Jordan

During early and classical antiquity, the area of what is now Jordan was home to ancient kingdoms. Among them were Ammon, Edom and Moab. It was part of the Persian Empire and the Roman Empire.

Jordan was also home to civilizations such as the Nabataean Kingdom. Its rock art and architecture can be found in a few places across the country.

Before World War I, the entire Levant was part of the Ottoman Empire. In 1916, during World War I, the Great Arab Revolt was launched against the Ottomans with help from the British and one Thomas Edward Lawrence (aka Lawrence of Arabia). The revolt was successful in gaining control of most of territories of the Hejaz and the Levant. However, it failed to gain international recognition as an independent state, due mainly to the secret Sykes–Picot Agreement between the United Kingdom and France in 1916 (dividing up the Middle East between the two colonial powers) and the UK's Balfour Declaration of 1917 (promising a national home for the Jews on a small piece of land in the Middle East). The region was divided and Abdullah I, the second son of Sharif Hussein, arrived from Hejaz by train in Ma'an in southern Jordan, where he was greeted by Transjordanian leaders. Abdullah established the Emirate of Transjordan, which then became a British protectorate.

In September 1922, the Council of the League of Nations recognized Transjordan as a state under the British Mandate for Palestine and the Trans-Jordan memorandum. The memorandum clarified that the territories east of the Jordan River were excluded from provisions that allowed Jewish settlement in the Mandate. The Treaty of London, signed by the British Government and the Emir of Transjordan on 22 March 1946, recognised the independence of Transjordan upon ratification by both countries' parliaments. On 25 May 1946 the Emirate of Transjordan became "the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan", as the ruling Emir was re-designated as "King" by the parliament of Transjordan.

On 15 May 1948, as part of the 1948 Arab–Israeli War, Jordan invaded Mandatory Palestine with other Arab states. Following the war, Jordan occupied the West Bank including East Jerusalem and many Muslim, Christian and Jewish Holy Sites and declared that the annexation was a "temporary, practical measure" and that Jordan was holding the territory as a "trustee" pending a future settlement. King Abdullah was assassinated at the Al-Aqsa Mosque in 1951 by a Palestinian militant, amid rumors he intended to sign a peace treaty with Israel. Abdullah was succeeded by his son Talal, but Talal soon abdicated due to illness in favor of his eldest son Hussein, who ascended the throne in 1953. During Jordanian occupation, Jews had to leave the West Bank and access to Jewish Holy Sites was severely restricted. Jordan lost the West Bank to Israel during the Six Day War in 1967. In the following year, an attack by Israeli forces on the headquarters of the Palestine Liberation Organization in Karameh was met by resistance by a joint Jordanian-PLO force. In the aftermath of the resulting 15-hour battle, the Jordanian government permitted the Palestinians to take credit for Israeli casualties. Following the Battle of Karameh there was an upsurge of support for Palestinian paramilitary elements (the fedayeen) within Jordan from other Arab countries, leading to the fedayeen becoming a "state within a state", threatening Jordan's rule of law. In September 1970, the Jordanian army targeted the fedayeen and the resultant fighting led to the expulsion of Palestinian fighters from various PLO groups into Lebanon, in a civil war that became known as Black September. Jordan renounced its claims to the West Bank in 1988.

The Israel-Jordan Treaty of Peace was signed on 26 October 1994. On 7 February 1999, Abdullah II ascended the throne upon the death of his father Hussein. Jordan's economy has improved since then. Abdullah II has been credited with increasing foreign investment, improving public-private partnerships and providing the foundation for Aqaba's free-trade zone and Jordan's flourishing information and communication technology (ICT) sector. As a result of these reforms, Jordan's economic growth has doubled to 6% annually compared to the latter half of the 1990s. However, the Great Recession and regional turmoil in the 2010s severely crippled the Jordanian economy and its growth, making it increasingly reliant on foreign aid.

The Arab Spring began sweeping the Arab world in 2011, with large-scale protests erupting and demands for economic and political reforms. In Jordan, Abdullah II responded to protests by replacing his prime minister and introducing various reforms, thereby satisfying the people sufficiently to avoid the civil conflict, regime change or chaos that broke out in some other Arab countries.

There is no hostility between Muslims and Christians in Jordan, which is one of the most liberal nations in the region. Jordan is considered to be among the safest of Arab countries in the Middle East, and has historically managed to keep itself away from terrorism and instability. In the midst of surrounding turmoil, it has been greatly hospitable, accepting refugees from almost all surrounding conflicts since 1948, including the estimated 2 million Palestinians and the 1.4 million Syrian refugees residing in the country. The kingdom is also a refuge to thousands of Iraqi Christians and Yazidis who fled the Islamic State. While the Jordanian royal house holds much less power than the Saudi royal family, they aren't ceremonial figures like in most of Europe, either. However, relations with the West - including Israel - are usually quite friendly and domestic policies also tend to be moderate by the standards of the region.

