Kraków

Kraków is one of the oldest cities in Poland, with evidence showing settlements there since 20,000 BC. Legend has it that it was built on the cave of a dragon whom the mythical King Krak had slain. However, the first official mention of the name was in 966 by a Jewish merchant from Spain, who described it as an important centre of trade in Slavonic Europe.

Through trade with the various rulers of Europe, it grew from a small settlement in 1000 AD to a large wealthy city, belonging to the Vistulans. However, through the 9th and 10th centuries, it fell under the influence of the Great Moravians, then the Bohemians, before being captured by the Piast Dynasty of Poland. In 1038, Kazimierz the Restorer made Kraków the capital of Poland.

In 1241, the city was almost entirely destroyed by Tatars. It was rebuilt to a design that remains largely unchanged to the present day. However, after more successful attacks by the Mongols in the late 13th century, Kazimierz the Great set about defending the city. Walls, fortifications, and the original Wawel Castle were added. The University was also established. King Kazimierz established the district of Kazimierz for Jews to live in free from persecution. This area remained mainly Jewish for centuries until the Nazi occupation.

The 16th century was Kraków's golden age. Under the influence of the joint Polish-Lithuanian Jagiellonian dynasty, Kraków became a centre of science and the arts. In 1569, Poland was officially united with Lithuania and as a result government activity started to move to Warsaw. King Zygmunt III officially moved the capital in 1609.

However, the 17th century was a return to troubled times for Kraków and Poland. After being invaded by Russians, Prussians, Austrians, Transylvanians, Swedes, and the French, it went through a phase of various forms of political control. These included being part of the Duchy of Warsaw, established by Napoleon, and becoming an "independent city". However, it mostly fell under the sphere of influence of the Austrian Habsburg Empire, in the province of Galicia.

In the First World War, Józef Piłsudski set out to liberate Poland and the Treaty of Versailles (1919) established an independent sovereign Polish state for the first time in more than 100 years. This lasted until the Second World War, when Germany and the USSR partitioned the country, with German forces entering Kraków in September 1939. Many academics were killed and historic relics and monuments were destroyed or looted. Concentration camps were established near Kraków, including Plaszow and Auschwitz; see Holocaust remembrance. After German withdrawal, the city escaped complete destruction and many buildings were saved.

In the Communist period, a large steel work factory was established in the suburb of Nowa Huta. This was seen as an attempt to lessen the influence of the anti-communist intelligentsia and religious communities in Kraków; see Cold War Europe. In 1978, UNESCO placed Kraków on the World Heritage Sites list. In the same year, the Archbishop of Kraków, Karol Wojtyła, was made Pope John Paul II.

The communist government collapsed in 1989 and Kraków has undergone another period of regeneration, with historic buildings being restored, but many of the dull post-war buildings still remain.

There are four definite seasons to Kraków - summer being hot and humid (average highs of 25°C) and winter always seeing Kraków under a blanket of snow with bitingly cold days (average lows of -3/-4°C). Due to little wind, Kraków suffers from high levels of air pollution from cars and coal stoves, which especially affects children and people with respiratory problems.

Kraków is the most popular tourist destination in Poland and this supports much of the local economy. However, the University and numerous local colleges mean education is an important employer as well.

The service and technology industry is strong, with many banks and IT companies, such as IBM, Cisco, Oracle, being located here. There is a large manufacturing sector as well, especially in steel (owned by Mittal), pharmaceuticals and tobacco, mainly as a legacy of the communist era.

Unemployment is lower than average (5%) for the rest of the country (9%) and it is considered an attractive investment opportunity, especially for those buying real estate. A new financial and business district is planned along with a new sporting complex in the Nowa Huta borough on the Vistula river. This is for the regeneration of the Nowa Huta area, the poorest district of Kraków.

There is an English language monthly paper called Kraków Post available for free in clubs and culture venues throughout the city, where you can check the news, events taking place and new bars that opened in Kraków any given month.

