New Mexico

Archaeological evidence has shown that humans have existed in New Mexico for at least 13,000 years now, as shown by the existence of "Clovis points" - arrowheads first found near the town of Clovis. For the next several millennium, a long line of Native American cultures lived, prospered, and perished here, the most well-known being the Ancestral Puebloans (also known as the "Anasazi", though that term has fallen out of favor) who emerged around AD 700 and by AD 1100 has established impressive settlements in what is now the northwestern region of the state and were part of a far-flung trade network that reached south to what is now Mexico. However, in the 12th and 13th centuries they abandoned their settlements for reasons not entirely clear; drought, environmental degradation, pressure from other groups, and religious or cultural change are all considered possibilities. It is commonly believed today that the inhabitants of today's Pueblos of New Mexico are the descendants of the Ancestral Puebloans. Of course, Puebloans were not the only Native American group to establish themselves here; despite changing climates, war, and European and later American aggression, many Navajos, Apaches, Comanches, and Utes also make the state their home today.

The first Europeans to arrive in New Mexico were the Spanish. The explorer Cabeza de Vaca may have passed through a portion of the area, but it was the expedition of Francisco Vázquez de Coronado in the 1540s that marked the first significant European contact in the area. Coronado came seeking the mythical Seven Cities of Gold, but found nothing of the sort. His contact with the Puebloan residents in New Mexico was marked by violence against the Natives, which sadly set the stage for more bloodshed to come. Though Coronado returned to Mexico in disgrace, his reports paved the way for the first settlers to arrive in 1598, who were led by Juan de Oñate and established the first European village in the area near present-day Española. Oñate displayed vicious cruelty toward the Puebloans, and after being chewed out by the Spanish Empire a new governor was appointed who led the construction of a capital city, Santa Fe.

Over the next several decades, the Puebloans continued to be the victims of repression on the part of the Spanish, particularly Franciscan missionaries who found that while many Puebloans were receptive to Catholicism, they were also unwilling to abandon their traditional religions. Tension grew until finally the Pueblos banded together in 1680 to drive the Spanish out of New Mexico. It wouldn't be for another 12 years that Europeans returned, this time through a reconquest led by Diego de Vargas. Though there were some military campaigns involved, the Pueblo Revolt had taught the Spanish the consequences of oppression and the Puebloans were granted rights and land in exchange for allowing the Spanish to live side-by-side with them. This partnership largely worked; indeed, Spaniards and Puebloans frequently banded together to wage war against the nomadic tribes (Apaches, Comanches, Navajos) in the area.

Mexico gained independence from Spain in 1821, but New Mexico's isolation meant that little changed in the relationship between the settlers and rulers, with the exception that Mexico was more willing to trade with the United States. This set the stage for the creation of the Santa Fe Trail - a rugged wagon route that brought American goods and settlers to New Mexico, as well as opening the floodgates to encroachment from the east. An attempt on the part of the then-independent Republic of Texas to gain control of New Mexico ended in humiliating defeat, but within several years Texas was part of the U.S. and the vision of an America "stretching from sea to shining sea" brought New Mexico into the Mexican-American War. Mexican officials didn't focus much on defending New Mexico - American General Stephen W. Kearny marched into Santa Fe without firing a shot - but the residents reacted to U.S. presence with a mixture of welcome and deep suspicion; New Mexico's early years as a U.S. territory were marked by rebellion and bitter land disputes.

Under American rule, New Mexico experienced combat in the American Civil War. Most of New Mexico remained loyal to the Union, and Confederate forces mounted a campaign to stake their claim here. Their presence was short-lived however, as Union forces soon drove them back south after winning a couple of key battles near Santa Fe. The Civil War over, the Union returned to focus on breaking the Comanche, Navajo, and Apache forces in the area, with considerable success.

The arrival of the railroad in 1880 brought numerous new settlers to the area and caused an explosion of growth in towns along the rail lines. Ranching and mining came to New Mexico in full force, becoming the mainstay of the economy. Following statehood in 1912, a new set of visitors came to New Mexico as the state shed its wild west image: artists established themselves in the Santa Fe and Taos areas, tourists came via the railroad to experience the scenery and culture of the Southwest, and tuberculosis patients came to live the rest of their lives in New Mexico's mild climate. With the rise of the automobile came the arrival of Route 66, bringing a new wave of arrivals to the state.

