Cacaxtla

The Cacaxtla site dates from the early Pre-classic period with the city's peak 650 to 900 A.D. Archaeologists were able to date the battle murals using carbon-14 analysis, which pinpointed their origen to shortly after the year 650. The city was built as a hilltop fortress with defensive terraces and moats. The city appears to have been abandoned in a gradual and systematic process with steps taken to preserve the murals in the palace leading anthropologists to believe the people intended to return at some point in the future, though they never did.

The site was well know in the region and in the early 16th century, Spanish historian Diego Munoz visited and reported on the site, but nothing was done to explore it or develop the nearby area. In 1940, Pedro Armillas conducted initial surveys of the site. The first excavations at the site were done in 1975 by illegal treasure hunters, but INAH was notified by someone and archaeologists began to explore the site in earnest with major finds occurring in 1985 and 1986. Later discoveries would be made by construction workers laying supports for the roof. Much of the original city of Cacaxtla remains buried to tempt future explorers and treasure hunters.

From anywhere in Mexico City, take Metro to the TAPO bus station (Terminal Autobuses Poniente). Take the Super Rapidos (Estrella Roja) bus to San Martín Texmelucan. It's a 2-hour ride and will cost about M$200. Super Rapidos buses leave every 10 minutes throughout the day. From San Martin, it's about a 10-minute taxi ride to the Cacaxtla site.

From the city of Tlaxcala, it's about a half-hour drive to Cacaxtla. A taxi will cost about M$400.

You can drive to the site. It's about 90 minutes from Mexico City or 30 minutes from Tlaxcala. Take federal highway MEX 150D to the San Martin Texmelucan exit. Follow the signs 12.5 km east to the site.

Although it was a large city, only a small portion has been documented and is open to the public. Walk around the site and follow the tour route.

When you enter the large covered pavilion, you're in an open area called the North Plaza. If you turn to your left, you're in the Palace with various rooms and patios, but if you turn to your right, you get right to the main attraction: the Battle Mural (and Building A). As you walk around the site, don't miss the load-bearing columns --- several are decorated with impressive paintings of quetzals, gods, and scenes that may puzzle or mystify you.

• Battle mural - The most vivid and shocking mural at the site is at the north end of the former palace. To begin with, it's huge: over 2 meters high and 22 meters long. It's called the battle mural because it portrays a bloody battle between jaguar warriors and eagle warriors. The jaguars (presumably the home town heroes) slaughter the eagles in gruesome detail, but only after having suffered mightily as the eagles' lances pierced their abdomens, sending showers of blood spraying in a scene that would make a Hollywood horror director proud. Historians believe the mural may depict an actual battle with the Maya group represented as jaguar warriors (complete with long, sloped noses) and a Mexica group as the eagle warriors.

• Building A - Features murals of a jaguar warrior and an eagle warrior.

• Palace - The south end of the Palace is a warren of smaller rooms that are presumed to have been living quarters along with several patios and temples. The Patio of Rhombuses is named for the patterns decorating the doors while the Patio of Altars features a sunken altar in its center.

• Temple of Venus - 1,500 years ago the Blue Man Group evidently performed at Cacaxtla and their images were captured on the columns in the Temple of Venus, dancing beneath the stars as sea creatures ply the waters at their feet.

• Site Museum - Your paid admission includes the site museum, so you might as well see it. It's small and doesn't take a lot of time. The museum contains mostly small artifacts found at the site, including pots, obsidian knives, ceramic figures and more. Replicas of some of the murals are painted on the walls.

There is no food on site, but roadside taquerias abound on the road through Navitas leading up to the site.

• La Plaza del Taco, Av. San Martin 10, +52 246 195 2127. Small, bright casual taqueria.
• Las Brasas, Av. San Martin. Light casual food: wings, fries, etc.
• La Cabaña, Parque Hidalgo 6, Relaxing place with good views from upstairs terrace. Casual food: burgers, hot dogs, nachos, micheladas

Hotels can be found in San Martin Texmelucan.

• Hotel Boutique La Albertina, Libertad Nte. 210, Col Centro, San Martín Texmelucan. +52 248 484 0813. Homey B&B with on-site restaurant. About M$1000.

• Xochitécatl - sister site, just minutes from Cacaxtla
• Puebla
• Cholula