🌍 Kraków Airport (KRK  ^IATA, John Paul II International Airport Kraków - Balice). The city's airport is in Balice, 12 km west of the centre. Ryanair are a major operator here, with an ever-changing list of European destinations; Easyjet, Lufthansa, Wizz and Norwegian are among others. Ukraine is well-served but there is only seasonal service from Turkey and North America. Beyond Europe, there are flights from Dubai, Tel Aviv, Eilat and Amman. LOT domestic flights link Warsaw, Gdansk and Olsztyn, while Ryanair fly from Szczecin. The airport often suffers from fog in winter, with cancellations and diversions. There is a single terminal, with arrivals and check-in both in the same hall at street level. The currency provider is ICE, with rates for major currencies 15-20% either side of bank rate - poor value but average for an airport. There's a ground-side cafe but much better facilities upstairs airside, after security. A litre of Polish vodka for an EU passenger might be 60 zł. For non-Schengen departures, don't go through passport control until about an hour before your flight, as there's not much in the lounge beyond. Gates 17 / 18 are always non-Schengen, while Gates 9-16 and their waiting areas are switched back and forth. A dozen car rental kiosks are in Arrivals, only needed if you're touring the region, you can't take a car into Old Town. (updated Nov 2019)

To and from the city:

• Trains run between the airport (Kraków Lotnisko) upstairs hall and the main railway station (Kraków Główny). They run daily every 30 min between 04:00 and 00:30, taking 20 min. A single ticket costs 17 zł (return 34 zł), concessions half-price. Tickets can be purchased:
  • using cash on board (only Zloty and cards are accepted),
  • online from the regional rail company, you receive an e-ticket by email (the airport station is called Kraków Lotnisko, the main station is Kraków Główny),
  • ticket machines on the platform, the notoriously complicated ones have been replaced here so you should have no issue getting a ticket to Krakow Główny, the main station: choose the next train even if it's just about to depart, as your ticket will be okay on any train that day. Buy a return ticket at this occasion as only a few machines at the main station actually sell tickets to the airport - the PKP / Polregio machines cannot be used.

These trains also call at the western suburban stations of Kraków Olszanica, Zakliki, Młynówka and Łobzów; change at Główny for all other destinations. Trains are sometimes replaced by buses (badged "SKA" and taking 30-40 min), which are in addition to the regular city buses. Pay as for the trains, cash on board is simplest else you have to go upstairs to the railway ticket machines then come down again.

The airport bus stop is just outside Arrivals. The downtown terminus for 208, 902 and train replacement SKA buses is the forecourt that lies between the railway and bus stations outside the big Galeria Krakowska shopping mall - not the bus station itself. A single ride (day or night) costs 6.00 zł (3.00 zł for concessions eg ISIC/EURO 26 holders or age over 60). You need an "agglomeration ticket" valid for Zones I + II to cover the airport; city buses are cashless so you can't buy on boarding. Buy from a newsagent or from a ticket machine at the bus stop, and validate it immediately on boarding. For other types of tickets, see the ticket information of the operator MPK, and "Get around" below.

• Kraków Airport Taxi is the official taxi service, tel +48 12 258 0 258 or + 48 668 307 307 (open 06:00-22:00) or just rock up. There's a fixed fare per distance, posted on the airport website, reckon 90 zł to city centre. They're decent cars with decent drivers, and their big advantage is they can drop off and pick up within Old Town, which private cars can't.
• Prebooked transfer: several internet platforms offer pre-booked cars from Kraków Airport. You know the price when you book, and often get a better vehicle.
• Blacklane offer limousine transfers to town from about €40 / 180 zł one-way.
• E-hailing: Free Now (formerly MyTaxi), Uber and Bolt operate in Krakow, but not Yandex.

Other airports - where you might end up if you're diverted - include Katowice, Warsaw and Rzeszów. Closest is Katowice (KTW ^IATA), 100 km west of Kraków. It's a base for Wizzair and has flights all over Europe, including Kutaisi and Tblisi in Georgia. KTW airport is 30 km north of Katowice town, but there are connecting minibuses to town and direct to Kraków. You can easily day-trip from Katowice to Kraków and to Auschwitz, and the accommodation is a fraction of the price, but it's a drab place that you'd be unwise to pick for a romantic weekend.

Kraków has good rail connections. Two direct trains run from Berlin via Wrocław: 7 h 30 min daytime, 10 hours overnight which continues to Rzeszów and Przemyśl on the Ukraine border. From London, Paris or Amsterdam change in Berlin.