World War II brought a new industry to New Mexico: nuclear science. The world's first atomic bomb was constructed in the top secret government town of Los Alamos and tested at the Trinity site in southern New Mexico. Federal investment in military research brought money and new migrants to the state, which coincided with considerable urban growth in parts of the state, particularly the Albuquerque area. The 1960s and 70s manifested itself in civil rights battles for Latinos and the arrival of a large number of Hippies in the northern part of the state who were attracted by New Mexico's relative isolation.

The last couple of decades have seen a modernization effort in New Mexico. The metro areas of Albuquerque, Santa Fe, and Las Cruces are still experiencing major urban growth, and the typical features of today's built American landscape - cell phone towers, gas stations, Wal-Marts - have certainly arrived, along with the problems - traffic, pollution, etc. However, New Mexico remains a place isolated enough from the rest of the country that one can still venture out of the city and find great, wild beauty, and still catch a glimpse of what New Mexico was like hundreds of years ago.

New Mexico seems to suffer from the paradox of having a lot of artists, writers, filmmakers, and other purveyors of culture, yet rarely is actually named in cultural works, instead standing in as a generic "Southwestern" place. The areas around Santa Fe and Taos have long been home to artist colonies who find inspiration in the beauty of the state's natural scenery, while many, many films and television shows have been filmed at least in part here (given state tax credits for the film industry), using New Mexico as a stand-in for desert or Western scenes. It's not hard to find New Mexico in popular works, but it can be difficult to find ones that take full advantage of both the unique beauty and the culture of the state.

• Of the many artists who came to northern New Mexico in the early 20th century, the painter Georgia O'Keeffe is perhaps the most famous. O'Keeffe eventually settled in Abiquiu and used the local scenery to extensive effect in her later works (today, a museum devoted exclusively to her work sits in Santa Fe). Other notables who came to New Mexico around the same time are the writer D.H. Lawrence, whose ranch near Taos now holds his ashes, and famed photographer Ansel Adams, who regularly used New Mexico as a subject in his work.
• Ceremony (Leslie Marmon Silko, 1977). Considered among the greatest works of Native American literature, Ceremony tracks a half-Native man whose efforts to restore spiritual balance to his land mirror his own fight against PTSD from fighting in World War II. Silko wrote the book while living in cold, rainy Alaska and filled it with loving depictions of her home in Laguna Pueblo.
• Bless Me, Ultima (Rudolfo Anaya, 1972). A classic work of Chicano literature, Bless Me, Ultima is a coming-of-age story of a young boy from eastern New Mexico who must reconcile his European-derived, Catholic, Latino heritage with the spiritual indigenous culture, deeply rooted in the land, that still survives despite centuries of upheaval and violence.
• The Atomic City (Jerry Hopper, 1952). This black-and-white film from the Cold War days took advantage of the then-recently publicly revealed existence of Los Alamos (birthplace of the atomic bomb), focusing around a nuclear scientist whose child is kidnapped. Scenes set in and around Los Alamos, Santa Fe, and a climatic sequence taking place on a nearby Indian ruin make excellent use of the local scenery.
• Easy Rider (Dennis Hopper, 1969). While New Mexico isn't mentioned by name, much of the first half of the film is set in a hippie commune near Taos, giving a sense of what drew people to this remote area to eke out a living from the land and also serving as a great backdrop to the film's themes of freedom, the American Dream, and the issues of the 1960s.
• Death Comes for the Archbishop (Willa Cather, 1927). This acclaimed historical fiction novel by Willa Cather tells an imagined story about the lives of Jean-Baptiste Lamy (real-life first Archbishop of Santa Fe) and Joseph Projectus Machebeuf (real-life first Archbishop of Denver) during their time in New Mexico and the near-surrounds. It explores a myriad of issues, including the Long Walk of the Navajo (the forced migration of the Navajo from Arizona to the eastern portion of New Mexico), Kit Carson, the American takeover of New Mexico, and the struggles of life in an unforgiving land.
• Moonrise, Hernandez, New Mexico (Ansel Adams, 1941). This is one of Adams' most famous photographs, showing the stark contrast of scenery found in New Mexico: An almost-empty desert, with a few adobe buildings, with a mountain range in the background, and a clear sky.
• Taos Pueblo (Ansel Adams, 1930). This book contains Adams' photos taken in Taos and Taos Pueblo, including one of his more famous photos: San Francis de Asis Church in Taos.
• The Milagro Beanfield War (John Nichols, 1974). This popular novel (which was made into a movie of the same name by Robert Redford in 1988) centers around a Hispanic farming community in northern New Mexico trying to defend itself against outside business and state political interests, speaking to the real-life struggles of New Mexico's Hispanic communities to preserve their way of life.
• Breaking Bad (Vince Gilligan, 2008-2013). Of the many films and television shows filmed in New Mexico, the popular AMC series is one of the very few that is not only set here, but really makes the most of it. Centered around a high school chemistry teacher who resorts to cooking meth, the series effectively uses Albuquerque's culture and stark beauty as a backdrop to the main character's rise and fall within the local drug trade (which is indeed a major problem for New Mexico law enforcement). For an itinerary that will take you to many of the show's filming locations, see the Breaking Bad Tour guide.