The climate in Jordan varies greatly. Generally, the further inland from the Mediterranean, greater contrasts in temperature occur and the less rainfall there is. The country's average elevation is 812 m (2,664 ft) above sea level. The highlands above the Jordan Valley, mountains of the Dead Sea and Wadi Araba and as far south as Ras Al-Naqab are dominated by a Mediterranean climate, while the eastern and northeastern areas of the country are arid desert. Although the desert parts of the kingdom reach high temperatures, the heat is usually moderated by low humidity and a daytime breeze, while the nights are cool.

Summers, lasting from May to September, are hot and dry, with temperatures averaging around 32 °C (90 °F) and sometimes exceeding 40 °C (104 °F) between July and August. The winter, lasting from November to March, is relatively cool, with temperatures averaging around 13 °C (55 °F). Winter also sees frequent showers and occasional snowfall in some western elevated areas.

• Visitor Jordan website.

For the latest, up-to-date and complete information, please check out the Jordan Tourism Board.

Nationals from Arab countries can enter Jordan without a visa and for free.

Jordan's visa regulations are rather confusing and often change. Moreover, the rules vary depending on the border point where you cross the border.

Visitors from most other countries (even Israeli citizens and Israeli passport holders) can easily obtain a visa on arrival at the border point directly, except for the King Hussein ("Allenby") Bridge, where a visa is not issued on spot and must be obtained in advance through the Embassy of Jordan.

Some nationalities may require a visa before arrival (many African countries, Afghanistan, Albania, Bangladesh, Belize, Cambodia, Colombia, Cuba, Iran, Iraq, Laos, Moldova, Mongolia, Myanmar, Nepal, Pakistan, Papua New Guinea, Philippines, Sri Lanka, Vietnam, and Yemen).

The visa prices are:

• 40 JD for one month & single entry (easily extended – up to twice – at the nearest police station)
• 60 JD for three months & double entries
• 120 JD for six months & multiple entries (not extendible)

For the single entry visa the fee of 40 JD is waived if you have purchased a Jordan Pass before arrival, see details below.

Furthermore, there are extra fees involved if you stay only a couple of days in Jordan (1-3 days). The regular single entry visa through Jordan Pass, for example, is not waived – see #Jordan Pass for details.

There is a departure fee of 10 JD when exiting Jordan by land or sea, if one stayed in the country for 2 nights or less. There is no tax if in the country for longer than two nights. At the Aqaba/Eilat border crossing, the border police will now not give the exit stamp without paying this tax first, if applicable (June 2022).

You can receive a free, one-month ASEZA visa if you arrive at Aqaba (aka Aqaba Economic Zone) by land (from Eilat in Israel or Saudi Arabia), by sea (ferry from Egypt at Nuweiba), or by air (at Aqaba International Airport). You can check here whether you are entitled with your nationality to get the free visa.

If you receive a free ASEZA visa, you will have to exit the country through the same entry point. It's important to keep in mind that if you enter Jordan through Aqaba Free zone with the free visa, but leave Jordan via another border crossing (for example fly out from Amman, or enter Israel through the northern border), you must pay 40 JD for a visa that you did not pay entering through Aqaba.

The ASEZA visa allows free travel throughout Jordan. There is no tax for leaving the Aqaba Economic Zone and crossing into the rest of the country. There are road checkpoints when leaving ASEZA, but these are no concern for foreigners. Usually, the control is either waived for tourists or minimally done (just show your passport; if driving, show also your driving license, car registration and open the trunk).

The free ASEZA visa can also be obtained at almost all other crossings (except King Hussein "Allenby" Bridge), by stating that you are going to Aqaba. There will be no 40 JD charge for the entry visa, but you are obliged to arrive in Aqaba in maximum 48 hours and get a stamp from a police station in Aqaba or from the 🌍 ASEZA (Aqaba Special Economic Zone Authority) headquarters, go to window #18: "Residency permit renewal". If the Aqaba late-arrival stamp is not in your passport, at departure you will pay the 40 JD charge for the entry visa plus a fine of 1.50 JD/day, for each day non-registered (the day you entered Jordan is counted as day 1, even if you entered at 23:59).

If you want to enter through Aqaba and do not want to get the ASEZA visa, you must ask the customs officer to put the normal visa in your passport and pay the normal visa fee.

This border crossing between the West Bank and Jordan is called King Hussein Bridge on the Jordanian and Allenby Bridge on the Israeli side, but using the latter in Amman is likely to cause perplexion or even hostility.

The Allenby Bridge is an Israeli-managed crossing mainly used by Palestinians to travel internationally because Palestinians are required by Israel to use the airport in Amman in Jordan rather than the airport in Tel Aviv.

This crossing does not allow private vehicles of any kind, but relies solely on public transport.

This border crossing does not offer visa on-arrival for Jordan. So, you need to obtain yours beforehand, e.g. at the Jordanian Embassies in Ramallah or Tel Aviv/Ramat Gan (40/60/120 JD single, double, multi). See Jordan#Visa for more details.

Also, this is the only border crossing point where entry to Jordan (and exit) is not allowed on an Israeli passport because it connects directly to the West Bank.

For entering the West Bank from Jordan, the usual visa-free entrance rules for Israel apply, since the checkpoint on the western side is operated by Israel. Hence, plan your travel documents accordingly.