From Prague there's one direct train, taking 7 hr 30 min via Olomouc, Ostrava and Katowice and continuing from Kraków to Rzeszów and Przemyśl.

From Vienna one daytime and one overnight train take 6 hr via Ostrava, with other connections at Katowice.

From Budapest one daytime and one overnight train take 9-10 hr via Bratislava, Ostrava and Katowice, where a portion divides for Warsaw. The Kraków portion continues to Rzeszów and Przemyśl.

From Vilnius and Kaunas a daily train takes 16 hours via Warsaw. You change at the border but it's a seamless service.

Trains from Kyiv and Lviv in Ukraine involve a change, immigration and customs at Przemyśl, because it's an EU border and change of railway gauge. Trains run every hour or two from Przemyśl taking 3 hours via Rzeszów and Tarnów.

Trains run nonstop every two hours to Kraków from Warsaw (all three main stations), taking 2 hr 40 min: these originate from Gdynia and Gdańsk. Trains from Poznań run via Wrocław and Częstochowa to Kraków, continuing via Rzeszów to Przemyśl.

Trains from Poznań run every hour or two, taking 5 hr 30 min via Katowice. Two direct trains from Łódź take 3 hr.

Trains from Oświęcim, better known as Auschwitz, take just under 2 hours; some are direct but most involve a change at Trzebinia.

🌍 Kraków Główny railway station. The city's main railway station is next to the main bus station and just north of the bastions of Kraków Old Town. There's a left-luggage service, waiting room, and a limited choice of cafes and shops. For food you'll do much better in the big adjoining shopping mall Galeria Krakowska. Station staff have limited English, although the international ticket desk are okay, and most young Poles are pleased to show off their English and be helpful. (updated Oct 2021)

Flixbus (which has taken over Eurolines) runs to Kraków direct from Vienna (7 hr), Budapest (8 hr), Prague (8 hr), Berlin (8 hr), Hamburg (12 hr), Munich (13 hr), Cologne (14 hr), Venice (15 hr via Zagreb) and Amsterdam (20 hr).

Ecolines run daily to Kyiv (15 hr) and Odesa (15 hr), and occasionally to Kaunas, Riga, Tallinn, Moscow, St Petersburg and Athens.

Intercity buses within Poland are nowadays mostly run by Flixbus, which has also taken over Polskibus. From Warsaw there are about a dozen buses daily taking up to 5 hours. There are also direct buses from Gdańsk (9 hr), Szczecin (9 hr), Poznań (7 hr), Wrocław (3 hr), Łódź (4 hr), Katowice (hourly, 75 min), Przemyśl (4 hr) and Zakopane (hourly, 2 hr 20 min).

The central bus station is on the east side of the railway station. You'll struggle to find any information, in any language, about where to find your bus. However the airport buses don't depart from here but from the little forecourt at the shopping mall entrance.

The main highway to Kraków from the west is the A4 motorway from the German border, where it meets Autobahns A4 from Dresden and A13 from Berlin. There's a 20 zł toll on the section between Katowice and Kraków, pay by card or cash.

From Warsaw (300 km) use the E77, passing Radom and Kielce, and reckon 5 hours. It's a modern highway but has yet to be upgraded to or replaced by a motorway. For travelers flying out of Krakow, long-term parking facilities are available at Krakow-Balice Airport, providing a convenient option for those driving to the airport.

Depending on your level of fitness, you can see the whole of the city centre without needing any transport. There are some beautiful walking routes, try the Royal Way or the Planty park that surrounds the old city all the way from Florian's Gate to Wawel castle. It is very relaxing. There is also a well cared for river banks next to the castle just to stroll around.

However, in winter, snow is sometimes not removed from the sidewalks, resulting in a mixture of snow and mud. Be sure to bring waterproof shoes if you plan to travel by foot in the winter.

During the day, there is an excellent system of public transportation consisting of trams and buses managed by MPK (Miejskie Przedsiębiorstwo Komunikacyjne). On their website you can check routes or stops. Easyway journey planner finds the routes and schedules for a given trip. Rush hours are mostly 07:00-09:00 and 15:00-17:00 and you can spend a lot of time in traffic jams.

