Afghanistan

Temperatures in the central highlands are below freezing for most of the winter, and snow is common at higher elevations. Summertime highs in lower elevations (such as Jalalabad or Mazar-e Sharif) can exceed 50°C/120°F. In higher areas such as Kabul, summer temperatures can be 30°C/90°F and winter around 0°C/30°F. The most pleasant weather in Kabul is during April, May and September.

Mostly rugged mountains; plains in north and southwest. The Hindu Kush mountains run northeast to southwest, dividing the northern provinces from the rest of the country, with the highest peaks found in the northern Wakhan Corridor. South of Kandahar is desert.

The lowest point is Amu Darya at 258 m, and the highest is Nowshak at 7,485 m.

Afghanistan is bordered by Pakistan to the south and east, Iran to the west, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan and Tajikistan to the north. There is a short border with China to the far northeast, but in extremely inaccessible terrain.

Afghanistan is an ethnically diverse country. Tribal and local allegiances are strong, which complicates national politics immensely. The largest ethnic group is the Pashtuns, followed by Tajiks, Hazaras, Uzbeks and others.

Baloch tribesmen, still largely nomadic, can be found anywhere between Quetta in Pakistan and Mashad in Iran, including much of western Afghanistan. They make marvellous rugs, if somewhat simple.

Hazaras in the central mountains look much more similar to East Asians than other Afghans do. According to some theories, they are descended from Genghis Khan's Mongol soldiers.

The two largest linguistic groups speak Pashto and Dari (Afghan Persian). Pashto speakers predominate in the south and east, Dari in the north, west and central Afghanistan. About 11% of the population have Turkic languages such as Uzbek or Turkmen as their first language. Many of them live in the north, near the borders with Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan. Minor native language groups include Nuristanis, Pashais and Pamiris, found in small pockets in the east and northeast.

There are also thousands of Hindus and Sikhs living in different cities, but mostly in Kabul, Jalalabad, and Kandahar.

Afghanistan borders Persia, Central Asia and South Asia, and various Silk Road routes cross it to connect those regions. It has been described as "the crossroads of Asia" and has history of trade going back to before 2000 BCE.

The country has a long history of conflict – raiding and banditry, battles between tribes, and resistance against invaders including several Persian Empires, Alexander the Great, the Arabs during the great expansion of Islam (starting with their capture of Herat in 652 CE and spread over several centuries), the Mongol Empire in the 13th century, and the British Empire in the 19th. Its recent history is no exception: the Soviet Union invaded late in the 20th century and a U.S.-led coalition invaded early in the 21st.

The Afghans have given all invaders trouble; the country has been so difficult to conquer that it is known as the Graveyard of Empires.

The modern-day country was founded by secession from the Persian Empire in 1709. Since then, there have been several dynasties and at times the Afghans ruled what are now Iran, Iraq, most of Pakistan and parts of India. Mohammed Zahir Shah was the last king, ruling from 1933 until 1973, when the constitutional monarchy was overthrown in a coup and the country became a republic.

In the late 19th century, Afghanistan became a buffer state in the "Great Game" between the British Empire and the Russian Empire. After the Second Anglo-Afghan War Britain gained control of Afghanistan's foreign relations as part of the Treaty of Gandamak of 1879. In 1893, the ethnic Pashtun and Baloch territories were divided between Britain and Afghanistan by the Durand Line, which forms the modern-day border between Pakistan and Afghanistan. Afghanistan became fully independent from the British in 1919.

In the 1960s and early 70s, Afghanistan was a popular destination for adventurous travellers, part of the "Hippie Trail" Istanbul to New Delhi overland route. Dirt cheap, culturally fascinating and with plenty of excellent hashish; what more could a hippie want? However, it has not been anywhere close to safe since the Russian invasion of 1979.

A coup in 1978 brought a socialist regime to power, but they were by no means universally accepted; some of both their officials and their Soviet advisers were killed. The Soviet Union invaded in December 1979 to support the regime and a long messy war ensued, with the Soviet and their Afghan government allies on one side and several groups known as the Mujahedeen on the other. The Mujahedeen were armed and funded mainly by the United States, Saudi Arabia, other Gulf Arabs, Iran and China, and many were trained in Pakistan. By February 1989, all Soviet forces withdrew from the country, and the Soviet Union collapsed two years later in 1991.