If leaving Jordan through this border crossing, you can return to Jordan through the same crossing point on the same visa you got when entering Jordan in the first place (except for ASEZA visas) if its validity has not expired.

You will not receive an exit stamp from Jordan here, and you will not be stamped on re-entry if you choose to return through the same border crossing (this one).

The exit fee to leave the West Bank and Israel through this border crossing is ₪176. (In Aqaba and Sheikh Hussein the exit fee is just ₪113.)

The exit fee into the opposite way to leave Jordan is 10 JD, payable in cash and JD only, as of 2023.

• Jordanian side: Sa–Th 07:10-00:00, F 07:10-03:00
• Israeli side: Daily until 20:00; F and Sa until 12:00 (but some say 15:30).

Bear in mind that the border can be closed with relatively little warning, especially if the security situation in the West Bank escalates.

There are direct shared taxi between Jerusalem (Al-Souq Al-Tijaree (the commercial souq) not far from the main bus station) and this checkpoint for ₪38 (or 11 JD) plus ₪4 per piece of luggage. Also, the Palestinian bus company (outside the checkpoint to the right, red buses) offers connections to/from Jericho and Ramallah—Ramallah and Jerusalem are connected by sherut. Note, you are not allowed to walk away from this checkpoint to catch a regular bus into Israel from the bus stop 2.7 km away.

At the checkpoint Israeli officials process passport control and customs, including exit fees for exit from Israel. Inside you'll go through a security check (bag scans and metal detector) and proceed to passport control. Be warned, there is no queuing system, and people tend to shove their way to the front. Additionally, there is some VIP service that seems some varying level of formal/informal but allows some passengers to skip queues and move straight to the front for a fee.

When proceeding to passport control into Israel, you will be given a small blue and white card with your photo on it that says B2 visa. This is your entry proof in effect and must be kept with your passport at all times (and will be asked for when you check into hotels, etc). They will not stamp your passport entering Israel.

The land between the Israeli and the Jordanian checkpoints consists of an open road of a few kilometers that must be crossed by (JETT) bus. While online guides will note that passengers with a JETT ticket from Amman will have this bus included, this seems to no longer be the case as of April 2023.

Either way, the bus is 7 JD, plus 1.5 JD for each of your bags. This payment must be made in cash, though they will also accept US dollars or euros (at a terrible rate). Even though the no man's land stretch is only a few kilometers, it includes two check points and can often taken hours of waiting, and sometimes only takes a few minutes—often with no real rhyme or reason on why it will be one or the other.

This will eventually take you to the other checkpoint, where you will de-board the bus with all of your belongings and proceed to the next checkpoint.

When entering Jordan, since all your visa and Jordan Pass requirements needed to be sorted out beforehand, there is nothing more to do than passing the checkpoint. Also, here no need to pay any fee this way.

The other way around, when leaving Jordan, you will take all of your belonging with you, go through a quick security scan, and then find yourself in a small room with four windows. There is very little signage but you will need to go to three windows in total. The first is a customs window, where you'll fill out a small slip of paper with your full name, nationality, date of birth, and exit date. The first window will stamp this slip and send you to a payment window, where you will pay the exit fee—Jordanian dinars in cash only, as of April 2023. Once you paid, you will be given a slip with two perforated slips that are then stamped. You will then move to the last window, where you will hand the officer your passport, and both slips (the two perforated slips and the slip with your name/nationality/birth date/exit date). They will then take your passport and keep it in a stack with the ones of th other travellers. You will then be directed to wait in a small seating area until you are directed to board the bus to the Israeli checkpoint. On the bus, the driver will come around and redistribute all passports, and a border control agent will come to double check your exit visa slips.

At least one JETT bus connects the Jordanian checkpoint with Amman: JETT office at Abdali, 11 JD, 06:30–07:15 from Amman, takes about 1 hr. The other way around, the bus stop near the Jordanian checkpoint is not immediately visible (when getting out of the border office). Thus, many taxi drivers will pretend that there are no buses, which is untrue. (Nevertheless, they should be no more than 20–25 JD per ride.) Also, there are shared (white) taxis between here and the Tabarbour / Northern Bus Terminal in Amman (5–9 JD per person for up to four people, 20 JD per ride), but also other destinations.

Expect travel between Amman and the old city of Jerusalem to take at least 3 hr. Travellers regularly experience waits that can vary anywhere between 2–12 hr. Hence, it's a good idea to try to get to the border as early as possible, especially in the busy summer season.

If you mention any West Bank destinations in your itinerary to the Israeli border guards, this will arouse suspicion and potentially additional scrutiny and waiting time. Thus, it is just best to avoid mentioning Palestine at all while passing the border.

Jordan shares borders with four countries: Israel, Saudi Arabia, Syria, and Iraq. For very obvious reasons, entering Jordan from Israel or Saudi Arabia is strongly recommended and advisable.

Besides the King Hussein "Allenby" Bridge, the Sheikh Hussein Bridge (aka Jordan River crossing near Beit Shean) allows entry into Jordan from Northern Israel, and the Eilat/Aqaba crossing (aka Wadi Araba aka Yitzhak Rabin) from Southern Israel (see on-arrival visa limitations above).