The official phone application Jakdojade (iOS, Android) is available to route you around Krakow and other Polish cities. You can buy tickets directly on the app. You can also buy tickets online but you need to register in advance in Mobilet (iOS, Android) or Skycash (iOS, Android) mobile services and download appropriate mobile application.

It's best to buy tickets before you get on board in a kiosk or ticket machine on the tram/bus stop (these are present mostly in the city centre and provide help in few languages). Those trams and buses that are equipped with ticket machines are marked with large "A" sign above the entrance. If there is no ticket machine on board you can buy the 5 zł ticket from the driver but you have to pay him with exact change (the driver will not accept a higher amount than the ticket price). If buying a ticket after mounting the vehicle try to be fast. Ticket controllers are fairly common and fines are quite high (250 zł) and a hassle.

As soon as you get on, punch the ticket in the validation machine. Tickets need to be punched only the first time you get on, don't do it again after changing a tram/bus. You can use a single ticket for multiple rides as long as its time period hasn't expired.

Ticket prices: single-fare/50-minute 4.60 zł, 20-minute 3.40 zł, 90-minute 6.00 zł, 24-hour (15 zł within city limits, 20 zł with agglomeration), 48-hour 28 zł, 72-hour 42 zł, 7-day (56 zł within city limits, 68 zł with agglomeration), family ticket (Sa Su only, unlimited daytime traveling) 16 zł.

ISIC and Euro26 student holders that study outside Poland can use 50% discounted tickets which means: 20-minute 1.70 zł, single-fare/50-minute 2.30 zł, 90-minute 3.00 zł, 24-hour 7.50 zł/10 zł, 48-hour 14 zł, 72-hour 21 zł, 7-day 28 zł/34 zł.

When travelling to neighbouring villages or to the airport you need an agglomeration (zone) ticket. All buses that go outside the city limits have 2 or 3 at the beginning of their line number. Keep in mind that not all time passes mentioned above are valid outside the city, and you will need to purchase a zone ticket separately. Zone tickets are slightly more expensive than city ones and follow similar time system.

Night bus and tram lines start with 6 (or 9 when zone) at the beginning of their line number. Ticket prices during the night are the same. 24-, 48- and 72-hour, as well as 7-day tickets are valid on night buses.

Tram and bus stops show routes and most kiosks will be able to advise you on route numbers. Modern trams and most of the modern buses also display the route inside on the screens and announce each stop.

Don't bother driving in the city centre. There's often a lot of traffic, parking spaces are scarce and can be expensive, and Polish driving takes a lot of getting used to. There are also rules around local 'driving zones', that ban non-resident's vehicles from entering them. Especially in the city center it's easy to enter such a zone without knowing - there are rectangle blue signs that mark the entrance to the zones. The taxis are cheap and it makes more sense to use them.

Taxis, reliable and fair play taxi drivers from the airport or for a longer transfer should be booked in advance by the Internet. For instance, Kraków airport transfer to Kraków costs around 70 zł. During the day, most fares will be around 20 zł. All taxis should have a 'Taxi' sign on the roof and a sticker on the rear passenger window with prices. There is an initial charge of about 5-7 zł, plus 2-3 zł per kilometre. Price list should be shown on the passenger side door.

iCar is one of the cheapest taxi companies and will quote you the prices in advance (based on the real distance between you and your destination). An 8 km ride will run you about 22 zł. Uber is also a great option as it can be cheaper than the local taxi services.

There are instances where drivers will overcharge tourists, especially those who don't speak Polish. Check on a map in advance how much it should be and if it goes much above that, debate the price.

If you really want to travel by car, you can use Traficar carsharing service, although if you're not a Polish citizen, you may need to register for a service in person on Rzemieślnicza 26 before the first use.

It is easy to get around the centre on two wheels, as there are some bike lanes, including through the 'Planty' that surround the Old Town. Some bike rentals also provide city and country tours.