After the Russians left, the country was somewhat chaotic, apparently reverting to its tribal past with no effective central government and various Mujahedeen leaders ruling separate fiefs and sometimes fighting each other. Taliban (lit. students) — made up primarily of ethnic Pashtuns and inspired by the fundamentalist Deobandi interpretation of Sunni Islam — emerged as a political force in the early 90s, heavily backed by (some would say created by) Pakistani Intelligence and largely funded by the CIA, to end "warlordism" and bring security to the country. They seized Kabul in late 1996 and controlled most of the country by 2000, aside from some areas in the northeast.

Al-Qaeda (translated, the base) began in 1988 as a group of mostly Arab volunteers aiding the Mujahedeen; like Taliban they were supported in the 90s by Pakistan and the US, but they also got considerable Arab support. By 2000 they were led by Saudi Arabian Osama bin Laden, and guided by the very strict Wahhabi interpretation of Sunni Islam.

Al-Qaeda would later orchestrate the September 11, 2001 terrorist attacks in the United States. The US government demanded that the Taliban hand over Osama bin Laden and other Al-Qaeda militants for trial in a US court. Taliban refused, though they did offer to try Osama in their own shariah court if the US government shared "solid evidence" of his alleged guilt with them, and also expressed willingness in principle to consider extraditing Osama to a third country for a trial before a shariah court there. The US refused to share whatever evidence they had with the Taliban and considered the Taliban's offers insufficient, so they and their allies chose to take military action with support from anti-Taliban Afghans — mainly Tajik, Uzbek and Turkmen warlords from the north of the country who fought in the Northern Alliance — causing the Taliban regime to fall in December 2001.

The same month, representatives from all ethnic groups of Afghanistan met in Germany and agreed to form a new government with Hamid Karzai as Chairman of the Afghan Interim Authority. Following a nationwide election in 2004, Hamid Karzai was elected as President of the Islamic Republic of Afghanistan. A year later, in 2005, legislative elections were held and the country's parliament began functioning again. In addition to occasionally violent political jockeying and ongoing military action to root out anti-government elements, the country sufferred from widespread election fraud, poverty, corruption, and opium cultivation.

In 2021, U.S.A. and other NATO countries withdrew their troops, and the Taliban seized control of most of the country. The U.S.-backed Afghan government swiftly collapsed, and the Taliban formed a new government. Though active fighting between different armed forces appears to have greatly decreased since then, terrorism, such as from the Islamic State organization, is still a problem. A more pressing issue is shortages of food and other goods due to drought and sanctions that were imposed due to the overall human rights situation and especially the draconian restrictions the Taliban imposed on women, who are now not permitted to go to university and allowed to hold jobs in very few professions.

Officially 220 V 50 Hz. Electricity supplies are erratic, but slowly improving in major cities. Voltage can drop to below 150 V in some places. The Afghans' enthusiasm for homemade generators or modifying low quality ones means that the frequency and voltage can also vary wildly.

There are three types of electrical outlets likely to be found in Afghanistan. They are the old British standard BS-546 and the newer British standard BS 1363. But the European standard CEE-7/7 "Schukostecker" or "Schuko" is the standard and the most common. Generally speaking, Canadian and Americans should pack adapters for these outlets if they plan to use North American electrical equipment in Afghanistan. You may also find cheap universal adapters in the local markets, but make sure you have an understanding of electrical systems and the nature of adapters.

Afghanistan, for thousands of years, has been a crossroads of many civilisations, in experience of empires and influx of cultures, earning it its dubious distinction as the "roundabout of the ancient world". It maintains its Persian influence and preserves a heritage and traditions of the country's multiple tribal groups.

• Afghan Scene Magazine
• A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush by Eric Newby – a hilarious account of pioneer trekking in Nuristan in the 1950s
• The Places in Between by Rory Stewart – a fascinating post 9/11 travelogue of Stewart's walk from Herat to Kabul just after the fall of the Taliban.
• The Kite Runner by Khalid Hosseini – a beautiful and heartbreaking tale of childhood in Afghanistan
• Good Morning Afghanistan by Waseem Mahmood - a true account of the setting up of the first public radio station in Kabul after the Taliban fell.
• An Unexpected Light: Travels in Afghanistan by Jason Elliot—a travelogue from the period between the expulsion of the Soviets and the ascension of the Taliban. He went everywhere.
• For a Pagan Song by Jonny Bealby - a brilliant account of the author's journey to retrace the footsteps of Rudyard Kipling's heroes in The Man Who Would Be King to discover the land of Kafiristan (now Nuristan) and the people who inhabit the region.
• Flashman - a hilarious historical novel recounting the disastrous 1842 retreat from Kabul during the First Anglo-Afghan War

Most visitors need to apply for a visa in advance. There does not seem to be any uniform visa policy since the Taliban takeover (the Afghanistan Foreign Ministry's website's visa page link was dysfunctional as of August 2023), but visas are indeed issued at a few embassies. It may be possible to get exceptions to some of the requirements. Tourist visas are one-month single-entry for all countries. For most travels to Afghanistan you need to explain the nature of your tour and places you intend to visit.