For both you will have to pay an Israeli departure tax of ₪113, plus a processing fee of ₪6. For all details including a complete fee catalogue and opening hours (which should consequently also apply to the Jordanian side) see the Israel Airports Authority website.

There are daily buses from Nazareth via the Sheikh Hussein bridge, call the operator (☏ +972 4 657-3984) for details. A fare is ₪80 one way. Alternatively, you can take a regular bus/taxi to the Sheikh Hussein bridge, cross the border on foot, and get into Irbid or Amman by bus.

To get to the southern crossing by bus take one to Eilat. Several buses run here, including the 444 which follows a route along the Dead Sea. From Eilat Bus Station, the border is around 3 km, reachable by taxi for around ₪45-50. Alternatively, you can exit the bus at the second last stop at "Yitzhak Rabin Crossing / Highway 90" and walk the last 1.5 km to the border. When on the Jordanian side, pay attention to the Aqaba border taxi cartel, and only use a taxi from there for the shortest distance possible, and swap into a cheaper taxi or even bus afterwards.

If you cross by car, border formalities are time-consuming and expensive as a Jordanian insurance is required, and you will even have to change your number plates, since it is not advisable to travel in Arab countries while displaying an Israeli number plate. Israeli rental cars are not permitted across the borders for insurance reasons.

Given the ongoing civil war, entering Jordan from Syria is not advisable at this time.

It is possible to enter Jordan from Iraq depending on your nationality, but because of the current situation in Iraq, it is not advisable, and you will be looked at a lot more closely than if entering from elsewhere.

Entry from Saudi Arabia is by bus. Jordan-bound buses can be taken from almost any point in Saudi Arabia or the Gulf. Most of these are used by Arabs. The border crossing, called Al-Haditha on the Saudi side, and Al-Omari on the Jordanian side, has been rebuilt. Waiting time at customs and passport control is not too long by Middle Eastern standards, but allow for up to 5 hours on the Saudi side. As the crossing is in the middle of the desert, be absolutely sure that all paper work is in order before attempting the journey, otherwise you might be lost in a maze of Arab bureaucracy. The trip from the border to Amman is 3 hr and up to 20 hr to Dammam, Riyadh or Jeddah on the Saudi side. The trip can be uncomfortable but is cheap.

Jordan's national airline is Royal Jordanian Airlines. In addition, Jordan is served by foreign carriers including Air France, Lufthansa, Turkish Airlines, Egypt Air, Emirates and Delta Air Lines. Low-cost airline Air Arabia serves the Middle East, and Aegean Airlines and TAROM serve Europe. Ryanair also offers direct flights to Amman from Belgium, Italy, Poland, Hungary, Romania, Czech Republic and Lithuania.

• 🌍 Queen Alia International Airport. This is the country's main airport. It is 35 km (22 mi) south of Amman (on the main route to Aqaba). You should allow 45 minutes to reach the airport from the downtown Amman, approximately 30 min from West Amman. Read on Amman for further details. 

• 🌍 King Hussein International Airport (in Aqaba into ASEZA.). 

Jordan can be entered at the port of Aqaba (ASEZA) via the Egyptian port of Nuweiba. There are two services, ferry and speedboat. Expect to pay around US$60 for the ferry or around US$70 for the speedboat (both one way + US$10 or LE50 departure tax from Egypt) if you are a non-Egyptian national (Egyptians are not required to pay the prices inflated by the authorities). The slow ferry might take up to 8 hr, and can be a nightmare in bad weather. The speedboat consistently makes the crossing in about an hour, though boarding and disembarking delays can add many hours, especially since there are no fixed hours for departures. You cannot buy the ticket in advance and the ticket office does not know the time of departure. You can lose an entire afternoon or even a day waiting for the boat to leave.

Also see Aqaba#By boat from Egypt and Ferries in the Red Sea for more details and options.

There are no international trains to Jordan. However, Saudi Arabia Railways runs trains from Riyadh to the border town of Al Qurayyat from where one can continue by bus or taxi the last kilometers into Jordan.

Jordan is one of the easiest countries to hitch-hike in. It is not uncommon to wait less than 5-10 min before getting picked up. Especially if you are not from the US or such, people are happy to take you along the way and immediately will raise topics like FCB, Paris, Bayern Munich, or pizza depending on your nationality. In addition, hitch-hiking is made even easier by the fact that many tourists with guides or rental cars will pick you up if they see you are not from around the region. Although Jordan is targeted by extremists, hitch-hiking is not more dangerous than in other countries taking into account the high likelihood of getting picked up by someone. Even on a holiday in off season you will barely wait more than 10 min for someone to stop.

To get a ride just let your arm hang and use your hand to wave towards you, or point down towards the road with your index and middle finger. Don't put up the hitch-hiking thumb, this seems to be impolite. In some countries, it is common to pay even for hitch-hikes. Here it is not. Though, for example along the hotel promenade of the Dead Sea, locals might demand a small amount, but anything beyond 2 JD for 10 km is too much – take bus prices as an orientation, just in case.