• Bike Rental, ul. św. Anny 4, ☏ +48 501 745 986, office@bike-rental.pl. In summer from 09:00 till dusk. They have a tandem. 7 zł for 1hr, 40 zł for 24hr. 
• Cruising Kraków, ul. Basztowa 17, ☏ +48 12 312 60 20, info@cruisingkrakow.com. 09:00-20:00. 20 zł for the first 3 hr, 40 zł for 24 hr. 
• Happy Bike, ul. Mogilska 51, ☏ +48 504 982 043, sklep@happybike.pl. 40zł/24 hr. 
• Two Wheels, ul. Józefa 5 (Kazimierz), ☏ +48 12 421 57 85. 10:00-18:00. 50 zł for 24 hr. 

You can take a cruise on the Vistula River. It is a good way to explore the city and learn about the history of Krakow's monuments. The shipowners offer cruises around Krakow and cruises to the historic monastery in Tyniec.

• Krakowska Żegluga Pasażerska, Bulwar Czerwieński 3 (Under the Wawel Royal Castle), ☏ +48 505 102 677, rejs@statekkrakow.com. 10:00-23:00. 70 zł for 60 min. (updated Mar 2023)

• Tramway Wodny w Krakowie, Galeria Kazimierz, ☏ +48 608 496 800, rejs@statekkrakow.com. 10:00–18:00. 18 zł/15 zł in Kraków, 60 zł/50 zł to Tyniec. (updated Apr 2023)

• Jewish Culture Festival (Festiwal Kultury Żydowskiej). A classic, one the biggest Jewish culture festivals in the world. A week of tours, concerts, workshops on cuisine, dance, music and calligraphy topped with a huge final show on Saturday evening. June/July 
• Bajit Chadasz (New Home in Hebrew). Jewish culture festival, organised by Jewish Cultural Centre in Kazimierz with concerts, exhibitions and lectures. 
• Krakow Film Festival. One of the oldest film events dedicated to documentary, animated and short fiction films in Europe. In a week over 200 films are shown in around six cinemas (10 screens) around the city and in an open air one next to Wawel castle. May 
• Off Camera. International festival of independent cinema. April 
• Etiuda&Anima. International film festival built around animations and short films. November 
• Photomonth. One month long festival with around forty different photography exhibitions around the city. May 
• Live Music Festival. Typical summer open air music fest. Stars that appeared past years include: Kanye West, Muse, The Chemical Brothers, 50 Cent. second half of August 
• Unsound. World-renowned experimental music and art event. October (updated Aug 2016)
• Sacrum Profanum. Music fest with concerts of such stars as Steve Reich, Aphex Twin or Kraftwerk taking place in unusual places like churches, museums and factories. September 
• Wianki. St. John's Night (Midsummer) celebration. An evening of concerts finished with a fireworks show taking place on Vistula river banks next to Wawel castle. A booze-up. June 
• Independence Day on 11 Nov is celebrated throughout Poland, but is an especially big event here. There are grand parades, and Wawel is closed to routine visits.
• Christmas Market: this is the oldest such market in Poland, held from the end of November to the end of December in Main Market Square.
• Krakowskie Noce (Krakow Nights). Five nights (one in each month from May to September): Night of Museums (free museums), Night of Theatres (free theatres), Night of Jazz (free jazz concerts), Cracovia Sacra Night (free concerts of church music) and Night of Poetry (free poetic evenings). 
• There are regular events at TAURON Arena (a large sports and concert arena) and ICE (a new congress centre).
• Krakow Rugby Festival Held annually every 3rd weekend of June. A 2-day rugby festival for amateur male and female rugby teams (senior and Vets) from all over the world. Held at the 's stadium (Polish EkstraLiga rugby team) in Na Bloniach 7 street.

• Football: Cracovia play soccer in Ekstraklasa, the top tier. Wisła Kraków play in I Liga the second tier, and Garbania play in II Liga the third tier. All three are based in the west of the city.
• Ice hockey: Cracovia play in Polska Hokej Liga the top tier. Their home rink Lodowisko Cracovii is on Michała Siedleckiego in Kazimierz district.
• Golf courses near the city include:

Krakow Valley Golf & Country Club. Paczółtowice 328, Krzeszowice. Also a hotel, shooting range and horse rides. 

Royal Kraków Golf & Country Club. Ochmanów 124, Podłęże. Between Wieliczka and Niepołomice. Also a hotel. 

