers. Tip: take one US$100 note in your hand, put away your wallet, and change this for 100 x 180 Malawi kwacha. Be careful. These guys are quick and often give you less than they say. So you get 18,000 kwachas for US$100. You should a least get a 15% better rate than the official bank rate.

If you passed the border it will be another 125 km over a good tarred road to Lilongwe. Watch your speed, especially where it says you have to drive 50km.

Alternative route:

From Mfuwe there is the possibility to go right through the park to the North. This is a really adventurous road. Do not drive this road when it is wet/raining! When you passed the northern gate, you will reach the escarpment and you have to drive up a very steep road. It can be done by good 4x4 drivers, but do it slowly. Once out of the Luangwa valley you will have a stunning view over the valley. You then can proceed to Mpika. In Mpika you can camp and get new supplies and fuel. From Mpika you can visit Kasanka NP (in November you will be able to see the daily migrations of millions of bats) or you can go up north. Recommended is to visit Shiwa Ngandu. A beautiful mansion built by an eccentric British gentleman (Stewart Gore Brown) a 100 years ago in the middle of nowhere. Camping you can near the hot water springs. The water is lovely and relaxing for at least a half hour dip. Mark Harvey and his wife are your hosts here. From here you can proceed for example to Tanzania (to Ruaha NP, also a place not to miss).

When visiting Mfuwe, if you prefer a lodge for a good sleep, dinner and a warm shower: Thornicroft Lodge en Croc Valley are both recommendable (good value for money).

You can catch TAZARA trains between Kapiri Mposhi and Nakonde at the Tanzanian border. The Zambezi train, operated by Zambia Railways runs between Livingstone and Kitwe via the capital Lusaka and Kapiri Mposhi every Wednesday. All trains are relatively reliable and safe, but slow. You might still consider them for the views and sense of adventure they provide, though.

Hitchhiking in Zambia is popular, although it can be extremely hit-or-miss as traffic density is low. Also note that, if picked up by a local, you will be expected to pay for the ride. Nevertheless, hitchhiking does not carry with it the same stigma in Zambia as it does in the United States; you are unlikely to be harmed, and you might make a great connection.

In Zambia, travelers do not "thumb" a ride. The proper method for flagging transportation is:

1. Pile your luggage near the road.
2. Sit in the shade.
3. When you see/hear a vehicle, jump up.
4. Rush to your luggage.
5. From your shoulder, wave your entire arm up and down, palm open and facing the ground, as though you are fanning someone in front of you.
6. Hope the vehicle stops.

In the south the use of private taxis or cabs is easy enough. Cabs are a distinctive light blue, though not all have a taxi sign on top. Most drivers will negotiate a rate and are quite happy to drive between cities and often cross in Zimbabwe from Livingstone.

The currency of Zambia is the kwacha — meaning "sunrise," so-named to celebrate Zambia's independence — denoted by the symbol ZK (ISO code: ZMW).

The currency was re-based (dropping the last three zeros) in 2013, but you can occasionally receive change in both the new re-based currency and the old currency.

Coins of Zambia come in denominations of 5, 10 and 50 ngwee and 1 kwacha. Banknotes of Zambia come in denominations of 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 kwacha.

U.S. dollars are still commonly used for larger purchases (although it's illegal) and will be accepted by anybody dealing with tourists. It is not unusual to see all printed prices at a hotel restaurant in local currency, and then receive a bill in U.S. dollars. If you bring U.S. dollars, in Zambia only the "big heads" (new notes) are accepted in banks and bureaux de change, small heads are not accepted (if you are lucky you can change them in Livingstone). US$50 and US$100 notes are the best to bring, for smaller nominations you will get a poorer rate at the bureaux (5-10% less).

Changing euros is difficult, especially up country: bureaux are giving a very poor rate (25% less than the market rate!) International banks will accept, but with commission charge. Finance Bank, Arcades Shopping Centre Lusaka is known to accept euros at a good rate and without commission charge. Bureaux and banks will only change a maximum of US$1000 (or equivalent) per person per day. Watch the rates as they can change overnight, fluctuations of 3-5% per day are common.

South African rand are exchanged relatively easily in major centres. Other second tier currencies like the Australian dollar are not worth bothering with. Expect blank looks from the locals, and a mocking laugh from those in the tourist trade.

If you want to sound like a local, refer to 1000 kwacha as a pin, so for example 10,000 kwacha is "ten pin". In the 1990s, the kwacha devalued so rapidly that the government didn't have time to produce new, larger bank notes. To pay for things, Zambians often had to bundle — or "pin" together — large numbers of small bills.

ATMs may be found in all major towns and cities. Most of the ATMs accept Visa and Mastercard. Other international credit cards (like American Express, Union Pay, Discover card, Diners Club, JCB) can also be used at some ATMs. Most supermarkets, shops and restaurants accept debit or credit cards, as do practically all high-end hotels and safari lodges. ATMs only dispense local currency. The big banks ATM networks which all take Mastercard and Visa Card are Access bank, Ecobank, Standard Chartered Bank, FNB, Zanaco, Stanbic, UBA and ABSA.

Traveler's cheques are impossible to process in Zambia.