Combining this with local (mini) buses (which ever comes first) is an efficient and inexpensive way to discover and experience Jordan, and meet interesting and friendly locals.

The JETT bus company has services connecting Amman to Aqaba, the King Hussein Bridge (to cross into Israel), and Hammamat Ma'in. Private buses (mainly operated by the Hijazi company) run from Amman to Irbid and Aqaba. Minibus services connect smaller towns on a much more irregular service basis – usually they leave once they're full.

The Abdali transport station near Downtown Amman served as a bus/taxi hub to locations throughout Jordan, but many of its services (especially microbus and service taxi) have been relocated to the new Northern bus station (also called Tarbarboor, or Tareq). Here you can find buses into Israel,1 JD bus to Jerash/Dead sea and a 3.50 JD bus to Queen Alia airport.

Be aware that drivers at the Northern bus station can lie about ticket price, so pay together with other people - buses are departing as soon as they are getting full and special man will collect money from everyone before departure.

Service taxis or so called servees cover much the same routes as buses. They are definitely more expensive than minibuses, but a lot faster and more convenient.

Servees only leave when full so there is no set timetable. You may also be approached by private cars operating as service taxis. If you use one of these, it is important to agree the price in advance.

Servees are generally white or cream in colour. They can sometimes be persuaded to deviate from their standard route if they are not already carrying passengers. It is quite likely that you would be asked to wait for a yellow taxi though.

Regular taxis are abundant in most cities. They are bright yellow and are generally in good condition. A 10 km trip should cost around 2 JD.

All yellow taxis should be metered, however most drivers outside Amman do not use them. If you do get picked up by such or even unmetered taxi, make sure you agree on the price before departing – per drive and not per person! If you do not agree on a price, you will most likely pay double the going rate. Using the meter is almost always cheaper than negotiating a price. So, it is best to insist that the driver uses it before you depart. Keep your luggage with you – it's not uncommon for unmetered taxis to charge a ridiculous rate (30 JD for a 10-min ride) and then refuse to open the trunk to give you your bags back until you pay up.

Standardised but inflated taxi prices from the Eilat/Aqaba border crossing are:

• Wadi Rum (one way) 39 JD
• Wadi Rum (round trip including waiting time) 55 JD
• Petra (one way) 55 JD
• Petra (round trip including waiting time) 88 JD
• Amman (and suburbs) 109 JD
• Dead Sea 99 JD

Although, it might be a better idea to take a taxi into Aqaba and from there take a different taxi and renegotiate the price.

Day rates for taxis can be negotiated. These are usually through specific taxi drivers that have offered the service to friends or colleagues before. If you are staying at a hotel, the reception desk should be able to find you a reliable driver. It is also quite common in quiet times to be approached (politely) by taxi drivers on the street looking for business. There are plenty of good English speakers so it pays to wait until you find one you like. Do not use taxi drivers as guides, though — see #Touting & Guides below.

A full-day taxi fare should cost around 20-25 JD. An afternoon taxi fare would be around 15 JD. For this price the taxi driver will drop you off at local shopping areas and wait for you to return. You can then go to the next shopping location. You can leave your purchases in the vehicle as the driver will remain in the taxi at all times, but it is not recommended to do so.

If you are planning a trip outside of Amman, the day rates will increase to offset the fuel costs. For day trips within 1–3 hours of Amman, a taxi is by far the easiest method of transport. A trip to Petra in a taxi would cost approximately 75 JD for 3 people. This would get you there and back with about 6 hours to look around and see the sights.

If travelling a long way, try to use buses or coaches rather than taxis. Some taxi drivers are not averse to driving people into the middle of the desert and threatening to leave them there unless they hand over all their money. This is very unlikely if you stick to recommended drivers however. Jordan is generally very protective of its tourists and while overcharging is common (if not agreed in advance), threats and cheating are rare.

You can easily reach major cities by car in Jordan.

Jordan's highways are generally in very good shape, but the same cannot be said about its drivers or its vehicles. Many trucks and buses drive with worn or defective tires and brakes and in the southern and more rural parts of the country there is the tendency for some people to drive at night without headlights (in the belief that they can see better and that this is therefore safer!).

Avoid driving outside the capital, Amman, after dark.

Renting a car should be inexpensive and not too time-consuming. Fuel prices are all fixed by the government, so don't bother looking for cheaper gas stations. Expect to pay around 0.825 JD per litre (unleaded 90 octane), 1 JD per litre (unleaded 95 octane), of 0.625 JD for diesel (Oct 2018). They're reviewed on a monthly basis to reflect international gas prices on the local prices.

The main route is the Desert Highway, which connects Aqaba, Ma'an and Amman and then continues all the way to Damascus in neighbouring Syria. Radar speed traps are plentiful and well positioned to catch drivers who do not heed the frequently changing speed limits. Traffic Police are stationed regularly at turns and curves, well hidden, with speed guns. If you are even 10% over the speed limit, you will be stopped and made to pay a steep fine.