• A tatanka is a unique (and delicious) Polish beverage made with apple juice and a special kind of vodka called żubrówka, which is flavoured with bison grass. It is also often referred to as a szarlotka, or apple cake. Tatanka is a Native American term for bison.
• Wódka miodowa is a honey vodka, often served chilled in shots. Some of the better Polish-themed restaurants will have house brands.
• Śliwowica, a plum brandy, is worth watching out for. There are two main variants: an 80-proof (40%) yellow tinged one and a 140-proof (70%) clear variety. While the 80-proof variety is often smooth and flavorful, some have compared the 140-proof to drinking gasoline. A good way to drink it is to deal with it like with an absinthe. Take a small spoon with sugar, put some Sliwowica on it and fire it. Let the sugar melt down for a while (10–30 seconds). Then, mix the flaming sugar with the rest of the drink. Let it burn for 5–10 seconds, then blow it and drink it. Watch out and don't burn your lips! You can also let it burn longer, but then use a straw to drink it to avoid burning your fingers or lips.
• Grzaniec, a sort of heated wine with cloves and other spices, very popular around Christmas when sold on Market Square.
• Wściekły pies, a shot of plain vodka with tabasco and raspberry sauces in the bottom. Must be drunk in one gulp. The name can be translated as rabid dog. Definitely worth trying.
• Kamikaze, a set of several shots of vodka-based alcohol sold usually in clubs. It usually contains equal parts of vodka, blue curacao and lime juice. Should be drunk in one gulp, one shot after another.

Warning: If you party with Poles you should be aware that some of them consume bigger dosage of alcohol than you're used to. Don't try to keep up with your Polish friends and make sure you have plenty of breaks when drinking.

Thanks to their proximity to each other, Kraków's watering holes are ideal for bar hopping. Many locals and tourists have spent nights partying from the Old Town all the way to Vistula River at the end of Kazimierz. Walk down ul. Szeroka or head over to Plac Nowy for streets full of bars.

The newly-opened Tytano district offers a loft-style, London-like selection of cocktail-bars, restaurants and clubs. It's based in the proximity of the city centre on the corner of Dolnych Młynów and Czarnowiejska streets. If you're looking for a place to relax, there is plenty of bars to choose from there.

In the warmer months, Kraków's nightlife moves outdoors into hundreds of sidewalk cafes and beer gardens. When winter comes around, it moves underground into cellars all around the city.

Kraków is not only full of cosy cafes but is also said to be the place of the first cafe founded in Europe. Most cafes offer good espresso and something to nibble at a very reasonable price. As a rule, international-looking places are much more expensive.

There are few campsites in Kraków, most of them closed in colder months. All provide some space for tents and caravans as well.

There are plenty of decent clean backpacker hostels in the Old Town and Kazimierz. Expect to pay 40-60 zł for a dorm bed, including breakfast (bread, jam, and cheese), laundry, sheets, lockers, and internet access.

Kraków has lots of hotels all over the city. Big corporate ones (Sheraton, Qubus etc.) are near the centre, most often on Vistula banks. In the Old Town there are some reasonably priced and some pretty luxurious and expensive. A good alternative may be booking a hotel in the far ends of Kazimierz District or in Podgórze, by the Vistula river.

A good way to stay in Kraków is to rent private accommodation. You can usually get a one bedroom for €60-90 a night, located in the Old Town. There are two agencies opposite the main railway station offering rooms. If you hang around the street outside the agencies for a while, some landlords will approach you and make an offer. This saves you the commission but may be a bit unsafe.

As a result of Nazi German and Soviet terror, modern Poland is a very homogeneous society. Even though quite a few Asian and African migrants have settled in the larger cities (including Kraków) in the last couple of years, it is still quite rare to see non-Caucasians on the Polish streets. If you are a non-white traveller do not be surprised (or alarmed) if some people (especially young children) stare at you with curiosity. The overwhelming majority of Poles is composed of warm, hospitable people who are often curious to learn more about other cultures. Racist incidents are extremely rare, but, just like anywhere else in Europe, have taken place. If you are unfortunate enough to experience racism or too much curiosity, it is important not to get yourself involved in a confrontation. Walk away instead.

