Grand Est

• 🌍 Champagne — the home of the world's most festive wine. Vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see, and the countryside is dotted with timeless villages and churches.
• 🌍 Natzweiler-Struthof. The only Nazi concentration camp in France, set up in the region of Alsace, considered by the Nazis to be part of Germany itself liberated from France, and not occupied territory. The camp had an extremely high death toll for a camp that was not intended as a death camp, due to high altitude, particularly vicious ill-treatment of inmates, and intensive pseudo-scientific human experimentation. The most notorious examples of this were the execution of over eighty Jewish prisoners, transferred from Auschwitz specifically for the purpose, to create a "historical" collection of Jewish skeletons, and experimentation with poison gases to "improve" the extermination process. (updated Oct 2018)

The region was created in 2016 from Alsace, Champagne-Ardenne and Lorraine, as part of national territorial reform. Compared to other merged French regions, the merger was strongly opposed by many inhabitants, as each of the old regions has its own distinct identity. People in Alsace in particular took to the streets in protest, and an Alsatian independence movement has gained significant traction.

Throughout history, much of the area ping-ponged between Germany and France, and the last time parts of it were administered as part of Germany (by the Nazis) is still just about in living memory. The local culture is therefore a distinct blend of the two countries, though this is most pronounced in the rural areas of the region. Despite or because of that, you get a sense that the locals, particularly in rural Alsace and Lorraine, are more patriotically French than anywhere else in the country. Expect to see a lot of tricolores, even outside of national holidays. The only exception might be Strasbourg, which has become one of France's most progressive and multicultural cities since the 2010s.

The west of the region is largely flat or softly rolling - perfect for Champagne! - while the land becomes more rugged toward the north (the Ardennes hills) and east (the Vosges mountains). Beyond the Vosges is the Rhine Valley, and the Rhine forms the natural border between France and Germany.

Slightly-accented French is the everyday language spoken by everyone, young and old. Because Germany, Luxembourg and Belgium are nearby, people in the Grand Est region speak in a more guttural manner compared to other parts of France. The government maintains that French is the only official language of the Republic and largely ignores the existence of all others, so local languages are dying out across France, though this region has one exception.

Regional languages are still spoken. Alsatian (Elsässerditsch) is a dialect closely related to Swiss German and Alemannic, still spoken in Alsace and south-eastern Lorraine. Unlike most regional languages in France, Alsatian has seen a timid yet noteworthy renaissance. Lorraine Franconian (francique or platt) is spoken mainly near the Belgian and German borders. Alsatian and Franconian are non-standardised dialects of German containing many French loan words, spoken mainly by older inhabitants in the countryside. East of the Vosges and near the German border, you'll notice many placenames are partly or fully Germanic. The rest of the region is resolutely Francophone; Champenois and Lorrain are the dialects of French spoken by some in the Champagne and Lorraine, respectively.

Other than that, English and standard German are worth a try, especially if you don't speak French. Travellers in cities and major tourist spots should have no trouble communicating without a knowledge of French, but it's always a good idea and good manners to learn a few basic phrases.

• Cathedrals: Grand Est has some of the most beautiful in Europe; the most notable are at Reims, Metz, Troyes and Strasbourg
• Vineyards: Champagne, Alsace and Lorraine are the major wine regions of Grand Est
• Two marvellous museums in Mulhouse: the Cité de l'Automobile and the Cité du Train are respectively France's largest car and railway museums