One particular stretch, where the road rapidly descends from the highlands of Amman to the valley that leads into Aqaba through a series of steep hairpin curves, is infamous for the number of badly maintained oil trucks that lose their brakes and careen off the road into the ravine, destroying all in their path. This stretch of the road has been made into a dual carriageway and is now a little safer. However, exercise caution on this stretch of the road.

The other route of interest to travellers is the King's Highway, a meandering track to the west of the Desert Highway that starts south of Amman and links Kerak, Madaba, Wadi Mujib and Petra before joining the Desert Highway south of Ma'an.

Uber is available in Amman.

Considering there are only two airports in the country, there's only one domestic air route: Amman to Aqaba and back.

A flight to Aqaba from Amman will take about 50-55 minutes.

Much of Jordan's more dramatic scenery (Wadi Rum, the Dana Reserve and Iben Hamam) is best seen on 4x4 vehicles with drivers or guides familiar with the territory.

Most people visiting Jordan opt for organised tours, although it is possible to use local guides from the various visitors' centres at Jordan's eco-nature reserves. The majority of tourists crossing into Jordan from Israel are on one-day Petra tours or in organised tour groups. They make up a significant percent of the daily visitors in Petra and Jordan's natural attractions.

The Jordan Hejaz Railway is the only rail line operating passenger services. It is mostly a tourist attraction and not a means of practical transportation. In the 2010s Jordan has made some noise towards building new rail lines and neighboring Israel has built numerous new rail lines in the 1990s, 2000s and 2010s and has announced an intention to cooperate with Jordanian and/or Palestinian partners for cross-border services but as of 2018 nothing concrete has come of this.

North of Amman is the ancient city of Jerash, where you can see some of the most impressive Roman ruins in the Eastern Mediterranean world.

Other sites include Umm Quais, Ajlun Castle and Pella (north-west of Amman). Madaba and its Archaeological Park include some of the finest mosaics in the world.

Parts of the western edge of Jordan's border are the Jordan River, and the Dead Sea to experience floating without the fear of drowning. Close to the Dead Sea is also Bethany (Jesus's baptismal site).

In addition, a visit to Kerak and Dana Nature Reserve are worth while.

Close to Amman the most interesting sights of this region are the Desert Castles around Azraq.

Wadi Rum is an astonishing desert landscape that leaves no one untouched.

The archaeological ruins at Petra are Jordan's biggest tourist draw and a must-see for anyone travelling in Jordan. A vast site, and at least two days are needed to really see the entire area.

Jordan, during World War I, was home to intelligence officers such as T. E. Lawrence, (aka Lawrence of Arabia). Some of its sites from the military expedition can be seen in parts of the country.

• 8-9 days of hitch-hiking and bus: Amman – Jerash – Madaba – Dead Sea – Dana Nature Reserve – Petra – Wadi Rum – Aqaba (including potential stops at Ajlun, Mount Nebo, Dead Sea Panorama complex, and Shoubak Castle). Add one day for each of the following: Desert Castles, Madaba surrounding area, Wadi Mujib, Kerak
• 4-5 days: Aqaba – Petra – Wadi Rum – Aqaba

While not immediately intuitive, Jordan is perfect for hiking. It is one of the best ways to experience the Jordanian culture since one frequently meets nice Bedouins who will try to invite you to a cup of tea.

Great places to hike are Dana Nature Reserve, Wadi Rum, Wadi Mujib, Wadi Bin Hammad (northwest of Kerak), some canyons, other Wadis, along the Dead Sea, and various routes in the North of Jordan. The north is also a popular since it is the greenest part of Jordan.

The North has many oak tree forest reserves (Umm Qais, Ajloun), which provide a stark contrast to the rest of Jordan. Around Amman, urban sprawl has made many hilltops unfit for hiking, but certain valleys, especially towards the west and far south of Amman are nice hiking destinations. Further south, near the Dead sea, numerous unique canyons (such as Wadi Mujib), which often have little streams, are a popular hiking destination with a bit of climbing involved, depending on the Canyon (also known as Wadi). It is strongly advised, though, to not hike in Wadis during raining season, as flash floods can and do occur. Wadi Bin Hammad, is longer Wadi with a fairly "big" stream. The Dana Reserve is less green than the destinations further north, but still has a unique landscape due to its rock structures. There are several RSCN managed Eco accommodations in the reserve and it has a unique flora and fauna. Several hikes with varying lengths are possible here. Around Petra, there exist also numerous hiking trails, which provide a good mix of interesting rock formations, nature, and historical structures. For example, a popular trail is going from Petra to Little Petra (Another Nabataean settlement). Wadi Rum can also be nice to hike due to its unique landscape. Temperatures are high, though, and one always walks on sand.

There is also a 675-km trail running through all of Jordan—from Umm Qais in the North to Aqaba in the South. It is called "The Jordan Trail" with adequate lodging along the route. It runs through many areas mentioned above, such as Wadi Rum.

Climbing is frequently done in Wadi Rum. The rock is relatively soft, though. Around Amman, Climbat is a popular indoor climbing place.

