Chernobyl

The Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant was constructed between 1972 and 1977 on the shore of the Pripyat river, about 100 km north of the Ukrainian capital Kyiv. Its location was selected because of the safe distance from the capital, the thinly populated area, and the proximity of water for cooling purposes. The plant has 4 massive nuclear reactors of the RBMK type, with a total electricity output of 4 GW — enough to power roughly 4 million microwave ovens. The plant design was innovative for the time, featuring hydrogen cooled generators with integrated electrolysis cells to generate the necessary hydrogen on site, as well as advanced computer systems. The machine hall housing the turbines and generators is one of the longest buildings in Europe with a length of 600 m.

Aside from nuclear and electronic innovations, the plant also implemented automatic control and safety systems, which needed to be field tested in a live production environment, as was common with all Soviet technology at the time. Of particular concern was the safety system handling a so-called station blackout, a situation in which external factors lead to a complete loss of electrical power to the power plant. The reactors, each with a thermal output of 3.2 GW, must be actively cooled in such a situation to avoid their cores from melting, and to do so powerful pumps are installed to pump cooling water to the reactor cores. Backup diesel generators were available to generate the required electricity to drive the water pumps, but due to their sheer size, they took over a minute to get up to speed — a minute during which the cores would remain uncooled. This was considered an unacceptable safety risk. Engineers came up with a clever solution, and proposed to use the residual momentum of the massive turbines and generators, acting as giant flywheels, to keep pumps running until the backup diesel generators produce enough power to take over the responsibility of cooling the reactors. The idea worked in theory but had never been tested, and Reactor 4 of the Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant was selected to verify the theory with an experiment.

Engineers devised a test scenario in which the output power of Reactor 4 would be decreased to a much lower level, at which the steam pipes between the reactor and its turbines would be closed off to let the turbines flywheel down. Measurement equipment was installed to log the output power of the generators, and the crew in the reactor control room was briefed on the technical details of the test. Because closing steam valves were interpreted by the electronic safety systems as fatal incursions which caused an automatic reactor shutdown, it was decided to disable these safety systems and transfer manual control to the operators in the control room. Calculations showed safe operations at all time, the test was approved, and scheduled for the evening of 26 April 1986. As Ukrainians went to bed and power consumption dropped, the test began and the output power of Reactor 4 was throttled back according to plan.

An unexpected failure in another sub station elsewhere in Ukraine required the Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant to take over power generation however, and electrical grid controllers demanded Reactor 4 to be brought back to full output power. Execution of the experiment needed to be postponed. By the time the issue was resolved and the experiment could resume, shifts in the control room staff had changed: the day shift had long gone home, and the evening shift was preparing to leave and hand over reactor control to the night shift. Because of the unexpected delay of the test, night shift operators had not been briefed, and instead of having to monitor decay heat in an otherwise shut down reactor, they were tasked to execute the test instead of their evening shift colleagues.

A series of human errors from the relatively inexperienced night shift operators resulted in the reactor being almost shut down completely, again causing the experiment to be postponed. It was decided to disable the last remaining automatic safety systems to get the reactor back online as quickly as possible, and all control rods were retracted manually. This left the reactor in an extremely unstable state that was not allowed by operational procedures. When the experiment finally started, shutting off the steam valves caused a positive feedback in the reactors output power, but alarms were ignored by the operators in the control room. With no automated safety systems counteracting reactor power fluctuations, the output power soared exponentially to over 11 times its rated maximum power level.

The enormous heat produced by the reactor in a short time caused the remaining cooling water in the reactor core to flash to steam. The resulting shock wave blew the cover off the reactor, and the extremely hot reactor core caught fire when exposed to outside air. Volatile radioactive materials and small reactor particles were carried into the air by the fires updraft and started to rain down in a large area around the reactor. Pieces of reactor core were ejected from the reactor and landed in its vicinity, including the roof of adjacent Reactor 3, starting fires everywhere. The roof of Reactor 4 was completely destroyed, leaving the burning reactor core exposed to the environment and emitting deadly levels of radiation.

In the middle of the night, it was difficult to assess the exact magnitude of the accident. The fire fighting brigade of the Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant and the brigades from Pripyat and Chernobyl were rallied to the burning reactor in an attempt to put out the fire. No one expected the reactor to be damaged, being the first accident of its kind in history. Few radiation detectors were available, and none had a range sufficiently high to measure the radiation levels emitted by the burning reactor core. Firefighters only knew there were high radiation levels, but nobody new exactly how high they were. Only when the situation was assessed in the morning by a helicopter, it became clear what had happened when helicopter crews saw the burning reactor core from the air.

