Santa Cruz (city, Bolivia)

For its first 400 years Santa Cruz was very poor and far from potential markets to be able to grow at all. It shares this with the rest of eastern, northern and south eastern Bolivia for most of its history, up until some 50 years ago when a paved road was opened and the possibility of markets opened which summed with some royalties from oil production they also started receiving served as seed to one of the fastest growing cities and economies in the continent. Growth was slow to start but after some 20 years it was spectacular. Today it is difficult to imagine this city and provincial towns of the department for what they really were some 25 or 50 years ago.

In contrast to La Paz and the other major Bolivian cities located high in the Andes, Santa Cruz lies at an altitude of 416 meters, and its climate is distinctly tropical. Santa Cruz is furrowed by drainage ditches.

During the winter months of July-August, there are occasional periods when strong Southern Winds (Surazos) come from Argentina and bring a cold front accompanied by extreme winds.

There are many bus companies from another cities, like Cochabamba, La Paz, Sucre, Trinidad, that go to Santa Cruz de la Sierra. You can arrive from La Paz in about 18 hours, and it takes about 10 hours from Cochabamba.

To and from the Brazilian border in Corumba/Puerto Quijarro is cheaper and faster (10 hr and tickets from Bs. 40) than the famous death train.

Asunción (Paraguay) – The bus is extremely slow (the Transchaco Highway is only paved as far as the Bolivian border), buses generally travel only at night - meaning that you miss out on any views of the Chaco, and roadblocks on the Bolivian side of the border can cause your journey time to double. There is at least one bus daily. The trip takes 21-24 hr, costs US$40-60 (bargain if you can), and flights might actually only be marginally more expensive, depending on the time of booking. Any intermediate exit or boarding (like Filadelfia or Villamontes) will likely cost the same as the complete trip. But if your nerves are strong, you will get the price down bargaining directly with the bus driver.

A taxi from the bus terminal to the center will cost about Bs. 12.

The "death train" (so named because of its history in transporting Yellow Fever victims) runs on bumpy tracks from Puerto Quijarro, close to Corumbá on the Brazilian side. There is a variety of different trains offering different classes and prices. The journey takes 13-17 hr. The most comfortable option, with cama seats, is the "Ferrobus" (Tu Th Sa) which costs Bs. 235 per person (Jul 2019). Expreso Oriental needs longer, but only costs Bs. 70. Tickets can be purchased days in advance at the station (Terminal Bimodal) or online (ticktsBolivia.com, plus a US$7 fee). Biting insects are plentiful, so get repellent before you go. It's also a good idea to have blankets or a sleeping bag with you in the colder months of June-August.

The railway between Santa Cruz and Puerto Quijarro is operated by Ferroviaria Oriental S.A..

For crossing the border see Puerto Quijarro.

From Corumbá the bus-ride to Sao Paulo takes about another 24 hr.

• 🌍 Viru Viru International Airport (VVI  ^IATA). Bolivia's largest and most modern airport, and a hub for BoA. International flights on BoA travel to Madrid, São Paulo, and Buenos Aires with other destinations on the horizon. AeroSur is no longer operational. American Airlines flies direct to Miami. Other options include a variety of destinations via Panama, and LATAM and Avianca also fly to Santa Cruz. Gol Airlines and Aerolineas Argentinas also offer flights to São Paulo and Buenos Aires, respectively. Air Europa also flies direct to Madrid. 

Getting there/away: To get into downtown Santa Cruz from the airport you have two options. The first is to take a taxi that will charge you approximately Bs. 50. This is probably the easiest and most comfortable way to get into town. Make sure to ask the driver the fare since there is not a sign with prices to different parts of the city. If you are on a tight budget the second option is a "micro" or mini-bus that waits outside the front doors of the airport that leaves every 20 min, the fare for the bus is Bs. 6.50. There is an additional surcharge of Bs. 4 for the buses that depart after 22:00. This bus follows the Cristo Redentor Avenue and then along the First Ring where it stops near the former bus terminal. To get to the main plaza, ask the driver to let you off at Libertad and Primer Anillo (First Ring). From there, it is about a seven-block walk.

