Mazar-e Sharif

With a population of more than 485,000 (2020), Mazar-e Sharif is the 4th largest city in Afghanistan. It was founded in the 12th century after a local mullah dreamt of the secret site where Ali bin Talib, the Prophet's cousin and the fourth caliph of Islam, had been buried (outside of Afghanistan most Muslims believe that Ali is buried in Najaf, Iraq). A shrine, which was rebuilt as the Blue Mosque, was constructed on the site and the city of Mazar grew around it.

Historically this region was known as Bactria, its capital was Balkh and Mazar was a smaller town nearby. However Balkh was abandoned due to disease in the mid-19th century and Mazar assumed the role of capital of the region, a position it has maintained ever since. Being at a crossroads of trade, the Mazar region is more ethnically diverse than other areas of Afghanistan, and after Kabul it is considered the most open and liberal of all Afghan cities.

• Taxis are plentiful and should cost 30 Afg or less around town. Negotiate a price before setting off.

In the way of sights Mazar has little to offer the visitor other than the Blue Mosque - although some of the modern monuments built atop traffic circles are worth a photo. Mazar is surrounded by beautiful Mountains on two sides and is home to some Ancient Greek relics.

• 🌍 Shrine of Hazrat Ali. Also known as the Blue Mosque, the shrine marks the burial site of Ali bin Talib, the Prophet Mohammad's cousin and the fourth caliph of Islam. At night the mosque is lit by coloured lights. However, due to many homeless sleeping in the surrounding park, it is not advisable to walk around it. 
• 🌍 Qala-i-Jangi. A fortress 30 minutes from Mazar-e Sharif that became infamous during the American-backed defeat of the Taliban by the Northern Alliance, when video footage of US and UK soldiers appeared on television sets around the world, firing into the rebelling Taliban prisoners and an American Taliban was taken prisoner - one of the few survivors. The uprising started with the death of an American CIA Agent. There is a plaque commemorating his death but nothing about the hundreds of Afghans that were killed in the hours afterwards. After the fall of Mazar-e Sharif to Warlord General Dostum and western advisors, truckloads of Taliban prisoners were herded into the fortress. The fortress is divided into two sections. The walls slope inwards from the outside and vertical from the inside, probably a strong reason why the Taliban were not able to scale the walls and escape after capturing weapons, and why the Afghan and western soldiers were able to trap them in their area by sealing the one exit/entry point and controlling the walls. To get in you will need to find a local to fast talk the guards. There is no entrance fee as the fortress is not a tourist attraction (entrance fees are rare in Afghanistan anyway). Walking the interior (if you get in) and perimeter is easy. There are fields near the main road giving some space between it and the fortress so photography is best from that side if you want to get wide-angle shots. The fortress is used by the new Afghan military and they are not too keen on having ordinary tourists turning up for a look around, although if you arrive with a local they can talk you in and the guards do warm up (and want photos sent back to them). UN and other NGO tourists have less hassle wanting to look around. A few rusting anti-air machine guns are next to the gate that divides the fortress's two areas. (updated Oct 2020)
• Takht-e Rustam (just off the Balkh road, between Mazar and Pol e Khomri). A 5th-century Buddhist stupa and Buddhist cave complex. Unlike most stupas, Takht-e Rustam is not built atop the ground, but dug out from the bedrock. (updated Jul 2021)

• The mosque is open for daily prayers.

Hand-woven carpets are common in the bazaar, both Turkoman rugs and Afghan rugs that are typically cheaper and coarser.

• Between the Farhat Hotel and the Blue Mosque there are food stalls on both sides of the road. Bagels with green vegetables, tomato and french fries are especially good. Fruit shakes, soft drinks and tea are also available. Stalls close around sun set.
• Kefyat Hotel. Has a large restaurant serving tasty meals 
• Delhi Darbar (about 1 km north of the shrine, on a side street opposite the military hospital). Serves good Indian food, and alcohol is available to non-Afghans. It's known locally as the 'Indian hotel'. 
• 🌍 Ibn Sina Restaurant, Darvaza-ye Balkh. Afghan cuisine - kebab, manti, plov. (updated Feb 2016)

Aside from the inherent risks faced by coming to Afghanistan in such a time of turmoil, Mazar remains relatively peaceful and safe for travelers. Things can change very quickly: avoid walking at night if possible, always remain friendly and upbeat, and keep aware of your surroundings. Treat police with kindness and smiles even if they aren't showing you the same respect - unfriendly passport checks are not unheard of.

Balkh is nearby and has interesting sights. It was the capital of Bactria from several hundred BCE, and the region's most important city until it was devastated by an epidemic in the 19th century and Mazar became the leading city.