With nothing to cool the reactor core, it melted and mixed with concrete, steel, and other parts of the reactor, in what is known as a meltdown. The highly radioactive mass, having a lava-like consistency, started to melt its way through the bottom of the reactor. An immediate concern was this radioactive lava, now dubbed "corium", making contact with water in the flooded basement of the reactor building. In such an event the water would instantly flash into steam, causing a second steam explosion potentially sending even more radioactive materials into the atmosphere. A team of volunteers was assembled for a suicide mission, with the objective of finding the valves in the basement and opening them to drain the water. With only limited radiation protection and basic diving gear, the engineers managed to find the valves in the darkness of the flooded basement and successfully completed their mission. Contrary to media reports at the time, the team returned alive, and soon afterwards the corium melted its way into the basement as predicted. With nothing to stop the lava flow, contact with ground water was thought to be inevitable. Engineers came up with a plan that has never been tried before: freezing the earth under the reactor building. A team of coal miners was called in and tasked to tunnel under the reactor, installing pipes to inject liquid nitrogen (at -196 °C) into the earth to freeze it. As the corium spread out however, the decay heat alone was no longer sufficient to keep it liquid, and most of it solidified in the basement. One such formation became known as the Elephant's Foot after its shape. It is so radioactive that it has never been observed by humans directly; the only pictures made were taken around a corner with a mirror because intense radiation instantly destroys any camera equipment. With looking at it meaning certain death, the Elephant's Foot was referred to as the Medusa of Chernobyl.

When it had become evident that the burning reactor kept spewing radioactive materials into the atmosphere and could not be closed off from the environment in any way, authorities commanded the evacuation of all cities, towns, and villages around the power plant. At first the perimeter was only 5 km, but was quickly expanded to 10 km and then 30 km in the days after the accident. With winds initially favourable and directing the most radioactive fallout away from populated areas, conditions deteriorated rapidly after 3 days and threatened the city Pripyat with 50,000 inhabitants just 3 km north of the power plant. A large scale evacuation was ordered, with trains and over 1,000 buses arriving at the city to coordinate the evacuation efforts. It was initially thought that a method to contain the radioactivity would be found quickly, and the residents of Pripyat were told the evacuation would only be for a few days. Expecting to return swiftly, all but the most precious personal belongings were left behind, and when the evacuation became permanent, Pripyat and all other towns and villages were frozen in time.

To put a stop to plundering, the military took over security of the evacuated areas which were part of the Exclusion Zone. Hunting squads were dispatched to cities and towns to eliminate left behind pets, and cleaning teams went door to door to collect left-over food to prevent the outbreak of epidemics and pest infestations. Most former residents of the Exclusion Zone were resettled elsewhere in the Soviet Union, and with almost zero economic opportunities within the Zone, few ever returned. The Exclusion Zone remains a desolate nuclear wasteland today.

The immediate surroundings of what remained of Reactor 4 had become extremely radioactive. Highly radioactive debris, among which parts of the reactor core itself, had been flung hundreds of metres away by the steam explosions, and volatile radioactive compounds vaporized by the intense heat of the burning reactor had rained down in a wider area. Excavators, diggers, bulldozers, and specialized robotic vehicles were rallied to the site to aid in the cleanup efforts. Many of the tasks still needed to be done by humans however, especially in areas with the highest levels of radioactivity where even robots were disabled by the intense radiation. The most notorious work to be done was the cleanup of the roof of Reactor 3, littered with lumps of smouldering graphite moderator and pieces of nuclear fuel. Volunteers from the army were dressed up in lead armour as crude protection against radiation and then sprinted over the roof to shovel debris over the edge back into the gaping void where Reactor 4 used to be. Intense radiation limited work time on the roof to only 40 seconds, after which radiation sickness kicks in. The actual doses were much higher than those measured, and many of these Liquidators — the unofficial name given to personnel tasked with the liquidation of the accident consequences — contracted radiation induced illnesses some time afterwards.