• 🌍 El Trompillo Airport (SRZ  ^IATA). It is the city's older airport. Major airlines have daily flights to Santa Cruz de la Sierra, mainly from La Paz (about 4 flights per day: early in the morning, in the afternoon, early in the evening, and late in the night). From Cochabamba (about 2 flights per day). Flights to international cities are also daily, (Sao Paulo, Brasil - Buenos Aires, Argentina - Lima, Peru - there are daily flights). American Airlines has daily service to and from Miami. 

Getting there/away: Trompillo is very close to the city center, and is thus a cheaper taxi ride. Micros also pass by the airport, exit the departure hall and walk down the road to the right until you reach an intersection. Cross the street and wait for Micro 40 or 42. The information counter in the airport provides helpful information and distributes free maps.

About Bolivian airlines and flying within Bolivia: Bolivia#Get_around

Micros 17 and 18 travel the first ring, Micros 72 and 73 travel the second ring. To get to the center from Parque Urbano take Micro 69 or 100. You can pick up a map of all the bus routes from many "librerias" or bookstores downtown. There is also a great mobile app called Cruzero (both for iOS and Android) which contains route maps of all micros. It can also find you an optimal route if you just select the source and the destination on the city map. There is a website with the same content as well: http://cruzero.net/.

The fare for most micros is Bs. 2, but some of the ones that go further charge more, and the one that goes to the airport charges Bs. 6.

Shared taxis circulate the rings as well, they are called "trufis". Look for the signs on the roof. Faster than Micros and more comfortable because you can actually sit down. The fare for most trufis is Bs. 2.

Taxis in Santa Cruz are relatively expensive to other Bolivian cities. Make sure to settle on a price with a driver before heading to your destination. Fares are typically around Bs. 10-15, but if the driver senses you are a tourist they may charge you upwards of Bs. 20-40. Prices to the airport may be between Bs. 60-90.

Uber has been operating in Santa Cruz. Fares are very competitive with radio taxis or taxis hailed from the street with cars generally in good condition with air conditioning. Option to pay in cash also available. InDriver is the most common app used in Santa Cruz. You set your own price for a trip and wait until a driver accepts it. You can set a lower rate but may wait longer until someone accepts. Easy Taxi is another app-based service.

In Santa Cruz you can book some great excursions, like a trekking in Park Amboro, Noel Kempff, a river boat trip in the Amazon region, cultural excursions to the Jesuit Missions etc.

• Yvaga Guazu park (Out of the city, on the road to La Guardia. Catch a minibus (ask people) with red markings somewhere close to 2nd ring on the street leading to La Guardia. Ask the driver to stop at Yvaga Guazu park.). People say, vegetation in Yvaga Guazu resembles vegetation in big national parks like Madidi, Noel Kempf Mercado, etc. So, if you can't visit these parks, try to visit Yvaga Guazu. They have guides in Spanish. (updated Jan 2019)
• Lomas de Arena (Out of the city. You can get there by minibus 21 (goes each 5 min; ask the driver to stop at Lomas de Arena) and walk (7,5 km). For the right place to catch minibus, ask people at the crossroads on east corner of El Trompillo airport on the 2nd ring.). Quite impressive sand desert. You can walk over sand dunes, watch birds and ants (termites?). There is a marketplace close to the ticket office, you can buy water and food. From the ticket office to the desert is a 7.5 km road (single, you won't get lost) to the desert, takes 1.5 hr to walk but you can ask for a "mototaxi". Bs. 10. (updated Jan 2019)

• FEXPOCRUZ - Feria Exposicion de Santa Cruz / Exposition fairs
• Gobierno Municipal de Santa Cruz de la Sierra / City hall - general tourism information
• Gobierno Departamental de Santa Cruz / Local government - general tourism information available

• Equipetrol – this is the neighborhood where all the night life happens! Try any club or disco there.
• Avenida Busch is a good place to start a longer night. There are several Pubs there and you are still close to the center. If you want some classic Italian cappuccino, espresso, frappuccino or croissant there is the "Espresso del Oriente" Cafe-Pub on Bolivar Street 272 2½ blocks from the main Plaza. A during-the-week runner is the Irish pub at the main Plaza.
• Av. Monseñor Rivero is a popular boulevard if you want a coffee or a drink.