As in any major tourist city, there are people trying to take advantage of travellers. Generally, use common sense and follow simple precautions. Below is a list of the most common scams:

In line with its reputation as an inexpensive all-male trip destination, Kraków is unfortunately notorious for the bar scams typical of many popular tourist destinations. The scam, in short, involves being chatted up by attractive women and invited to join them in a club for drinks. The bill for the drinks then turns out to run up multifold of what one might have expected to pay. Two establishments notorious for perpetrating this are Saxon Club and Hard Candy, but you may be asked to follow your newly acquired company to nondescript premises not appearing to be a public open club as well.

A few Kraków visitors have been victim to the hotel scam. After a long day of travel, the victim is awakened when their hotel room phone rings. It's the receptionist apologising for the late hour but asking to verify credit card details. The victim reads them out and drifts back to sleep. As Kraków guides know, there is a growing black market for stolen credit card numbers, and the chances are that even before the victim remembers this late night conversation there will be high charges to contest, possibly even ending their vacation early.

When using a taxi always ask for a price for your journey before you leave. Scam taxis have been found to operate near to the main railway station. They are legally registered as "transportation services" and charge €20/km. The prices of regular taxis are limited by law, and the price list is easily visible. It should be around 2.30 zł per kilometre, with an initial fee of 7 zł (first kilometre included in price). Reliable licensed taxi companies include Taxi Barbakan, Taxi Dwójki, Lajkonik Taxi and Taxi 19191. While it is legal for "transportation services" to charge people as much as they like, their prices must be clearly displayed and must be clearly stated when you ask the driver. If you do not agree with the price, do not use the service. The best way to get a reliable taxi is to call them by phone (you can do it by yourself or ask hotel staff to do it for you).

A common scam at Krakow airport (and most Polish airports for that matter) is for taxi or Uber drivers to accost travellers before they leave the airport and offer them a ride. These usually charge abhorrently high fares compared to actual taxi drivers. If you see someone approach you when leaving the airport, simply say no and use the official apps of Uber or Bolt instead.

Look very closely what the buy rate is when you exchange your currency into PLN, and ask for the exact rate in writing. Do not let the clerk point on the chart with rates; insist on their quoting the rate for you beforehand on a piece of paper. Very often the rate is displayed not on an electronic board, but with digits on small tiles; it may happen that a small tile with a zero is partially slid right under the comma in the "buy" rate, so e.g. instead of 3.45 zł the actual rate is 3.045 zł. This is difficult to notice and the clerks do not accept any complaints after you receive your money. Victims may lose up to 20% of the exchanged amount. This practice is definitely unfair and on the verge of legality. It has been described and condemned in the local press. However, if the tile with 0 is visible at least in half, the booth owner may escape responsibility, as your acceptance of the rates is assumed. Remember the rule of thumb - spread between the "buy" and "sell"rates should not exceed 2-3% of the "buy" rate on the main currencies (EUR, USD, GBP) and 5% on secondary currencies (CHF, JPY, SEK, NOK). Stick to banks (even if the rate is slightly worse, it is still perfectly acceptable) or large currency exchange points.

The currency exchange point at the railway station usually operates at rip-off spreads. Avoid at all costs, unless you are in a big hurry or selling złoty. Also avoid the exchange points at the airport, or exchange only the amount for the ticket to the city centre.

Best rates are available on Sławkowska Street, extending from the north-west corner of the Main Market Square.

Jaywalking is enforced in Kraków. If you're jaywalking (crossing at a red light for pedestrian, outside of a zebra-crossing), even if it was perfectly safe (you looked on both sides, there was no car coming, etc.), there are chances that a police officer will wait for you on the other side of the street, and give you a 100 zł ticket for doing so: tourist or not, you will have to pay for it.

As of Nov 2019, the following had consular services in Krakow:

• France, ul. Stolarska 15, +48 12 424 53 00.
• Germany, ul. Stolarska 7, +48 12 424 30 00.
• Hungary, ul. Lubicz 18, +48 12 359 99 20
• Russia, ul. Biskupia 7, +48 12 422 26 47, but the Visa Office is at Krótka 1.
• Ukraine, ul. Beliny-Prażmowskiego 4, +48 12 429 60 66.
• United States, ul. Stolarska 9, +48 12 424 51 00.