In an attempt to stop the chain reaction, the best helicopter pilots of the Soviet Union piloted the heaviest cargo helicopters in existence at the time over the burning reactor. They dropped sand, concrete, and boric acid into the reactor to shut it down, and exposed directly to the shine of the reactor below, most of the air crew received lethal doses of radiation. One of the helicopters struck cables from a nearby construction crane and crashed into the reactor, killing the crew. Aside from reactor control room operators killed by the steam explosions, these were the only recorded direct deaths caused by the accident — hundreds more fell ill in the days and weeks after their cleanup shifts, and eventually died of radiation poisoning. Although not all liquidators died, the term became a synonym to suicide missions in an attempt to contain the radioactive contamination. Tragically, it was revealed years later that most of the payloads dropped by helicopter crews missed their target, making the pilots' sacrifice in vain.

To remediate the contamination surrounding the destroyed reactor, the areas with the worst contamination were bulldozed. Trees received such high radiation doses that entire forests died, turning them red. These so-called Red Forests were bulldozed and the trees buried in trenches. Buildings were razed and the rubble also buried, the most radioactive areas were concreted over to prevent radioactive materials from escaping. On the outskirts of the Red Forest, directly west from the Pripyat city sign, many concrete patches can be found in the grass as tombstones sealing off their dangerous burials. Vehicles used in the liquidation efforts such as trucks, APCs, bulldozers, helicopters etc. were collected at a vehicle cemetery at Buriakivka. The cemetery could be visited until 2008, when authorities deemed it too dangerous. Some of the vehicles remain lethally radioactive even as of 2019. Some of the vehicles have since been scrapped and recycled. Some vehicles were buried with haste, and parts of them can still be seen sticking out of the ground. Personal protection equipment used by liquidators, mostly wellies and gloves, were dumped all over the place and remain radioactive hot spots today.

With the remains of the extinguished reactor exposed to rain and wind, radioactive materials continued to be released into the atmosphere. Preventing further release of contamination was a priority, and by 20 May 1986, a mere 20 days after the accident, engineers had completed the design for a containment building to seal off the reactor remains from the outside world. A massive civil engineering project ensued, in an effort to quickly construct what was soon called the Sarcophagus. Construction took 206 days in extreme conditions, with builders exposed to lethal radiation levels. Over 400 000 m³ of concrete and 7 300 tons of steel were used in the construction of the Sarcophagus, designed to entomb 250 tons of reactor debris and radioactive dust. By the time the Sarcophagus was nearing completion, its inside had become too radioactive for welding, and thus not all the voids could be properly sealed. The Sarcophagus was designed to last at least 30 years, giving engineers ample time to come up with a more permanent solution. Together with the adjacent chimney, the Sarcophagus became the most iconic sight associated with the accident, and the single most photographed structure in Ukraine after the dissolution of the Soviet Union.

Little is known that the other 3 operational reactors of the Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant kept producing electricity long after the accident, because the Ukrainian government could not afford to lose the production capacity. After the independence of Ukraine in 1991 however, countries bordering Ukraine and European Union member states became concerned about the state of the 3 operating nuclear reactors and the possible lack of maintenance they received after the withdrawal of Soviet scientists from the site. Political pressure was increased to shut down the reactors, and Reactor 3 — ironically the one next to the destroyed Reactor 4 — was the last one to be taken offline in December 2000, over 16 years after the accident had occurred.

When visiting the Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant today, visitors get to see neither the iconic chimney nor the Sarcophagus, the latter now encapsulated in a giant some 100 m high arch called the New Safe Confinement building, often referred to as the NSC. Its construction was a joint international effort, finished late 2018. Unlike the Sarcophagus, the NSC is designed as a permanent solution with the explicit purpose to provide facilities for future dismantling of existing structures and final remediation of the site — whenever that will be. The chimney was demolished to make space for the NSC, and with it, the Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant has lost its most famous and recognizable points of interest. The NSC was constructed 140 m west of the Sarcophagus, and was pushed over the Sarcophagus on rails using hydraulic pistons. With a length of 270 m and width of 150 m, the NSC is the largest land based movable structure on the planet.

Guided tours stopped at a monument about 200 m from the NSC, dedicated to the workers who sacrificed their health in the construction of the Sarcophagus. Much in contrast with 1986, the radiation levels around the power plant are very low nowadays (never exceeding 5 µSv/h), and thus very safe to visit.