• Bar Lorca (On the corner of the main Plaza, next to the cathedral and Cafe 24). Very beautiful bar with a large courtyard and Moorish tiles. Has a stage and live music on most nights. Good selection of cocktails and also has a food menu. Free WiFi. 
• Café 24 (On SE corner of main plaza). As well as being a cafe/bistro during the day this turns into quite a nice little bar during the night. Good selection of drinks and there is frequently live music. 
• La Bodeguita (Calle Castelnau, off Monseñor Rivero). Based on Hemingway's favorite haunt in La Habana, this is a pleasant Cuban bar. Good place to drink mojitos and Cuba libres while listening to live Cuban music (varies depending on the night but they sometimes have Nueva Trova, as well as the ubiquitous Buena Vista Social Club Covers). Cheaper than most of the places actually on Monseñor Rivero 
• Duda Bar, Florida 228 (Between Spain St and 21 de Mayo St), ☏ +591 76025522. A very old beautiful house in downtown Santa Cruz. The decoration is eclectic, kitsch but very cute. The art collections is provided by local artists, it is always changing. “Cachivachero” also, but with taste. 

There are some hotels close to the bus terminal which is a bit further away from the center. A large Bolivia hotels and hostels directory is www.boliviahostels.com, they offer accommodation all over the country and you can make reservations for free.

• Cheaper alojamientos and hospedajes are located across the First Ring Road down smaller streets near Calle Mercado. Rooms here run around Bs. 40-60 for a single without a fan, or Bs. 60-90 for a single with a fan. The area can be a little rough after dark, mostly later at night. It would be recommendable to look for a place to stay here in the daylight.
• Alojamiento Viajero - basic rooms with hard beds for Bs. 20. Next to the Samaipata Taxi company.
• Hotel Turista (Formerly Hostel Ambar), calle Mercado 554 (5 blocks from main plaza), ☏ +591 3 3358959. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. Clean place in centro near the First Ring. Breakfast, good wifi. Cheaper than other offerings in centro, though maybe not quite as nice. single with fan Bs. 120. 
• Hotel Suecia - double rooms from Bs. 80
• Jodanga Backpackers Hostel. Pool, Jacuzzi, pool table, cable TV, kitchen, breakfast included, WiFi and computers - dorms from Bs. 70. Strictly enforced rules but fair, clean and well-run. 
• Residencial 7 de Mayo - double rooms Bs. 60
• Hotel Bibosi Junín 218, 1 block west of main square. Cheaper rooms are small and dark with only a fan, while more expensive rooms have air con and more light. Includes breakfast, cable TV, WiFi. Singles from $19.
• Hotel Amazonas Junín 214. It is located in Downtown, Some rooms have balconies, other windows, and for those who want to avoid noise, it has indoor rooms. Includes cable Tv, WiFi, it's a good simple choice. Singles from US$18.
• Residencial 7 de Mayo, next to the new Bus-Terminal (Ismael Montes/Interradial) - double rooms with shared bathrooms: Bs. 60