• New Mexico Tourism website

The state's only major (commercial) airport is in Albuquerque, in nearly the exact center of the state. Santa Fe has limited connector service, and a few of the state's minor cities, such as Farmington, Roswell, Taos and Hobbs have commuter air service. A lot of smaller towns (often resort towns) like Angel Fire have single-strip airfields that can handle private or charter planes; for air travel to these, it's best to contact the relevant town's air services to schedule flights.

For travel to the southern part of the state, particularly the southwestern region, consider flying into El Paso in extreme west Texas. For example, Las Cruces, one of the state's largest cities, is only 45 miles from El Paso compared to 226 miles from Albuquerque.

Interstate 10 and Interstate 40 cross the state east/west, the former entering between El Paso and Las Cruces and paralleling the southern border, and the latter following the route of historic Route 66 through the middle of the state. Interstate 25 enters the state in its northeast corner near Raton, passes through the eastern plains, crosses the Sangre de Cristo Mountains at Glorieta Pass near Santa Fe, then follows the Rio Grande south through Albuquerque to its terminus at I-10 in Las Cruces.

Although New Mexico has a fairly long border with Mexico, there are few ports of entry. Most traffic inbound from Mexico enters the United States at El Paso and then continues to Las Cruces and beyond. In addition to the usual customs, etc., at the national border, there are checkpoints along the major highways out of Las Cruces at which vehicles may be searched for illegal immigrants. (If you're considering bringing an illegal in, don't; penalties are serious and enforcement is stepping up, if still uneven.) The small town of Columbus has a border crossing with Mexico that is open 24 hours a day. Santa Teresa NM, adjacent to El Paso and south of Las Cruces also has a port of entry. Although this border crossing is only open from 6AM-10PM, it forms a handy bypass of Ciudad Juarez and El Paso and is an important route for international commerce and travel.

In practice, traffic inbound from neighboring states is generally not subjected to inspection for controlled items, apart from the usual weigh stations, etc., for commercial trucks. However, commercial traffic heading out of New Mexico for Arizona may be inspected on the Arizona side of the state line, owing to concerns about the introduction of agricultural pests.

The Southwest Chief, the main Amtrak line through the southwestern United States, makes a daily run between Chicago and Los Angeles through New Mexico. Westbound, the line enters the state at Raton, and basically follows the route of I-25 to Albuquerque, making stops at Las Vegas and Lamy (where you can catch a shuttle bus to Santa Fe). After Albuquerque the train follows the route of I-40 to Gallup and on west.

The Sunset Limited makes its way from New Orleans to Los Angeles, with stops at El Paso, TX, Deming, and Lordsburg. This train runs three times a week.

The Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad of Chama (New Mexico) and Antonito, Colorado operates tourist trains with vintage equipment passing attractive scenery, but this line doesn't connect to any commercial railroads and isn't intended to open the state to the traveler from afar. There are no other rail services from other states (or Mexico) to points in New Mexico.

For the dedicated long-distance hiker the Continental Divide National Scenic Trail (in short Continental Divide Trail) is a United States National Scenic Trail running 3,100 mi (5,000 km) between Mexico and Canada. It follows the Continental Divide of the Americas along the Rocky Mountains and traverses five U.S. states; Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, Colorado, and New Mexico.

The New Mexico Rail Runner Express commuter train connects Albuquerque and Santa Fe, along with residential communities in the area.

Information on transit can be found from APTA.

Santa Fe (and really the north central region in general, which includes the artist hotspot of Taos) has a high concentration of artists and is a major destination for art collectors. The central tourist districts of Santa Fe and Taos are home to a huge number of extremely high-end art galleries as well as a number of excellent art museums. Outside of Santa Fe and Taos, one is still likely to come across galleries in the rural, smaller towns of the north central region, which often take on a more folk art characteristic with a still decidedly New Mexico twist. Albuquerque, though lacking Santa Fe's world-renowned image, has plenty of art institutions in its own right and offers a greater mix between the traditional arts which define Santa Fe and more contemporary work. Also take some time to enjoy the wholly unique Pueblo Deco architecture style which merges the indigenous and Hispanic elements with Art Deco from the early 20th century.