The NSC includes robotic systems to help in the disassembly and decommissioning of the Sarcophagus and remains of Reactor 4, hence none of these cleanup efforts will be visible to visitors. With the exact magnitude of cleanup efforts still very much left to be determined, the shiny metallic shape of the NSC promises to dominate the landscape for years to come.

Pripyat is a freeze-frame of 1980s Soviet life. Propaganda slogans still hang on walls, and children's toys and other items remain as they were. Buildings are rotting, paint is peeling and looters have taken away anything that might have been of value. Trees and grass are eerily reclaiming the land. The Exclusion Zone is somewhat of a macabre tourist destination. In 2002, it opened for tourism, and in 2004 there were 870 visitors, a number that increased to 70 000 in 2018, up 20 000 from 2017. In an effort to evoke sentiment from tourists, guides have unfortunately been tempted by manipulating Pripyat history, for example by leaving behind half decayed teddy bears in certain locations.

Even 33 years after the accident, a debate about its total number of fatalities is still ongoing. Fearing bad PR, the USSR for several years forbade medical examiners from listing radiation as a cause of death. Estimates of deaths related to the accident range from 56 to 1,000,000! The World Health Organization suggests the final figure could reach 4,000 civilian deaths, a figure not including casualties among liquidators from the Soviet military forces. The numbers presented for consequential death from radiation exposure induced illness and cancer vary considerably, with Greenpeace giving estimates of more than 200,000. A Russian publication concluded that between 1986–2004 there were 985,000 premature cancer deaths worldwide as a result of radioactive contamination from Chernobyl.

The largest inhabited settlement in the Exclusion Zone in 2019 is the town Chernobyl, after which the nuclear power station was named. About 3,000 people live there, and almost all work in the Exclusion Zone on a 15 days in, 15 days off rotation schedule. Including tourists and officials (UAEA inspectors, engineers, scientists), the population count of the Exclusion Zone now varies between 5,000 and 7,000, so you will certainly not be alone anymore when visiting.

On 25 February 2022, Chernobyl was invaded by Russia as part of its invasion of Ukraine. Russian control of the site appears to have now ended, but the occupiers have done extensive and reckless damage, from digging battle trenches into some of the most radioactive and contaminated soil on the planet to interfering with electricity supplies needed to cool the ruined plant to looting computers and other valuable equipment. While the site is now stable and the worst possible disaster averted, Ukraine remains at war and is fighting for its life at the hands of the Russian occupiers. The guided tours of Pripyat will not be returning any time soon.

• Svetlana Alexievich's Voices from Chernobyl: The Oral History of a Nuclear Disaster offers personal insight into the lives of residents before and after meltdown. ISBN 0312425848.
• UNSCEAR's assessments of the radiation effects.

All visitors are given a list of safety rules, which must be read and signed before entering the Exclusion Zone:

• Do not act as in an amusement park: It is the site of a nuclear disaster and still dangerous, so act reasonably and responsibly.
• Do not take pictures/footage of security measures: Police, guards, checkpoints, CCTV cameras and systems of physical protection are not the right place for cool selfies.
• Do not touch anything and do not sit on the ground: Try to avoid any contact with potentially contaminated surfaces. When you sit on the ground or any place, you significantly increase the risk of contaminating yourself.
• Avoid additional exposure: It is forbidden to wear shorts, t-shirts, skirts or other open types of clothing during a visit.
• Do not take items that originate from the Zone: It is not only very dangerous for your health but also strictly prohibited by the Law.
• Do not eat or drink at open air: You can swallow radioactive dust along with food, and they will remain inside your body.
• Do not consume alcohol and/or drugs: While in the Zone, you must be sober and in adequate condition. No exceptions.
• Do not smoke anywhere except designated places: Smoking often causes fires, and remains add trash.