Kabul International Airport (KBL ^IATA) in Kabul is the main entry point to the country. As of 2024, the airlines based in out of Kabul include flag carrier Ariana Afghan Airlines and the privately-run Kam Air. Neither the airlines nor the airport are up to international safety standards.

There are a number of roads into Afghanistan:

• From Peshawar, Pakistan, via the Khyber Pass to Jalalabad, in the east. See above for details.
• From Quetta, Pakistan, to Kandahar, in the south. This crossing is closed to third-country nationals.
• From Mashad, Iran to Herat, in the west. This border is open to foreigners.
• From Termez, Uzbekistan to Mazar-e Sharif, in the north. This border is open to third-country nationals.
• From Tajikistan to Kunduz, in the northwest. The security situation at this border was not considered conducive to passage as of 2019.

As of mid-2023, none of these routes were considered safe.

Buses run regularly between Jalalabad and Peshawar, Pakistan. Also, between Herat and Mashad, Iran. Afghani buses are thoroughly checked by Iranian border police for possible drugs, so expect delays.

Afghanistan has never had a national railway network and while there are a few spur lines from neighboring countries, most notably to Mazar-e Sharif, there were no passenger trains as of 2020. However there are several border towns with passenger trains, from where it's possible to continue into Afghanistan on foot or by taxi.

Across the border from Northwest Afghanistan, the city of Termez in Uzbekistan sees trains from both Moscow and Tashkent. From Pakistan, it's possible to take a train from Quetta to the border town of Chaman and continue into South Afghanistan.

Flag carrier Ariana Afghan Airlines and Kam Air both operate flights between Kabul and Kandahar.

As of 2007, there was a network of public transportation between the country's cities. Buses plied some routes and Toyota vehicles had a near monopoly on minivan (HiAce) and taxi (Corolla) transportation.

A highway connects Kabul and Mazar-i-Sharif. The highway goes through the Salang Pass and across the Hindu Kush mountain range. Another highway links Kabul to Kandahar.

There were no metered taxis in large parts of Afghanistan. As of 2011, taxis were yellow and clearly identifiable. You were expected to strike a deal with the driver before entering the cab.

Jeeps and Land Cruisers were available for hire, as of 2011, along with drivers who spoke some English. There were tour operators in Kabul that could have provided a car and guide; these people were available for hire at Kabul International Airport. Petrol stations were scarce in the countryside, and fuel was expensive.

Paved roads are the exception, not the rule, and even those roads can be in poor repair. Once outside the major cities expect dirt roads (which turn to mud during rain or snow melt).

The Afghani (AFN) is the currency of Afghanistan, denoted by the symbol "Afs" or "؋" (ISO code: AFN). The current version of the afghani was introduced in 2002, with 1 afghani equal to 1,000 of the previous afghanis.

Banknotes of Afghanistan are issued in denominations of 1-, 2,-, 5-, 10-, 20-, 50-, 100-, 500 and 1,000 afghanis.

Afghanistan's most famous products are carpets and there are some fine deals to be had, though good haggling is absolutely required to get them.

There are carpets described as "Afghan", but also at least two other carpet-weaving traditions. The Baluchi tribes in the south and west weave fine rugs, and the Turkoman tribes in the north do as well; both groups are also found in neighbouring countries.

• Afghan rugs are generally made in city workshops, mainly for the export trade. They are often large; 3 x 4 metres (10 x 12 feet) is common. Most are quite coarsely woven to keep costs down, but others have a fairly fine weave. If you need a big rug for the living room at a moderate price, these are likely to be your best choice. Beware, however, that a large thick (because coarsely woven) carpet may be expensive to transport because it will be quite heavy.
• Baluchi rugs are usually small since nomadic people cannot use large looms; sizes up to 1.5 by 2 metres (4 x 7 feet) are common, but not many beyond that. They are popular with travellers, partly because they are fairly portable. One very common type is a prayer rug, just large enough for one person to kneel facing Mecca. Another is the "nomad's chest of drawers" — a bag, often beautifully decorated, that is a saddlebag when travelling and hangs on the wall of the tent when camped.
• Turkoman rugs, often labelled "Bokhara" in the Western rug trade, come in all sizes and a very broad range of quality. Some are woven by nomads, with the same range of sizes and types as Baluchi rugs. Others are made in city workshops; the best of these are almost as finely woven and almost as expensive as top-grade Persian carpets. One fairly common design is the Hatchli, a cross shape on a large rug.