• Hotel Tropical Inn, Calle España 351, 3. Blocks northwest of main plaza. Tel: 334-6666. Probably the best value 3-star hotel in central Santa Cruz. Clean, large wood-paneled rooms with good beds and A/C. Some rooms have views. All have cable TV, WiFi on every floor. Friendly staff, breakfast on roof included. Singles for Bs. 200, Doubles for Bs. 240. 
• Hotel Copacabana Junín 217, 1 block west of the main plaza. Tel: 336-2770. Across the street from Amazonas and Bibosi. Friendly staff, clean and modern rooms with cable TV and WiFi throughout. Rooms are small, however, and the cheaper ones don't offer much privacy. Rooms with fans start at Bs. 144. for a single. Rooms with AirCon more. Simple continental breakfast included.
• Hotel Viru Viru - Junín 338, 2 blocks West of main plaza. Tel: 333-5298. A bit run-down, entire place needs sprucing up. Supposedly has WiFi. "Breakfast" included, offerings of which are typically gone by 8:30AM. Most rooms have cable TV and air con. The big selling point of this hotel, however, is the pool - the only hotel in town in this price range to have one. Nice on those stifling hot Santa Cruz days. Singles start at US$25.
• Hotel Lido, C/ 21 de Mayo esq. Cuellar #527, ☏ +591 3-3363555. Hotel Lido offers single room, double room, triple room, family room, matrimonial room and suite with air-conditioning, cable TV and internet access. Its facilities and services include restaurant, fitness room/gym, room service and airport transfer. 
• Senses Boutique Hotel Calle Rene Moreno esq Plaza 24 Septiembre. Claims to be Santa Cruz's only boutique hotel. Overlooks the main plaza and the rooftop bar/restaurant offers a direct view on to the cathedral. Rooftop pool. Decorated in a minimal style. Multi-lingual staff.

If you have a layover in Viru Viru, you can rent a room in the airport if you want to take a nap or if you get in late and have an early flight the next morning. It's called en-kma and is a small dorm style room with wi-fi, bed, mini-fridge, tv, and air conditioning. It's US$10/hour but if you stay longer, they will give you a discount. It's surprisingly very clean and more comfortable than expected.

United States (Consular Agency), Avenida Roque Aguilera #146 (3er Anillo), ☏ +591-2-216-8000, fax: +591-3-351-3478. 

• Samaipata – A small town in the mountains 2 hr away, old and beautiful. It has El Fuerte ruins and other attractions. Shared taxis leave from:

• Expresso Samaipata (Av. Omar Chavez Ortiz 1147 esquina Soliz de Olguin - Tel. 333-5067). From the terminal take the bus number 8 to get there. They leave with at least 4 passengers, Bs 30. Takes 3 hr.
• El Fuerte (2do Anillo Av. Grgota esq. Aruma - Tel. 359-8958). Bs. 25.

• Cotoca – A little town 40 min away from Santa Cruz, extremely old and filled with culture. Features an interesting sunday market. Also, in the treetops of the plaza you can find a handful of just sitting around and barely moving sloths, if you are able to spot them—if not, ask the locals. (Bring a zoom camera!)
• Buena Vista – A little colonial town 2.5-3 hr away town with tropical climate and filled with culture / beautiful. Enjoy the fish there served on a plate, which seems to be popular.
• San Javier – A little colonial Jesuit town 3.5 hr away with semi tropical climate and filled with culture baroque music and old cattle ranches.
• Concepción – Another little colonial Jesuit town 4.5 hr away with semi tropical climate and filled with culture (spectacular church) and baroque music.
• Sucre – Constitutional capital of Bolivia, white and beautiful city with relaxed atmosphere, has interesting surroundings. There are overnight buses (cama) from Terminal Bimodal (i.e. leave at 16:00 and cost 160 Bs.) on mainly bumpy roads. The ride at night may be cold, so prepare some warm clothes. Buses stop at Samaipata (though tourist info people in Terminal Bimodal may say otherwise).

• Asunción, Paraguay – There are buses, and the trip takes around 23 hr. Daily departures in the evening from the Nuevo Terminal. US$40-50 for a bus including food (bargain as much as you can). The travel agencies will not hesitate to lie to sell you a ticket and an old seat will become a "cama". Expect 15 to 18 police checks on the way, especially in Paraguay. The road through the Chaco is quite good, but the trip is very long.
• Corumbá, Brazil – Take the famous Death Train to the Brazilian border and from there head west into Brazil or south into Paraguay. See Get in (By train) for more details.