Some of the most notable (and most visited) art sites in New Mexico are Ghost Ranch - the former home and studio of artist Georgia O'Keefe - near Abiquiú and MEOW WOLF in Santa Fe. The High Road to Taos is littered with small art colonies and breathtaking vistas. And there are sizable galleries throughout the state that offer contemporary or traditional Native American art.

New Mexican architecture styles are sure to please the visitor, especially in Santa Fe and Taos, where local ordinances require buildings be constructed in certain adobe styles. These buildings are easily identifiable, as they usually all have some variation on the following themes: tan adobe walls with curved corners, wooden vigas (support beams that run along ceilings and protrude from exterior walls), and wooden doors/window frames. Turquoise is mined in the state, and many buildings will paint their doors and windows turquoise, making these buildings even prettier. This, combined with height restrictions, means that many New Mexican towns (especially in the northern part of the state) blend in well with the terrain and aren't filled with cookie-cutter buildings like in most of the rest of the US. Elsewhere in the state, the ranch style of house dominates, but the tan color scheme still reigns supreme (in lieu of wood most buildings will use silver-colored metal sheets). In the far north the two styles are combined, so towns will have adobe buildings with slanted metal roofs (for snow). These adobe buildings need periodic upkeep (i.e. slapping fresh mud and straw on it), and some places hold community festivals to do so (the most famous of which occurs when the St. Francis of Asisi church in Taos needs a new coat).

One of the primary attractions of New Mexico is its large and diverse collection of American Indian (or, if you prefer, Native American—both terms are used in the state) pueblos, reservations, artwork, and of course, people. The north central and central regions have the greatest diversity of Native American centers, while Navajo Nation in the northwest region (extending into the other Four Corners states) is the largest Indian reservation/nation within the contiguous United States. There are a few points of interest in other regions, such as the Mescalero Apache reservation in the southeast region and outlying parts of Navajo Nation in the southwest. For detailed information on each of the pueblos, see New Mexico Pueblos.

Many, but by no means all, of the American Indian communities welcome visitors, usually with some restrictions. Following are some tips if you're planning to see the sights of these communities:

• Check the regional articles for guidance on which pueblos/reservations are open to visitors; not all will be.
• Please respect local regulations regarding photography and sketching. Most north-central and central pueblos require would-be photographers and artists to pay for permits issued by the pueblo administration, and some don't allow photography or sketching at all. If the restrictions seem draconian, remember that these are not museum exhibits or theme parks, they're towns and settlements where people live their daily lives. However, if you are on public property, pictures may be legally taken. It doesn't matter if you are photographing someone who doesn't want to be photographed, or a building that locals do not want photographed. As long as you are on public property, you are within your legal rights to photograph anything in sight, so make your own decision.
• Most of the pueblos and reservations hold ceremonial dances, feasts and sings that welcome visitors, as well as some others of a more private, religious nature at which visitors are unwelcome if not forbidden. Many have succeeded in reconciling their historic religious practices with the dominant Christian (particularly Catholic) practice, and celebrations at Christmas (in some cases extending through much of December), Easter, and the feast day of San Antonio (June) are generally open to visitors.
• For many residents of some pueblos and reservations, not only is English not the primary daily language, it may not be spoken fluently or at all. Most residents in the "service" sector (i.e., those you'll interact with first) are as fluent in English as their Anglo colleagues in neighboring communities, and there is no reason to speak to them in a patronizing or condescending manner. However, if you venture far from the main tourist centers, you may run into language issues, although you're still odds-on to deal with English speakers. Patience and gestures will overcome many obstacles, but be aware that in certain areas (notably Navajo Nation) it is considered rude to point with extended fingers. A nod or tip of the head for indicating direction is considered more polite (true among fluent English speakers as well).

Another primary attraction of the state is its collection of major archeological sites from the Ancestral Puebloans (the term "Anasazi," which refers to the same group of people, has fallen out of favor), who are the ancestors of many of the Native American tribes in the Southwest today and inhabited the area from roughly the 700s AD to the 1300s, when it is believed they migrated to more promising locales, such as along the banks of the Rio Grande. Although Mesa Verde, the most famous of such ruins, is just to the north in Colorado, New Mexico is home to many stunning collections of ruins in its own right, the most renowned of which being Chaco Canyon in the northwest section of the state, with remarkably well-preserved walls and pictographs that are easily accessed. Also in the northwest part of New Mexico is Aztec Ruins National Monument near the town of Farmington, home to more well-preserved walls and an impressive reconstructed kiva. Near Los Alamos in the north central section is Bandelier National Monument, with a superb collection of cliff dwellings situated in a scenic canyon. Perhaps surprisingly, Petroglyph National Monument is located just to the west of Albuquerque, and preserves the largest collection of petroglyphs in the US. These are but just the most famous ruins; there are many other small ones open for viewing and in many parts of the state a hiker on public lands is likely to come across unexcavated ruins; in such a situation, remember not to disturb the site, do not remove any artifacts (pottery shards being the most common), and don't walk or sit upon the remains of walls.