Most shopkeepers advertise fixed prices and are unwilling to negotiate, but this is not a given. On the other hand, most "freelance" salesmen — vendors selling curios; taxi drivers; etc. — who do not post their prices are usually willing to negotiate. As a (very) general rule of thumb, assume the first price they mention is at least double the amount they will accept. You should not be afraid to bargain — after all, Zambians bargain among themselves — but try not to get carried away with saving a few pennies.

Tipping is not required — indeed, it was at one point illegal — but often expected. Porters expect US$0.50 or so per bag, and better restaurants typically add in a 10% service charge or expect an equivalent tip.

Finally, keep in mind the Zambian custom of mbasela (em-buh-SAY-la) — giving a freebie when more than one item is purchased. If you buy a few small items, do not be shy about asking for your mbasela.

Zambia has about the same costs compared to its neighbours. A bare-bones budget traveler will be looking at a minimum of US$25 a day just for a dorm bed in a Backpackers hostel and three meals and transport. At the other end of the spectrum, all-inclusive safari lodges or Lusaka/Livingstone's five-star hotels will take care of all your needs but charge US$250/day and up for the privilege. Finding a middle ground between these two extremes can be difficult but there are safari operators who will offer 'DIY' camping for around US$10 to $95 and above - it pays to look around (see below).

Zambian safaris are amongst the best available in Africa; they offer top-quality viewing experiences with the continent's top guides. Zambia's national parks are not 'commercialised' as in other countries (e.g. Kenya and South Africa) and one will not see the ridiculous zebra striped game viewing buses, Land Cruisers, etc.

A traditional local drink worth trying is maheu, a somewhat gritty and vaguely yogurty but refreshing beverage made from maize meal. Factory-produced maheu is sweet, comes in plastic bottles and is available in a variety of flavors including banana, chocolate and orange, while homemade versions are usually unflavored and less sweet.

Coke products are accessible and cheap at less than a quarter a bottle, but beware of the deposit system: in rural areas, you may have to return an empty bottle before they'll sell you a new one!

Zambia's best-known brew is Mosi, a clear 4% lager available everywhere. Eagle has more taste and more kick at 5.5%, while Zambezi Lager is a microbrew worth sampling if you run into it. The South African brand Castle is also bottled locally, and all of the above run around $1 in a store or $1-2 in a bar.

If you are near the borders, you are likely to find Carlsberg (good, from Malawi), Simba (excellent, from the Democratic Republic of the Congo), Kilimanjaro (nice lager, from Tanzania), and Tusker (strong, from Kenya). Other imports can be found in larger markets but will also cost more.

The locals' drink of choice is masese (muh-SE-say) or ucwala (uch-WALA), also known as Chibuku after the biggest brand, made from maize, millet, or cassava and resembling sour porridge in texture and taste. If you want to try this, it's best to look out for the factory-made kind in milk-carton-like containers.

In rural areas, there are opportunities to drink local "homebrews." A wide variety of homebrews exist in Zambia, from beers made from honey (in the Southern province of the country), to wine made from tea leaves (in the Eastern portion of the country).

Finally, there is kachasu (cuh-CHA-suh), a spirit distilled from anything Zambians can get their hands on — including battery acid and fertiliser. For obvious reasons, therefore, it is better to avoid this moonshine.

On a final note, most men at bars are relaxing, while many women at bars are working. Therefore, if you are a single woman in a Zambian bar, be aware that you might be approached and offered the opportunity to do something you did not intend to do.

The Zambian mail service is slow and a little flaky (especially outside Lusaka), but not completely hopeless. Using a private courier service is still recommended if sending something important.

The country code for Zambia is "260." The city code for Lusaka is "211". For the city code for other towns, check the directory. However, phone service both within Zambia and into Zambia is very hit-or-miss. In large cities, you are more likely to get regular, dependable phone service, but it is by no means a guarantee. The farther you travel from Lusaka, the less likely you are to maintain a good connection. International calling rates can be as high as $3 per minute.

Zambia has a highly competitive market in mobile phones with three main operators: Airtel (0976,0977,0979), Cell Z (0955) and MTN (0966,0967). Generally speaking, Airtel has the largest network, while Cell Z is the cheapest. You can pick up a local SIM card for as little as 5,000K (US$1). Prepaid time is sold in "units" corresponding to dollars: figure on 0.4 units for an SMS or up to 1 unit/minute for calls, although as always the precise tariffs are bewilderingly complex. If you plan on roaming with your non-Zambian SIM, check first to see if your home operator has made any roaming agreements; Zambia is usually not on the top of their list. Also note that the roaming prices are very high and coverage in rural areas can be spotty.

Booths labeled "public telephone" these days consist, more often than not, of a guy renting out his cellphone. Typical rates are 5K/min for domestic and 15K/min for international calls.

Internet cafes are springing up in Zambia, but again, connections can be sporadic and very slow. Moreover, because constant electricity is not a guarantee, some Internet cafes operate backup generators, which can be extremely costly. Be prepared to see Internet cafe charges as high as 25 cents per minute. Most hotels and backpackers hostels will offer internet connections to their guests for free.