The currency is the Jordanian dinar, locally denoted by the symbol "JD" before or after the amount or in Arabic as دينار, or sometimes "£" (ISO currency code: JOD). It is divided into 1000 fils and 100 piastres (or qirsh). Coins come in denominations of 1 (almost non existent), 5 and piastres and ¼ JD, ½ JD. Banknotes are found in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 20, and 50 JD. The currency rate is effectively fixed to the US dollar at an artificially high rate (about $1.41 ≈ 1.00 JD) that makes Jordan poorer value than it would otherwise be. Most upper scale restaurants and shops at shopping malls also accept US dollars.

Many places have limited change so it is important to keep a quantity of 1 JD and 5 notes JD. As bank machines give 20 JD and 50 JD notes for large transactions, this can be difficult.

Cards are accepted in a limited (and seemingly random) way. Most hotels and hostels take cards including Petra entry fees (50 JD and more) and at camps in Wadi Rum.

ATMs are commonly available, but might charge a fee of up to 7 JD, especially the ATM at the airport right before the visa counter which you have to use to withdraw money to pay for the visa(-on-arrival), except for when you have a Jordan Pass. Try several machines to find one with the lowest or without any fee, and remember the bank. However, in case of Visa, sometimes these additional fees will not get collected back home. Probably mostly only ever if it states more on your receipt than you have received.

A subsistence budget would be around 15 JD per day, but this means you'll be eating falafel every day. 25 JD will allow slightly better accommodations, basic restaurant meals and even the occasional beer. It is best to check accommodation prices online – most Jordan hostels and hotels have their rooms on the common hotel websites.

If you prefer to eat what the locals eat, it should only cost 1-2 JD for which you can buy a falafel/shwerma sandwich with any can of soda pop (most common is Coke, Sprite and Fanta). If you want to buy a chicken sandwich it will cost (0.50-0.80 JD).

To try real Jordanian food and don't stay at starred hotels all the time; eating there is expensive for an average Jordanian. Unless the meal came with the hotel accommodation, don't eat here. It may look like the people inside can afford the meal and make it look and sound like this is an average way to eat. Go into the city or local markets or restaurants and find out what the people there are buying – you will save a lot of money on your trip. If not and you want to save the trip of seeing the country's true people then stay where you are and enjoy whatever the travel guide wants you to see, do and pay.

Non-Jordanians can get a VAT refund at the airport when they are returning home. The VAT amount must be more than 50 JD on anything except for: food, hotel expenses, gold, mobile phones.

Summary (common prices and costs):

• Bus – 1 JD per 40 km; taxi – 1 JD per 5 km; camel, donkey or horse – 12-15 JD/hr
• Falafel roll – 0.5 JD; falafel & hummus – 2-3 JD; beer (in the shop) – 0.5-1 JD
• Hotel room – JOD8-15 JD; dorm – 5 JD; mattress – 1-2 JD
• Wadi Rum camp – 20-30 JD; Dead Sea hotels – 50-60 JD (off-season)
• Dead Sea (tourist) beach – 20 JD; Jordan Pass – 70-80 JD

The average monthly salary for Jordanians is 450 JD, while the official poverty line is 70 JD per month (2018).

See also: Bargaining

Bargaining is accepted, especially at markets, but some prices might already be final, e.g. in restaurants, the bus, or the museum. Since also rich locals will get fair and inexpensive local prices, there is no reason why tourists should pay more, though as a tourist, it might be hard to find out whether the price you got is fair or inflated because you are considered wealthy. It is best to ask at several different locations to get a feeling for what the price should be. Remember to always thank the merchant for stating the price, even if not buying anything.

A working approach for hotels is to look up the price on one of the big hotel reservation sites and to walk straight into the chosen hotel stating that seen price. You might get some discount, if not, just trying the next one might convince the guy at the reception to give you a better price. This however will only work when and where accommodation options are vast, i.e. probably not during high season in Petra or at the Dead Sea.

Tourism is a big income generator. While this must be appreciated and respected in the wake of troublesome times, many tourists are just fast cash cows for tourist guides and taxi drivers who carry them from one overpriced venue, shop, hotel or restaurant to the next one, collecting their share of 30-50% from the owner when leaving. So, do not rely on them too much, otherwise they will cash in on you twice, once for their service and once taking commission. This means, either the restaurant will be a tourist trap with very inflated prices or the hotel will add a surcharge when you ask them for the price, especially if the guide or taxi driver stands right next to you. Instead, choose the restaurant and hotel by yourself without them following you, and just use taxi drivers for transport, not as a guide. Always only rely on the bare minimum of such help, and spend your money arbitrarily and widely, and not just at the hotel you are staying or the place your guide drops you off.

Also, do not believe in the common my cousin (or friend) offers/has got it (something that you are looking for) and I can get it cheaper for you – the opposite will mostly be the truth, neither will it be his cousin nor will it be cheaper. Always get several independent quotes for things or tours you are interested in, and never get convinced that there is only one option available and you have to stick with that one telling you so, even if they say this or that is not available, does not work or is not in this direction, e.g. taxi drivers pretending that there are no buses from the Allenby Bridge into Jordan. The variety of such examples is vast.

Do not buy souvenirs in the tourism centres of the country, like Petra, Jerash or Amman – the prices here are inflated 2- or 3-fold. Madaba or Irbid might be good opportunities to get souvenirs.