Being in the high desert, New Mexico is home to a great deal of natural beauty and a surprising variety of it; a few hours of driving can take you from red rock desert to alpine forests, or from flat grassland to sandy dunes. There's some gorgeous scenic beauty in every corner of the state, but there are some highlights.

Many film buffs will be familiar with New Mexico's scenery, as most western Hollywood movies are filmed in the state because of favorable tax laws regarding filming. While perhaps the "western landscape", Monument Valley, is in neighboring Arizona, almost all of the mesas and rock formations commonly associated with the southwest are grouped together in New Mexico.

The northwest region of the state perhaps most exemplifies the popular image of the American Southwest, with red rock mesas and stunning cliffs; really much of the same kind of scenery you can expect in Northern Arizona or Southern Utah. El Malpais National Monument, on the edge of this region, has the unusual mixture of sandstone and volcanic rock, where the remains of ancient lava flows run up against tall sandstone cliffs. The red rocks mostly vanish as one moves into the north central region (although Abiquiu is notable for some stunning red rock features), replaced largely by alpine mountain ranges. The Valles Caldera National Preserve in the Jemez Mountains is the remnant of a huge volcanic caldera that now takes the form of a vast meadow in the middle of the range. The nearby Sangre de Cristo Mountains are the state's highest mountain range and perhaps its most spectacular, with several wilderness areas, ski areas, and alpine forests and meadows. West of Taos, the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument covers a spectacular section of gorge carved by the Rio Grande.

The elevation drops off as you move into the central part of the state, with alpine forests replaced by stands of piñon and juniper, although the spectacular Sandia Mountains above Albuquerque jut above the surrounding landscape and are the most easily accessible mountain range in the state, with an aerial tramway that rises from the foothills on the edge of the city straight up to the top of the crest. Within Albuquerque proper and stretching south is a scenic bosque (cottonwood forest) along the banks of the Rio Grande, a thin wetland which provides an important wildlife corridor for this part of the world. To the northeast, the scraggly piñon and juniper forests are replacing by wide, flat grasslands at the edge of the Great Plains.

The southwest portion of the state is home to some of the most remote wilderness areas in the state; where small mountain ranges mark the meeting point between the hot Chihuahuan Desert and the piñon-juniper forests of central New Mexico. The southeastern reaches of the state are where the elevation is at its lowest in the state, and are mostly a vast, featureless plain; although there are some scattered unusual geologic features, the most spectacular being Carlsbad Caverns, a collection of vast caves that are among the most stunning in the world. Near Alamogordo is White Sands National Park, the world's largest gypsum sand dune field and a frequent sight in the state's tourist literature.

Albuquerque is the host city for the International Balloon Fiesta, held each year during the first full week in October. This extravaganza of color and sound is a unique event, with participants from throughout the world bringing gaily colored and some unusual or "Special Shapes" hot air balloons. As many as 700 or 800 balloons have been registered with mass ascensions highlighting the mornings, balloon glows lighting up the night and competitions sprinkled in for the competitive and professional balloon pilots. And licensed pilots are required! This event draws tens of thousands of visitors to Albuquerque and New Mexico each year as participants, ground chase crew members and observers.

New Mexico is home to many scenic routes, such as the Enchanted Circle, which runs through Taos. Travel to the state's website to obtain a map with all scenic routes on it.

A considerable portion of New Mexico is preserved in national parks and monuments, national forests, wildlife refuges, and other wild areas, and is available to the hiker/backpacker. The pronounced north-south elevation gradient means that one part or another of the state has satisfactory hiking weather throughout the year. Good places and times for hiking include:

• The Sangre de Cristo Mountains, highest and most important range in the state, include several wilderness areas. Important trail heads are near Taos and Santa Fe on the west side, and near the otherwise obscure town of Cowles on the east. Hiking is best from June to September; many high-country trails will be snow-packed from November through May, and October is hunting season, when non-hunters do well to stay off the trails. For easy mountain hikes (in the summer), a trail runs up to the peak of Wheeler Peak from Taos Ski Valley, or travel to nearby Angel Fire for hiking along the ski slopes. For those interested in water activities (such as boating or fishing, not swimming), travel to
• The Jemez Mountains are a major volcanic range near Los Alamos and include Bandelier National Monument and Valles Caldera National Preserve. Bandelier offers excellent hiking practically year-round (hot in mid-summer), while the higher parts of the range are in Santa Fe National Forest or the Preserve and are good for summer and fall hiking. A disastrous forest fire in the year 2000, followed by an even worse one in 2011, severely degraded outdoor recreation in parts of the Jemez, but there are still plenty of opportunities.
• The Sandia Mountains near Albuquerque, and their southern extension into the Manzano Mountains, offer hiking and rock climbing. The La Luz Trail enters the mountains from Albuquerque itself and is possibly the most-used trail in the state. Hiking is usually feasible practically year-round, although snow will be sufficient in some winters to make the high-country trails impassable.
• The Gila Wilderness, in the southwest region near Silver City, is the largest roadless area in the state. Many of the trailheads into the Gila are remote and hard to reach, but as compensation offer a chance to get away from the crowds. Generally hikeable year-round, although the lower elevations will be uncomfortably hot in mid-summer.
• The Organ Mountains, in the southern part of the state, have several hiking trails close to major towns (notably Las Cruces), as well as spectacular rock climbing. Visit the Organs in fall, winter or spring; they're not high enough to escape the fierce heat of the summer.
• White Sands National Park is a white dune-covered area in the middle of a desert valley with lower-key hiking than the committal mountain trails. Picnics are common, and adults and children alike love to climb the snowy white hills of beach-like sand. Go in fall or winter; wind is nasty in spring, and it's blazing hot in the summer.
• Sugarite State Park near Raton was named a Top Ten state park in the nation by Camping Life Magazine. Visitors can explore the remains of the historic Sugarite Coal Camp, hike, fish, or camp.

New Mexico offers some of the best mountain biking in North America. Mountain Biking in New Mexico can be done in one of two ways: at private resorts or on public land. Each offers its own unique attractions.

The bike park in Angel Fire has been voted the "Best in the Southwest" 7 years in a row by MTBparks.com and is the largest bike park in the Rockies, and a handful of other up-and-coming bike parks are popping up across the state. Many ski resorts are turning their mountains into bike parks during the summer months, and these resorts offer the rider the ability to do downhill riding and some off-roading. The benefit of private resorts is that their mountains will often have runs for all levels of experience -- from beginner to expert -- and a wide variety of different runs to use. Many will also have certain areas or runs specifically set aside for tricks as well.

Mountain biking on public lands is a bit more complicated than at private resorts, with bikes falling under varying levels of restrictions depending on which government department manages the land you're on. None of the public lands allow complete off-roading or downhill style mountain biking (both of which can seriously damage an environment).

Generally, mountain bikes are considered "vehicles" under US laws (for the purpose of regulating access to trails and public lands), and thus they are not allowed on hiking trails or off-roading within public lands. Mountain bikes are allowed on all roads that pass through BLM-managed lands. Whether or not mountain bikes are allowed on trails (or even within the boundaries of certain places) is usually left to the individual park/monument/forest/etc. to make that decision. You will have to do your own research if you want to go mountain biking in any of these places in the state.

Alpine skiing is popular in New Mexico and is much more widely available than the state's desert image would suggest. Most of the state's ski areas are in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains in the north central part of the state, the best known being at Taos and Santa Fe (for those that want easier skiing, places like Angel Fire and Red River). However, there are also interesting areas near Los Alamos in the Jemez Mountains, in the Sandia Mountains above Albuquerque, and at Ruidoso in the southeastern part of the state.

Nordic (cross-country) skiing is also widely practiced, although snow conditions are marginal in some years. The most reliable snow for Nordic skiing is near Cumbres Pass on the Colorado state line near Chama. There is usually enough snow around Taos for Nordic work, and Enchanted Forest Nordic Ski Center near Red River maintains an extensive network of groomed trails. Nordic skiing at Bandelier National Monument and Valles Caldera National Preserve in the Jemez Mountains is of variable quality; the scenery is gorgeous, but snowpack varies greatly from year to year and may be insufficient to allow much skiing.