The power plant, home to four decommissioned RBMK-1000 reactors, offers amazing insight into Soviet nuclear and architectural engineering practices for those able to arrange in-depth visits. Commercial tours stop only at the Reactor 4 observation pavilion. Visitors wishing to experience the interior of the plant must request permission via a letter faxed to the plant's general director (Igor Gramotkin) as outlined on the plant's website. The letter should introduce you or your group, and explain in detail what you want to see. Admission, by no means guaranteed, presumably favors professionals employed in relevant fields. Visitors are issued badges and indirectly-read TLD-type dosimeters at the power plant entrance, then pass through a modern security checkpoint in the ABK-1 administrative building, and thereafter are given cotton coats, caps, and booties in preparation for entering the radiological control zone. A higher standard of dosimetry and personal protective equipment may be issued for some areas, such as the "Sarcophagus." Visitors' own dosimetry devices are not allowed inside ChNPP. Always be mindful that this is a fueled nuclear facility and security is taken seriously. Strictly follow directions from plant personnel about photography, and never attempt to rest anything on the floor (it may be confiscated due to contamination). The exit portal monitors at ChNPP are thankfully much less sensitive than those found in most American nuclear plants, but still it's a good idea to wear fresh clothes and shoes rather than articles that may have been contaminated elsewhere in the Zone. In 2011, visitation was allowed to Unit 3 main circulation pump rooms, the live 750-kV switchyard control room, the Unit 1 control room, the Phase 1 dosimetry panel, and the memorial to engineer Valery Khodemchuk in the ventilation building between Reactors 3 and 4, among other places. The turbine hall was closed due to excessive radioactivity in 2011, but was accessible in 2010. A particularly interesting place is the bunker under ABK-1 that is used as an emergency response center (as it was in the 1986 accident).

The power plant has a cafeteria that serves freshly-prepared and appetizing Ukrainian food.

Some commercial tours may stop to feed bread to the monstrous catfish living in the condenser cooling channel that flows under the railroad bridge near ABK-1. Do not take pictures in the direction of the power plant from this location. (Your guide will probably make this rule abundantly clear.)

ChNPP has its own train station, 🌍 Semikhody. Trains travel without stopping between Semikhody and Slavutych. The service is free. As there are no stops while the train passes through Belarus, there are no border controls. Visitors exiting the Exclusion Zone via Semikhody must pass through a portal monitor and their personal belongings may be frisked for radionuclide contamination.

• 🌍 Cooling Towers. 24/7. At the time of the accident, 2 more reactors of the same type as no. 4 were under construction to the south east of the existing 4 reactors. Construction was efforts were suspended indefinitely after the accident, and the nearly completed reactors were never fuelled. The structure is being dismantled as of 2019, but its half completed cooling towers remain. The northern tower is about twice as tall as the southern tower and can be seen from a distance. The concrete rebar sticking out from the top rim is a silent witness of the abruptness with which construction was halted. Free. (updated Apr 2019)

• 🌍 Fish hatchery. 24/7. On the shore of the lake near the cooling water intake canal entrance is a fish hatchery with supporting buildings. Fishery was an economically interesting opportunity in the lake because it never froze over due to the elevated temperature of the water being used to cool the 4 operational reactors. This meant fishing was sustainable year round, and the fish caught were larger than elsewhere. The fish hatchery was abandoned after the accident, and one of the few buildings within a 5 km radius around reactor no. 4 that are not related to the power plant itself. The hatchery is not fenced off and can be visited, along with the remains of its floating dock. The shore offers a nice viewing point for the lake. Free. (updated Apr 2019)
• 🌍 Atomskaya Mural. 24/7. The largest mural in the Exclusion Zone, depicting Przewalski horses living in harmony with the power of the atom in the hand of mankind. Free. (updated Oct 2019)

• 🌍 Red Forest. 24/7. A strip of birch and pine forest that was contaminated with the worst fallout, killing off most of the vegetation because of the intense radiation and turning trees reddish brown — hence the name. Trees were felled and buried in trenches by liquidators, then covered over with soil and occasionally concrete slabs.
  
  The Red Forest is still the most radioactive area in the Exclusion Zone, and marked with radiation warning signs but not fenced off in any way. As of 2019, radiation levels vary between 4 µSv/h (microsievert/hour) and 15 µSv/h, with local hot spots reaching 40 µSv/h. Spots where material is buried have considerably higher dose levels. It is recommended to stay no longer than 90 minutes around these hot spots (equivalent to a daily accumulated those of 60 µSv which is the threshold for radiation workers). As the most radioactive outdoor area in Europe, exploring the Red Forest is an experience on its own, but adequate safety measures must be taken. Wear protective wellies, carry an electronic dosimeter (PED) with warning threshold set no higher than 20 µSv/h, and do not touch anything. When leaving the Red Forest, protective wellies must be decontaminated (washed off).
  
