Balbriggan

"The village is resorted to in Summertime by several genteel people for the benefit of bathing" - 18th century travelogue

Baile Brigín may mean "Brecan's town", no-one knows. It was a tiny place until the fashion for sea-bathing began, but only grew rapidly from the 19th century as a textile town. The railway arrived in 1844. The main highway to Belfast came this way, so it was a bottleneck until 1998 when the M1 bypass was created. Balbriggan nowadays is a commuter town for Dublin. It is a possible base for exploring the city, but even more for sights just across the county boundary to the north and west such as Brú Na Bóinne Neolithic complex. Or at least it would be if it had more accommodation: there's more in Skerries 8 km south along the coast.

In 1994 County Dublin was divided into four, so these towns are now part of County Fingal. In 2022 the population of Balbriggan was 24,300, of Skerries 10,470, of Rush 11,100 and of Lusk 10,800.

By train: Commuter trains run every 30-60 min from Dublin Pearse and Connolly stations via Malahide, Donabate, Rush & Lusk and Skerries, taking 45 min to Balbriggan, and continuing north to Drogheda. Trains from Belfast and Newry don't stop here, change at Drogheda. See Irish Rail for times and fares.

🌍 Balbriggan railway station is central, near the harbour. There's a staffed ticket office and machines, no toilets or cafe.

🌍 Skerries railway station (40 min from Dublin) is southwest side of that village, a platform halt with a ticket machine but no other facilities.

Rush & Lusk station is effectively a Park & Ride midway between those two villages but not convenient for leisure visitors to either.

By bus: Bus Éireann 101 runs from Dublin Busaras every 20 min via Drumcondra, Dublin Airport, Swords and Balrothery to Balbriggan (one hour), continuing to Drogheda. This bus is not available for journeys just between Dublin city, airport and Swords.

Dublin Bus 33 runs to Balbriggan from Dublin Lower Abbey Street roughly hourly, via Swords, Lusk, Rush and Skerries, taking 90 min.

By road from Dublin follow M1 to Exit 4 for Lusk, Rush and Skerries, and Exit 6 for Balbriggan.

The town is easily walkable, including Ardgillan Castle. Use Bus 33 or the commuter train to reach Skerries. You need your own wheels to reach Courtlough or the Séamus Ennis Arts Centre out in the countryside.

Bus Éireann B1 loops around town from the railway station:

- north via Moylaragh Park and Hamlet Lane back to the station, M-Sa every 30 min

- south via Harry Reynolds Road and Millfield Shopping Centre and back to the station, M-F hourly.

See TFI for route maps and fares.

Taxis in Balbriggan are Mick's (+353 85 165 2310), Balbriggan Taxi (+353 89 429 0380) and Bracken Cabs (+353 1 841 3111).

• The Harbour is scenic. Across the bay, no stretch of Irish coastline would be complete without its Martello tower.
• The Sack of Balbriggan is commemorated by a plaque on Bridge St. On 20 Sept 1920 during the Irish War of Independence, two police officers were shot dead in Smyth's Pub by the Irish Republican Army. In revenge, the Black and Tans raided the town that night, destroying a factory, 49 houses and four pubs, and two townsmen were beaten to death.
• St George's Church was built in 1813. It's off Church St near the harbour.
• 🌍 Saints Peter & Paul Church, Dublin St, ☏ +353 1 841 2116. Built in 1842, this RC church has two stained-glass windows by the Arts & Crafts exponent Harry Clarke: "The Widow's Son" left of the altar and "The Visitation" on the south wall. Mass is M-F at 10AM, plus noon in English and 3:30PM in Polish on Sunday. (updated May 2024)
• 🌍 Bremore Castle. Closed. Scrappy remains of a tower house built in the 14th century, but falling into ruin in the 17th. It's closed for restoration. (updated May 2024)
• 🌍 Ardgillan Castle and Demesne, Ardgillan K32 WX87, ☏ +353 1 849 2212. Apr-Oct 10AM-6PM, Nov-Mar 10AM-5PM. The house, built in 1738, is set in extensive park lands overlooking the Irish Sea with a view of the Mourne Mountains. Guided tours take in the castle ground floor and kitchens. There are gardens, tea rooms, children’s playground, cycle and walking paths. In 2024 there's disruption from renovation, short-term closures, and tour prices are reduced. Adult €5, conc free. (updated May 2024)
• Lady's Stairs on the coast north of Ardgillan are steep steps down the cliff to the beach, which is covered at high tide.
• Skerries is an attractive small harbour 8 km south along the coast. There are restored wind- and watermills in a park just south of the village.
• 🌍 St Patrick's Island is the largest of three low-lying uninhabited islets off Skerries, habitats for sea birds. The foundations are all that remains of its monastery.
• Colt Island closer inshore is smaller. Shenick Island south has a Martello Tower, and can be reached on foot at spring low tides.
• Rockabill further out is a pair, Rock the larger islet with a lighthouse, and Bill the smaller is bare.
• Rush 8 km south of Skerries is another small harbour with a good beach where you often see racehorses training. Kenure church is a ruin at the north edge of town, while all that's left of Kenure House is a cod-Hellenistic portico, looking like a derelict NatWest bank.
• Lusk 4 km inland from Rush has a 10th-century Round Tower, incorporated into a Norman-style 15th century church.
• 🌍 Lambay Island is the largest island off Ireland's east coast, with a dozen inhabitants. It's a private farm estate but boat trips occasionally come from Skerries or Malahide to visit the castle, converted into an artistic mansion by Lutyens in 1905.