Two things to keep in mind if you're coming to New Mexico to ski: First, check on snow conditions before coming. Snowfall varies wildly from year to year in this area. The resulting variations in snowpack are such that even Taos may have marginal conditions, and some of the lower areas may not be open at all (Even if there is good snowfall in New Mexico, if Colorado has a bad year then the northern ski resorts are overrun by Coloradans, making it extremely difficult to ski comfortably or at high speeds; lift lines also take forever). On the other hand, if you come in a good snow year, conditions will be among the best in the world, so it's worth your time to do some research on conditions. Second, the ski areas are at high altitude by the standards of most of the world's Alpine ski resorts. If you're prone to altitude sickness, take precautions before coming, and spend a day or two acclimatizing in the towns before you start to ski.

For basic information about orienteering, see Orienteering.

Orienteering in the manner of the International Orienteering Federation and its national affiliate the Orienteering USA is offered by New Mexico Orienteers (NMO). NMO offers low-key, training-oriented competitions (meets) for all ages. Most meets include beginner, intermediate, and advanced courses. New courses are designed for each meet, to specifications recommended by USOF so that the courses have consistent and predictable levels of technical and physical challenge. Some recreation programs offer their own orienteering events. For a list of scheduled NMO meets and other ways to have fun orienteering in New Mexico, see the NMO website.

NMO has completed detailed maps of Rendija Canyon, Bayo Canyon, the area around Guaje Pines Cemetery, and connecting corridors across the mesas. NMO also has a map in development for Pajarito Mountain Ski Area and the adjacent Camp May and Santa Fe National Forest.

Los Alamos has excellent and free public transit. All orienteering map locations in Los Alamos can be reached by bus.

In 2000, Los Alamos was devastated by the Cerro Grande wildfire. Several of the orienteering venues here are affected by the wildfire, and subsequent drought and bark beetle outbreaks. Happily, as of 2010 most of the killed trees have fallen, and fallen trees and standing hazard trees have been cleared from trails. New growth is everywhere, mule deer are abundant, and some valleys have magnificent wildflower shows in summer and fall.

After orienteering you may like a hot shower or a swim. Hot showers and warm and cool swimming pools may be enjoyed for a small fee at the Larry Walkup Aquatic Center in Los Alamos.

In the Valles Caldera National Preserve (VCNP), NMO has made a detailed map of a portion of Valle Grande. This map is used in winter for ski and snowshoe orienteering. VCNP sometimes offers orienteering as one of its own visitor experiences.

Snowshoes for adults and children can be rented by the day, weekend, or week ($5, $10, $20) from the Larry Walkup Aquatic Center in Los Alamos (+1 505 662-8173). Weekend rental includes pick up Friday, return Monday. REI stores in Albuquerque (+1 505 247-1191) and Santa Fe (+1 505 982-3557) rent snowshoes and x-country skis, poles, and boots for around $15 per day.

After orienteering here, the closest places for a day visitor to get a hot shower or soak are in Los Alamos at the Larry Walkup Aquatic Center (95F), or in Jemez Springs at any one of several developed hot springs and spas.

Albuquerque boasts two orienteering maps, on either side of Sandia Crest. They are the Elena Gallegos Picnic Area on the west side (in town), and a large map on the east side covering the Doc Long, Sulfur Canyon, and Cienega Canyon picnic areas of the Cibola National Forest.

Almost the entirety of New Mexico is at high elevation (>4000 ft above sea level), and altitude-related issues are the most common health issues travelers will face while in the state. Most of the popular tourist attractions - especially as you go north - are well over 6000 ft in elevation, including Santa Fe (6998 ft), Taos (6969 ft), and Los Alamos (7320 ft). Even the lowest-altitude major city, Las Cruces, sits at 3900 ft. Plenty of smaller towns, especially those in mountains like Angel Fire or Red River in the Sangre de Cristos, are even higher, clocking in at 8000 ft or more.

The most common afflictions from the altitude are bloody noses and shortness of breath/more frequent breathing. Both of these are minor afflictions for the healthy traveler (really more of nuisances than actual problems), but for travelers with health issues like heart problems or asthma, these can compound already iffy situations. The best solution to the altitude "problem" is acclimation, which usually takes between 1-2 weeks, but for the short-term traveler, plenty of over-the-counter medications exist that can help.

Being at high elevation, the sun can prove more dangerous than one might expect. Higher elevation means that there's less particles in the air (hence harder breathing) to break the UV rays. Make sure to wear sunblock while outside, especially in the winter as the snow reflects the UV light more than normal.

New Mexico, being mostly desert climate, is obviously quite dry. This plus the altitude can make nosebleeds quite frequent and long-lasting. It's recommended to bring/buy a humidifier and use it. Also make sure to drink a lot of water throughout the day.