Buying and exporting archaeological artefacts might be prohibited, like ancient coins. So, do not get into thinking you can make a good deal here. If you are not an expert, you might even end up buying fake genuine goods – just because they look old and the merchant talks lovely does not make them real.

911 is Jordan’s centralised emergency (police, paramedics, firefighting) line.

Compared to other countries in the Middle East, Jordanian police is well-trained, effective, and professional.

Foreign women may often attract the attention of Jordanian men. For the most part, they are simply curious about you, and hopefully nothing will go further than that.

You should be careful when making direct eye contact with and being overly cheerful in front of Jordanian men as those things could get them to think that you are "interested" in them.

Don't be afraid to create a scene and don't feel the need to be polite if a Jordanian man makes unwanted advances towards you; nobody should tolerate or put up with that kind of behaviour.

Jordan is a Muslim nation, so western norms, such as public displays of affection, may not be accepted even by Jordan's western-educated elite. Jordan is not a place where homosexuality is taken as lightly as in the West, although it is not illegal as is the case in most other Arab nations. Though, the LGBT scene, especially in Amman, prefers the don't ask, don't tell approach to this topic. Adultery, including consensual sex between unmarried couples, is illegal and can be punished by a maximum 3-year jail term. However, this does in general not concern western couples, but will only be a problem when engaging with local people.

Jordanians understand that visitors are usually not aware of Jordanian culture and customs, and will be tolerant of most cultural blunders. However, some blunders will be met with universal disapproval.

• The Jordanian royal family is highly popular and enjoys strong support. They are protected by lese-majesté laws; therefore, it is illegal to publicly criticise, shame, or insult them. This being said, the monarchy has a rather forgiving approach to those convicted of lese-majesté.
• Avoid discussing Israel. Like their counterparts in the Arab world, many Jordanians express feelings of hatred, anger, and bitterness towards Israel. Jordan has a large Palestinian population, many of whom are refugees.

Although Islam is the dominant religion, Jordan is, to a large and significant extent, tolerant of other faiths. You won't offend a Jordanian by discussing religion; it's a popular conversational topic. You should, however, bear the following in mind during your stay:

• During Ramadan, you should avoid smoking, drinking, eating, or chewing in public.
• Try not to discuss religion from an agnostic or atheistic point of view; even highly educated Jordanians may be puzzled by the suggestion that you might not believe in God.
• Religious conversion is highly controversial in Jordan. Jordanian Muslims who have converted to other faiths are ostracised by society.

During Ramadan, and particularly on the Eid al-Fitr holiday, schedules will change. Many restaurants, particularly those outside Amman, are closed during the daylight hours of Ramadan, only opening at sunset. This does not affect major restaurants near tourist destinations, however. Also, during Eid al-Fitr it is impossible to get a servees (minibus) in the late afternoon or evening in many parts of the country. Plan in advance if you are taking a servees to an outlying area; you may need to get a taxi back. However, JETT and Trust International Transport usually add more buses to their schedules during this time period, especially those going from Amman to Aqaba.

Some holidays are based on the Gregorian calendar:

Religious holidays are based on the Islamic calendar, which has 11 days fewer than the Gregorian one. Therefore, they fall on different Gregorian dates every year. The important holidays are:

Jordanians have a notable issue with standing in queues for service. Often those near the rear of a queue will try to sidle forwards and pass those in front of them. Rather than objecting to this tactic, the people being passed will often employ this same trick themselves on those in front of them. The end result is often a raucous crowd jostling for service at the kiosk in question.

No one, including the person manning the kiosk, is happy when this situation develops, and often tensions in the jostling crowd seem high enough that violent disagreements feel moments away. However, there is no violence and the sense is that Jordanians recognise common distinct limits as to what was reasonable jostling.

Nonetheless, due to this common Jordanian phenomenon, several strategies are suggested:

• Arrive early, allow for time, and be patient. Since a degenerate queue is rarely an efficient, allow in your travel plans for the fact that it will invariably take longer than expected to deal with any service booth arrangements, whether that means customs, buying tickets, waiting to get on a bus, etc.
• Don't get upset about the queue or get caught up in the emotions of the crowd. You will keep moving forward, even if a few people sneak in front of you. No one in the crowd is entirely unreasonable, and you will not keep getting pushed back indefinitely. Often, at most, you will end up being served at the kiosk three or four turns later than expected. Just try to relax and take it in stride.
• Avoid the queue entirely when possible. Often, kiosks handle groups in bursts, such as a customs kiosk that deals with a busload of people at a time. In these cases, if you do not start already at the front of the line, find a comfortable spot away from the crowd, and wait for the rest of the group to make their fractious way through before you. Then, make your way up to the kiosk once it's clear. The advantage of being last is that often the kiosk attendant will appreciate your patience and be happy to deal with you now that they do not have a clamoring crowd jostling for their attention.

Most embassies can be found in Amman (see article).

The electricity supply in Jordan is 230 V/50 Hz. But several types of plugs and outlets are in common use, i.e., European with round pins, British standard, Indian and combination outlets that can take multiple types.