  If possible, take a geiger counter or similar radiation measurement device with you into the Red Forest to compare activity levels at different locations. Birch trees and lichen are particularly prone to absorbing radioactive Cesium (accounting to the majority of radiation after 32 years), and often read much higher radiation levels with peaks up to 3,000 counts per second not exceptional. Make sure the probe of the geiger counter does not touch any of the vegetation to avoid contaminating it! Free. (updated Apr 2019)

The famous abandoned city, which once housed 50,000 residents. Sights to see are the schools, kindergarten, public buildings and the amazing cultural palace which contains a swimming pool, cinema and gymnasium, and overlooks the famous ferris wheel. Hazards are the crumbling buildings, and decaying wooden floors in places – so be careful. The government has deemed all buildings in the town condemned, so most tours will not let you enter the buildings*.

*As of 2019, entry into all buildings in Pripyat is banned, because as the buildings age they become structurally unstable, and the government and most tour groups would rather not deal with the results of a tour group being caught in a cave-in. Experienced guides in some tours, however, know which buildings are "safe" (stable enough) to enter, and will take groups in for photos. If they do, only go where they go as they know what parts of the buildings are stable and what parts aren't. Generally this is limited to the sports facility (the pool) and the roof of an apartment tower. Most of the buildings were 'cleaned' of their radiation during the liquidation process and now contain amounts similar to downtown Kyiv, so the dangers come not from radiation but from the buildings themselves. Places like the amusement park and the main square are still accessible because they don't involve entering any buildings.

Minibus day-trips from Kyiv typically stop in the town's center, at the west end of Lenin Street near the Palace of Culture. Short-term visitors are confined to the pavement at ground level; if you join one of these tours, your risk exposure is minimal, but so too is your exposure to the vast cultural reliquary that is Pripyat. A more in-depth visit (several days, staying overnight at the InterInform hotel in Chernobyl, eating meals at the InterInform stolovaya) costs about US$200 per person per day in a group of four (2011). The long-term visitor is rewarded with considerably more freedom to explore, accompanied of course by an InterInform guide.

Decades of neglect have resulted in a physically-hazardous ex-urban environment in which radiation is of distant, secondary concern. Hazards include uncovered manholes in the middle of barely-recognizable streets, open elevator shafts, flooded basements, decayed wooden floors, collapsed roofs, large amounts of broken glass, challenging footpath obstructions in dark hallways, and quite possibly asbestos. Flashlights are essential to exploring interiors. Although radiation isn't a relatively major concern, the "hotter" spots in town would most certainly be off-limits to the public in the United States or Western Europe. As an example, the basement of the Polyclinic contains first responders' clothing (firefighters' clothes, boots, helmets, etc.) and presents external gamma exposure rates approaching one roentgen (R) per hour (June 2010). As of October 2017, the only access into the hospital basement is by crawling through a hole dug after the basement access was deliberately buried. Some other hot spots are well known to guides and they can either help you avoid these places or find them if so inclined. The hot spots most commonly visited by tours are mostly marked with radiation signage. These hot spots are generally either places that were not decontaminated previously, contaminated objects, or locations where radioactive materials have collected together due to rain runoff. The most important precaution concerning radioactivity is to avoid ingesting loose contamination. Although your guide might eat snacks or smoke in Pripyat, you should not – particularly if you have been handling things or visiting places like the hospital basement. Buy an ample supply of drinking water at one of the magazines in Chernobyl before going to Pripyat (obviously there is not potable water there). Water can also be used to rinse contaminated shoes before re-entering vehicles.

• 🌍 Duga Radar. 24/7. Within the 10 km zone is a large former secret radar installation that the Soviet government used to detect missiles, the Duga 3 Radar. From Pripyat, it is easy to see in the distance, if looking from a point of elevation. Free. (updated Apr 2019)

• 🌍 Central bus station, Kirova 2б. Grocery store in the main building of the Central bus station, to the left of the entrance. (updated Nov 2019)
• 🌍 Вечный Зов (Vechnyj Zov), Lenin Street. Convenience store next to the fire station. They have a variety of drinks, biscuits, and food. During summer months they also have some ice cream! (updated Nov 2019)

With tourism in the Exclusion Zone booming after the 2019 HBO series on the Chernobyl accident, it is no surprise that a variety of nuclear themed souvenirs are available. The most popular ones are t-shirts, mugs, and coins. They can be purchased in most shops and restaurants in Chernobyl town. The iconic gift shop at the Dityatki security checkpoint, famous for playing Fallout themed music, has been destroyed during the 2022 Russian invasion of the Exclusion Zone.