Like many western states, New Mexico has had cases of hantaviral pulmonary syndrome. The state has been able to confirm 84 cases of the illness since 1993, which is a significantly higher incidence rate than any other western state. Realistically, however, hantavirus is of very little concern to the traveler; but sensible precautions should be applied. Do not venture in a wild animal's den or handle any dead animals; particularly rodents, as rodents seem to be the primary vector of the illness. There is no cure for the disease, treatment mainly consists of supportive therapies. The main defense against the virus is prevention.

For more information on prevention and transmission, visit the CDC website on hantaviruses.

New Mexico is one of the rare places where bubonic plague, or yersinia pestis, is endemic. While it is quite rare that humans get it nowadays (about 5 people in the US die from it each year on average), travelers should still be cautious around wild animals, especially prairie dogs (which are the primary carriers of the fleas that carry it in the state). The common early symptoms are identical to the common flu, but if you alert your doctor about the disease while still in the flu-like symptoms stage, it can be treated. Travelers with pets should take extra caution to ensure that they don't hunt and kill prairie dogs, as the disease can jump from them to you.

• Albuquerque has a crime rate that is higher than average for an American city, but most of it is property crime that affects residents more than visitors. The "South Valley" and the region between the University of New Mexico and Kirtland Air Force Base (as well as the infamous "War Zone" near the state fairgrounds, the site of some nasty drug-related crime) are best avoided by solitary travelers after dark. Otherwise there are no specific violent-crime issues that unduly threaten the visitor.
• Illegal immigrants are common in the southern region of the state, although less so than in neighboring Arizona. There are checkpoints along major highways leading north, at which the Border Patrol checks vehicles for illegal passengers. Refer to this section for more information, and behave sensibly with them and you won't have any problems.
• There are some social problems associated with the drug trade that may create unpleasant situations for the unwary visitor in some areas. The world-wide cautions regarding packages from strangers apply here too, and, in addition, some caution is indicated in rural areas of the north central and northwestern regions. The former is a notorious "pipeline" for narcotics entering the country from Mexico, and you really don't want to blunder into a drug deal being transacted in the hinterlands. The main drug-related hazard in the rugged northwest is that it is a "drop zone" for contraband delivered by light plane. If you see a small plane drop below the local horizon when you know there is no airport around, don't investigate; chances are good that a shipment of something illegal has just been delivered to waiting, unfriendly people on the ground. This is less of a problem today than 20 years ago, but can still lead to decidedly hairy situations.
• Drunk driving is a notorious social problem in New Mexico, particularly in the northern half of the state. There is no hour of the day, and no road, immune to DUI. Drive defensively. Also watch out for drunk pedestrians, as public intoxication is not a crime in New Mexico.

• Disease: New Mexico made unpleasant headlines a few years ago owing to an outbreak of the "Sin Nombre" hantaviral lung disease that claimed some lives and depressed the tourist industry. Realistically, however, hantavirus is of very little concern to the traveler, as is the better-known bubonic plague that is endemic in the state's rodent population. Sensible precautions apply here as anywhere else (don't handle dead animals, don't poke around in animal dens, etc.), but these just aren't major concerns. Much more prevalent, if less threatening, is the Giardia parasite that causes gastro-intestinal disturbances; to avoid it, purify water if backpacking or camping. Tap water state-wide is generally safe.
• Most of the state is high desert. When out and about, use sun screen, and if hiking, carry more water than you think you'll need. It's wise to wear long pants when hiking (particularly off-trail) in the desert, even if they're uncomfortably warm; most of the desert flora and fauna are thorny, spiny or venomous, and long pants will help keep you from being stuck or bitten. (Don't worry unduly about rattlesnakes, though; many long-time residents of the state have never seen one, and bites are rare.) If bicycling, beware the dreaded "goat head," an invasive weed whose seeds, distributed in the fall, seem tailor-made for puncturing bike tires -- they look like a miniature version of the caltrops used in ancient days to hinder passage of foot soldiers. Carry a patch kit and a spare tube, particularly in the fall. Or find a bike shop (of which there are dozens in Albuquerque) and ask to have your tires "slimed". The "slime" is a thick, glue-like fluid inserted into the inner tube that will seal most punctures from the inside. You can also find pre-slimed inner tubes at Wal-Mart and Target. It is highly advisable to slime your bike tires in New Mexico. Otherwise, you are almost guaranteed to get a flat tire or two.
• The mountains of the north (and some near Alamogordo in the south) are high enough to create hazards from altitude sickness and some other environmental threats. The high peaks create thunderstorms in the summer, so that the wise hiker is off the summits by 1PM or so to avoid lightning strikes. Avalanches are fairly common in the Sangre de Cristos during the winter, and can occur in some of the other ranges.