All three types tend to use geometric patterns in the design, usually with red as the background colour and with repeated elements called "guls" to make the pattern. Generally, these are not as finely woven as carpets from the cities of neighbouring Iran. However, many of them are quite beautiful and their prices are (assuming good haggling) well below those of the top Iranian carpets.

It is fairly common for rugs woven by nomads — such as many Baluchi rugs and some Turkoman — to show minor irregularities. The loom is dismantled for transport and re-assembled at the new camp, so the rug may not turn out perfectly rectangular. Vegetable dyes are often used, and these may vary from batch to batch, so some colour variation (arbrash) occurs and this may be accentuated as the rug fades. To collectors, most such irregularities fall into the "that's not a flaw; it's a feature" category; they are expected and accepted. In fact, a nice arbrash can considerably increase the value of a rug.

Turkoman designs are widely copied; it is common to see "Bokhara" carpets from India or Pakistan, China produces some, and the Afghan carpet designs show heavy Turkoman influence. To collectors, though, the original Turkoman rugs are worth a good deal more. Good Baluchi rugs are also quite valuable in Western countries. Afghan rugs, or lower grade Baluchi and Turkoman rugs, generally are not collectors' items; most foreigners will find the best buys among these. Experts might pay premium prices for the top-grade rugs, but amateurs trying that are very likely to get severely overcharged.

Kilims are flat-woven fabric with no pile. These are nowhere near as tough as carpets and will not survive decades on the floor as a good carpet will. However, some are lovely, and they are generally cheaper than carpets. Smaller items, such as purses, made or decorated with carpet and kilims are common.

Another common product and popular souvenir is the Afghan sheepskin coat. These have the wool on the inside for warmth and the leather on the outside to block wind, rain and snow. They often have lovely embroidery. Two cautions, though.

• The makers use the embroidery to hide flaws in the leather; top-quality coats will have little or no embroidery.
• Australian customs have been known to incinerate these coats on arrival, to protect their large sheep population from diseases (notably anthrax) that poorly tanned Afghan products might carry. They might not be the only country that will do this.

Guns are very common in Afghanistan and some may be of considerable interest to historians and collectors.

• Jezail. These are long-barrelled muzzle loaders, often with brass or ivory inlay work on the wooden parts. They were widely used until the Russian invasion of 1979 when many of their owners acquired AK-47s, often by shooting a Russian. 
• Pass rifle. Guns are manufactured in the Khyber Pass, mostly by hand and mainly in Landi Khotal. These are copies of foreign guns, most commonly British military weapons such as the 19th century Martini-Henry single-shot lever action rifle or 20th century Lee Enfield bolt action repeater. Many take different ammo than the original; for example guns with the Martini-Henry design are often chambered for 7.62 NATO. Pistols such as the Colt 1911 are also copied.
  One of these might look fine hanging on a wall, but in most cases firing it would be extremely unwise. The steel is mostly salvaged from whatever comes to hand, often things like leaf springs or engine blocks of scrapped trucks, so it is much inferior to the high-grade steel that gun makers elsewhere use. Ammunition is also made in the pass, often with less powerful explosive than the original. Most of these guns can handle pass ammunition, but some would be likely to explode if used with other ammo. 

Before the Russian invasion of 1979, most Afghan men carried rifles, but jezails were much the commonest type and pass rifles second; owning a repeating rifle was a major status symbol. Today most Afghans have automatic weapons — mainly Russian AK-47 or American M16 — so the older guns are readily available for any traveller who wants one.

Guns make rather problematic souvenirs. Importing a firearm anywhere can be difficult and it may be impossible in some places. If you are travelling overland and passing through several countries before you reach home, it is almost certainly not worth the trouble. Also, if you actually fire any Afghan gun, there is a risk that it will blow up in your face.

There are also various bits of metalwork – heavily decorated pots, vases and platters, and some quite nice knives.

