Mersey Ferry

A ferry has crossed the Mersey between Liverpool and Birkenhead since 1150, though the original eastern end of the route was in "the Pool", now Salthouse Dock. In this era, it was the only way for most people to cross the river without undertaking a detour by road via Warrington, which at the time would have added days to any journey. From its inception until the English Reformation (mid-16th century), the ferry service was provided by Benedictine monks of Birkenhead priory, who used to row passengers across the much wider river for a small fare. The ferry was taken over by private enterprise in 1544, and small sailing ships replaced the rowing boats.

By the 18th century, as England began to industrialise and Liverpool grew, these ships were becoming an inadequate means of assuring a regular ferry service for an increased demand; sailing ships need wind to work, and the Mersey is notorious for its thick, still winter fogs that can last for days. So, almost as soon as the technology was available (c. 1815), paddle steamers were brought in. The 19th century saw numerous steamship companies competing for dominance along various routes between the Merseyside boomtowns, that is until local governments took over their running in the 1850s and 1860s. This time of innovation also gave rise to new ways of crossing the river: a railway bridge opened between Widnes and Runcorn in 1868, and in 1886 a rail tunnel was dug from Liverpool to Birkenhead, meaning the ferries had quicker (and dryer!) competition. However, the ferries remained popular with cargo and commuters through the replacement of paddle steamers with propeller-driven diesel boats, until the opening of the Queensway road tunnel in 1934; almost overnight, the Seacombe ferry lost two million passengers, and demand for cargo vanished altogether.

Mersey Ferry ships contributed to both World Wars: in 1918, two steamers were used as troop ships and saw action at Zeebrugge, which earned the company the right to use the moniker Royal- in its ship names, while in 1941 the ferries helped to unload American aircraft from transatlantic ships at anchor mid-river to Liverpool. But neither of these honours were to save the service from declining in popularity still further postwar. A second road tunnel (Kingsway) opening in 1971 and the completion of the underground Merseyrail city centre loop in 1977 were the final nails in the coffin for the Mersey Ferry as a commuter service, and since the 1980s the remaining two boats have pivoted towards tourism. This pivot has proved successful, as Merseyside itself has reversed its own seemingly terminal decline of the late 20th century, to become one of the most visited urban areas in the UK, and thanks to a certain famous song - and Liverpool's amazing skyline - the ferry is now pretty much a must-do for any visitor.

The Mersey Ferry is operated by Merseytravel, the local transport authority which also runs Merseyrail, and owns and tolls the road tunnels. In 2020, two vessels - MV Royal Iris of the Mersey (i.e. the trad black and white one) and MV Snowdrop (i.e. the Sgt. Pepper "dazzle" one) - ply the Mersey, and a further two locally-built low-carbon ferries are set to join the fleet this decade. A commuter service runs every 20 minutes Monday-Friday between Liverpool Pier Head and Seacombe, while the popular 50-minute river cruise also takes in Birkenhead Woodside and runs eight days a week. Fares are £2.80 for an adult single (£3.60 return), and £1.40 for a child single (£1.80 return). Other themed cruises - nighttime, birdwatching, Manchester Ship Canal, Liverpool Bay - operate at various times and charge special fares.

• 🌍 U boat story, Woodside Ferry Terminal, Wirral, ☏ +44 151 330 1003. 10AM-6:30PM. featuring U-534 in cross sections and small exhibition. Admittance included in River Explorer Cruise. (updated Sep 2019)
• Wirral Tramway, Woodside, ☏ +44 151 647 2128. Weekends and Bank Holiday Mondays 1–4:30PM. half hourly return service between Woodside Ferry Terminal and Wirral Transport Museum £2 adults £1.50 children. (updated Sep 2019)
• Wirral Transport Museum, 1 Taylor St, Birkenhead, CH41 1BG , ☏ +44 151 647 2128. Weekends and Bank Holiday Mondays 1–4:30PM. includes tea room and toilets (updated Sep 2019)
• Resurgam replica, Woodside Ferry Terminal (Woodside near Hamilton Square, Birkenhead). 24 hr. Victorian wooden submarine replica. (updated Sep 2019)

• The Beatles Story and Fab 4d cinema (Pier Head Ferry Terminal, Liverpool), ☏ +44 151 709 1963. One attraction ticket can cover both of these and the main Beatles Story in the Albert Dock. (updated Sep 2019)
• British Music Experience, Cunard building, Pier Head, Liverpool, ☏ +44 151 519 0915. 10AM-6PM. (updated Sep 2019)