• 🌍 RadioProActive, Чорнобильінтерінформ, Bohdana Khmelnytskoho. A selection of shirts (male and female, various sizes) can be purchased from a vending machine. A share of the revenue is automatically donated to settlers in the Exclusion Zone. To buy mugs with a trefoil logo on it, ask at the bar. They also sell some post cards, but usually no stamps. 500 грн. (updated Nov 2019)
• 🌍 Tamianske, Radianska 74. Copper or gold plated commemorative coins with a trefoil embossed on the face side and the iconic chimney of the Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant on the back side. 40 грн. (updated Nov 2019)

• 🌍 Community Centre, Rabkorovska. Various nuclear themed t-shirts and other memorabilia. (updated Nov 2019)

As radiation levels in most of the Exclusion Zone continue to drop, backcountry camping is gaining more popularity as an alternative to spending the night in one of the designated hotels in Chernobyl town. Exploring the Exclusion Zone on foot and spending the night outdoors is probably the closest you'll ever get to a Fallout game experience. Spending the night in a tent in the world's most famous nuclear wasteland is a unique opportunity, but not for the faint of heart! It is strictly prohibited to make a camp fire due to the risk of forest fires, so electric torches are the only way to fend off wild animals—wolves and bears roam around at night. Rather than setting up your tent outside, it is recommended to set it up indoors instead, in one of the many abandoned warehouses or barns dotting the Exclusion Zone.

When traversing the Exclusion Zone off-road, make sure to bring an up-to-date radiation map, a compass, and a mobile satellite navigation system. Bring a radiation detector to verify radiation levels where you want to set up your camp, keep in mind that you'll be spending at least 6 to 8 hours here, so absorbed doses can accumulate fast. Aim for a dose rate of 10 µSv/h or lower where you set up camp. Setting up camp in or close to the Red Forest (the area with the highest radioactivity levels) is a bad idea, spending the night there may cause radiation sickness.

See also: Urbex

If in Pripyat, exercise caution when entering buildings—the ground around entrances to, and inside buildings will generally be littered with broken glass, concrete and debris. Be sure to take care inside buildings as the flooring can be somewhat uneven (and sometimes unstable), handrails are missing, and elevator doors be left open with no elevator present. Watch your footing—a decent pair of shoes or boots would be a good idea. Tours are no longer allowed to enter the buildings due to an accident involving a floor collapsing injuring several tourists. All visitors sign written acknowledgements of the Exclusion Zone rules, including the rules prohibiting structural access. However, it remains routine (2017) for in-depth custom tours to enter Pripyat structures and forested areas at the discretion of the guide.

Although some of the switch gear and power line infrastructure has been decommissioned after the shutdown of the 3 last reactors in the late 1990s, electrical power is supplied to the nuclear power plant site, Chernobyl, and many air quality monitoring stations from outside the Exclusion Zone. Do not touch electrical cables or other electrical infrastructure, even if they're laying on the ground, as many of these still carry live voltages.

Withdrawal of almost all human activity from the Exclusion Zone allowed nature to retake the area. Boars and bears are common as evidenced by hoof and paw prints in mud, and might attack when they feel cornered or threatened. Bears particularly enjoy the shelter of abandoned buildings, so make sure to make lots of noise when approaching buildings and never obstruct the path to (and away out from) a door to provide an easy escape route for animals that feel trapped.

Packs of wolves also roam through the Exclusion Zone, have grown in numbers, and are not afraid to venture into human occupied territories like the Chernobyl town. Inhabited properties are often fenced off with tall walls to keep wolves out, and it is common for doors to be locked at night. If you decide to bring smaller dogs or other pets into the Exclusion Zone, do not leave them outside at night!

Rising political tensions with neighbours Belarus and Russia have increased security around the nuclear power plant, with armed guards at security checkpoints and patrolling soldiers a common sight in the direct proximity of the plant. Do not make photographs of the checkpoints or whoever guards them. When photographing the NSC or any of the former power plant structures, avoid putting the 🌍 spent fuel storage facility and its supporting structures in view, as this tends to make guards nervous. When caught, your camera might be confiscated or your SD card formatted.