• Cinema: Omniplex is at 10 Mill St by the railway station.
• Boat trips may be available to Lambay, the Skerries islands and Rockabill, but since covid operators have re-based closer to the city at Malahide.
• 🌍 Balbriggan Golf Club, Blackhall Place K32 HH00, ☏ +353 1 841 2229. Parkland 18-hole course amidst mature trees and water hazards. White tees 5893 m, par 72. Visitor round €40. (updated May 2024)
• Skerries Golf Club is just south of that village.
• 🌍 Courtlough Adventure Centre, Courtlough K32 KD99, ☏ +353 1 841 3096. Multi-activity centre for all ages, with high ropes, off-road buggies, paintball and zip lines. The Shooting Grounds have clay pigeon, rifle and archery. Advance booking essential. (updated May 2024)
• 🌍 Séamus Ennis Arts Centre, Main St, Naul K32 AY27, ☏ +353 1 802 0898. A non-profit cultural centre dedicated to Séamus Ennis (1919-1982), the uilleann piper, folklore and music collector. Regular concerts and music classes, and excellent food. (updated May 2024)
• Angling: Gormanston and District Anglers Club has fishing on Wavin Lake and the Delvin River. Day-tickets available to non-members, but only if accompanied by a club member.

• Main St cafes are The Coffee Pot, Milestone, and Molly's plus the usual chains and takeaways.
• Royal Shack on Railway St is open W-M 4-10PM.
• Brick Room, 10 Railway St K32 DF85 (next to railway station), ☏ +353 1 690 3030. Su-W 10AM-4PM, Th-Sa 10AM-5PM. Café with good vegan selection. (updated May 2024)
• Harvey's (Harvest Inn), Drogheda St K32 R282 (corner of Chapel St), ☏ +353 1 841 1265. Su-W 10AM-4PM, Th-Sa 10AM-5PM. Friendly bar and grill. (updated May 2024)
• Eki Sushi in the shopping centre on Drogheda St is open daily 4:30-10:30PM.
• 🌍 Karma Thai, 12 Mill St K32 EE63, ☏ +353 1 968 0808. M-F 4-11PM, Sa 1-11PM, Su 1-10PM. Thai cuisine and sushi. (updated May 2024)
• 🌍 Pappagallino's Ice Cream, 14 Quay Street K32 RP27, ☏ +353 1 849 6374. W-Su noon-8PM. Quality Italian ice cream. (updated May 2024)
• Moti Mahal, 7 Dublin St K32 E525 (50 m south of Bracken Court), ☏ +353 1 841 0865. Daily 4-10:30PM. Indian cuisine, sit in or takeaway. (updated May 2024)

• 🌍 Central Lounge - Mrs O's (formerly Fannings), 18 Bridge Street K32 VK57, ☏ +353 1 841 7275. M-Tu 5-11:30PM, W-Su noon-11:30PM. Friendly pub with snooker / pool tables. (updated May 2024)
• Skerries has Gladstone Inn, Nealon's, The Snug and The Coast.
• Rush has Harbour Bar, The Carlyan, The Strand, Walsh's and the Drop Inn.
• Blood by moonlight: the vampire Cassidy in Garth Ennis's Preacher was born in Balbriggan in 1900. He became a vampire, implausibly, by being bitten by someone from Skerries. From Swords you could believe.

• Bedford House, 1 Church St K32 YY92 (town centre), ☏ +353 1 960 5411. Charming Georgian / Victorian house on the Music and Song campus, with rooms named after Irish composers. B&B double €150. (updated May 2024)
• 🌍 Bracken Court Hotel, Bridge St K32 DK88, ☏ +353 1 841 3333, info@brackencourt.ie. Renovated in 2024, clean and near beach and town centre. With restaurant, but they've scrapped the Sunday carvery. B&B double €180. (updated May 2024)
• 🌍 Woodview Farmhouse, Margaretstown, Skerries K34 DR74, ☏ +353 1 849 1528. Welcoming B&B just south of Ardgillan Castle. (updated May 2024)
• Skerries has B&B at White Cottages and The Sail Loft, and self-catering at The Lifeboat House.
• Rush has caravan parks at North Beach and at Hilly Skilly, plus B&B at Sandyhills.
• 🌍 CityNorth Hotel, Gormanston K32 W562, ☏ +353 1 690 6666. Business hotel at jcn 7 of M1, just over the boundary into Co Meath. It often hosts business conferences and might break a journey north. B&B double €160. (updated May 2024)

As of May 2024, Balbriggan, Skerries and Rush have 5G from all Irish carriers.

• Into Dublin for city-centre attractions.
• Explore Dublin County for small, interesting places such as Malahide and Howth.
• North to historic Drogheda and the Louth coast.
• Brú Na Bóinne is a remarkable collection of Neolithic chamber tombs 8 km west of Drogheda. It's a 15 min drive from Balbriggan but you must book, and you must head for the visitor centre south of the River Boyne (M1 exit 9). There's no direct access to the tombs, so don't follow directions to Newgrange Farm.