Paulino Neves
Paulino Neves is a tiny town in Northern Maranhão. Historically a stopover between Parnaíba and Lençóis Maranhenses, it is trying to develop as a destination of its own.
It has beautiful sand dunes and lakes in the surroundings that are much easier to access than those of Barreirinhas. The scene has changed completely with the arrival of the paved road from Parnaiba a few years ago, as tourists mostly don't see the need to stop en-route, other than the 10-minute change from bus to truck. As the road to Barreirinhas is set to be paved as weel, this situation will most likely consolidate.
Get in
- From Barreirinhas to Paulino Neves: R$20 by Toyota 4x4. There are always trucks waiting for the bus from Parnaíba. Otherwise just sit at the square in front of the church and wait.
Access from Piauí is easy because the state has a paved road linking Paulino Neves and Parnaíba, via Tutóia.
- Tutóia to Paulino Neves: R$5; Toyota and buses every day.
- Most of the days there is a bus from Fortaleza to Paulino Neves, departing Fortaleza around 21:30 and taking 12 hours, stopping at Sobral, Camocim and Parnaíba, among others. By Expresso Guanabara.
It is fairly easy to find transport along the beach to Caburé. Hiring a truck with driver should be about R$150, taking at least 8 people. Otherwise look for a truck gong there to pick up a group. The ride should be R$20 per person, negotiable.
See and do
Walk the sandy streets. Visit with locals and get a sense of Brazilian culture and simplistic living.
- Swim in the river, Rio Novo. Best spot is on the north bank, some 300 metres northeast of the old bridge. If you feel courageous, jump from the bridge!
- Visit Pequenos Lençóis. See the brilliant white sand dunes with fresh water lagoons in the wet season (May-September). Pequenos Lençóis is a smaller version of Lençóis Maranhenses National Park: Monkeys, mangrove forest, birds, natural ecosystems. There is not much tourism in this area. To get in, walk to Pequenos Lençóis from Paulino Neves, or take a boat tour from Caburé.
- From the bridge walk north for about 20 minutes to get to the dunes. You don´t need a guide, just ask for "dunas". In the wet season, the road is partly submerged. Fresh water lakes for swimming.
- Arriving at the dunes, turn northeast and walk for another 20 minutes to get to the beach. This gets complicated in the wet season.
- Sleep under the stars and a full moon on the Pequenos Lençois
- Kayak to the mangrove forest. See monkeys and exotic birds.
- Relax by the Rio Novo at the few river bars and restaurants.
- Take a boat ride on the Rio Novo.
- Ecological Tours & Tourist Information, Rua Deme Trio Ribeiro, 18C (From the church square, cross the bridge that spans Rio Novo and take the first left (the main road through town). Pass through town, about 2-3 blocks, and make a right onto Rua Deme Trio Ribeiro. Walk two blocks and the business is on the right (Next to the empty lot with white fencing).), ☏ +55 98 8423 4982. Daily 09:00-23:00. Stop in for information and directions to destinations by foot. The office has two large hand-painted wall maps of the whole region, complete with local trails and travel brochures. Captain Marin and his fleet of two boats and three kayaks can take you to destinations hidden in Paulino Neves. Rent kayaks and take a tour of the mangrove forest, explore its narrow channels and see families of monkeys and exotic birds unique to this region of Maranhão. Enjoy an authentic churrasquinho on the white sand dunes of Caburé. R$20-50.
Eat
- Ivaldo (At the main square). 10:00-21:00 - might close in the late afternoon. Limited menu. Prato feito R$6.
- Rei do Hamburguer (At the end of the street from the main square). Evenings. Burgers at R$3-5.
- Aline (Just past Rei do Hamburguer).
Drink
The locals come together on Wednesdays and Saturdays, -the latter drawing more people. Follow the noise.
A few beer spots along the river on the south bank, a few hundred metres east of the old bridge.
Sleep
A dozen or so hostels, mostly on the north bank. Many cater for longer stays.
Connect
Slow internet by the bridge, R$2.50/hour.
Go next
You can walk a couple of kilometers across the dunes to the beach.
| Routes through Paulino Neves |
| São Luís ← Barreirinhas ← | W E | → Tutóia → Fortaleza |