• Charles de Gaulle Memorial (Colombey-les-Deux-Églises, 20 km from junction 23 of the A5), ☏ +33 3 25 30 90 80. Closed Jan; Feb–Apr: Open 6 days a week 10:00–17:30 (closed Tu); May–Sep: Open every day 9:30–19:00; Oct–Dec: Open 6 days a week 10:00–17:30 (closed Tu). France's national memorial to its great leader and statesman is at his former home and burial place. The memorial is a gigantic patriarchal cross which dominates the surrounding countryside. Also onsite is a museum which charts General de Gaulle's life, from his role in the Allied war effort and liberation of France, to leading his country into its economic golden era and the foundation of the Fifth Republic. Adults: €13.50; concessions: €11; children (6-12): €8; children (under 6): free. (updated Jan 2017)
• 🌍 Lalique Museum (Musée Lalique), Rue du Hochberg, Wingen-sur-Moder (About 2 km northwest of Wingen-sur-Moder (served by TER Alsace rail) on Rue du Hochberg (D919)). Daily 10:00-19:00 Apr-Sep & December; Tu-Sa 10:00-18:00 Feb, Mar, Oct, Nov; Closed in January. A very large collection of works by René Lalique, a renowned French glassmaker and jeweller active from the 1880s until his death in 1945. The museum is adjacent to the sole production facility operated by Lalique (the company he founded), opened in 1921 and is on the site of a glass-making factory dating to the 18th century. €6 adults; €3 children 6-18; children under 6 are free. 
• 🌍 Reims-Gueux (Circuit de Gueux), Highway D27, Gueux (on Hwy D27 between Thillois and Gueux). The grandstands and other buildings for the former Reims-Gueux Grand Prix motor racing course still stand, some restored by volunteers, others fenced off for safety reasons but still impressive to view from the outside. Free, donation appreciated. (updated Jan 2022)

• The Vosges — an accessible and relatively low-lying range of mountains, with the highest peak at 1,424 metres, straddles Alsace and Lorraine and forms the western border of the Rhine valley. The landscape is lush and wooded, and surprisingly wild wildlife - wolves, lynx, chamois, capercaillie - make this region perfect for anyone interested in the preservation and restoration of western Europe's native biodiversity. The main long distance hiking trail is the GR 5, while a web of mountain bike routes cover the countryside. While its slopes may not be as famous as the Alps, there are plenty of winter sports opportunities in the Vosges, centred on the resort of Markstein. You can get a good view of the Vosges from Harttmannswillerkopf (Vieil Armand - The Old Armand), a WWI battlefield site.

See also: French cuisine

The cuisine is highly regionalised, though portions tend to be hearty and you'll notice a strong reliance on pork products throughout. Vegetarians and halal-conscious Muslims are best catered for in urban areas, while Strasbourg has a large Jewish quarter with good kosher restaurants and shops.

Alsatians share a culinary heritage with south-west Germany, so expect lots of pork and sausage sauerkraut (choucroute), flammeküche (tarte flambée - like a very thin oblong pizza) and creamy, chocolatey, cherry-filled Black Forest gateau (forêt-noire). What makes Alsace special is that these stereotypical 'German' dishes are cooked with the usual panache and savoir-faire that you'd expect from French chefs, and locals are quick to inform you, with a snort, that their sauerkraut is far superior to anything the well-meaning fools on the other side of the Rhine could come up with! One dish unique to the Alsace is baeckeoffe, a casserole with mountains of meat (pork, beef and lamb - all in one pot), potatoes and veg. Its inspiration, the hamin, can still be eaten (sans pork), in Strasbourg's Jewish restaurants during the Friday-Saturday sabbath. In large cities or touristy areas it is not particularly difficult to find vegetarian versions of traditional dishes such as flammekueche, spaetzle or baeckeoffe, although vegetarian interpretations of choucroute are pretty much non-existent.

Lorraine has one stand-out dish that has conquered the planet: quiche lorraine. The original and best recipe fills shortcrust pastry with eggs, cream and smoked bacon, and is not quite like any of the hundreds of variants and imitators you can buy anywhere in the world. Aside from this, the region's pâté, potato dishes and stews are celebrated, as are a local variety of plums - the mirabelle. The gastronomically-adventurous will dare to try some of the many saucissons and charcuteries, as well as andouille (tripe sausage) and tête de veau (calf's head). The latter two especially can seem like a gamble; if you have good reason to be confident in the chef's ability, give them a go and the scales may well fall from your eyes as you enjoy complex and subtle flavours.