If invited to an Afghan home, expect to be offered the best of everything there is. You will often be showered with tea, sweets, snacks, and gifts when entering someone's home. Don't refuse any of these as it can leave a bad impression on your hosts. You'll often be encouraged by your hosts to take second helpings ad infinitum. If so, take it as a form of respect as it may leave a good impression on your hosts. Cleaning your plate will invite more to be served, while leaving too much may be a sign you didn't care for it. Aim for leaving just a little, announcing you're full, and heavily praising the food.

Honor and shame, otherwise known as "saving face" in other countries, are very important in Afghan culture. No matter how genuine your intentions may be, avoid criticising people in the open and do not make someone feel uncomfortable with your questioning. Be mindful that your actions will be reflected on your counterparts (e.g. Business partners, family members); doing anything perceived as "shameful" by Afghans will cause others to view them in a negative way. Be mindful of this and behave accordingly.

While the majority of women across Afghanistan still wear the burqa or chadori, in cities like Kabul and Herat many opt for the Middle Eastern-style hijab. Western women are highly encouraged to wear any type of head scarf (especially outside Kabul). As a general rule, the people get more conservative as you move further south.

The pace of life in Afghanistan is quite slow. Building relationships and getting things done require you to demonstrate sincere interest as Afghans try to do things in a measured, careful manner. Losing your temper is seen as disrespectful, and it can quickly make people feel uncomfortable.

As in any other Islamic country, people place a high value on personal privacy. Although Afghanistan may have wonderful photo opportunities, do not photograph or record people without their permission, especially women. Also, taking photographs of anything of strategic importance may be met with suspicion.

Be sensitive to the country's current situation. Many Afghans have endured a lot due to years of conflict and warfare. Offer sympathy and respect when the opportunity arises.

• Remember to remove your shoes when entering a religious building.
• Dress modestly and appropriately; not doing so is considered disrespectful.
• If at all possible, try not to schedule meetings during Ramadan. The workday is shortened, and since Muslims fast, they will not be able to offer you tea, which is a sign of hospitality. Meetings are also not scheduled during prayers. Also refer to travelling during Ramadan.
• Mosques are sometimes off-limits to non-Muslims so it is always better to inquire with someone before entering.

• Do not discuss the Taliban — Some support them and others may not dare to criticize them. Any such discussion will put the local in a very awkward situation.
• Be careful when discussing Pakistan — The two countries have had a very hostile relationship, while people from the neighboring regions may have strong ties across the border.
• Be careful when discussing the foreign efforts during the former regime — Many Afghans feel that the US military did more harm than good, or betrayed Afghanistan by withdrawing. Any such discussions may also risk being interpreted as criticizing the Taliban regime, see above.

• Family — Many Afghan people have either been separated from their families, have lost family members to conflict, or fear that they might be put into danger if they're spoken about. As a general rule, don't discuss someone's family unless you know the person well.
• Religion — Afghanistan has some very harsh blasphemy laws. You can very easily elicit strong responses by speaking negatively about religion, especially from an agnostic point of view. Also, don't assume that every Afghan is a hard-line Muslim; secular viewpoints are common. On the other hand, hijabs or burqas are traditional clothing in some regions. Someone's preferred style of dress might not reflect their private views.

Mobile numbers in Afghanistan must always be dialled with all digits (10 digits, including a "0" prefixing the "70n" within Afghanistan), no matter where they are being called from. The 70n is a mobile prefix, not an "area code", as such and the third digit (the n part) denotes the original mobile network assigned. An example mobile number looks like +93 700-202-496.

• Roshan +93 79 997 1333. The most reliable service with the widest coverage. SMS is possible to most countries. SIM cards cost USD5, local calls are Af 5/minute.
• Afghan Wireless Privately owned with 20% ownership by the government. AWCC has the only communications ring around the country offering high speed mobile and data services throughout all provinces. AWCC also offers the highest speed fibre-based connections to the outside world, with roaming to over 300 other operators in 120 countries. Services include Voice, FAX, GPRS and EDGE data services along with WiMAX and dedicated high speed internet service with 45MB links to NYC and 45MB links to Paris. SIM cards cost USD1, local calls are Af 4.99/minute billing in seconds.
• Areeba/MTN +93 77 222 2777. The cheapest cell service, offers the least coverage. SIM cards cost USD3, local calls are Af 5.5/minute.
• Etisalat +93 78 688 8888. A large network provider from the UAE, is the latest GSM network in Afghanistan. It became the first company to begin 3G services in early 2012.

• Thuraya is the most reliable satellite phone system.