The cuisine of Champagne is among the least well-known, as it is largely indistinguishable from the French mainstream. Nonetheless, you should make time for a potée champenoise - a wonderfully slow stew of ham, bacon, cabbage, beans, carrots and potatoes - and indeed anything with pieds de porc (pigs' trotters) in it. Many dishes use the local bubbly as a key ingredient: hedonists will want to luxuriate with hot oysters in champagne! This area is particularly known for its sweets - biscuits roses, macarons and chocolate champagne corks.

This being France, you mustn't overlook the cheese. The highlights (all made with cows' milk) include creamy and slightly crumbly langres, the very soft and strong munster from the mountains and carré de l'est, with the appearance of a square brie but unmistakable flavour of smoky bacon.

In case you haven't been paying attention, around these parts wine is king! Touring the vineyards of the Champagne and Alsace are veritable rites of passage for any discerning wine buff, but even for those without the patience to go on tour, restaurants can be relied on to serve the best local vintages. Champagne is the world's best-loved (and potentially most bank-breaking) sparkling wine. Alsace is mainly known for its whites and the grape varieties are often - surprise surprise - akin to their German counterparts. Completely off the beaten track is Lorraine wine, whose notable crus include côtes de Moselle and the gris de Toul, a rosé wine that actually looks grey.

Here on the edges of northern and central Europe, the importance of beer can't be overstated. Lorraine and Alsace have the highest quality brewers: Champignolles, Kanterbräu and Grimbergen, as well as France's 'national beer' Kronenbourg. In pubs and bars, order pression (draft), while supermarkets are great for 'stocking up' on cans and bottles.

In Lorraine, there is also a tradition of making plum liqueurs and eaux de vie. Mirabelle and quetsch are the two plum varieties used to make these drinks, and production seems to be more of a cottage industry than being aimed at the mass market.

As with most of France, accommodation options are based around hotels in town and cities, and self-catering gîtes in the countryside. In the Vosges, there are many farmhouse inns which offer an authentic rural experience. Campers and caravaners are well-catered for all over France, and Grand Est is no exception.

This is a predominantly rural and safe region; any issues relating to specific cities can be found in the relevant articles. Enjoy the local tipples in healthy moderation and don't get behind the wheel while under the influence. Aside from the obvious risk of death, the Gendarmerie Nationale do not take kindly to drunk drivers, and being foreign will not let you off the hook.

As with the rest of France, crimes like pickpocketing and aggravated assaults do occur, and you should be vigilant in both rural and urban areas. This is partially because the Grand Est region used to depend heavily on industries like coal and textiles, and de-industrialization violently hit the region, earning it the reputation of France's "rust belt". As such, places like Strasbourg, Mulhouse, Nancy, and the Ardennes have higher-than-average unemployment and deprivation rates.

In wilder areas there are some animals with the potential to harm humans, notably deer, boar and wolves. Male deer (stags / bucks) should be avoided during the autumn rut (mating season), while in the spring, it is inadvisable to get between a mother doe and her baby. During both of these seasons, local authorities advise walkers / cyclists to stay on the path. Boar have been known to charge humans, especially when they have piglets, though you can observe them safely from a distance. Wolves haunt many of our nightmares, but in reality pose very little threat to people unless they themselves feel threatened. They are exceedingly rare in this part of France, and as they have keen senses and try to keep away from people, your chances of meeting one are only slightly higher than in a wolf-free area.

Also be aware that portions of Grand Est's countryside are part of the Red Zone (Zone Rouge), having never recovered from World War I. Look out for signposts and fencing around these areas as they contain unexploded ordnance such as grenades amongst other dangers such as traces of arsenic and perchlorate in the soil and water.

As you have discovered, Grand Est is big so its borders are long, and there are many neighbouring regions to explore: